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The roach clips are used to mellow you out after a long period of frustration..

Figured I'd give you the good news first . . .

Just another data point for future thread readers; I re-installed my old, highly suspect cam sensor- I'd already confirmed intermittent switching with a DMM. But to be sure after thoroughly inspecting the ignition wiring/coils/wires/caps/plugs with new parts where necessary, I returned the old sensor to service. The bike ran very smoothly and cleanly but for a stumble about 4200 rpm. I thought perhaps it was due to overfuelling by the newly restored injectors but the following day on the third lap around the block to check fuel changes (to no effect I might add) it went down on one cylinder and weakly at that. I drifted into the gas station for a minute (left my wallet home so no gas) and after a couple minutes cooling drove back finely to the house, about 1.5 miles away. This was precisely the same symptoms I experienced when I first bought the bike- the sensor failed with heat. The before/after test showed the stumble at 4200 even in neutral, and completely vanished with the new sensor installed. Tomorrow I'll re-install the fairing and get a hot test.

The tank should be at atmosphere. The in-line valve, or the vent tube routing is usually the source of the blockage.

I try to remember to take the sticker off my WIX, but have often forgotten. At 5,000 miles, it had never been a problem. Not sure what might happen with another brand or going longer. Far more important to make sure the old filter gasket comes out with the old filter!

Even though I've read lots about tank suck here,I only ever experienced it recently when I took my V11 for it's 1st extended hard test run. The bike ran great,but when I went to refuel,took great effort to open the tank lid and the tank sides shook very harshly as the vacuum let go. Was lucky the paint didn't crack. The bike ran like crap for the 10 miles home and would barely idle. I cured it by re plumbing the tank vent line from the existing T connector/lines to the vacuum ports on the TBs to a single line open to the atmosphere;then capped off the vacuum ports at the TBs. I also cleaned out the 2 vent holes by the tank lid opening,iirc located at 6 & 7 0'clock. I used a small plain metal wire I had handy, but the next time I change guitar strings, I'll be keeping an old wound G string for the tool box, I think it would work perfect for opening/clearing those vents. The bike has run like a top since. fwiw

All inductive sensors I've known have been pretty much the same, called out at .025" + or - .010". The stop working near .050". Mine actually had witness marks on the tip where it actually made contact with the tone ring, but it went 20k miles like that over a few years so I'm not blaming that- however, I was sure to clearance the replacement properly. Heavy truck and many automotive ABS sensors are mounted in a simple metal bracket with a tight slip fit, and are set for clearance by pressing them to zero against the tone ring. They find their home when bearing clearance pushes them back just a bit. (This also causes many ABS fault lights when bearings are loose or enough dirt collects to push them back too far)

Fading memory says the spec for sensor clearance is .030".. but it may just be a false memory. Ok ok.. I went out and looked it up. Between .6 and 1.2mm.

Thanks Docc, I figured I would not find the answer. As to the filter itself, I used "hand tight then 3/4 of a turn". Probably about the same as gasket touch then 1 & 1/8th. The filter cover I did the same as what you suggest, or close to. With a 1/2 inch breaker bar and proper tool just tight enough to ensure I wasn't going overboard. I am a fitter turner by trade so have a fairly good feel for things of mechanical "tightness". Managed a 400km ride on Saturday, checking underneath for any drips and seems to be all ok.

Zerk story . 2 black frames quite doable. 2001 red frame, wheel of and very helpful with another pair of hands working the grease gun. Messy and lots of cleaning after the right sound. 1999 red frame, hmm, why shoud this one be worse ? Dropped swing arm to the lowest possible, after taking rear drive of and drive shaft apart. U-joint bolts out (new T bolts was to be installed anyway) to get the drive shaft backwards. And yes, the right sound. Woud have been quicker taking the s arm of. Not that long since the s arm had been powdercoated, so figured bearings were good. Figure out. Cheers Tom.

I use this tip with the wheel off and swingarm dangling. Done it a few times. Have to attack it straight on, the point will open the zerk and settle in pretty well with consistent pressure to take grease. Some does escape around the edges but mostly goes in.

Lagrasta, When I change the tire I'll be doing everything I can on the rear before installing wheel again. I'll get grease in there one way or another...I hope!

I jacked the bike up, dropping, and raising the rear wheel. I even tried removing the shroud, nope. I GIVE UP. I'll wait until my near new tire wears out, then I'll remove the shaft for proper maintenance. Appreciate your post @docc, this will be a great reference should I plan to swap out the joints at that time as well. Until then, 2 out of 3 ain't bad.

2001 Moto Guzzi Rosso Mandello V11 Sport #49. 16k miles. Has Mistral crossover and Exan (Italian) carbon exhaust with removable baffle that sounds amazing. Power commander. Also has a Penske rear shock. Otherwise it is well maintained and original. Starts and runs great and has good Michelin Pilot Power 4 tires. Has a few small paint marks in tank from normal use. Only selling as I have wrist issues and can no longer sit on it for as long as I would like. I have original literature, letter of authenticity, parts manual, and workshop manual for the bike. Video of it running. https://youtu.be/2FSHFHEjas4 Bike is located in Mazomanie, WI. More than happy to work with shippers if needed. I have shipped and received bikes in the past. $6200 obo

IDK what brand filter anyone uses , but the Wix is about as good as you can get .

I'm the ideal weight for stock springs. With no gear, I'm 170. I should be able to set the sag, then adjust for ride preference.

Saw a You Tube video on changing oil filter. Had me scratching my head. They used a Bosch filter with an applied sticker on the can's painted exterior finish. The filter I got from MG cycle looked like it had a plain zinc coated exterior, which seems very suitable for being bathed in oil. Also they lubed both sides of the filter gasket, which goes against what I read here. Dont believe everything on YT.

Once you have had your head out of the sand , you can't put it back . Tteat it w/TLC .

This pricked my ears! Is there a checklist of ‘Weak Points’ already? I’d run a ruler over mine…

Whoa Nellie! After reading that 2006 post I think I'm going back to just working on Briggs and Strattons.

I thought those were all the same job!

Yeah, wouldn't worry about the mileage for the motor. Mine has 69000kms and runs amazingly and uses no oil. Gearbox is real nice. The clutch is the thing I am dreading. It's quite loud but who knows how long it should last. It is the job I know I will need to do one day. Overall the bike is easy to maintain and relatively simple maintenance. My three PIA jobs would be bleeding the clutch due to slave location, greasing the front nipple on the drive shaft and the future clutch job.......

I hear ya brother . Faster than the speed of sound . Not faster than the music !

You got 'at right . Joe Eish knocked me out of a head gasket job on my 87 a long time ago . I still have the head gasket somewhere in this zip code. Removed the rocker arm assy. , installed the o-ring , reassembled and no-more-problem !

That O-ring under the head bolt is an often overlooked leak source that makes it look like it is leaking from the head gasket.

The red paint is thicker. That decreases the clearance. Also, the front zerk has a special antigravity coating that repels the grease gun.

Top. Gear. (Notice how the Neutral Light stays just out of view . . .)

@activpop I just tried yesterday, again, on my black frame. Two Zerks are doable, but there is no practical way for the third. Don't even try unless you remove the rear wheel. Once removed, you can do additional shaft maintenance.

Hey ScuRoo, on MG Rider! Art

And now for something completely different...I did my first V11 oil change...nice ritual doing the filter. Also drained all the fuel and put in a couple gallons non E. Who knew how long those fluids have been sitting in there with the bike last registered in 2015. Google is my friend. With no manuals yet I questioned how to check oil level on this bike with no center stand. Many old posts from this site popped up. Got it dialed in because of all the info here. Can't wait to tackle the driveline zerks. 😳

Here she is, Chuck:

Yes, fully closed would be fully screwed in which would be full clockwise. Don't over close it.

Thanks I'll read those articules, owners manual states factory settings for rear i.e 20 snaps from closed , so is closed fully clockwise?