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I can give you advice and what will probably be a cheap fix for this, if you're lucky. If you're not so lucky I can give you a 'Cheaper than clutch replacement' fix. Gimme a few hours though because I'm on holidays at the beach and I need to go to bed and sleep first. pete PS. What year model Stelvio?

@Scud had low oil pressure in a V11. I think he found a broken out bit of gasket where the oil module meets the block. With a Roper plate, you have 2 gaskets to check. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/22545-low-pressure-oil-light-on-at-idle/page/2/#elControls_259408_menu

Has the oil filter partly unwound?

I think I may have found the problem…

Wikipedia? Crikey! C’mon man… sourcing info from Wikipedia is about as reliable as listening to the CDC Succinct Lovely

The other half of the seal dropped out of the case about a minute after I removed the filter. I’ve a new filter on hand so I’ll chuck that in and hopefully that’s that…

I wasn't able to get clutch & flywheel out last night. Its to tight to remove by hand. Thinking I could use a 3 leg puller Thoughts?

Thanks for all the input guys, I’m running fully synth 20W50. I did have a similar problem when installing the last filter and it was because the rubber ring from the previous filter was still stuck up there - but once that was found & removed it was all good. I was having trouble with the bike overheating and stalling, but after pulling all the injector feeds apart I found what looked like Bakelite (!?) partially clogging the left injector banjo… the right head was noticeably hotter than the left. But after I cleared it out it’s been fine, until I suddenly lost oil pressure half way home from work… I’m going to drain the oil and drop the sump tonight - I’ll let you know what I find…

True, here is the topic I created for it. @Jake it sounds like the problem appeared somewhat suddenly after a reasonable period of normal operation. To me, this suggests that you either have a big gap somewhere, or a failed pump. My bet would be on the gap. First suspect would be the oil filter - but for it to drop to zero, whatever is going on there should be totally obvious. The problem I has was a bit of gasket missing - that reduced the pressure, but did not drop it to zero. It would have to be a mighty-big bit of missing gasket to drop the pressure to zero.

Original Key Blanks https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1229

Here is a pair of side covers for sale on ebay -not mine- https://www.ebay.com/itm/154236415518?hash=item23e934ee1e:g:MgoAAOSwxVFfws-T&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsJdrvqkZ1lQI5qwOPk5QwbWQsKmm0LQBlJ8Ntj6gXdsLE7dv31r0YZ8oMapquRks4qHZPI90VMGquIVbBO4XzMRjTuXX5SrRz7%2BXhORhXfT%2FOwHRaiHOU3mVoj62EaM0gAE3%2FGf4yB%2FGn1lfqm3pAMWPr4dC4YRAdvTH%2BEIG5haEvcm82KuAGUEIKI5zPpSJkM6jjnsBhsSFJRPSlIp1V4uVDukBjCVNt4rWmJvzrJKo|tkp%3ABk9SR_TL9NizYQ

Got toothed crown off last night It looks fine Photos of both side

There are a few likely culprits, first off I wouldn't conduct any experiments that involved running the engine Was the bike likely to have been overheating? Its improbable, but if the bike got super hot then you could loose pressure, but I've never seen that on a 2v/v engine. I'm assuming there's oil in the engine As @MartyNZ said most likely culprit is the oil filter. Drop the pan and check, if that's not it the relief valve is in there too and check the gaskets Sounds like the filter to me, leaking and dropping the pressure when the engine is above 2k rpm pressure really starts to build up to 3k rpm when the engine's developing more or less full pressure (but you probably know that as you've a gauge), I reckon that's why you seen the small rise when you rev'd it. I think a gauge is a good idea, but I've encountered a lot of stiff competition on that philosophy, if you didn't have one you'd now be dicking around with oil pressure warning switch. Good Luck, be interested to know what you find.

Met Eric once - top bloke Mild but not meek The original was a really good film We all enjoyed it

Thank for the Drawing Doc. So 10 is only the outer layer. The workshop manual mentions alignment marks to use when reassembling normal clutch/flywheel (Needed to ensure timing is correct?). Are there going to be the same for the RM clutch/flywheel? I will be watching out for them and taking plenty of photos

Yes the toothed crown is what the starter motor acts on. I will check for cracks tonight

The actual flywheel (#7) bolts are seen, below, as #9 and obscured beneath the "Toothed Crown"/ #10. The Toothed Crown fasteners (#12) "Allen head type" are not the concern . . .

Seems Piaggio has a system to respond to records requests of that safety recall having been performed. Yet, those specific recall parts do not appear to be of issue with this bearing failure?

Docc "honey" is the one who lives here. The one who left is someone I have known for about 37 years (I met the one who lives here about 23 years ago...), and who I haven't seen for about 7 years. When someone like that comes to visit, you spend the time. Otherwise, my priorities are quite similar to yours....

I'm not sure I have my priorities exactly right. I would be, like, "Hang on, honey. I've got to reach out to this guy in The States about some freakishly obscure motorcycle part."

Back home again in Indiana.. wrote a song about it.. and can type again. For whatever reason, neither my Android tablet nor Kindle Fire would let me post on this site. They call me Rain man out in SoCal. Every time I come out it rains so I can't ride in the mountains because of the rock and mud slides. Sooooo, I called in a "historic" Pineapple Express *and* Bomb cyclone shortly after I took this picture. My job there was done.

I have not heard of any RM's (or anything else than a Scura, to be honest) suffering from the spontanious decomposing flywheels...

My wife's V11 still has one, has had it for years and many miles. No issues. Some people seem to be able to make a Power Commander work, others can't. But nowadays there are better ways to play with the tuning of a V11. Back then when we bought it there weren't.

THIS. When you reassembled the driveshaft, how did you align it? Did you use factory marks? IME these can be totally incorrect. Check alignment of two UJ's looking along the assembly. My Scura exploded front UJ. Below pic on L is aligned as it came from new (aligned according to paintmarks) & prior to damage not previously disassembled. KB PS: Audiomick - the missing triangle looks to me like something unrelated placed in front of the clutch assy.