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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/2022 in all areas

  1. I do have one that fits the description. There was crinkly paint on the engine/trans and it has the padded tank.
    5 points
  2. My wife's V11 still has one, has had it for years and many miles. No issues. Some people seem to be able to make a Power Commander work, others can't. But nowadays there are better ways to play with the tuning of a V11. Back then when we bought it there weren't.
    3 points
  3. Oh and FWIW, I couldn't source a sensor shim; I was at 0.00". I found that a rocker arm steel shim is a perfect fit on the sensor body and fits between the screws, giving a nice 0.010" space.
    3 points
  4. Took my girlfriend to hear Peter Tosh (from Bob Marley) when he came to town many moons ago on his tour featuring his version of johnny b goode. She was a fine young catholic girl, easily surprised when all the lights went out, by design, to just highlight the single spark/red glow on the stage, and how the crowd went wild…
    2 points
  5. "Help us [John Hiatt]. You're our only hope."
    2 points
  6. Good-‘ol-boy Never give in to conformity… (“We do not destroy the heretic because he resists us. . . We convert him, we capture his inner mind, we reshape him.” - George Orwell) Attaboy
    2 points
  7. https://motociclo.com.au/product/tarozzi-clip-ons-high-rise-78/ I can already tell I need to sit up a bit more, especially with a passenger on-board. After some research, these seem like an alternative, mounted under the top triple tree, unlike the stock bars, atop. I realize this would diminish the 2.75" lift. I'll have to measure this distance, to see just how much is lost. and then there is the issue with the lines…
    1 point
  8. So the 'Sport has a square glass headlamp, H4 and apparently singular to the North American 'Sport. Mine was getting hazy with age, so while the bike was apart I took the opportunity to investigate. I was surprised to find the lens to be glass not plastic, so I carefully applied some chemicals, starting with water. To make the long story short, I got a little out of hand, and having a spare I decided to try a capful of Ospho. Not much, and there was still drops of water from previous rinsing. It didn't clear it, but it seemed better and I dried it in the sun and breeze (was 80ºF here lol). Today I installed it and put the body on, and it's clearly clearer. Now I'm a bit remiss that I wasn't braver with the quantity and time stewing with the Ospho. I don't know what the haze is, but it didn't respond to water, dishsoap, electronics cleaner, or carburetor cleaner. I was afraid to use much aggressive hydrocarbon lest I ruin the plastic bits in the bulb housing, but whatever it is appears to be sensitive to acids. Meh. So if anyone else is wont to try such an adventure, it's good winter squawk.
    1 point
  9. Now I wonder if the ol' balsamic vinegar/salt solution would have done it.
    1 point
  10. Relays, G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12, $1.89 AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800991782345.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.84.6af31802c205tR&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US I currently am using these on my 2003
    1 point
  11. The engine is the least of your worries. There are plenty of 'Weak Points' in a V11 but the majority of them are the result of ignorance and abuse. 40K on a 2V pushrod Guzzi engine, if it has been serviced and tuned regularly and correctly, is nothing. If, on the other hand, it has been *Worked*, *Hotted up* or been *Improved* by an idiot? All bets are off. If the advert contains words like 'K&N air filter', 'Power Commander', 'Dyno-Tune' or 'Performance'. Especially in So Cal? I'd tread carefully and carry a very big stick........
    1 point
  12. Another good one for the Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts!
    1 point
  13. Later V11 motors were produced with slightly higher compression and a modified connecting rod that directs an oil spray to cool the underside of the piston, IIRC. When this was introduced and whether the KS designation represents this change is yet to be clarified.
    1 point
  14. I wish these were available/affordable, https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5659
    1 point
  15. Yes, got that front to back.
    1 point
  16. So far, we can say that the "Carryover Sport" was built from late 2001 (likely the earliest of the LongFrame before the first V11 Lemans) through 2003 (perhaps all through 2003?) in the 2002 V11 configuration. 1) If you have this "Carryover" configuration, regardless of the year in the VIN, order parts for a 2002 V11. 2) Still looking for evidence of a 2003 (VIN) V11 Sport in the later (last) V11 configuration seen as 2004 features. Anyone?
    1 point
  17. OEM part: U-joint for drive shaft: (not available from Moto Guzzi separate from the drive shaft.) Replacement part: "22x50,20 Della Concordia CR 748 universal joint [in Europe?]. No such animal exists in the USA" In North America: "CR748S is with no nipples. It’s a lifetime lubrification. CR15 is with a 45% angle nipple in the middle of the universal joint." SOURCE: Technomec Inc. 9380 J.J. Gagnier Montereal, Canada, Quebec H1G 4T5 Tel : 514-381-2017 [Reference thread by Pressureangle/ May 27 2018: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20425]
    1 point
  18. OEM Part Name: Spark Plug Wire Moto Guzzi Part Number: Spark Plug Wire-GU01718330, Spark Plug Cap-GU01717430 Replacement Part Brand or Source: NGK Part Number: CR6 Virtually the same wire and plug, the NGK has outer sleeve covering plug wire to protect from the elements/heat. The sleeve is the same red color as plug wire and could be removed. Other Comments: I removed the end connector from the original wire (end that plugs into the coil) and installed it on the new NGK wire since the NGK package does not provide one. It does come with the Spark Plug Cap already installed. They only come one to a pack, so naturally you would require two if you were to replace both stock wires.
    1 point
  19. OEM Part Name: Hydraulic Bleeders - for clutch slave and brake calipers Moto Guzzi Part Number: Replacement Part Brand or Source: SpeedBleeder Part number or other identifier: Clutch and Rear Brake - SB1010S M10x1.0 Front Brake Calipers - SB8125 M8x1.25 Differences from OEM (if any): these are one-way valves that make bleeding very speedy (a well-named product). The OEM bleeder for the clutch looks a little different than one for the rear brake, but the same replacement part fits both applications. Thanks to Craig for doing the research on these. I've had them for a while, but just installed all 4 today. OEM clutch bleeder (left) has flat bottom. SpeedBleeder (right) has conical bottom.
    1 point
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