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I have a Coppa Italia. It used to live in germany. It is now enjoying the seaside living in Portugal.

Readying the V11 for brake fluid flush. The clutch bleeder is always the fun part.

This topic has been raised numerous times over the now two decades of this forum's existence, and there have been a handful of examples where owners have tracked down a paint or powder-coating color that approximates the OEM "anodized" red finish on some of the V11 Sport/Lemans models "porkchop" (sideplate) and valve covers. Since neither the porkchops nor the valve covers were actually anodized, it proved difficult to find a finish that would replicate the OEM faux anodized appearance. And unfortunately the finish on the "porkchops" didn't prove very durable, and the finish on the valve covers often faded as well. So the search for an appropriate finish started almost immediately. And BTW, I was told by an anodizing shop that one can't just get those parts anodized due to the type of casting... at least not the valve covers. Well, I recently obtained a powder coating sample from Prismatic Powders, called unsurprisingly "Anodized Red", that looks remarkably close to the original OEM finish before it faded and cracked: https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PPB-5936/anodized-red ANODIZED RED (Item: PPB-5936) I haven't applied this finish to a part yet, but the sample looks very good. So if you are looking for a finish to repair or replicate the OEM V11 "anodized" red color, this might be an option to consider.

Not to steal MartyNZ's reply, but . . . . What would concern me about the heavy tape, likely added as a vibration damper, is heat retention. The relays get hot, especially #5 (fuel/ignition). Under-rated or under-built relays get really hot. Hot = bad = failure prone. Lot's of discussion in this lengthy, buy informative thread: I would think it telling just what relays you find under the tape, @activpop . . .

I hate bleeding brakes and clutch. Even with an Ezibleeder kit I can’t seem to get all the air out. Usually end up with the brake lever spongier than the wife’s home made cakes

The Centauro controls mostly appear to be a simple bolt-on affair other than making and adding a small extension piece for the shifter, noted in the quoted excerpt below. They look to be something in-between the stock V11 Sport high-ish pegs and the very low and forward Motratech controls. The real trick is finding all the Centauro parts. But there are a few bits & pieces on eBay right now, so they do show up used and even NOS. One could probably call some of the prominent MG parts houses and they may have some old sets. And here you go, a write-up from a former forum member: Modifying a 2002+ Le Mans' ergos (obairlann.net)

I have never had a problem bleeding any hydraulic lines on anything that was not malfunctioning or leaking in some way. While doing the job I try to keep my head wrapped around the physics of it and employ consistency and patience. I'm not afraid to use a LOT of fluid to insure a fully refreshed system. Even (and especially) the clutch. Yes I over-do it. I over-do most jobs, it makes me calm, what can I say? I was educated working on vintage bikes with water in reservoirs and mashed potatoes in the calipers. I tried a vacuum bleeder on my BMW that had an ABS system. Having to bleed the abs unit and the slaves I figured I needed it. I ended up trashing the vacuum kit and finished the traditional way. The clutch presents a challenge because of less "push back" or resistance. It takes more patience and finesse. Get comfortable and watch the tube. It's a different flow.

Docc is on to it (yet again); the two problems with the relays which have conflicting solutions; vibration in the sockets and heat dissipation. I tried to think of a heatsink that both held the relays steady and conducted away the heat, but the relays in my bike are all different sizes, so I decided that the problem wasn't big enough to need a solution.

I have the MPH and Jean Marc/Daes Mototech risers, and will be toying with both to see which is the best fit for me. I also have some Centauro and the Motratech foot controls, and similarly will be trying both at some point.

Al, I’ve owned two V11 Sports w Mph riser kits. Your right the original early version had MPH scribed on them, the later has the Eagle which I prefer. Docc/Al, when Kale & I ride down to Spring SSR, you will be able to see both V11 Sports and riser kits.

Thanks, I now have two different bar-riser and foot-control options to evaluate and mix & match to hopefully find a good geometry for me I had a set of the MPH risers many years ago, and actually sold them a few years back, but they were an incomplete set with just the risers alone. This set grabbed my attention because they came with the brake & clutch lines, instructions, and I guess are a later batch that have the MG eagle engraving which makes them look OEM Regardless of which bar riser set I use, I also likely needed the lines, so this was good timing.

Probably much less for a horse! The U.S Army once had a field manual for executions. In quintessential Army form, there was a depiction of a circle on white paper for firing squads. For hangings, a "drop chart" listed various possible weights of the prospective condemned withcorresponding feet to drop. Adhering to the guidance ensured breaking the perps' neck without decapitating heads! Behind every such rule there is almost always a "bad example." Bill

I remember back in the '90's driving by the track and seeing this guy on the street the day before the "500". I said, if the cops are this cool, this is the place to party. My brother and I slept in our car parked on the street before the big race. I think the revelry stopped about 3am and then the bomb goes off at 5 to alert race fans that track parking opens up. IIRC the City police as well as the Sheriff's Dept each HAD a drill team. This was one of the coolest things seeing them to all kinds of precision riding before the start of the Indy 500. The last time I saw them was in 2000. Since then the Motorcycle Drill team has been disbanded- at least it's not there for the big race.

I was in Cuba about 13 years ago and there were police officers on Moto Guzzi Nevadas 750 at the time. photo: Wikipedia

Also installed Joe Kenny head guards, they look good against the patina'd Rosso valve covers..

Took the DB killers out of the Mivvs today, she is woke now , wow, I like the engine braking almost as much as acceleration. She ain't stock now..... Plus I have an oil cooler guard, in silver I've only owned this bike about a year & a half...

Ha, well spotted @ScuRoo Both horses are fitted with a type of martingale. Also called a "tiedown" or a "head check". It's used to discourage head raising, which changes the angle of the pressure of the bit. If a horse is spooked or ornery, it might charge off with head raised, becoming dangerous and difficult to stop. Also stops the horse’s head from smacking the rider in the face. I imagine that the big knot has enough weight to warn the horse that the limit is approaching. See a pic of the Delaware police using another variation.

Tonight: Tank back off, air box back off, new intake manifold boots, removed the K&N air filter and put a new stock UFI paper filter in. Valve covers off and set the clearance looser, to what was specified on the swing arm (.015mm in, .20mm ex). Or .006 and .008 inch.

Well, they kind of have to don't they? All that weight...

I asked a buddy of mine "does Harley do anything good" ? He said "they made the best sidestand in the business" !

NZ cops are open to other transport options too.

The NZ cops have several models on the road. BMW R1200RT, Honda ST1300, Yamaha FJR1300 & MT09 Tracer. No HDs, but they do have John Deere Gator & New Holland Tractors in police livery.

I didn't actively do anything to the bike, but I bought something. An apparently new set of valves, valve guides still in the plastic packaging, and valve springs, probably also new. The vendor is a well known Guzzi tuner from Austria who has been in retirement for the last couple of years and is obviously clearing out his workshop. An absolutely reliable source. I thought €150,- was ok, especially considering some of the bits are apparently no longer available.

To updated:

(Edited 06 August 2010 - 05:36 AM): If you are having trouble with your relays. Some of the problems could be due to a faulty contact in the base. The attached drawing shows how to remove the connectors from the base so they can be inspected or tightened by pinching with a pair of pliers. If you need to replace them the brass connectors are standard items that can be purchased at any good automotive supply store. I highly recommend dipping your relay pins in vaseline, this will help prevent corrosion and also makes it easier to get the relays in and out. The other drawing shows how you can add LEDs to the relay bases as a troubleshooting aid, I did this with mine and find it very useful. The LEDs are wired to contact 87 so that they indicate when the relay contacts are closed, not just when the coil is energized. Should you decide to go this route, there's a cross piece in the plastic that will make the drill wander, if you make a metal template for drilling the 1/8 hole they will all end up in the same place, not like mine. Here's a picture of the end result http://www.v11lemans...attach_id=10124 Hope this is of interest Roy (edit): updated drawings: See Post # 15 of this thread below:

Updated drawings: Relay Base Repair.pdf Relay Base LEDs.pdf