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G'day mate Glad to hear you're getting it sorted... Yeah, 15mm does sound a bit extreme but I believe some here have the Ohlins shock which is 8mm longer than standard AND have forks up in the triples 5-8mm... So maybe not as extreme as we think?? I know when I was discussing raising mine by 10mm, Rob ( mechanic ) thought it was a bit much and thought try 5 so we settled on 8mm ha ha. There are NO issues whatsoever with it and I'm pretty chuffed now! The only thing I'd be tempted to try would be more sporting tyres just to feel the difference as have only ever run sport touring, but I can just hear the Minister now ... Why do you need tyres at 7000 kays when the last ones went 15 ? Cheers Ps (Angel GT2 at 11k now and looks like quite a bit left) Pps still glowing from my wee ride yesterday ha ha gotta love these bloody things before they... COME TO TAKE ME AWAY Ha Ha

G'day folk's Just an update for anyone that's interested... I managed to get out on the bike for a 160 or so kay ride and managed to test the suspension settings again. I had moved the Comp back to 4 clicks in and Reb 6 x clicks in ( both from fully out or soft from previous settings of C + 2 /R +4 ) as felt the comp need a wee bit more. They'll be staying put on these now as I love the way she handles and the feel from front end is bloody marvelous... Love it Cheers Guzzler

I replaced my stock (tire) valve stems with 83 degree angled stems, replaced the front wheel bearings and disc hardware (now titanium). Rear wheel bearings and disc hardware coming up next.

Here’s an article regarding Adaptive Fuel Systems that those who’s bikes are factory equipped with the adaptive 15RC ECU may find useful in appreciating that added level of control https://tuneecu.net/Tunes_in_Hex_and_dat/TuneECU/Adaptive_Fuel_Systems_EN.pdf As an update report - my bike continues to run perfectly since it’s O2 sensor upgrade swap - irrespective of where it lies on its maintenance arc - it’s cough cure heaven! All good 👍😎 https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2021/07/oxygen-sensors-tuning/

I went ahead and installed one bearing so that I could measure the length that my spacer would need to be. Sure enough, it needs to be .014 inches longer to not bind. So my new bearings would have had a shortened life. I’ll get some .015 shim stock and make a shim.

Yes..They do that now when registering a vehicle from out of state...once its been registered in Ca they never check again.

Yep, my 2002 has no engine number anymore either because my cases were factory warranty replaced waaaaay back when due to the early bikes having their fuzzy black paint bubble off. I've always wondered if no longer having engine case numbers may cause a problem one day from a documentation perspective, but it of course isn't the bike's VIN, so probably not. Although I suppose being an issue or not may vary depending on where one lives and the relevant vehicle laws regarding registration and titling.

This might seem obvious to many. When I was reassembling the swing arm into the frame I found useful to put a wooden stick thru the frame hole and swing arm pivot hole on one side – to align them as much as possible (please see the picture). Then I was able to correctly screw in the pivot bolt on the opposite side more easily. Of course, I had the swing arm top section already attached and fixed to the shock absorber.

As Columbo once said "just one more thing". When you are playing w/the adjustments , you are going to have to get familiar with the turn to distance ratio . as in one half turn equals 0.002" .Get you a SMALL feeler gauge set from NAPA and use it to see how much one turn will gain you. I did all this because I didn't know the thread pitch . e.g. : thread pitch is 1.25 , this is 1.25mm between thread. One turn gives you 1.25mm movement. You will use this when you are synchronizing the throttle plates.

Pick up completed gearbox yesterday. Great service from Vince. 2 weeks earlier than I expected and cheaper Got some painting to do before I re fit. Paint flaking off from top & bottom of gearbox plus some touch ups to swingarm etc

Thanks doc, Will do! I made sure the front spacer was ‘proud’ of the bearing bore inner face before tapping the second bearing in place. I know the rear bearing spacers are the more troublesome of the two. I had a rear go in my old V11, back in 2009-ish.

*jealous glare*

NoNoNoNo. the idle speed is set w/the idle speed screw Docc mentioned.

Just for interest's sake: In Victoria, Australia, both engine number and frame number are in the papers, and the police go looking for them both if they do a vehicle check. In Germany, the frame number (VIN) is in the papers, but the engine number is not. Given the reputation for being finicky about details that Germans have (which often bears up in reality...) I don't understand that at all.

Getting the bike to idle high enough is what the idle stop screw(s) are for. After all of the other steps are completed, simply use the left idle stop and put the idle where you (and the bike) like it.

A series of @FuelCooler's bearing posts have been split to a Bearing Thread hopefully to get some attention on his spacer length question: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20765-rear-bearings-and-brake/page/6/

Unknown mileage, it wasn’t the original wheel. It was the brake disc side that went. If I recall correctly, I thought there was something weird going on the rear brake at the end of a 500 mile trip. I jacked it up and when I spun the wheel it was immediately obvious.

Nice to hear your updates and adjustments. I now have my fork in the riser at 15mm, much better turning. That may sound extreme, but I tested and tested, and it felt best. Come to find out, Todd over at GuzziTech advises this exact amount. I was merely basing my adjustments to the V7 steering, which is great. Next is setting my sag, as I have the tank back off, allowing access to the shock adjustment. If you're curious of proper sag settings, search for my sag thread.

An old thread, but it caught my interest as I ran into this in the early 2000s soon after buying the 2002, when I bought a set of used porkchops, had them powder-coated candy red, then took them back home only to face this same issue where the pins were too large. I ended up having the porkchops reamed and tapped to the correct size since they were already coated. I don't recall if I even knew at the time what make and model MG the used porkchops came from, because like all of you I assumed they were all the same. Nope

Do you have a drain bung with a magnet in it? Just in case there is still a few bits in there.

Oh yeah! Also Bill Kirchen concert ( one of the quarantine concert series) @ Fur peace ranch w/ Jorma Kaukonen was one of my savior streams during the Covid trainwreck....

Took some serious doses of BillKirchen/HotRodLincoln to pull your Moderator out of the WebFunkBlues . . . Save me, Junior Brown! I'm "white as a ghost !"

Get a good measure on that internal rear wheel spacer! 113 mm ! (Accept no less!)

I am coming up on about a year of ownership now on the Norden 901 (about 4k miles total) and think its a fantastic machine (touring and otherwise). Of course I've made many changes to suit me, but out of the box Husky did a great job. Lots complain about the suspension, and I would agree it's a bit soft out of the box, but in my experience every bike benefits from tuning the suspension for individual needs/styles. The parallel twin is no Italian V, however, at 470ish lbs wet and 105 HP this bike is still plenty of fun in the twisities and great for blasting forest roads. Feel free to PM me if you'd like more specifics on the Husky experience so far. Cheers.

For a V11 Sport, @Lucky Phil speaks highly of the Rizoma mirrors on his V10/11Sport:

The krinkle black looks real good, That could be what happened. Anyway the CA. CHP let me engrave my own numbers and it is now registered. Thank's

LaGrasta, I see you have a black frame 2003. They were more stable from the factory!

‘’…..my surprise at the V11 slow steering, as compared to my V7.” Lagrasta, I only used Michelin sport bike tires on my old silver V11. My understanding is that sport bike tires are more of a triangular profile than sport touring tires. Apparently this helps with turn in. Also I ran the ohlins rear shock, which raised the rear a bit. This should also help turn in. But these red frame bikes have pretty aggressive geometry from the factory. Be careful. I plan on trying 5mm first. There is something else I did to my silver bike that I am also doing to the black one, which is worth mentioning..…..it was a bit controversial back in 2006 or 2007, but it worked great and probably added some stability and slowed the turn in some….. I wonder if anyone here remembers……….

Source: https://www.facebook.com/gabroracing/photos/pcb.5988462924594931/5988451231262767/ "Green is drag, mainly from tyre to roller contact. Red is measured rear wheel power, Black is calculated power at the clutch, Blue is a calculated torque at the clutch." "So this should be the very first indipendent dyno test for the Moto Guzzi newcomer V100 Mandello. She was just out of the break-in period and pulled 112hp on my very conservative dyno, pretty much matching the 115hp declared power. Power delivery is clean with no dips at all, with strong low end, stronger midrange, and nice topend till the 9500rpm rev limiter. Good work Moto Guzzi!"

This is about as "before" as it gets. Day One: August 3 , 2000 . . .

Good tip, threading the pivot pins in from the inside. My old uncle, a plumber taught me to start large threads by turning slowly backwards until you feel them click off the end of thread then go forward because the threads are lined up. Sent from my shoe phone!