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SUCCESS! I installed the AliExpress ordered injectors, the bike started right up! I don't understand why the OEMs bench tested correct, twice, but failed to even light the bike at all. With that said, and having to remove and replace the injectors far more than any bike should ever have, it now runs great. I put just over 10 miles on it, at speeds of 100 mph. I still need to address the right fork seal as it allowed the fluid to leak out while sitting with the previous owner. The brakes were surprisingly not great. I already flushed the brake fluid, so maybe after some heat cycles they will grip better. Expecting a bike with only 10k on the clock, to still have the OEM pads, maybe they need replaced not due to use, but rather age. I'll determine this soon, easily enough replaced if need be. Having finally went for a run, I'll now remove and replace the rear-end, gear-box and motor oils. Plus, I have yet to install the shift extender cam. Having ridden it only 10 miles, I can already see it needs it! Thank you all for your advice, truly appreciated.

Plus one here...excellent news.

It also occurred to me to mention servicing the pins and pistons while you have the pads out. This has made a huge difference in braking feel and performance on my Sport... Clean, polish, and lightly grease (silicone grease only, NO petroleum around brakes [@gstallons's solid advice] ) the four pad pins. If any are badly ridged or deeply corroded, consider replacements. Withdraw fluid from the reservoir, clean the pistons with a spray cleaner for brakes like CRC Brākleen® (watch yer eyes!), rotate each piston with a proper brake piston tool, then press the pistons into the calipers. I've great results "chocking" the first pistons to move and further cleaning and pumping-out/ pressing-in the sluggish pistons until they all move relatively evenly. (Bear in mind the differential piston sizes on the front calipers are designed to move the leading pistons differently from the the trailing.) Flush with fresh fluid that has a confirmed low moisture content. Best to you, again, @LaGrasta, on getting this V11 Sport back on the road!

Congratulations, @LaGrasta! Your determination is admirable! Yes, fresh Brembo pads are a good idea. I know folks run various pads, but my original rotors suffered from some of my choices, so Brembo only for mySport. In fact, just last night I ordered fronts and rear from MGCycle.

what about: ”You expect me to talk?!?” ”Noo Mister Bond: I expect you to laser-engrave your yolks!”

Nope! It was not "Designated Parking" . . .

Flirted with incoming rain today. Got a little wet, but it was worth it . . .

Using the "air gap technique", I set mine at 100mm using 330ml in each leg. Yes, this can be done with the forks installed, but compressed. Springs out, IIRC. [moderator edit: Keeping this discussion here, rather than a new topic in "How to" . . .]

No second one, Bike has 30000 miles on it. Going to the beach for a week will work on the wiring next week May need a new regulator

12.63 after charging the battery? I connect an old headlamp, and just leave it on say 20min. I use and older 8amp analog charger who will pass 15V, so I have my m meter connected and stop the charging at 14.98V. Then another 6amp charger ment for AGM. A couple of times with that procedure seems to do good. Cheers Tom.

Hi everyone! Here is myne fully rebuild V11 Le Mans (champange) and repainted to auratium green. [docc restored image Feb 14, 2023]

While I haven't done this in a while, my #1 tip is disconnect all cables and make sure bottom is bottom. There was a tiny of tiny small burr on my cable mechanism and so one carb was never actually 100% closing. It tuned and ran great... with an occasional cough, but figured that was due to Stucci crossover, FBF pipes, intake, gas, PCIII map, etc etc... nope... that darn bur through everything off. Once I found it.. it was like a got a new bike. I cannot stress how infentecimally small this bur was. As I recall I only found it because the TPS dropped lower with the cable off and I only noticed it by accident.

Hi, Marco! So, first, screw in the left side idle stop screw until it bumps the linkage slightly open (you'll come back to that in the last step to set the final idle). Start the motor an use the twist grip to bring the rpm up to 2000-3000, then use the white knob to equalize the vacuum on the balancing tool. Some of these balancing tools have a "sensitivity" setting and some use restrictors to connect to the vacuum ports on the intakes. (It is connected to the intakes just ahead of the throttle bodies?)

To get a wire ring out, use a flat blade screwdriver to push the end DOWN out of the groove 1st. Pushing down is much easier than trying to pry up. Once down, slip a flat feeler gauge under the tip of the wire, then slide the end up using a hook or flat blade. Be ready when it pops out.

Top is rebound bottom is compression. Guzzi manuals are riddled with mistakes some of which are translation related and some because they obviously get the girl in the office fresh out of he Literature degree to create them. "Hey, isa justa words and pictures for the anglo's" Ciao