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The use of wet liners is interesting. I wonder why they went that way rather than nicasiling the block like the 'Prilla V4's and the like? Nice to see a return to replaceable main bearings too. Scisor gear for primary timing and single chain per side. I want to see more detail of the finger followers and how they are moved for valve lash adjustment.

A lot to like there, as long as it works.

Due to popular demand we have decided to add an extra weekend for all the South'n (US) Spine Raider's for 2023, so how about a spring Kentucky Spine Raid a little farther north around Dale Hollow Lake area? As for a date, seems we were thinking the weekend between Mothers' Day and Memorial day . . . (Seven months out, at this point). May 19-21, 2023 Consider the discussion started, thoughts?

gstallons reply was directed at the thread drift about our riding experiences and the potential for a "spring South'n Spine Raid " in southeast Kentucky next year. I have redirected that discussion to Joe's topic in "Meetings, Clubs and Events." I noticed the "shift return spring in your parts order. No use changing that unless also installing the Chuck-engineered SuperSpring and performing the Lucky Phil Shift Improvement:

The motor (parts pictures) https://www.motociclismo.es/fotos-motor-moto-guzzi-100-mandello_69296_113/11311843.html

Josh on his silver SPOrT1100. That was a great meet-up, BTW. We are waaaaaaay overdue for another!

On the brake maintenance : someone has a wooden block to move each piston . You want to do it right , extract each piston and clean the bore for each piston . I use brake assembly fluid on reassembly . After a lot of research , you want to use NEW (as in , removing the foil from the top of the bottle) DOT 4 fluid . Buy a small bottle so you can toss it after you are completely through . Flush , flush , flush all the DOT 3 from the system . after my little ride w/Docc & (I'm sorry I can't remember his name) one more , I found out about brake fluid boiling and using the front brakes first . Who was that anyway ?

In that case you chinless numpty how about releasing some parts diagrams or a service manual, (Being a completely new design they might even be able to get someone to write it without incorporating inaccurate info about previous models! That would be a first!) Im not the least interested in what it looks like or how it performs. All that is secondary to me. I want to see how it f*cking WORKS!

I suppose we should expect a bit of, er, derived solutions, as the bananas get peeled by the monkeys . . .

I've been there . I think ! Beautiful place .

When you get ready to assemble the fender , use a good amount of anti-sieze on the screws going into the rubber mounted nuts. Those things used to be on all GM vehicles pre-1973 ( that year had the internal regulator ) had the external voltage regulator . This was used to rubber mount it to cut down on shock , vibration , etc. These were a monster to remove . You destroyed them and hard mounted the regulator to whatever it was originally mounted to . You can't do this on the fender . It would look terrible .

Thanks, @Aldo. pm sent

ordered… I already have those grips on my V11, never seen them before. The taper is surprisingly perfect! They feel and fit incredible, so much so, I searched the internet to buy a set for another bike, but failed finding them. Then making this order this morning, I browse MG Cycle and to my surprise, there they are!

I have a full front silver fender from a V11 Sport is great condition (12k miles). If you're still looking. I am located in NW Florida but can ship in the US. Cheers, Aldo

https://www.motociclismo.it/prova-moto-guzzi-v100-mandello-s-2023-come-va-pregi-difetti-test-prezzo-81450

https://www.motociclismo.it/prova-moto-guzzi-v100-mandello-s-2023-come-va-pregi-difetti-test-prezzo-81450

It also occurred to me to mention servicing the pins and pistons while you have the pads out. This has made a huge difference in braking feel and performance on my Sport... Clean, polish, and lightly grease (silicone grease only, NO petroleum around brakes [@gstallons's solid advice] ) the four pad pins. If any are badly ridged or deeply corroded, consider replacements. Withdraw fluid from the reservoir, clean the pistons with a spray cleaner for brakes like CRC Brākleen® (watch yer eyes!), rotate each piston with a proper brake piston tool, then press the pistons into the calipers. I've great results "chocking" the first pistons to move and further cleaning and pumping-out/ pressing-in the sluggish pistons until they all move relatively evenly. (Bear in mind the differential piston sizes on the front calipers are designed to move the leading pistons differently from the the trailing.) Flush with fresh fluid that has a confirmed low moisture content. Best to you, again, @LaGrasta, on getting this V11 Sport back on the road!

Congratulations, @LaGrasta! Your determination is admirable! Yes, fresh Brembo pads are a good idea. I know folks run various pads, but my original rotors suffered from some of my choices, so Brembo only for mySport. In fact, just last night I ordered fronts and rear from MGCycle.

what about: ”You expect me to talk?!?” ”Noo Mister Bond: I expect you to laser-engrave your yolks!”

NK03XMU Currently living in a carcoon in my garage. But it’s going back on the road in the next few weeks. I’ve hardly used it during the 2 years that I’ve had it, but currently I’ve got 5 other Guzzi’s and I only put them on the road in the spring & summer. I just tax 2 at a time, SORN the rest and alternate them. It is a fabulous bike. I’ll probably be taking a V11 to the Guzzi stand at the Festival of 1000 Bikes in July. It’ll either be the Rosso Corsa or the silver V11 Sport. Rosso (and Nero) Corsa’s are really rare in the UK, but there is currently one on eBay asking price somewhat optimistically £8250! Ill find a way of PMing my email and no to you. I hope you have fully recovered from your back surgery and are enjoying biking again

Jet-Lube CB-2 grease should fit the bill on this. Available from Amazon, Gainger, and a few other places. http://www.jetlube.com/pages/CB-2.html Ken

Alex: First, no one has mounted a camera in the sump while accelerating hard, so what follows is an explanation of what we think is happening: When the motorcycle is at rest, the oil level is below the plate, at essentially the same level at both the front and rear of the sump. If you accelerate very briskly, the oil splashes toward the back of the sump. As it splashes back, the oil level gets higher at the rear and lower at the front. If it splashes back violently enough, the oil level toward the front of the sump gets low enough that the oil pickup is exposed, and the pump draws in air instead of oil. The sloppage plate serves as a cover over the oil, which we hope will keep the oil level from rising too high at the rear of the sump and thus too low at the front. The oil level is something like 10-20mm below the plate when the motorcycle is at rest. When you accelerate and the oil tries to splash back, it will rise at the rear of the sump to the level of the plate, at which time the plate will force most of it (some will leak through holes in the plate) to stay below the level of the plate. We hope that by constraining the oil thusly that enough oil will remain around the pickup to keep the oil pump from sucking air. I'll be back later with one data point on whether it worked or not. (My rod bearings are hoping for a positive result.) Rusty: Good on ya!