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Joe uses a very good grade of steel, EN24T, typical for gear and heavy-duty shaft manufacture. Joe says: "Machined from EN24T. This is a Nickel Chromium Molybdenum that combines a good high tensile steel strength with shock resistance, ductility and wear resistance with a tensile strength of 850/1000 N/mm². The Gears are then further surface-hardened by a Tufftride process to give an enhanced surface wear resistance which gives the finished black surface". International Steel Specification Comparison (EN24T) BS 970:1955 EN24T BS 970:1991 817M40T German / DIN 34CrNiMo6 French AFNOR 35NCD6 American AISI / SAE 4340 German Werkstoff No. 1.6582 European Standard EN10277-5

Is that the Input shaft ? Agreed that is an odd failure. As the experts have said, clean clean clean, make sure there is no loose bits in there, new bearing , reassemble and ride. Andy

Not mine. 2004 Nero Corsa 11k miles $7500 Located in North Windham CT https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1197129357868250/ wrong time and too many bikes in the shed but damn it’s a lovely looking bike.

I decided that I had a loose timing chain after a timing light showed erratic movement on the flywheel as rpm increased. I tried to get video of this, but it was beyond the combined abilities of borescope, old workshop laptop, & me. The obvious fix was a new chain & tensioner. I chose the more expensive gear replacement because, um... Now I find that the oil pump is worn. The needle roller inner race is grooved, and the shaft has 1.5mm slop. As the direction of side loads on the pump shaft are opposite when changing from chain to gear, a new one is on order. A Valpolini gasket is waiting to go on after the timing chest cover is powder coated. I tried to remind myself of a lesson from my father: "If it's not broken, don't try to fix it", but I'm a slow learner.

Contact Barnett Clutches & Cables in Ventura , Ca. See if they can help . I got a throttle cable made from them and got the best price / quality from these people .

Marty, after reading this you totally $§~|\£_^ my mind, soon Christmas right. It is a sweet upgrade in your head, everything more accurate. Had Pete Jackson gear drive on RB Mopar, and a BB Chevy . Yes perfect timing is of importance. Cheers Tom.

I'm with Pete. Wash everything out as well as possible, replace the failed bearing and drive on. On my last lube change I tried out Chevron Delo ESI 85/140. It's boron-based rather than ZDDP, has a thicker film surface and on my straight-cut gearbox made such a huge difference in noise that I wish I'd have measured it somehow. It's not on the shelf at your local auto parts but I think it's worth the wait to order.

I don't know about the reference to Tusk, but the photos clearly show a Hepco & Becker sticker on that rack... For less than a quarter of the price from new - providing it's still available from H&B - if that's what I was after, I'd be all over it like a monkey on a banana tree...

Simple decision. Cheers Tom.

Odd failure. I'd replace the bearing and see what happens. Make sure everything is cleaned out thoroughly and check the other bearings in the box.

Vince had no problem dismantling the gearbox Unfortunalty he found a bearing had failed Concern is has debris from bearing damaged other bearings Need to decide whether I get Vince to rebuild gearbox or find a 2nd hand box

Seller is a new member here. Located in New Mexico, USA: @worthyperformance

Count me out of fishing ... other than from the bank. I have hurled on almost every boat ride I've taken, whether aboard a dreadnaught or a dory, in heavy chop or on a glassy lake. Ditto aircraft of all sorts, tail draggers to Delta One over the pond. Heck, I was a master military parachutist back in the day, when the young(er) paratroopers had been carousing the night before and now smoked -- yes, really -- in flight. Couple that with an NOE flight on a hot North Carolina summer's day, and I was miserable. That said, I did become quite deft, even elegant , at filling the little bag. Apologies for the reverie of days of yore, but just reading about your fishing-charter plan made me step outside for a breath of fresh air where I recalled that ancient history. Just in case I have not been clear enough, that would be "NOPE!" to leaving shore. Best, Bill P.S. The sKSR, followed by the Mutton Run up to Daviess County, may actually be the start of a moto-run out to the PNW in early June.

Mark changed out the ignition switch and harness After I told him that was the first place to look. It quit Blowing the fuse after that. Talking into the phone..

Oil filters are sold w/the understanding they are externally mounted. It is up to the customer to remove labels to keep them from being a "factor" . This oil filter is the most important maintenance item you will ever install . You can install price or quality . Which one do you want ? I don't know how many filters interchange with this application . Wix , Baldwin , all OEM filters , AC Delco , Motorcraft , Mopar (yes US filters) , Wix , etc.....all good . Others , you will have to take one on one as far as good quality . Fram , the worst filters ever produced .

Handling is EX, and 700nm stock. Yes the misses like it. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

As an addendum, After installing my gears I developed a front seal leak. I blamed it on the seal, but it turned out to be the seal between the spacer and crankshaft. There's an o-ring inside the spacer sitting in a groove that I didn't see- which was hardened and came out in pieces- and on my '97 there is also a tapered relief in the crank end which was perfect to fit another o-ring as insurance. See # 7 & 8.

Ride it w/the 16 in. wheel for one year , then decide what you want to do .

Do they sell it in a V11-sized vat for dipping?

Gears are better than chains in every way but one- noise. Gears are noisy, chains are quiet. So any bike that has to pass any sort of noise test (EPA here) benefits from using a cam chain instead of gears. Even HD went to chains in their big twins, because they trade the cam noise for exhaust/intake noise. Functionally? Probably not noticeable, if the chain is good and the tensioner is adequate. Still, I'll have a set in mine eventually, because riding an Italian motorcycle and asking why something makes sense is a silly thing.

Mille probably used the Motoplat ignition which had electronic advance of a very unsophisticated type. It retarded the spark for starting but as soon as the engine fired it went to a quite high idle advance. Problem always was if it stalled you had to turn the ignition off to re-set it. Failing to do so and trying to start it would result in fireworks and carbs exiting stage right! As for the spark 'Wandering' due to a slack chain? Yes, it can definitely be a problem. Commonly known as 'Scatter' you can mark the flywheel and then watch the mark with a strobe. While at higher speeds and loads there may be negligible scatter, at lower speeds and light loads (especially with the horrid 'Flappy Foot' tensioner) you'll see the mark jump about like a monkey with St. Vitus Dance! More than enough to make the ECU have a brain fart. Pete

Okay so I thought I'd get cute and change my oil by using the port hole. Even spent 20 bucks on the tool. Everything goes great until I try to actually get the filter off. Filter wrench just wont fit on it right. No room to get any other tool or your hand on the filter....why make it nearly the same diameter as the filter? so now i just want to put it back together and do the filter next time. Can't get the porthole back on, keep cross threading it, try again and again.... So finally pull the sump. So easy. I can get the porthole to lay flat and thread, Plus I get to really clean it out. Easy to change filter...Moral, just pull the sump.