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With the engine off have a bit of a fish about through the slot at the bottom of the bell housing with a magnet on a stick. You could have a poke about through the starter portal too. If the anti rattle springs jump ship they soon get smashed up and you usually get bits of them in the bottom of the bell housing. There also tends to be 'Pock marking' of the alloy on both the back of the crankcase and front of the gearbox caused by the bits of frag being flung around vigorously by the spinning flywheel. Victor Mattei from VA somewhere is doing a clutch and engine swap on his Stelvio right now and documenting it on ADV. lots of pics of the engine coming out and the damage in his clutch. Starts about here..... https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/moto-guzzi-stelvio-merged-threadfest.113158/page-3283 I've had a fair bit of input encouraging him and supplied the clutch so I have a dog in this particular fight! Oh, and blowing up that picture of the starter motor mounting hole as far as I can does seem to show some minor 'Pock marking' in the alloy of the case so it may well be that you've had a clutch explody failure.

Petes spring...

Excuse me resurrecting and old thread, but it seemed better than starting a new "single plate clutch" thread. It seems definitive that the Rosso Mandello, Scura and Tenni have single plate clutches and fragile flywheels; but for other models it's not 100% clear. e.g. does such a beast exist as a V11 with a single plate clutch, but not the problematic flywheel? I am possibly just about to pull the trigger on a 2003 Le Mans or a 2006 Ballabio, and it's surprisingly difficult to get definitive information about the clutches in these bikes. I have read stuff on the web that says the Le Mans has a single plate clutch and also that the Ballabio has a cable operated, single plate wet clutch So I went looking for people who know what they're talking about and ended up here! (I guess I should also post a new member introduction somewhere...)

Oh yes. A shittonne lighter. The flywheels and on later models the ring gears have got a lot lighter over the years. The early loops had a flywheel that actually had its own gravitational pull and light would bend going past it! It was vast, as was the ring gear. With the advent of the V7 Sport and 850T it was lightened considerably but it was still huge. That flywheel was what was used in all the T series bikes, the SP, Mille GT, Californias etc. The ring gear was also thinner. Then came the LeMans series and this was lighter again but was still a 'Full Circle' flywheel and used the same ring gear as the 'T' models. After this, with the advent of camshaft triggered ignition there was no longer the need for a full circle flywheel with timing marks so the Daytona and then the Sport 'C' and Centauro got the relieved steel flywheel, (As shown above while I was writing this.). The ring gear was also lightened once again and this assembly remained pretty much identical throughout the entire V11 series and the 2 valve per cylinder CARC bikes that superseded them. The one real oddball was the Sport 'C'. This has its own *Special* flywheel with triggering knobs on its perimeter as they use a weird twin trigger system for their ignition.

I can tell you that the RAM single plate assembly has been around since the 1980's. It was a fairly popular mod back in the day. It had a couple of problems. One was the fact that people used to buy the 'Race' version which had a sintered bronze friction material. Now this was all well and good in that it had good take-up and feel but it also wore very fast! Like in a road bike being ridden in a 'Sportsman's-like' manner you'd get 2,000 miles out of a plate if you were lucky! You cold also get an organic plate but it wasn't called 'Race' so knobs didn't buy it but it lasted ages and was a happy thing. I honestly can't remember whether those early flywheels were steel or aluminium? They were light though. I have no idea what the story was with the Scura etc. flywheels and clutch but they were built by RAM. My WAG is that Guzzi went to them and said they wanted some clutches but specified their own materials and thought they were being very clever by specifying aluminium for the flywheel and it turned out to be another of those 'Big wooly ears' bits of engineering that the in-house engineers used to throw out from time to time. Anywhichway it was a shitfight and remains so to this day! Lightening the flywheel used to be one of the 'Holy Grails' back in the Tonti days. Anyone who was building a hot-rod wanted the lightest set up they could find. I did it myself! In the end my 891 short stroke thing I built used the twin plater but with an alloy flywheel and very seriously lightened ring gear. It probably want quite as light as a RAM unit but it was extremely durable. After that project though I learnt to appreciate the wonders of a heavier flywheel in most road going situations. In fact in my old SP which had a mildly warmed over 950 Mid-valve motor in it I actually used an Eldorado flywheel, the heaviest one Guzzi ever made! It was a hoot to ride! Even my current *Fast* 8V Griso has a Cali 14 clutch in it that is heavier than the earlier 1200 clutch assemblies. It's a better bike for it. If I had a V11 with a single plater I'd just go twin plate with an alloy flywheel again. It worked well.

Welcome..This be the place!

Yep, and he's a legend. (mate...)

Yup, that's a bit of the anti-rattle/cush spring. With a bit of luck you got it before it can do much damage and you'll get away with just a plate.

An even younger Tal with the Master..

Jeff Beck own mastery of the guitar sounds of course but also a young Tal Wilkenfeld holding down the low end.. Sublime! R.I.P.

I tried to fix that, but couldn't . . .

from my notes: MPH Cycles Starter Interruptus mod Parts at http://www.cycleterminal.com/ (except the 14 AWG blue, green and white wires). The MPH Cycles part comes with a 10amp fuse in the fuse link. The heat shrink tubing and the black protective tubing could be replaced by ordinary electrical tape. You need a crimping tool for the brass terminals, but a garden variety tool from the hardware store will do fine. The connectors from Cycle Terminal come with male and female spade terminals. The "eye" terminal on the fuse link has to be purchased separately.

Due to popular demand we have decided to add an extra weekend for all the South'n (US) Spine Raider's for 2023, so how about a spring Kentucky Spine Raid a little farther north around Dale Hollow Lake area? As for a date, seems we were thinking the weekend between Mothers' Day and Memorial day . . . (Seven months out, at this point). May 19-21, 2023 Consider the discussion started, thoughts?

Hello all - Has anyone managed to take the original LMII sliding kill switch out of the twistgrip body? My switch has a broken wiring terminal so needs to come out for fixing, but I can't remove the external red slider. I don't want to risk breaking the switch, so I'd much appreciate any help you might give! Thanks Standingtree

Well I Got some Caig DeOxit, Took the kill switch apart, Sprayed it and worked the switch back and forth. It now works perfect. Thanks for the help.

Just had a look at Rizomas website. They look gorgeous, however they are somewhat pricey

My MT01 is 111 ft/lbs at only 3750 rpm, & 89 bhp. A simple old school long stroke air cooled pushrod V twin. It’s 585 lbs, so although not exactly a lightweight, it’s no boat anchor. You ride on an effortless wave of torque, the flattest torque curve I’ve ever seen and by 5000 rpm it’s all over just before the rev limiter cuts in

I love those Rizomas. They look stunning. Massive improvement over the stock stalks

https://willowgrove.com/fishing/

Sorry for long delay in replying. It's a 15M

here's a pic of what my plate was doing when I swapped gearboxes on my Griso. It was a 2012 motive unit. It was getting ready for the spring to jump ship. http://<a href="https://flic.kr/p/2mi3Frv" title=" by -convertpervert-"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51388731235_cbc137c80b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt=""></a> Sorry, still can't work out how to post up pics on this site from my iPad.

Started digging around the bellhousing a bit, rotating it as I moved along, and lo and behold, what do I manage to fish out!!! I suppose this now answers why the clutch wasn't disengaging

If it’s the same as a Centauro then yes it’s lighter than the Tonti FW.

So is Crocodile Dundee...

Yes it can docc. What I wonder is if RAM were making a version of the current (steel) lightened clutch assembly before Guzzi got the idea to have them produce the Aluminum flywheel single plate assembly for their 'specials.' So,... was it a Guzzi design in the beginning for the RM? .. and subsequently passed down to Scura and Tenni? Or a RAM design at the bequest of MG? or ...once it proved weak and discontinued through the line, did RAM decide to make it better? The lightened flywheel/clutch assembly introduced as oem in the V11 range was a good idea, but a failure. The tried and true reliable dual plate kit is the way to go for replacement ... says the Guzzisti in me. The smart me says avoid the 'presumed experiment' oem alm kit altogether. It's not worth the worry. The adventure me -thankfully- went with the later RAM single. And I think it fits closer to intended oem spec for the purest in me. It's too bad this assembly was not used throughout the spine line.

My friend had 2 original Scurra clutches turn out this way after 70,000 miles. I think I still have this one on a shelf.

This is the original V11 single plate/aluminum flywheel (RAM- made) assembly used in the V11 Rosso Mandello, Scura, and Tenni ?

just these. Yes I had to disassemble to remove it iirc. I think one bolt broke off. If you need something specific lemme know. I can dig it out and photograph it. I layered the pics, like turning a page. 3 and 4 are reversed in this

Of course. She is Australian.

@LaGrasta those links to V11LM threads you posted don't work..

Now down to $6500.

Adding a relay is the way to go. You could try with a deasent cable from battery directly to the solenoid, to see if the starter engages,, every time. Of course bike in neutral and all that. Going thru all electric connections is a big bonus. It’s called learning to know your bike, very rewarding. Cheers Tom.

I had intermittent starter issues ever since I bought mine, which increased over time to the point that it mimicked a bad battery- dimming lights, slow cranking, hard starting in general. Two years ago at the SSR it wouldn't crank at all, but later at home it started again. The long story short is that the pinion bearing in the starter was seizing. Here's the thread.

If the lights dim and you do hear a "click", then there could also be a loose magnet in the starter motor. I had that, and all symtoms showed a poor battery (voltage went down significantly when I pushed the button, as low as 6v). After replacing the battery, the problem persisted. I fixed it by changing out the starter motor & disassembled the old one, found a loose magnet inside.

Taking Pete's advice, I checked the play in the lever, and seeing that it was ~1.5cm of freeplay until the clutch started to engage, I decided to adjust the plunger hoping that would fix my issue

There was a bad batch of clutch plates in 2012 and I've heard of a 2013 bike having the problem too so let's not rule out the clutch entirely. I'll come back to that though. Firstly, all the CARC bikes and to a lesser extent the V11's are murder on their clutch fluid. It's for this reason that we change it at every 10,000km service or yearly, whichever comes first. If your fluid hasn't been changed regularly it may just be that the bore and seals of your master cylinder are rooted. If it's just the seals it can be rebuilt but if the bore is damaged it will need sleeving and finding somewhere to do that nowadays is getting hard, at least it is here. If that isn't a possibility new M/C's are still available but they're spendy! An alternative, more expensive but with the benefit of a lighter pull, is to go to a 16mm radial master. You'll probably need to change the hose to the slave though. Another, much cheaper, possibility is that the actuating plunger on the clutch lever has come loose and backed off. How much travel is there in the lever before you feel the piston in the master cylinder start to move? If you look at the lever you will see there is a barrel with a plunger coming out of it that actually goes into the back of the master cylinder to press on and operate the piston. That plunger is threaded and screwed into the little barrel in the lever and is usually loctited in place but it's real locating mechanism is a tiny 1.5mm hex grub screw threaded into the underside of the barrel that locks it in place. Now it's not uncommon for the grub screw to loosen or fail to properly locate the plunger so, if the Loctite fails, the plunger can move in the threads in the barrel and usually it winds out, away from the piston. When this happens more and more of the travel of the lever is used taking up the *Space* between the plunger and the piston before the piston itself starts moving, pressurising the line and lifting the clutch. When it winds out far enough there is no longer sufficient lift for the clutch to engage so the bike will 'Creep' in gear when halted and gear changing becomes difficult. If that is the problem the cure is simple. Remove the lever, loosen the grub screw in the barrel, (Use a VERY good Allen key or you'll round out the hex in the screw.) then wind the plunger out of the barrel a bit. The aim is to have only the tiniest bit of clearance 0.25-0.75mm or 10 to 25 thou between the end of the plunger and the piston of the master cylinder while the lever is at rest but the piston has to be able to fully return to the end of its travel to open the priming port to the reservoir. If it can't then the system becomes 'Closed' and as the fluid expands as it heats up it has no way to return to the reservoir so it starts lifting the clutch leading to slippage under load. It takes a bit of faffing about and trial and error but once you've got the length right the clutch should both work without dragging and not slip under load when hot. Once it's working OK nip up the grub screw to prevent the plunger from moving again. Although the plunger does have a slot for a flat bladed screwdriver in the back to allow adjustment it is usually full of Loctite so what I tend to do is simply hold the plunger in soft jaws in a vice and turn it by using the clutch lever as a lever to turn the barrel on it. If it's very tight? Heat the barrel to soften the Loctite with a propane torch, (Carefully obviously!). Of course if none of these things help then yes, you will have to go in and investigate the clutch. The *Usual* failure on the bad batch of plates is that the cush/anti rattle springs in the centre of the plate destroy their seats in the hub and eventually make a break for freedom. When this happens though the result is usually catastrophic and very, very noisy! What happens and what you have to do about it was well documented on Wildguzzi a few years ago in a thread titled 'Horrors in my bellhousing' by a bloke called Sean in British Columbia. Lots of pics to help too.

Met Eric once - top bloke Mild but not meek The original was a really good film We all enjoyed it

For a V11 Sport, @Lucky Phil speaks highly of the Rizoma mirrors on his V10/11Sport:

Count me out of fishing ... other than from the bank. I have hurled on almost every boat ride I've taken, whether aboard a dreadnaught or a dory, in heavy chop or on a glassy lake. Ditto aircraft of all sorts, tail draggers to Delta One over the pond. Heck, I was a master military parachutist back in the day, when the young(er) paratroopers had been carousing the night before and now smoked -- yes, really -- in flight. Couple that with an NOE flight on a hot North Carolina summer's day, and I was miserable. That said, I did become quite deft, even elegant , at filling the little bag. Apologies for the reverie of days of yore, but just reading about your fishing-charter plan made me step outside for a breath of fresh air where I recalled that ancient history. Just in case I have not been clear enough, that would be "NOPE!" to leaving shore. Best, Bill P.S. The sKSR, followed by the Mutton Run up to Daviess County, may actually be the start of a moto-run out to the PNW in early June.

I thought those were all the same job!

Here's mine, no makeup or expensive jewelry.

Pretty much any mirror is like a wart but you do need them on a road bike, at least until someone comes up with a decent helmet or cycle mounted rear vision LED screen. Here are mine, Rizzoma bought 8 or so years ago. As small and neat as I could find and still provide a decent rear view. Owing to my massive,broad and manly shoulders I have them extending about an inch past the bar tips but you can adjust them in further and down further if you want a more stealth look. Quality pieces. Ciao

I did some rough math once... and I think it's possible that the "limited edition" Scura is one of the most common variants in the whole V11 series. Scura are arthropods belonging to the class Chilopoda of the subphylum Myriapoda. They are elongated metameric creatures with one pair of legs per body segment. Scura are known to be highly venomous, and often inject paralyzing venom.