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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/09/2022 in all areas
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On mine it's only possible to grease the front joint in place when a beer bet is involved. It's far more economical to remove the wheel and separate the shaft, which also facilitates better spline lube. However, a needle fitting couldn't be worse to access in place, and quite easy with the wheel out. The benefit aside from assured clearance, may be in the balance if one believes it's balanced adequately at all. I have always had some concern about throwing a zerk at 10k rpms. The pinholes are tighter and lighter. It hasn't mattered so far, but should I need to replace a zerk that's certainly what I'll use.2 points
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My wife's V11 still has one, has had it for years and many miles. No issues. Some people seem to be able to make a Power Commander work, others can't. But nowadays there are better ways to play with the tuning of a V11. Back then when we bought it there weren't.2 points
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Oh and FWIW, I couldn't source a sensor shim; I was at 0.00". I found that a rocker arm steel shim is a perfect fit on the sensor body and fits between the screws, giving a nice 0.010" space.2 points
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Here is @Pressureangle's ebay link he posted for the special Zerks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pieces-Metric-Grease-Fitting-M8-M8X1-M8X1-0-Zerk-Nipple-45-Degree-Deg-L-CA/201786925134?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 And his thread/post on the U-joints and Zerks:2 points
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@GuzziMoto that seems like a fantastic option. It many even provide an easier way to lube.1 point
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I have a PC on my 2010 V7, added by the PO. It's given me no problems.1 point
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Not sure if they come in the right size, but another option might be a needle zerk fitting. They need a different grease gun nozzle, but are inherently low profile. https://www.amazon.com/Low-Profile-Grease-Zerks-5-Piece/dp/B07B8WM3QZ I don't do Amazon, but this link is primarily so others will understand what I am talking about. Again, I don't know if they come in the required size, but if they do a needle fitting could actually work better in this application.1 point
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The engine is the least of your worries. There are plenty of 'Weak Points' in a V11 but the majority of them are the result of ignorance and abuse. 40K on a 2V pushrod Guzzi engine, if it has been serviced and tuned regularly and correctly, is nothing. If, on the other hand, it has been *Worked*, *Hotted up* or been *Improved* by an idiot? All bets are off. If the advert contains words like 'K&N air filter', 'Power Commander', 'Dyno-Tune' or 'Performance'. Especially in So Cal? I'd tread carefully and carry a very big stick........1 point
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Pretty amazing , the audio that can be recorded on a front porch . . .1 point
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The shaft on my '97 is different from the later 6- speed shafts, but I think the universals are the same; the zerks *are not* replaceable. I made the mistake of tossing one of mine with the old joint, to discover that they are a very low-profile zerk and it took me literally weeks and about 6 bags of ebay metric zerks to find one that fit in the joint and cleared everything in use. You can't buy the joint separately from MG, and certainly you can't buy just the zerk from them. A conscientious cleaning on the bench is your only real option if you can't get it working in situ.1 point
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I just received this one in the mail today, and though it's not been installed and tested I found it by cross-reference and it appears identical to the original MG part; it came from CARS245.com. Manufactured by Meat & Doria, which is cast in to the plastic of the sensor itself. It was shipped from Latvia and came in the door for $26.47. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193389988386 Chased it back to M&D; https://cars245.com/en/item/meat-doria-87074-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/ Cars245.com also carries the OEM Marelli unit. https://cars245.com/en/catalog/?q=87074 A lot of Italian businesses do not ship to the US. I did not discover whether cars245.com does or not; the item I bought on ebay was shipped from Latvia, but came as brand new in the M&D box. If you search '87074' in ignition systems & components within eBay, there are many sources, all in Europe.1 point
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That sounds like good method, regardless. My last shot at greasing that %#@$& front UNI only served to waterproof the general area . . .1 point
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Grease gun is new with new tube of Wurth Sig 3000. I will check for ball movement in zerk fitting.1 point
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It never ceases to amaze me how often my grease gun ends up empty. And since it has decent heft, it doesn't FEEL empty. So I tend to assume something else is wrong when it turns out I just need a new tube of grease. That said, I have seen a zerk seize so that it won't allow grease in. As others have said, always clean a zerk before trying to pump grease into it. And in some cases you might need to push on the little ball in the middle to get it to pop in. If it won't pop in, it won't allow grease in and may need to be replaced.1 point
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Depending on the battery, 12.75 isn't perfect. For the factory battery, for example, at least 12.8 and change would be full charge. Then there is load, having a full charge voltage wise doesn't mean there is enough amperage behind that voltage. Have you measured voltage at the battery while trying to start? A simple test is to hook up a second source of voltage, either a second battery or a battery charger, and see if the problem goes away. It is usually from the system sensing low voltage during the start attempt, and low voltage can either be from a lack of voltage on the positive side or a bad ground. If the extra 12 volt power stops the issue, it is likely a lack of 12 volt power and the battery is to blame. If the problem is still there with the additional 12 volt power the problem is likely that you have a wiring issue. You should remember that what can happen is if during a start attempt the ECU senses voltage below its threshold it will abort the start attempt. The ECU measures battery voltage through a fairly long and small wire, so there is some voltage drop at the ECU. You can see that by setting the dash to display voltage and comparing that reading to measuring the voltage directly at the battery with a meter. Typically the meter will read higher than the dash. Also to consider is measuring voltage always requires a ground to make an accurate measurement of voltage. A weak or poor ground will typically mean a lower voltage measurement then what it really is. That you both have the same bypass makes me suspect perhaps the bypass is not done right, as with a proper bypass it separates the starters draw from the battery vs the ECUs measurement of battery voltage. That dramatically reduces the voltage drop the ECU sees when you try to start the bike. From the factory the ECU measures battery voltage on the same circuit that supplies the starter as I recall (it has been a while).1 point
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Thanks for asking, gstallons, and the reply, CagivaRider. I learned the hard way that wiring should be zip-tied loosely to anchor points lest this very thing occur. A tightly tied wiring point becomes a heat sink and the metals work-harden from the focus of vibration. A point that should be added the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist . . . [edit: There, done. Thanks for pointing this out, @CagivaRider!] ">Be certain the wiring lead from the Phase sensor is not "Zip-tied" tightly to the frame leading to a wiring break and sensor failure. Repeat the process of locating and releasing any and all wiring that is anchored tightly to hard points. Re-tie loosely to avoid wiring failures."1 point
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I just bought my V-11 universal joints from Technomec in Montreal. They even opened a PayPal account to ease the USD-to-Cnd exchange rate. Two u-joints and postage - Montreal to Seattle - was $59.42 USD.1 point
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Looks like I’ll have the U-joints next week. That’s just two weeks from when the driveshaft failed. Pretty great for fairly rare Italian parts coming from another country! Thanks again to Pressureangle for doing the sourcing. With two driveshafts at hand, I am hoping to do some deeper inspection of the existing U-joints and try to asses if the front cross can be flipped to face the Zerk forward and modify the scattershield collar for greasing access without drama or developing a New Zealander's (dangerous ) vocabulary.1 point
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Too, cool. Thanks, Pressureangle! So, even the undersized Zerk cannot be faced forward on the front U-joint cross? (That would be such a great access solution with minimal modification of the scattershield collar!) Four business days and I have an offer to ship two Della Concordia CR15 U-joints, without prepayment, from the Canadian supplier, Technomec. $66.70 US including all freight, taxes, and duties. I think this is an excellent offer. Thanks, again, Pressureangle!1 point
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LOL forgot to finish this tale. The new DC u-joints fit perfectly in the yokes- they are slightly less tight than the originals, which were a tough move. The included grease zerks are so large that they hit the yokes; I had to find smaller zerks on ebay... https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pieces-Metric-Grease-Fitting-M8-M8X1-M8X1-0-Zerk-Nipple-45-Degree-Deg-L-CA/201786925134?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 You'd have thought I'd have noticed that and kept the stock one, right? Don't fail to keep it. I installed the u-joint, after careful consideration, with the zerk facing forward, hoping to ease access. Of course, I didn't consider the zerk-to-shaft clearance which is negative, ghost rider. Fortunately also, the new joints have a slightly different cross structure than the originals, allowing fairly simple removal and repositioning the zerk back to the rear. At the end of the day, everything went back together exactly as Mother Goose intended. Trying to out-engineer Italian engineers fails if you don't have any idea why they did what they did. So, I merely pulled a very long, expensive, intensive regular maintenance on the shaft and drive. I used Mobil Xtreme Grease on the joints, replacing the stock lightweight stuff in the caps before intallation and Jet-Lube open gear lube on the splines. All that, and discovering and correcting the yokes being un-tight on the splines of both ends has made everything much smoother and with noticeably less driveline lash. Now, if I can get out on the darn thing.1 point
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I spoke, by phone, with this supplier today. The gentleman was very courteous. They generally do not supply customers directly. So, waiting for a quote, by email, in Canadian dollars which I send by mail. The product then sent to me , by mail. And here I was perfectly willing to show up alone, with cash (Canadian dollars, even!), no Mounties . . .1 point
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With a used shaft coming for the Sport's lately expired unit, it seems prudent to give it fresh U-joints. The Della Concordia factory in Italy is, of course, closed until late August. I believe I found a good email address for Technomec in Montreal. I'm hoping to hear from them in the morning and learn what it takes to get goods from our provincial neighbors these days . . . > Come alone. Bring cash. No cops.0 points