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Just coz I stumbled across this thread I thought I'd put in my bodged effort to install an LED unit into the Sfida. Yes I know the original H4 Bosch unit looks better, I could hardly think I'd do a better job than Arturo Magni after all. I was also careful to ensure I could easily change it back, I reckon the stock one could be back in, taking a little over an hour from start to finish. I very rarely ride in the dark now, I wanted an LED unit to improve my visibility to others in daytime conditions. Purchased a Koso Thunderbolt, it has a flat Lo Beam so suitable for left and right side driving. When it comes to 7" headlamps the measurement is a joke, the Bosch OEM unit is >300mm diameter (say 305), the Thunderbolt is 170mm. After a lot of bodging and experimentation and regretting that the idea ever entered my tiny little brain I got something that, sort of, works. I won't bore you with all the details, but in the end I'm reasonably pleased with the result. Was it worth the effort? DEFINATELY NOT. That said it has yet to be tested out on the road and the LED running light on its own will be more visible to other traffic, due to the higher colour temp, than the H4 dip beam I reckon hope.

Languishing, waiting for some TLC later this year to get it back on the road

God, what next... Patent the exhaust note?? Cheers

I’m a big fan of the odyssey, and use it in multiple bikes. But that crowded fitment eats at me, as it can be so tedious to get it in and out. So one of my v11’s has a li-ion just to achieve comfort with the fitment, knowing I could easily access/remove it on the road if needed. not wanting to start yet another a li-ion +/- debate, just saying that I prefer odyssey batteries and use them, but have li-ions in a couple bikes just to make my life easier. (So far no let-downs from the li-ion, but haven’t seen if they’ll last 10 yrs like my odysseys.)

Love your 02 burgundy Sport Can’t wait to get mine out in a few weeks time when spring is here. Mines been hibernating in the garage since November

Cams out. No that anyone is asking, but here is the biggest drawback for me, and probably for some other regular folks: Motorcycle down time. It’s not something that’s likely to be getting done on a Friday night, or even a Saturday, unless you know what shims are currently installed and you have access to the sizes (and special tools) you may need. So it’s a 5 or 6 part event if you have a valve clearance that’s out of spec. 1. Check the clearance. 2. Pull the cam(s) to access and measure the offending shim(s). 3. Calculate the new shim thickness needed. 4. Fetch the new shim from personal stock (hope?) 5. Check your local dealership stock (hope some more?) order them (direct any leftover hope to the delivery timeframe) 6. Collect the new shim(s) and re-install shims and cams. It’s just a longer process, and somewhat out of one’s personal control. Don’t get me wrong, I’d gladly trade convenience for this level of performance on a new bike purchase. Shoot, I’m surely adding a 748 or 749 Ducati to my stable when funds allow. Flaking rockers be damned!

I use Lithium batteries in 5 of my 7 bikes. The Shorai in my V7 lasted something like 7-8 years! Their small size allows them to fit anywhere, and doesn't matter what end is up! Regardless of brand, these batteries all ship with self monitoring overcharge circuitry, very safe. I've never had a problem. I'm adding to this thread now to let you know about my most recent purchase, NOCO. Even prior to opening the box of this 1.5 lbs battery I was so impressed. The packaging is incredible, over the top. Being in marketing, I understand what goes into boxes, manual, etc. I literally saved everything, not sure why, but it was too nice to dump. The battery itself, being used for my Dual Sport spins it right up. I'll be considering this brand again next time I'm in need.

Post 2959 in this thread. https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/moto-guzzi-centenario-v100-mandello.1517279/page-148 Even if you can remove the circlip and slide the finger rocker off to the side on the valves adjacent to the chain run you'd run the risk of dropping them, the clips and the shims down into the guts of the motor. Removing the cams is a piece of piss and at most will be needed every 15,000 miles. I just don't get what all the pissing and moaning is about???

I'll take the liberty of paraphrasing something that lucky phil wrote in the german language forum that I am involved in: He suggested that it might be possible to get at the shims without having to take out the cams. Going by the drawing here on page 46, part #21 (look at the left side of the drawing. They got the numbers 20 and 21 mixed up on the right side. ) https://www.af1racing.com/ProdImages/st3/GUV100.pdf and from here (I linked this further up...) https://www.motociclismo.es/fotos-motor-moto-guzzi-100-mandello_69296_113/11312012.html this photo it looks like it should be possible, with the motor at the compression (combustion) TDC, to remove the c-clip (part #21), pull the shaft that the finger rockers are on, and lift the rockers to get to the shim. Seems plausible to me.

Did you know that the Piaggio Group is currently forcing forum and website owners and professional stores to remove the word Guzzi from their names? This is currently happening in Germany. Latest victim HMB Guzzi. This is done by lawyers hired by the Piaggio Group.

Right? Makes one pine for "some pics from the roads down under " . . . (Something without an exploded view of a clutch and gearbox, if you please. Perhaps a wee "short-cut thru Nayook to Noojee " . . . . )

I’m always envious of those living in warmer climates who can ride all year

The two 'special tools' are a couple of rods, probably 5mm if they follow standard Aprilia/Piaggio practice. You could probably use #5 steel knitting needles cut to size. Really, it's a non issue.

Screws are analog, shims are digital. Similar to the warmth of tubes vs. transistors.

Performing the valve adjustment on my 2-valve BigBlock is something I actually look forward to. Not only is it approachable to an involved owner, physically and mechanically, it reminds me of tuning my string instruments . . . There is a certain irreplaceable "connection" , and the instrument always, then, dances with a delight and appreciation. Like a Golden Retriever let out of the truck by the lake shore. Friends for life. These feelings just never happen picking my Toyota up from a dealer service.

HMB-GUZZI is specialized on Tonti parts. The owner is in progress now changing the name to HMB-MOTO to avoid trouble with Piaggio lawers.

Overheard at a Piaggio board meeting... Lets see now..do a little more R&D, or hire some lawyers?

Yeah I was wrong about Extreme. I have 3 545's and they all say that, even the one that came in the metal jacket. Going by the pictures, mine all have a black case and have structural ribs, like on the website. Al's looks like the metal case in the pic. @al_roethlisbergeris your case plastic or metal?

Consider a "battery basket drop" . . .

The cheap, Chinee LED H4 I tried burnt out at 10,000 miles, not unlike the immensely hot hi-wattage H4s I tried from Sylvania. 3 1/2 years/ 15,000 miles and still very pleased with this plug&play solution: https://vintagecarleds.com/shop/bulbs-only/vcm3-bulbs-only/

You are correct Al, They are very tight. Mine has the "credit card" clearance on both sides at the corners but I wonder if Odyssey cases are held to exact tolerances. With the rubber tray and strap on mine, it doesn't move at all. Paul B

I've got one of those H4 LED replacements on both Guzzis (headlight buckets). They were cited here a few years ago. They're no brighter than OEM. All in all a disappointment. If someone has a better solution that will fit my Sport and EV, great to know. thanks

Just to add if anybody was wanting to install an LED unit that is smaller than the OEM, with a fairing and is foolish enough to want to know how I ended up with the headlamp looking halfway decent, I'm open to explaining it all. Just didn't want to bore the lot of you when it's a V11 forum and that clearly is nothing like a V11

That would be this post: https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/moto-guzzi-centenario-v100-mandello.1517279/page-148#post-46992227 Yes, fairly easy by the looks, but not without a certain amount of fillyfarting around. Good point. I reckon what causes most concern regarding taking the cams out is, firstly, simply not having done the job that often, and secondly and more important, concerns about getting the valve timing messed up when putting things back together. I noticed in the "instructions" posted in that link that there is, for instance, a special tool to lock the crankshaft position, and another one apparently to lock the cam position or something. Probably not hard to acquire or fabricate, perhaps not absolutely neccessary.

Thanks for link, now I see the juicy details…..looks nice and modern to me. For mechanics, it’s not a problem. For non-mechanics it’s the cost, and fear of damaging their new bike. Most of my friends are motorcycle owners, all work on their own bikes to different ability/confidence levels. Half of them would shop this job out, including my father and my best friend since high school. They both own oil head BMWs and adjust those themselves (no tolerance on those, only one correct setting!). I myself shy away from automatic transmissions. I think there is voodoo lurking inside them.

The difference between eating an apple and eating a banana. The damn banana has to be peeled first . . .

I picked up a used pair of PB stands for the V11 but needed to buy these because the rear stand was set up for spools. http://www.pit-bull.com/?model=f0002-001 Bike seems rock solid. Front has standard cradle for fork bottoms. When needing the front lifted I use the BT center stand and tie off the front end to a truss and pull it up with an inline come along. Nothing in the way with that method. Not everybody has a strong truss above their bike though.

Yes, a mate of mine in Melbourne had one for the Kawasaki Z motors (the original, real ones....). Made the job very simple. I fully expect that clever people will make such a tool for the V100 in fairly short order too. Chuck, are you reading this?

@LowRyter in a word, No. They are different sizes. Rob

Yes, it has shims, but no buckets. There are *arms* commonly known as 'Finger Rockers' that pivot beside the valve spring and go between the cam lobe and the top of the valve on which the shim resides. Biggest advantage over buckets I can see is lack of reciprocating mass in the valve train.

plus one for mounting the battery tray from the underside. mines been like that for .......long time I guess

A couple things made me nervous about making that change. One was shock clearance (it's tight down there!) . . . The other was the nuts loosening and the bolts dropping out, then the battery and basket dropping onto the shock sending me halfway to a bad day. Pretty sure I either used NyLoc nuts or LocTite or both.

I saw some pure copper commemorative coins about the size of a silver dollar for a dollar. Thought, "hmmm, I'm tired of fighting those stupid connections.. made a couple of angled brackets. Cheap. (Guzzi content)

Apologies if this is covered somewhere in the preceding 19 pages, but has anyone else had trouble physically fitting the Odyssey PC545 in their battery tray? In the photo below, you can see verrrry thin (thinner than a credit card) strips of plastic wedged between the corners of the battery and the frame to protect both. Those pieces of plastic are in there TIGHT! So the battery "fits" in mine, but it is incredibly tight and the bottom corners of the battery are squeezed up against the frame of the motorcycle. I don't like that for two reasons: 1) I don't really want the paint rubbed off the frame. 2) More importantly, I don't want that kind of stress on the battery body. ...and of course it bothers me that the battery just doesn't quite fit. So the real question is this whether this is some oddity with my motorcycle, or others have had similar experience, and if so what you did? I'm not married to using this battery, so I guess a secondary question is what other brands and models of batteries are working out well for others?