Leaderboard

a challenging year 2022 finished with a sunny afternoon ride

Pop it in a box and send it to us if it is the gearbox. It shouldn't cost a huge amount and we have all the necessary tools.

I have a 1 tonne chain hoist and straps you can use to secure the bike steering yoke to a beam.

That front yoke is not easy to see/assess within the front guard and ahead of the swingarm, but a bright light a close look should reveal if the yoke or uni-joint have gone awry. With the left side shift plate off, any fractured sliding dogs/"hoses" should be detectable peering in with a bright light whilst rocking the gearbox back and forth with the rear wheel. A flywheel failure, or clutch plate failure, would only be visible with the clutch removed from the flywheel "basket." Then, there is the matter of finding the New Zealander with the proper "special tools" . . .

If a little bit's good ........

Took some photos of front universal using smart phone & Endoscopy camera. Not that conclusive. Couldn't load other photos. See my gallery. Mission for today - put rear wheel back in to check movement in gearbox - shift bike to better working position in workshop - get back wheel & swingarm out

Ten gauge might be a bit much..

Somedays, this place reminds me of an old oyster bar my buddy and I used to hit up after closing down the restaurant/bar we worked at on The Gulf Coast. Somehow, the old guard just let us sit at the bar and sing along to David Allan Coe, "Pissed me off " . . . It was our theme song in those struggly days . . .

I'm hoping cause is something like your photo. Plan is to gather as much info as possible before I start dismantling i.e how I'm going to support bike: how to remove gearbox: who can repair gearbox if I can't

Well, I'd say you've pretty much achieved your goal. As I wrote, I've seen more or less the same recommendations over and over again. The context in which I have seen that stuff, and the gist of what they are often trying to communicate is "get the basic stuff sorted before you start dicking around with the map, or any of the other complicated things".

That is encouraging, actually. The "Decent Tune-up " is not something I made up or take credit for. Instead, it is an attempt to archive, link, and reference a concise tune-up procedure approachable by the majority of owners with a predictably good outcome. The procedure is a compendium, if you will, much like the "Maintenance Checklists" that link and reference significant contributions and discoveries in a relatively concise location:

My opinion is listen to what the experienced members here in this 20 year old V-11 forum tell you,, not what I see people on "Facebook are telling you..The motor should NOT have to come out imo...contrary to what Facebook people tell you, you don't need to do that to pull the transmission..find a place where you can support the bike from above with a "come along" or similar and a scissors table lift underneath, I have been thru this..Just Listen to what Pete, Scud, docc and other experienced members tell you..they are the experts on this bike ..take your time..and "crab" the frame..You can do this. You will feel very satisfied when done and know your bike so much better.

as soon as i earthed the reg to block the electrical issues stopped.

G'day I had a couple of issues like this early in the piece... Brad (mechanic) replaced the reg/rec with a Shendengan Mosfet jobbie and earthed it to the frame and no issues in 10 or more years. Still carry spare fuses but touch wood, haven't needed them! No idea what gauge the wire is though. Cheers Ps hope I haven't woken the infamous electrical demon for having dared mention this....

Thanks so much for the advice. So far I have not been able to see the instrument wiring harness disconnect. I will unbolt instrument cluster later today. Hopefully I can find it then. I have a Speedhut GPS speedometer.

Is the casing still good ? All you need is the inner ?

A good video would be nice

Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts

Thanks for that link. I'll have a better look at that sometime when it's not 2;00 a.m. However: After a quick glance at the first post there, I can say I have read most of that stuff elsewhere already. I'm one of the administrators in this german forum: https://www.guzzi-forum.de/Forum/ I'll get back to that.... The bloke I bought the Le Mans off had only had it for about half a year, and had been planning to keep it. I know him personally through that forum, and trust what he says. When he bought the bike it was (his words) "in a dismal condition". He put quite a lot of effort into getting the bike back in shape, and I am confident that he went through more or less the same procedure as docc describes there. He only put about 1,000 km. on the bike, so I assume (for now) that it's all good enough to be going on with. Getting back to the aforementioned german forum: Guzzidiag was developed principally by the forum member Beard (his real name is Bernd), with input from a couple of others from that forum. I've met Beard a couple of times, he's a really nice bloke. Even if I don't get around to having a look at the bike with Guzzidiag myself before then, I expect to be at the Forum Rally at the start of next June. There, Beard and Karsten (under whose name the forum is registered) spend the entire Saturday afternoon looking at people's bikes with Guzzidiag and adjusting what needs to be adjusted. So I think I've got that pretty much covered. I'm not an ace mechanic, but I'm dead keen to get into Guzzidiag, and things like keeping an eye on the valve clearances and so on is a matter of course. I"ll be onto it, don't worry.

@cash1000, visual inspection of the front driveshaft yoke shows it, and its fasteners, to be intact and unaffected? I ask because mine changed abruptly one day (and finding the fault here would preclude removing the gearbox) . . .

Good luck mate Hope it's an easy fix, better still easy and cheap! Stil, I doubt nothing easy in removing the gearbox eh! Cheers Guzzler

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing after my first post. It's all a bit moot though. The box is going to have to come out anyway so if when it's pulled out both clutch and flywheel are good then it's essentially got to be internal to the box doesn't it? Perhaps the nuts on the end of the shafts have loosened/spun off? That was the issue with the last V11 box I was buggering about with.

If it's starting then the ring gear is still concentric with the crank axis. I wouldn't expect it to turn over if the flywheel had broken up??? Perhaps it's a friction plate issue? Anyway, gearbox is still going to have to come out.

Hi Guys Many thanks for the input It looks like I am going to have to learn how to remove the gearbox. Good thing I'm on holiday for the next week