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Spine frames are a bit of a challenge lining up mechanics, not old enough for the vintage guys,,not new enough for the modern guys. I'll throw 2 names out,they probably wouldn't want to do the work,but they're both highly respected and might know of someone close to you that's capable. Charlie at ACC Antietam Classic Cycle in Maryland does excellent tranny work, but I've only ever seen him touching Loop & Tonti frame bikes (301)432-2275. Jim Hamlin at Hamlin Cycles in CT is highly respected as well,but to my knowledge modern stuff is his main business 203-942-2232 I'm not an Ebay guy so I don't know how to search it properly;but I know within the last year, while searching for other parts,I've stumbled across salvage dealers down in the US who were parting out a V11 on Ebay,you might get lucky. fwiw idk fyi. Good luck

Try giving Mike at MPH in Houston a bell. 281 647 6557 Say Hi from me! 👍

Thank you all for the comments and recommendations! I was able to meet with the fine folks at Motoplex in West Chester, PA (15 mins from home) today and they have agreed to perform the gearbox swap for me. Both the GM and Service Manager are top notch motorcycle guys and I am looking forward to working with them to get my Italian beauty restored to her former glory. Will plan to visit some of the shops you guys recommended once the weather breaks and I have all 6 gears available

I agree with 80CX100 about Jim Hamlin @ Hamlin Cycles in CT, he is a top notch guy. He sells used Guzzi's my guess is he can work on V11 Lemans. As for parts or special tools, you may consider Curtis at Harpers Moto Guzzi. https://www.harpermoto.com/ https://www.harpermoto.com/parts-lookup/2000-2009-moto-guzzis/v-11-le-mans-1100-2002/transmission-complete-ii/

The problem I see with the box out of Germany is that it's another one from the same, failure prone, run isn't it? That would seem like playing Russian roulette with two of the chambers loaded rather than one! You surely don't want to be back at square one in a few months if the second box shits itself! As to the factory assembling the gearboxes so they'll be better than one built by a skilled mechanic? Are you mad? The factory uses the cheapest labour possible and assembly is rote learnt without a lot of knowledge or understanding. There is a lot of 'Monkey see, monkey do' on an assembly room floor believe me! The other problem will be finding a second hand box. I was looking a few weeks ago for a fellow mechanic in Victoria and V11 gearboxes seem to be like rocking horse shit! Finding one that is fresh and unproblematic could well be a real issue. If it were mine I'd be stripping it and inspecting for further damage before making the final decision. As long as the pinions are ok and the shafts are straight I'd be rebuilding it. It's not a big job.

Chester Springs to the Lodge at Tellico would be an absolute epic ride. SSR 2023

The gearbox Joe had pictured looks like the way to go ! You get in there and things could get out of hand quick .When you do get it going , fill w/new fluid , ride it 100 mi. and drain / refill. Examine the fluid to see what it looks like .

Been the only Spiney showing up to this the last few years....how about some company (even if you show up on or in something else)? May 11-14 . 10th annual Guzzi Gathering in Cedar Vale KS . Hewins Park , 101 Sale Barn RD Come hang out in an idyllic setting and shelter in an 110 year old pavilion that is on the National Historic Registry . Believe it or not there are some fun roads in the area , and this part of Kansas is verdant and hilly . Saturday evening catfish and hush puppy meal done from scratch . $30.00 per person , $45.00 per couple . This covers tent camping and the Sat evening meal . As with most Guzzi rallies someone will be cooking for the group Thurs and Fri evening , we will have donation cans out to cover those folks . This is done by deposit so the host knows how much food to order . contact oldbike54@gmail.com for info .

And, then there's the recommended "updates" ...indestructible shift spring, etc.

Definitely considering replacing the whole thing, and that ebay unit out of Germany looks to be exactly what I need. Local dealer declined to do the rebuild, but was going to get back to me on a swap. If they give the greenlight I'll get that unit ordered up ASAP. Looks like I'd have to transfer the rear cover, gear selector unit, and the shift selector arms to make it complete.

Might be better to find a used trans? and swap it out. By the time you track down a shop that can do the work and has the time, then get it there, pay them for all the parts and labor and then hope they do it right....just sayin.

Have you considered replacing the whole unit? Install complete without taking it apart and all the special tools issues. Have a buddy w a V11 Sport, with both a salvaged transmission and motor, bike runs fine.

I'll broaden the scope here to include any shops in the US that have the tools, and know how, to rebuild the gearbox if I yank it and send it out. Appreciate any leads.

If in fact it is the rear bearing on the Output shaft( the one the driveshaft connects to), that bearing Guzzi part #92201141 ( might be an old number ) - it is a 40 x 68 x 15 ball bearing. Any good bearing house should be able to get them. easy access to parts diagrams on Harpers web site Now that I think about it I might have one in my favorite draw. I will have to go look

Big bearings are not listed on that parts page. Only bearings on there are the ones that go on each shaft that the gears themselves actually rotate on.

The latest batch went out today. I'd recommend boiling the package for 15 minutes.. I'm still testing positive after 10 days.. Sheesh.

THAT is the dude that passed me going up the Cherohala! Oh, wait . . . that same dude passes me EVERY year going up the Cherohala . . .

Yeah, I've told him we aren't really put together like a CubScout Den, all greased grooves and ticked boxes. We're more like spilled drinks looking for a mop . . . Bottle rockets out of a wide mouth Mason jar . . . Don't get me going about nailing cats to the wall or herding Jello.

Correct, the steel flywheel of the twin plate clutch is a non-issue on all V11 models 1999-2005. It is the aluminum flywheel of the single plate clutches on the 2001 Rosso Mandello, and 2002 Scura and Tenni. The question remains unanswered if every one and all of these flywheels are suspect, or only a batch/production run of them. For instance, has a 2001 Rosso Mandello has ever suffered this failure? Or even a Tenni that we know of?

Dear All, After weighing all the options I found the most feasible solution to replace the faulty stock O2 sensor with the BOSCH Type LSH 24, LS 6206, part.no 0258006206, length 325 mm The „collar“ of the above mentioned sensor is 18mm which is slightly wider than the original stock sensor’s 16mm (for full details see my post from Sep 2 above), nevertheless, it fits in the place. I don’t have any info about actual performance because I need to reassemble the rear drive, put the wheel back, etc… So to recap -> if you are to replace your stock O2 sensor on V11 Ballabio 2004 (in the post above I have wrongly stated that I have Ballabio 2003, but in fact I have 2004) with stock cross-over, you might have to opt for the BOSCH Type LSH 24, LS 6206, part.no 0258006206, length 325 mm which is the one that can fit in the tight space and does not interfere with the engine block frame. Miro

Sorry I tried to ignore this but anyway. First off I'd like to state that there MAY be some bias in the above. Obviously Dynojet have a vested interest in ECUs not doing the right thing but enough of that I'd like to keep on topic. As an electronics engineer with control system experience my interest is from the technical view point. I don't have a interest in maintaining a belief of one system being superior to another and recognise that all systems are a balance of compromises and assumptions. In fact most the my units are run open loop. Firstly, yes it is important to make sure your o2 sensor is giving the correct readings. It also important that all other sensors ( air temp, air pressure etc ) are correct. In fact the our standard "open loop" systems are in fact "closed loop" in a way as they respond to these other sensors and modify their output. The new ECUs are really only adding an addition sensor to the mix. Secondly its a gross oversimplification to treat any 2 closed loop controllers as the same. "Closed Loop" can be done in so many ways. Technically a real closed loop ECU would have no map at all. All its outputs would be based purely on sensor inputs. I don't think there are any controllers of this type out there. The bulk of closed loop ECUs would be operate from a map just as an open loop controller. They would than perform small adjustments based on the sensors. The variation between the controllers would come from a number of areas 1) How quickly they respond to the sensors 2) How much compensation they apply to the map 3) When and under what conditions they decide to be open loop or closed loop 4) Whether they learn ( correct the map over time ) The list goes on but probably the most important N) what is the manufacturer's aim in putting in a closed loop controller? Is it to extract the optimal performance from an engine. Perhaps if its the Honda Race team. Its more likely an attempt to reduce the emissions to pass the EPA requirements. This is not optimal as far as the rider is concerned. This in itself will create an impression of closed loop controllers being less than open loop controllers. One question about the PC tuning on the dyno. Are the adjustments to the map derived from the gas sensor?

Sorry to hear / see that word "my" in a listing.