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Going thru everything, and some Luigi upgrades on the 99 Dynotech.de V11. Greenie at born. Will be busy for a while. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Here is an image of a couple rear drives, removed, with the right side, outboard "needle cage" and central race. This bearing only moves in an arc with the suspension movement (does not spin) So, good to rotate that inner race to a new position. If it is dry or rusty, clean thoroughly, polish, and grease liberally with waterproof grease (as for marine applications). There should be a large washer between the bearing and swingarm. Grease it liberally as well . . . What can happen to the inner race, if neglected (bottom row: far left = ruin't / far right=new) . . . [top row is the internal spacer on the axle between the wheel and rear drive.]

I recently returned from a moto tour in the Himalayas. 17 days on rented R.E. Himalayan Scram 411. The Scram (scrambler) is a small front wheel 19' vs. 21' version of the Himalayan with shorter seat and suspension. We did over 700 miles including 3 days of HARD off pavement riding. Overall, I was very impressed with the R.E. Not much power on tap, but enough to get the job done. I found the suspension to be very good considering what the roads threw at it, compliant and able to absorb a lot of bumps without losing feel. Zero reliabliltiy issues. Able to absorb minor crash damage, as everyone on the trip dropped at least once. Except for the stock crash bars, they fold up like a cheap suit. At least they also fold back into place like a cheap suit. Put some good skid plates and crash bars and a decent luggage system on and I'd seriously consider it for an ADV tourer.

Okay, one more that shows the washer that helps protect the needle cage if liberally greased. I emphasize this because mySport was missing this part. Perhaps from the factory, perhaps from some careless technician (not me this time!) . . .

Been away with work for a while so just got back to the Guzzi , i bench tested the injection relay and found it to be faulty so replaced with another new one and all ok with the voltage now, the relay was a brand new Bosch but not the first time i’ve fitted an electrical component out the box and it didn’t work. But the bike still won’t start. Going back to my original question from this post “ Is there a way to test the injectors or ECU signal? “ When the ignition is turned on there is 12V on the injection relay circuit for a second, the fuel pump turns on for a second then stops because its voltage feed is dropped to 3.5V by the ECU. So to test the voltage for the injectors there is 3.5V at the plug with ignition on and 12V intermittently when cranking. I took the injectors out and connected a 12V battery with a push button to test. Pushed the button for a second , nothing , pushed for two seconds, nothing , pushed for three seconds the solenoid clicks , again for three seconds it clicks then two seconds it clicks then one second it clicks then immediately , so on/off a few times and works fine. I filled the injector body with fuel put 3bar air pressure on it pushed the button and got a nice perfect spray pattern , did it a couple more times then repeated the same process with the other injector. Fitted the injectors , a couple of crank overs to prime then it fired up and went onto a nice steady idle, so works great now. So the fault was the injector solenoids had been sat for too long and they just needed a bit more than a quick flash of 12V to kick them of their seats again.

Yes. Old moisture laden fluid will affect the feel at the lever, and the slave bleeder is easy to get to now.

Tons easier to grease the u-joints on the drive shaft with the wheel off. I made several reference marks until I noticed the factory yellow lines...

From the 7:00 to 8:50, wow, Alaska is beautiful.

Yeah man. Just take it off- you can access the rear of the tranny too to give it a good clean (swingarm as well), and also refresh your clutch fluid whilst you’re there cos why not? 🙂

Halcyon Black

This "idea" has gathered some ground. Have yourself a "SpineRaid " wherever you are! It only takes two to make a murder of crows . . .

Nope! It was not "Designated Parking" . . .

Courtesy of @KINDOY2, I have the well nuts for the side application, (M5 GU93231605) and took these measurements (mm +/-). Body: diameter length Flange: diameter thickness 9.4 12.7 12.7 1.1 Material thickness (the two fender parts together): 5.0 Hole size: 9.5 The closest I found on the Mcmaster-Carr site is their 93495A503, which could be a little snug, but probably slip in with a little Shin Etsu grease. Ten count, $7.21US. FWIW, I ordered two through one of the US dealers and they have to come from Italy $5.20US. Each.

So sorry, I forgot I had asked this ! so rude not to reply, my lap top went down and just had a phone, thanks folks, I ordered new EBC discs.

Hmmmm , the pin 3 or pin 5 depending on which model bike you have is the tach signal wire . I will try to poke around my bike tomorrow to see what the output is at idle and 1500 RPM . I will hook up some contraption and see what I get .

I was seeking simplicity, light control actions, reliability and a wider dealer network than what Guzzi provides in my neck of the woods. If I were really more interested in going down the, "modern retro" rabbit hole I'd probably be saving up for a Janus, but the bang for the buck factor is definitely there for RE and I hope that other manufacturers take note...

Yeah, man, once you have the back of the bike lifted, it is helpful to "chock"/support the tire/wheel to take the weight off the axle. I use a brass drive (or wooden dowel) to drive the axle through the brake caliper carrier, then the wheel bearings leaving it to support the rear drive. With the caliper/carrier removed, the wheel can be wiggled off of the drive hub and rolled out beneath the fender/hugger. There is a spacer sleeve between the wheel and the rear drive to be mindful of. As @Tomchri said, Klüber Staburags on the drive hub teeth. Cleaning , rotating and liberally greasing the right, outboard needle cage will require removing the axle and lifting the rear drive away from the swing arm. This is an absolutely critical lubrication point to stop moisture/water entering and ruining the nose of the crown wheel:

For me.. who grew up riding singles.. it is a trip in the way back machine. There is just *something* about a long stroke single that gives me a grin. The clincher is that I'm *pretty sure* that I'll never have to work on it, unlike any of the 17 (!) Guzzis I've kept for future keepers. Well, ok.. clean and lube the chain every 4-500 miles or so, and adjust the (2) valves every 3000, although I'll bet they won't need it. OHC don't ya know.. I've been a fan of the small block for many years, now, and I already have one. I had thinned the herd down to the AeroLario, and Dorcia said, "what are you going to ride when you are looking for or having to make an unavailable Lario part?" I liked the way she was thinking. I have known that RE has had it going on for a few years, now..and everyone I know that has one likes it. The 350 Classic styling is spot on in harking back to the late 40s and early 50s. I went and had a look, and the manufacturing is top notch. Rode one and got that long stroke single grin. Oh, and I could have two for the price of a new Guzzi small block that might or might not keep up with the AeroLario on a twisty road. That is *not* the mission of the 350, although it handles quite well. It's mission is to be a back roads looking at the scenery relaxing afternoon ride. And.. going to the store, parts chasing, etc. that will keep the miles off the increasingly rare Lario. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79EuIgioLDc

also, and this might be in the "wheels off" checklist but, check the wheel bearings for any notchy-ness. Some in-wheel bearing spacers were short giving a heavy lateral load, causing the balls to notch the race. (hope that was understandable) I roll the wheel (off bike) with a finger in each bearing, elevate it off the floor so it spins, and can feel if the bearings are not rolling smoothly. If you feel any drag or unevenness, it's best to replace them.

The OP was emphatic why his concern was posted on this forum. That the Original Poster's purpose to advise forum members that his terms of payment have changed has been established, this thread's value has been fulfilled and, therefor, serves no further purpose to this forum, its members, or the OP. Locked thread, Moderator. A series of most recent posts has been set to "hide." If you feel this action is not in the best interest of our forum, drop down the menu from this post's ellipsis and select "Report" to bring this action to the attention of the Admin. [edit: I reported this action to the Admin myself. Do "report" this action/post if you feel it should be reviewed.] Find your P.Roper Authorized Slosh Trays here:

Map of the Dale Hollow Lake. https://www.plotaroute.com/route/280181

Oh err, I don’t even know what sort of wine Pino Grigio is. I’m a man of simple tastes, I just stick to English ale for my boozing . As for veal piccata, it’s pie n chips for me

My Greenie by the red telephone kiosk in Matlock today