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With any CARC bike there are a few things you should be aware of that will need addressing if they haven't been already, and they rarely have. Most critically on the 2V models are the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings which are rarely, if ever, greased properly ex-factory. By now, sixteen years on in the case of any 2V bike, the bearings will be a mass of rust unless the bike has only ever been ridden in the dry in somewhere like Arizona! While you're fixing that up is also the ideal time to dribble a tiny bit of Loctite 'Super wick-in' down onto the threads of the pinion nut in the bevelbox which will help prevent it loosening if the bearings loose their preload. The third and final thing which isn't vital but is wise is replacing the sump spacer gasket that goes between the spacer and the block with one of the thicker aftermarket gaskets as the factory ones have a habit of blowing out around the front delivery gallery diminishing oil pressure and causing big end damage. This is more prevalent on 8V's but can happen on 2V engines as well. The actual tuning of a W5AM Guzzi has been covered here before so I won't repeat it but it is vital that nobody messes with the throttlebodies unless they are fully conversant with how the system works. If you do a search for my vids on YouTube I've actually done an explanatory video on CARC bike throttlebodies which you may find useful. The TB's in the vid are a set of 50mm ones off an 8V but exactly the same principles apply to she smaller units used on the 2V bikes.

These kids caught this thing in a stream you could leap Across (Minnehaha creek) they roped it by the tail and dragged it out. Fish was released fine after taking the pic.

http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/modelli/dr-john-tribute-2

I KNEW that was coming Bill!...

Joe, What kit is it in your pictures? Is it from mph? On the mph page they seem to only be selling a kit for handlebars, and not for clipons.

A fish, silly. Seriously, I'm going to go with Lake Sturgeon, but am curious, too.

Here is a good source Left rear https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=83 and Right rear https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=84

Icenian, you could do this to V11 Sport early models. https://mphcycles.com/handle-bar-risers/

The push rod for the clutch on a 6-speed trans is 8 mm its 6 mm for a 5-speed. So, you Will need the thrust cup from a 6-speed trans (they fit right in). Also, you'll need the right input hub. The length of the splines on the ram clutch are .6900 inches the normal 6 speed is .9040 and for the 5 speed the splines are .9675. The 5-speed hub sits a little proud but looking at the wear pattern there is more than enough room for the plates to work freely. You asked the question should I reuse the old flywheel. Did you check for cracks? The pictures looked awfully good. If you're going to revisit your clutch in about 15,000 miles, I might put it back in. If its 40,000 before you return NO WAY, would I reuse it. The cush drive is all the way downstream. The clutch on these bikes takes a quite the beating. Aluminum just isn't up to the task this kind of dynamic loading. If you went with the 5-speed Ram clutch the push rod will have to be reworked. If you go with centauro clutch you're going to need more force to pull in the clutch, and you'll give up a little of the engine snappiness. The trade off it might feel a little smoother.

Have these sitting in my spares box: MotoBits: I believe all the parts are present and will include the printed instructions. $340 new. Asking $175 shipped. Knight Designs: Silver Quadtrax. They're the 1" lowering design with the more aggressive tread pattern. $174 new. Asking $75 shipped.

Here, that’ll explain it forya: https://mphcycles.com/handle-bar-risers/

Would that fit a V11? Or too many changes to expect simplicity?

Reserved our room before we left last year.

Yep, I'm on the 939 board. I wound up putting bar end mirrors on and absolutely love them. No arms blocking the view and zero vibrations.

I rode a 1200 Sport, and compared to my Griso or the wife's V11 Sport it was something of a marshmallow. Too soft for my tastes, not precise enough. Also, the seat was not comfortable after 30 minutes. But you do you. Go with the one that floats your boat. A bike can always be fixed up if in poorer shape. And it can even be customized to suit. We replaced the clip-ons the wife's V11 sport came with (ironically) a set of Ballabio handlebars. Drill out the stock triple clamp and the Ballabio bar mounts bolt right up.

It was a attemt to reduce the clutch noise (not a great success) and to improve the behavior of the clutch action when downshifting. This is much better, the "tripod?" clutchplate flex maybe a little compared to the original.

Nice package!! Definitely worth taking for a test ride Note though, it is a red frame, I hear it makes for a twitchy ride... I don’t know that I could handle it the way it deserves to be with my youth slowly becoming a vague memory

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134409704364?hash=item1f4b7153ac%3Ag%3Anp8AAOSwXytjv4US&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoO4kHliR20WFL%2Fq5Rqm%2FusuFm9rIWoUq5zHO4hvJ7LMg5tdS3TrEcKDIKy8pCldBPp1sxN9arl3dS3qxbMVXwOTck9OACWe8bX3KEYpuEidq8wMXoukSNHYkZP2P0ydhH4Y1%2B11sdETJaXmuM04iWZoMn4NsEQCLR%2BxYTTwWpIMiWH8Exi%2BX%2BERCnm8z4xgXOCHhAuRjyszjb%2Ff%2FH%2BTJXjE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4iR48G3YQ&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500

If it were as easy as fishin' you could be a musician..... if you could make sounds loud or mellow

Can anyone confirm please? If not, I'll start poking each wire to see what lights, lol I should explain further. I removed each light socket, marked each before doing so. Then afterward realized the pen I used wiped off the masking tape while working with the harness. I then proceeded to remove the now unless tape and inadvertently also slid off the tiny zip ties that contained two wires, per socket. I now have all of these wires, unclear what one is positive, what one is negative, and what two belong together. The above is what I have concluded thus far. I'll figure it out, then post to the thread if no one else has ever recorded these facts.

BTW, comparing a 1200 Sport to a Griso, and I right in thinking the riding position is actually pretty similar? At first glance they look like totally different types of bike, but having sat on a Griso (have only actually ridden the 1200 Sport) it seemed more like a sports bike than I had expected. In particular, the bars seemed low enough that the absemce of a fairing would be fine. It's one of the ironies of bike design that if you don't get a fairing to keep the wind off, the designer seems to think you want to sit upright. To me, the less wind protection you have, the lower the bars want to be. I had one of the early model (T300) Speed Triples and loved it. Would be too radical for me now, but clip-ons below the top yoke and no fairing were a great combination for me. If I had had the Daytona with the same riding position but a large fairing I think it would have crippled me!

Right, OK, so "buy all of them" seems to win Thanks for the views! An entertaining read. The Le Mans vs. Ballabio comments are interesting. I probably wouldn't have considered the Ballabio, but the Le Mans is in the worst condition of all the bikes I have looked at. Nothing that needs fixing, but lots flaking engine paint and fasteners, brackets etc. that are corroding. It would be lots of work to go through everything. Also availability of specific Le Mans parts like the fairing could be an issue, whereas the Ballabio is closer to other naked/handlebar-mounted fairing V11 models -- I would be less upset about doing that to a Ballabio than losing one of the things that makes the Le Mans so distinctive.

I've got flywheel away being crack tested (thanks MartyNZ)

That setup was on my'03 when I bought it 11 years ago. PO had no accompanying paperwork so not sure of manufacturer. No markings that I have seen either. I ride with bars all way up to save my back, makes it good for longer distances and like you said doesn't affect the OEM fork length.

BTDT That's the late, great Dennis Kristof admiring -- as was quite appropriate -- my Griso. FWIW, the river was not narrow that day after some late spring rains. Bill

I inspect the flywheel/clutch assembly of my Rosso Mandello last winter, no sign of cracks at all. Maybe the Rosso Mandello isnt affected with this issue? And how many of the Scura`s is affected? I also installed the new type of clutch plate, much smooter engaging, but some issues with the clutch dragging, now sorted out Jens

I just looked, it was not in the package with the kit. BUT I have another clutch from an EV big twin minus the flywheel and there is a thrust cup with that. It fits the Centauro pressure plate so I would include that. So yes I have one that will work.

Brad’s offer is very good and the way I’d go. In fact I did with Chuck’s old Scura when I bought it. I’d get the pressure plate and ring gear ground and fit new friction plates and intermediate and you’ll never have to look at it again. Brad? Do you have the thrust cup for it as well?

Well the replacement flywheel only is $580.US and not in stock.. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4409 makes my complete kit offered for $350US sound like a real steal. I must be out of my mind to sell for that🙃 This is used out of a Centauro but will fit the six speed too. NOT ALUMINUM but light. Weight, about 9 pounds . Splines look excellent. I’ll even order new springs for you. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4986 I’m not trying to pressure you cause I’m happy to keep on my shelf for now, just sayin..pressure plate/ring gear, friction and intermediate plates included. I think Pete recommends new friction plates. I could get them from MGcycle and put in the same package I bet.. shipping about $75US if they fit in a flat rate box.

To paraphrase Dirty Harry, do you feel lucky kid?

I just picked up a 1989 LeMans 1000. It's a well-loved rider with extensive upgrades... full Zard exhaust, Caruso timing gears, electronic ignition, seriously upgraded suspension, etc. It was previously owned by a local guy who is an excellent rider. I've chased this bike on my Scura and had a hard time keeping him in sight. Just took my first short ride and loved it. Though I must say... there is a big difference between 1989s LeMans 5 speed tranny with manual clutch and 2000's 6 speed with hydraulic.

The 1000S I picked up about a year and a half ago is now fully sorted.

Hey All, I found a company called Caspers Electronics in Colorado that made me an inline TPS breakout harness with colors to match the Guzzi harness for $20! This harness uses one Delphi Metripack 3 wire female connector and one male mating connector of Caspers' own design (which Delphi never offered). Caspers sells the mating connector alone here: http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=9_60&product_id=561 I know you can just back-probe the connector to measure the TPS voltage. That is what I have done in the past, but I wanted something a little more secure that I could leave connected during a ride to try out some slight adjustments on the road. The guy I dealt with was Dennis (dennis@casperselectronics.com). He finished the harness within a few hours of my request and shipped it the next day. If anyone else wants one of these, here is what I asked for: "I am looking for a TPS breakout harness that is similar in concept to your part #108106, but uses the Metripack 150.2 pull to seat 3 way connector (the oval shaped one w/ the green seal, not the round one) and your mating connector (part # 410016). Can you give me a price for a harness like this?" (the price was $19.95) These are the wire colors of the Guzzi harness: A - Violet B - Yellow C - Black/Violet I didn't specify any wire lengths and he gave me about 20" of unterminated wire for the breakout part and about 2-3" between the connectors. I terminated the breakout wires myself with some 2mm sockets for my multimeter leads. Edit: This harness is now a stocked part (#109172) at Caspers. http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853 Dan

Docc.. we're all lucky to be able to play with our motorcycles of choice.

Truth be known, I keep things forever. What things? Everything! If I had gotten that GreenFrame1000S, I would not *know* all of you fine folks. A Tonti would be wonderful to own. And a Loop. But I feel really, really lucky!

I had a Centauro bought over the phone from a Chicago dealer. When I arrived, he said, "sorry, just got my new blue book, and it's $1600 more. I never said a word. Just turned on my heels and walked, even though he was calling my name.. I don't play those kinds of games.

My 1973 V7 Sport

That's the AeroLario.. a Lario with the Hunter drone engine converted for motorcycle use. 2017-06-09_01-07-33 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

I am tired of struggling with pins in the connector, burning my knuckles on a hot engine, etc etc. I worry repeated back-probing will damage the connector eventually. I contacted Casper's and they offer the breakout harness as part of their catalog: http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1621 This will make monitoring the TPS a LOT easier, which means I will be willing to do it more often. Kind of like having the right tools to grease the rear u-joints! UPDATE: This thing is really great. I had been fiddling around with the TPS and getting nowhere. The pin method was iffy at best. I couldn't get a smooth idle, even after doing valves, tightening up all boots, hoses etc etc. With the breakout harness, I was able to easily hook up a multimeter and adjust the TPS EXACTLY at 150 mv when disconnected and closed. Then I screwed in the LH idle till it read 475 mv EXACTLY (to match my "modified stock" map per Todd @ Guzzitech). Hit the starter and BAM, smooth idle. Now it runs like it should. I never thought that ultra tiny variations in millivolts would make such a big difference. They do. With this harness you can get it really right. If you have fallen down a rabbit hole of TPS, idle, and running issues, get the TPS right first using this harness. P.S. While fiddling around, remove the headlight relay to save the battery. Don't ask.