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That sounds like good method, regardless. My last shot at greasing that %#@$& front UNI only served to waterproof the general area . . .

Positive Pneumatic bleeder is what I use. You can start off with zero in the reservoirs with these units I believe. Ciao

Another good one for the Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts!

The shaft on my '97 is different from the later 6- speed shafts, but I think the universals are the same; the zerks *are not* replaceable. I made the mistake of tossing one of mine with the old joint, to discover that they are a very low-profile zerk and it took me literally weeks and about 6 bags of ebay metric zerks to find one that fit in the joint and cleared everything in use. You can't buy the joint separately from MG, and certainly you can't buy just the zerk from them. A conscientious cleaning on the bench is your only real option if you can't get it working in situ.

I just received this one in the mail today, and though it's not been installed and tested I found it by cross-reference and it appears identical to the original MG part; it came from CARS245.com. Manufactured by Meat & Doria, which is cast in to the plastic of the sensor itself. It was shipped from Latvia and came in the door for $26.47. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193389988386 Chased it back to M&D; https://cars245.com/en/item/meat-doria-87074-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/ Cars245.com also carries the OEM Marelli unit. https://cars245.com/en/catalog/?q=87074 A lot of Italian businesses do not ship to the US. I did not discover whether cars245.com does or not; the item I bought on ebay was shipped from Latvia, but came as brand new in the M&D box. If you search '87074' in ignition systems & components within eBay, there are many sources, all in Europe.

Grease gun is new with new tube of Wurth Sig 3000. I will check for ball movement in zerk fitting.

And now for something completely different...I did my first V11 oil change...nice ritual doing the filter. Also drained all the fuel and put in a couple gallons non E. Who knew how long those fluids have been sitting in there with the bike last registered in 2015. Google is my friend. With no manuals yet I questioned how to check oil level on this bike with no center stand. Many old posts from this site popped up. Got it dialed in because of all the info here. Can't wait to tackle the driveline zerks. 😳

I've never seen a "torque value" for this fine threaded "man hole" filter access cover. Yet, with the O-rig lubricated, it is best to tighten it firmly with a proper tool. I prefer a 10" breaker bar in 3/8" drive through the correct 27mm hex drive. This is an important distinction that should be thoroughly understood regarding the V11's oil filter contained within the sump, out of sight. Somewhere in the lore of installing external canister oil filters, the method was to lubricate the filter's gasket with motor oil and install "hand tight" or "finger tight." This is a DISASTEROUSLY BAD IDEA for the V11 ! V11 have been known to let their oil filter come loose. There have been theories, and contributors, to this potentially catastrophic failure: 1) Early, or a batch of, factory UFI filter gaskets were faulty or inadequate. 2) The "Hand Tight" method is not for this application. Based upon a respectable evaluation by V11LM member Ryland3210, I adopted the "one and one eighth (1 1/8) turns past first gasket contact" to good effect. (I have only had one filter stuck to the point of removing the sump and destroying the filter to remove it. ) Others have resorted to installing a hose clamp on the filter as a stop to prevent the filter from backing off. Beware a V11 unfamiliar to you that may have this modification. The oil filter cannot be removed through the access cover, but only with the sump removed.

...it will.

It never ceases to amaze me how often my grease gun ends up empty. And since it has decent heft, it doesn't FEEL empty. So I tend to assume something else is wrong when it turns out I just need a new tube of grease. That said, I have seen a zerk seize so that it won't allow grease in. As others have said, always clean a zerk before trying to pump grease into it. And in some cases you might need to push on the little ball in the middle to get it to pop in. If it won't pop in, it won't allow grease in and may need to be replaced.

Hey, @Scud, @Tom in Virginia is asking if springs are still available?

Depending on the battery, 12.75 isn't perfect. For the factory battery, for example, at least 12.8 and change would be full charge. Then there is load, having a full charge voltage wise doesn't mean there is enough amperage behind that voltage. Have you measured voltage at the battery while trying to start? A simple test is to hook up a second source of voltage, either a second battery or a battery charger, and see if the problem goes away. It is usually from the system sensing low voltage during the start attempt, and low voltage can either be from a lack of voltage on the positive side or a bad ground. If the extra 12 volt power stops the issue, it is likely a lack of 12 volt power and the battery is to blame. If the problem is still there with the additional 12 volt power the problem is likely that you have a wiring issue. You should remember that what can happen is if during a start attempt the ECU senses voltage below its threshold it will abort the start attempt. The ECU measures battery voltage through a fairly long and small wire, so there is some voltage drop at the ECU. You can see that by setting the dash to display voltage and comparing that reading to measuring the voltage directly at the battery with a meter. Typically the meter will read higher than the dash. Also to consider is measuring voltage always requires a ground to make an accurate measurement of voltage. A weak or poor ground will typically mean a lower voltage measurement then what it really is. That you both have the same bypass makes me suspect perhaps the bypass is not done right, as with a proper bypass it separates the starters draw from the battery vs the ECUs measurement of battery voltage. That dramatically reduces the voltage drop the ECU sees when you try to start the bike. From the factory the ECU measures battery voltage on the same circuit that supplies the starter as I recall (it has been a while).

The krinkle black looks real good, That could be what happened. Anyway the CA. CHP let me engrave my own numbers and it is now registered. Thank's

Bones did Batteries for a career so to be sure they are perfect. 12.75

It seems there is minimal difference (for our V11 purposes) between a V-rated (149mph/240km/h) rating versus a Z-rated (149+mph/240+km/h) tire. Even an H-rated tire is probably fine (130mph/210km/h) unless you intend to ride flat-out across The Salisbury Plain for hours. FWIW, I've never seen mySport over 135mph. For the record, I didn't say I rode it with the Veglia pegged, just "never over" . . .

great to see the 'human being' talent up front and the studio "adds" pushed off the stage. nice drum kit too.

I know this may sound a little off but................... How old are the batteries? Over the years I have found that a new battery solves a lot of issues. Ciao

I seem to recall expert advice that the fully engaged lever position opens the valve in the master cylinder and allows the air to escape overnight. I have actually seen this (surprisingly) work on my buddy's 1200Sport. Otherwise, I'm out of my paygrade here

I believe they are the same relays but we have swapped a few around from know working relay spots. And we tested one of them and saw it working. Is there more than one relay in control of the starter button? if I google there are scads of threads with similar problems but I have not found the answer. Most guesses lead to bad ground, safety switches and the interuptus mod. None of the threads I saw had answer to our specific problem. we will check the SS, neutral and clutch switches next.

Mine has 94,000 miles, Bones has 13,000 on his.

14 years later, I just gave this a re-read! I remembered most, but all the little details covered will help this time around! Maybe it will help someone else.

LaGrasta, I see you have a black frame 2003. They were more stable from the factory!

Hand-tight.

Haha, well our US State Governments will never be the most reliable source of critical information of some 20+ year old Italian motorcycle. As long as you know what to order parts for, the "2004" thing is just something to disclose if you ever sell her on. Seems you are making some excellent progress on your V11 journey!

If you have the 4.5" wide rear wheel I would recommend the 160/60 rear tire. It will fit the narrower wheel better. The wider tire is a bit pinched on that size wheel. That leads to a poor profile shape and a less than optimal contact patch. Later V11's have a 5.5" wide rear wheel and it fits the wider tire fine. Still not my favorite, but it is what it is.

Lots of us with the earlier Sport's 4.5" rim have been running 160/60-17. Currently, I have a Bridgestone T32.

[ Haha, well: successful "strike my last sentence" edit! I'm giving myself a raise! ]

Adjusted the shifter pedal one more time and took a ride. 45F. Shifted really well, stiffer and crisper.

Hard to believe those are only 750cc. They look more like 750cc each . . .

Thanks guys - I got it all torqued down (31 foot-pounds or 42 newton-metres), new head and rocker cover gaskets, O-rings, washers. Valves at .008" Intake and .010" Exhaust. I'm pretty sure I caused the oil leak shortly after I got the bike. It wasn't leaking at the time, but I decided to re-torque the heads during a valve check - and that's when it started leaking. At that time, I must have de-stressed one of the O-rings (4 per side around studs - between head and rocker support) just enough to cause a leak. I swear, the hardest part is getting the throttle body boots back on. But I figured out something - if you start with the RH side it's much easier. That's because the RH cylinder is further forward. With the RH boot on, the angle of the LH boot is close to the intake port. If you put the LH on first, the angle is way off and it's damn near impossible to get the RH boot on. ...and another question... since I put in new head gaskets, do I need to re-torque the heads after a heat/cool cycle or a break-in period? I didn't see anything in the manual about it.

The gasket is about the same size at the face of the pipe that it's supposed to seal - it doesn't protrude. It's fairly soft - I think it's supposed to compress a lot to make a tight seal.

thats my Polish friend ;-) Kat unfortunatly she parked that bike under a car...