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cold air without snow - always great fun with the V11

The Grateful Dead aren't the best at what they do. They're the only ones who do what they do. Kinda how I feel about Moto Guzzi. Boomer musing of the day Carry on.

I have recently mounted the 36th rear (26th front) tire to mySport. Other than a couple pure sport tires (including the dubious Pirelli Dragon Corsa that the Sport was delivered with new) tires of whatever brand and whatever version last +/- about 10% of each other for me. I am admittedly hard on tires and also not willing to risk my backside to get the last couple hundred miles (~5%) out of an aging tire. Even paying upwards of $300US for a new tire, mounted, that is trying to squeeze the last $15 out of a replaceable component that I am trusting life and limb to.

This topic has been raised numerous times over the now two decades of this forum's existence, and there have been a handful of examples where owners have tracked down a paint or powder-coating color that approximates the OEM "anodized" red finish on some of the V11 Sport/Lemans models "porkchop" (sideplate) and valve covers. Since neither the porkchops nor the valve covers were actually anodized, it proved difficult to find a finish that would replicate the OEM faux anodized appearance. And unfortunately the finish on the "porkchops" didn't prove very durable, and the finish on the valve covers often faded as well. So the search for an appropriate finish started almost immediately. And BTW, I was told by an anodizing shop that one can't just get those parts anodized due to the type of casting... at least not the valve covers. Well, I recently obtained a powder coating sample from Prismatic Powders, called unsurprisingly "Anodized Red", that looks remarkably close to the original OEM finish before it faded and cracked: https://www.prismaticpowders.com/shop/powder-coating-colors/PPB-5936/anodized-red ANODIZED RED (Item: PPB-5936) I haven't applied this finish to a part yet, but the sample looks very good. So if you are looking for a finish to repair or replicate the OEM V11 "anodized" red color, this might be an option to consider.

Lift the fuse block from its isolation mounts and be certain the hidden spade connectors under fuses 1 and 2 are tight and functional. (Also, cycle the Run Switch and the Ignition Switch a few times while trying to start.)

I forgot you had changed the early Sport's 4,5" rim to the later 5,5". With my stiffer springs (front and rear), along with higher rear ride height from the Öhlins shock, I found my forks just right at 5mm above the clamp. Yet, all of the variables bear upon one another . . . That looks almost exactly right! The last time I averaged the actual mileages (22 rear and 13 front) the mileage averaged 3538 rear/4951 front. Again, I am hard on tires with my maniacal jackrabbit riding style always rowing the gearbox and ripping around these curvy roads. But, man, is it ever fun! I suppose I've run five or six different Pirelli (Dragon, Diablo, Angel, GT in both corsa and strada variants), several different Dunlop, Michelin, and a couple Bridgestone types. I've learned that if I don't "like" a tire, no problem: it will be gone soon! I switched my RedFrame/ 4.5" rim to a 160 early on. I felt that the 170 was "pinched" to the smaller rim enough to reduce the roundness of the profile affecting both handling and reducing tire life.

I find that little 170 rear on the red frame doesn't last that long. It used up the last Michelin I ever purchased in less than 4k miles. Given that, I thought Dunlops for third less seemed the way to go.

"Subjective" [observation] is used when there is not a predescribed testmethod that would result in measurable repeatable values(objective method). I think something like feedback is difficult to capture in an objective sense.

It's winter here my friends. Not riding my V-11, rather my MXZ. Put 144 miles on this weekend in some crisp, clean and sunny, cold air. .

The question needs to go to Chuck directly, but I got the impression he might still have a couple.

This is very useful to know (anodized red). If one is trying to match Legnano Green, here is data I collected for it (from others research), as I have a 2010 V7 in this color. Greenie Paint Code Using all of my super Spidey senses, including deductive skills worthy of Sherlock Holmes' smarter older brother, I present to the Moto Guzzi community the paint code for the weird greenish gold color found on the V7 Café known alternately as "Legnano Green" or "Solaris Yellow": (drum roll please) Nissan paint code ER4. Long story short, I had a warranty repair done to my gas tank due to the bike being delivered with the right side horn rotated up so high that, thanks to normal engine vibrations, some paint got rubbed off. Thinking ahead, I asked the dealer to provide a bottle of touch-up paint and the paint code for future reference. The paint code from Moto Guzzi was unobtainium, so the dealer, Steel Horse Classics, used a professional auto body shop who matched the paint perfectly. When it was all done I got a small bottle of paint with ER4 written on it. My first search for ER4 turned up somthing like 1996 Nissan Gold. Since I don't know anything at all about automotive paint codes, my first reaction was "what? - nah! - must be some mistake". I have since learned that ER4 was likely never used on any US market Nissan car and is listed at various web sites only under the years 1996, 95-97, and 98-99 (for the Nissan Micra). The color description on these sites is listed as any one of the following: Gold, Gold Pearl, Yellow, Yellow Olive, Yellow Olive Effect, and finally my favorite, Sumatra Yellow Metallic. Solaris Yellow or Legnano Green is never mentioned anywhere. I found a US based outfit (automotivetouchup.com) that would supply a touch up bottle of ER4 and I did a comparision with the bottle I received from the dealer. I have concluded that they are one and the same color. The bottle I received from automotivetouchup.com was way to thinned out for proper use as a touch-up paint, so I had to apply multiple coats to get proper color density. I think that due to all the color elements in this paint, use for touch-ups will probably always be less than satisfactory unless it is professionally sprayed on. Anyway, just my small contribution to the Guzzi pool of knowledge and the three or four people out there who may find this information useful!

3500m seems like an average for rear. 4900m front = NEWER for an V11. BUT Pirelli Scorpion trail 2 on the Multistrada = very impressed. 8600km last year, and probably 2000km left. Secure feeling to the edge. Cheers Tom.

Yes, that is what I did, but I also changed to Conti RA3. So now I do not really have a good comparison. The handling improved a lot. My '99 Redframe was modified with a 5,5" rear rim and that one I was riding with the T32 (120/70R17 180/55R17). That handles even better. This is why I asked for letting the fork come for 15mm or so through the triple clamp. This would compensate that raking that Guzzi did in the Longframe.

The Dunlops have a stiff sidewall. You may or may not like that.. Gimme a Conti.

After a quick read, some (slow) reflection, it seems the Battlax T32 Sport Touring aced it over almost all the other brands save for the Dunlop Roadsmart 3. One parameter the test lacks, is longevity and autonomy. How do those tires retain the rated efficiency over time? I am on my second set of Michelin Road 5 2CT, and I rode the whole of the Motorcycle Grand Tour of Texas 2022 on them. I wanted to check the Road 6 this year, but for lack of availability, I had to settle again for the Road 5. When I read the specific report on the Michelin Road 5, I find some elements I concur with, others I don't have that experience of the lack of progressiveness in cornering. When I did the twisted sisters last year, which are a mix of tights and more opened corners, I did not have to fight to lean the bike. It also may come from how I approach curves. I tend to use the rear brake; I believe the tester did not. I am going to have to check the Battlax T32 at some point... after I check the Michelin Road 6. It is interesting how some of the rider's reviews for those tested tires do not reflect the data presented in this UTAC report. I also noted the author of the report uses the word "subjective" several times.

Thanks for bringing up this topic; UTAC used to based in Monthlery France, where I happened to do my High School. UTAC stands for Union Technique de l'Automobile et du Cycle. Monthlery has a racing track where Grand-Prix F1 and Motorcycle took place when I was a kid. While in Monthlery, we used to go to the track to watch cars while they were being tested, and spoke with the UTAC technicians. UTAC has grown and has an international footprint today. However, the headquarters are still based at the Monthlery racing track like they were in the 60's when I was there. The track is no longer certified for racing, but it is used for numerous events of all kinds for cars and motorcycles. UTAC is the company you would use to do all your testing including certification. They can be trusted for impartiality, even if the test was paid for by Bridgestone; UTAC is a private for profit company. Glossary: the report mentions "on the ring"; the "RING" is an oval with banked curves. The Monthlery circuit is not where they did the test in the report. The test was conducted at Bridgestone Italian tracks. As you can see in this very old diagram made by UTAC (look at the telephone numbers with only two and three digits), initially the track was long; 7.765 miles when you include what is described as "boucles des Biscornes (Biscornes Loop). Look at the two videos herewith: the one on motorbike is done on the Biscornes Loop. The second video is shot on the oval. As pointed out in the second video, during tests, they run the oval counterclockwise. For races, clockwise, and they omit the Biscornes loop. They take the short cut turn at "The two bridges". I have driven on the Biscornes loop, not with a motorcycle though. The track is very representative of all you find on road. The oval is also very bumpy, because with time, it has degraded. This is the reason why they have added so many chicanes to prevent drivers to go too fast.

Then you can see 12 rubber pucks in recesses in the wheel hub. Some people grease the recesses and the non-metallic ring. I coated these with moly dry lube spray. You can see that I fitted only half of the pucks in my bike, and they were drilled to be more squishy. As you assemble, check that the O-ring is good, and there is wheel bearing grease on the spline plate bore. Before you refit the wheel, put a good layer of spline grease like Staburags NBU 30 PTM on the splines at the connection to the bevel box.

I'd say "don't disassemble the wheel & cush assembly" The tire can be changed as it is. Also don't lose the bush that goes on the axle between the wheel and the bevel box. It's needed to get bearing preloads right. If you're like me and can't help pulling it apart, then the following pictures may help. The retaining plate screws are likely to be frozen. Heat and penetrating oil are your friends. How hot, you ask? Well the rear disk can be red hot without other damage, but 60°C would be safe. Then you can lift the splined plate out.

I don't know if this is any help, but I found this image:

Well, then, I owe you another one, mate . . . I just cannot stress enough how the V11 just devours this cool, dry air. While the cylinders ring like trumpets at the gates of heaven . . .

Alright, she doesn't just live on that dais with the footlights . . . I love these old train stations. Makes me feel kind of bold and enduring to be stopping by with a rare locomotive on the route . . .

Installed a "indestructible" Scud shift spring, bearing and Lucky Phil Extender yesterday in friends '02 V11 Lemans (with 70K miles on it). He was very excited for the improvements and once the case sealant sets up, will fill/adjust and test run. I told him he is now officially a member of the very exclusive V11 "not-so-secret" mod club now. Once again, continuing THANKS! to all for the detailed photos, discussion and collaboration in upgrading another iconic machine. (This was the 2nd tranny I have done the spring/bearing on and it all came back to me very quickly. I have one extender and 2 spare springs left, which are still pending install on my virgin champagne '02 LeMans. But I can say that I do feel "qualified" now with the improvement process).