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title had me a little bit worried at what I might not be able to unsee ... bit since it was in tech topics and not in idle banter thought I'd give it a go

*The Bugatti will go over 300mph, but in the 1/4....

I see, a typing error. My bad. Sorry. Typing error fixed. Thanks.

? ! !

I got my foxes fixes at Joel Levine. Docc, has a complete set-up from Speed Hut that's a near replica of the stock gauges with Guzzi eagles and everything. Just search here and you can probably find the link and order the exact same one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274734314408 sheesh, this cost so much, but this is my #1 preference!

Yeah, while the speedo can break internally, more likely perhaps is a simple issue with the cable drive. I would look into the easy stuff first.

Do you have the angle drive for speedo cable top of the tranny? If so check the cap. Those are prone to falling out and releasing the cable core to fall out on the road.

pure good looks award goes to bugatti

We saw a Lucid when we were getting out of the car at French Lick at the hotel. I did s slow walk around and knew I was looking at something special . Did my research and had a long conversation with one of the staff about this car . We agreed this thing was righteous !

Gene, ride down to the Spring SSR & I’ll show you what Docc’s talking about with the clutch noise on my Rosso.

Hi. I'm convinced from your posts that you really have your head around this. It all makes sense. But... Please look at this again. You described two opposing situations (not enough sag without the rider vs. too much without the rider), but drew the same conclusion (too soft) in both cases. Doesn't add up...

Preach, the direction we’re going is to ride a bicycle to work.

Richard Thompson is one of my favorites. Have had the opportunity to see him 8 times or so since '95. One of the world's greatest unknowns...

I posted this elsewhere, in a reply about the V11 clutch rattle. I think it deserves a place here for the guitar mastery of Richard Thompson . . .

The racket differs. Dual disc rattles disengaged (lever pulled in) and the single rattles engaged (lever released). Either way, there is "The Rattle Within " . . .

Yup, thats it. Thanks docc! Pics from the Spine Raid a few years ago. Fantastic riding in TN and NC!

Yeah, six speed. Five speeds are ten a penny. I sold all my *Old* Guzzi munt a few years ago including several five speeds in various states of distress but I've still got one n the shed! I'm sure it just got squeezed out of some other space/time continuum and simply popped into existence in my garage because I sure as shit didn't put it there!

Fusion breakthrough!

It looks like all my photos have gone because the host must have changed something. (photobox.co.uk) Anyone got any ideas on how to get them linked back in?. They're still on the site but must have been given a new link or something. This thread needs the photos..I was really proud of it. UPDATE....I didn't realise I can still edit these old posts...It'll take some time and working out which photos to use but I think I can get it all done soon. 10 mins later all done! ENJOY

You're welcome, let me know if you need help, I think I can remember what I did.

Thanks for this magnificent post Troutman ! I'll be getting a different speedometer but your solution for the sender cable is what I was looking for !

So the backlight issue was my fault of course...didn't read the manual that came with the speedo. I hadn't powered up the backlight (I thought it would be there with main power but you are supposed to connect it to the light switch, which we don't have) Anyway I powered it from the other bulb wire and it all works fine. Thought I would take another photo of the speedo in the bike with the cover removed. You can see the wee rubber damper things. The ends of those need to be 82mm from the back of the bezel, it's easy to adjust using the thumbscrews and a small spanner.

4 x RUBBER MOUNTS 10mm dia x 10mm long M4 car boat Male anti vibration

The wiring is very simple too. I took power and earth from one of the two bulbs that came out the ITI unit. The green is power for the ETB speedo so I doubled that and put a male bullet connector to connect for the Daytona sensor. Same for the Earth. The Yellow Signal from the Daytona sensor plugs into the ETB Yellow which makes it easy. That's it! There's a hole load of other wires for various inputs into the ETB speedo. I just tied these up. The little button I am going to put up through the left handlebar hole in the tope yoke (this is because mine has had clip ons fitted so the original handlebar holes are still there). This will mean I don't have to drill that lovely dash. The M4 dampers arrived today so I'll get on and fit the speedo now. £5 from eBay.

I drilled the collar out to 9.5mm, enough to let it slide down the sender body but stop at the end flange..picture explains it. Fits in now This is what i've done with the speedo. I cut a plastic disc out using a 79mm hole saw ( I had one amazingly) from on old 3phase junction box I was going to chuck out. Then mounted it to the ETB screws and after much messing about managed to mark and drill the holes for the Guzzi cover. Just need those M4 dampers now.

Ok so I've been and had a look at things and I've come up with a plan. I decided to remove the rubber casing/jacket thing around the Daytona/Acewell unit, I did this very carefully with a new blade in my scalpel not going right through just part way and then tearing it. This allowed me to slide the M12 Cap up the cable and one at a time over the bullet connectors so we end up with this. The cable can now be carefully bent down very easily and kept out the way of the throttle linkage above. Next was to remove the old speedo cable from the bike and cut the end off so I could remove the large cap and collar/insert thing. The plan is to use this to slide down the new sender unit and use it to fix to the bike ...only small snag is the collar/insert needs drilling out from 8mm to 9.5 so it can slide down the body of the unit and get held by the flange. I might saw the very end off the small cap as it was made for this. I'll carry on later after a cup of tea. Everyone keeping up? If there is anything that doesn't make sense please shout up and i'll have a go at explaining better.

You'll probably need new fork springs after saving all that weight. Seriously - that's a good find on that speed sender unit. If I know about that, I would have used it instead of buying a more expensive GPS speedo when I did my Speedhut gauges. Once you verify that it sends a signal from transmission to electronic speedo, maybe you could add it to our Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts? Will you be able to cover the gauges - or just leave them open underneath the flyscreen?

So my new speedo arrived today and I've had a good look at it. The Wiring seems very straight forward and there is a wee button for toggling through the features, start stop, that sort of thing. This one shows (not very well) the bracket that will push onto the back of your dash for a different way of mounting it. Wiring for the speedo on the right, the speed sensor on the left. Thought I would weigh them both (old and new) ITI is 278gms ETB is 158gms. interesting weight loss and the old cable will be heavier than the thin wires for this. I know it's not much but at least it's lighter.

With a stash of these parts on hand I cast about to recombine three of these things into one that would get me through the impending Twelfth South'n Spine Raid. No joy. That one gear was, apparently, designed by Achilles' own podiatrist. And then, lo & behold: a complete NOS angle drive in the bag shoved tightly into an empty speedometer shell!

So i've hit a big hurdle.. I was under the impression the Acewell S4/Daytona speed sensor would screw straight onto the boss coming out the gearbox...well it doesn't! the male thread from the gearbox is much larger, maybe M14 not M12 like the Acewell. What's more you can't get a sensor that will have an M14 female end on it so it looks like some fabrication work is required. The good thing is that the sensor has no resistance at all so with the knurled nut removed somehow it could be held in another way, I was thinking heat shrink tube or something like that. It's very tight in there too, very close to the throttle linkage.