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Been away with work for a while so just got back to the Guzzi , i bench tested the injection relay and found it to be faulty so replaced with another new one and all ok with the voltage now, the relay was a brand new Bosch but not the first time i’ve fitted an electrical component out the box and it didn’t work. But the bike still won’t start. Going back to my original question from this post “ Is there a way to test the injectors or ECU signal? “ When the ignition is turned on there is 12V on the injection relay circuit for a second, the fuel pump turns on for a second then stops because its voltage feed is dropped to 3.5V by the ECU. So to test the voltage for the injectors there is 3.5V at the plug with ignition on and 12V intermittently when cranking. I took the injectors out and connected a 12V battery with a push button to test. Pushed the button for a second , nothing , pushed for two seconds, nothing , pushed for three seconds the solenoid clicks , again for three seconds it clicks then two seconds it clicks then one second it clicks then immediately , so on/off a few times and works fine. I filled the injector body with fuel put 3bar air pressure on it pushed the button and got a nice perfect spray pattern , did it a couple more times then repeated the same process with the other injector. Fitted the injectors , a couple of crank overs to prime then it fired up and went onto a nice steady idle, so works great now. So the fault was the injector solenoids had been sat for too long and they just needed a bit more than a quick flash of 12V to kick them of their seats again.

I checked my Greenie just while ago . At pin 3 (yellow/black stripe) I got 50hz at idle . At 3k I measured around 150hz. HTH . Sorry for the delay .

Courtesy of @KINDOY2, I have the well nuts for the side application, (M5 GU93231605) and took these measurements (mm +/-). Body: diameter length Flange: diameter thickness 9.4 12.7 12.7 1.1 Material thickness (the two fender parts together): 5.0 Hole size: 9.5 The closest I found on the Mcmaster-Carr site is their 93495A503, which could be a little snug, but probably slip in with a little Shin Etsu grease. Ten count, $7.21US. FWIW, I ordered two through one of the US dealers and they have to come from Italy $5.20US. Each.

Going thru everything, and some Luigi upgrades on the 99 Dynotech.de V11. Greenie at born. Will be busy for a while. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

Thank you! Did you happen to test DC voltage?

Who knows ? as w/MG , there is one thing for certain , there's nothing for certain! Looking at my Red frame and Black frame bikes , the red frame has 40mm unpainted forks and the black frame has 40mm painted forks. I have a 43mm painted fork out in the shop and it has the different fork cap/adjuster setup from the others. These measurements are taken on the lower portion of the fork leg. Take pictures and measurements before you do anything. p.s. buy a parts manual so you can be sure , amused , entertained and thoroughly confused.

Check for voltage (ignition on/Run Switch on) to the Fuse 2 (from the front), then 5th (back) relay. I forget exactly which contacts, but if you probe all with a volt meter, you should find 12 volts. The connections to the fuel pump are under rubber boots and easily checked for voltage unless your pump is on top of the spine, under the tank.

Make sure the fork caps on your bike are identical to the one shown in the pics on the advertised forks.

Spring ride in the Upper Cumberland? 27 miles from home? I'm in!

The three negative ring terminals on the battery are: 1) the largest/ main ground to the back of the gearbox (be absolutely certain this connection to the gearbox is cleaned bare and sealed!), 2) the start/charge/lights harness, and 3) the (completely separate) Fuel/Ignition harness through fuses 1 & 2 --> Relays 4 & 5.

It is helpful to distinguish, when a V11 "won't start", whether it *clicks/whirs, cranks, or that there is > nothing < at all. Both @LaGrasta and @milo's V11 crank, but don't fire (if I understand correctly). A V11 with a faulty Run Switch or bad Clutch Switch/bullet connectors doesn't do anything on start attempt? Also, just because the battery has been removed for storage = nothing electrical can go wrong? I would venture that connections can continue to corrode and degrade while rodents can change your wiring without asking. Rude little shits.