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Yes, it is true of some of us olds here in Connecticut. We've been schooled by the migratory Official Geriatric Driving School Manual of Florida; Chapter 4: engage your turn signal (left or right side, it does not matter) when you leave the house in the morning. The gentle clicking sound is a soothing balm that will counter the annoying bleat of the chorus of horns that for no reason follow you to the smorgasbord restaurant. Doubly true on a motorcycle where this built-in 'keep 'em guessing' feature is not interfered with by an infuriating tendency for self-cancelling. The devil is a vigilant little bitch.

Hi, @igor! I am not sure what you mean by the "plastic cap" and "second bolt." Here is a view of the mechanism looking from the middle of the bike outward with the swingarm removed (for reference, only). Notice the lock nut on the pivot blot. This must be removed to unscrew the pivot bolt from the frame tab to clean and grease. See, also, the connecting rod and its Heim/ "rose" joints. These should be inspected, lubricated and tight, including the lock nuts on the rod. Adjust the rod length to get the extension arm of the foot lever and the arm on the gearbox input shaft parallel. This is best achieved with the starter off. (Remove the battery negative cable first!) Make sure the arm on the gearbox is also pinched tight. The position of this arm (above on the left, behind the starter) and the length of the connecting rod can be adjusted to ensure the foot lever and entire mechanism swings freely up and down, in every gear, without striking the frame side plate or fouling the backside of the starter. The pivot bolt is screwed into the frame tab tightly enough to allow movement, but limit too much play. The pivot bolt lock nut is then used to fix the pivot bolt in that ideal position. I found that a small "shim" between the foot lever and frame tab helped: Once fully assembled, with the starter in place, check again that the entire mechanism moves freely in every gear without fouling anywhere in the up- and down-swings.

On my last ride , I was about 20 mi. away when my bike started to run bad and die . I KNEW it had plenty of fuel until I removed the fuel cap to find a blend of vapors and air w/just a little fuel . I got real good at stopping and leaning over about 4 Xs before reaching home base . Trust me , if it acts like it is running out of fuel , it IS running out of fuel.

Very rare to see one that complete and original. Down to the original reflectors and goofy secondary air pump. Even the tail cowl looks intact. (These tend to crack at the mounting points.) As @gstallons said, these languished on showroom floors with asking prices upwards of $4,000US when the 4 cylinder CBR600 "Hurricane" sitting next to it was about the same money. I found mine at a dealer about an hour from me, sitting on his floor for nearly two years. Over 52,000 miles now and still a doll. Met some of my best buds and lifelong friends through the GB500 . . .

Too late, I started the Jay Leno account.

Wheels are forged OZ. Ghezzi-Brian had a batch made and I got a good deal on them. Much lighter than OEM and together with Öhlins goodies it improved handling very much!

Problem solved. Adjustor on clutch lever had backed itself in blocking holes in base of clutch fluid reservoir

I just copy/pasted url https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sW_JjCSZAxQ&t=2s and given a choice at the bottom to display as text only which I did here. when I don't choose text it automatically posts as video.

Pretty sure the engine and state of tune are the same, but The GB has much better bodywork! Makes it look more like something out of the ole dart rather than Japan.

Maybe I'll create an account at "EwenMacgregor" and make a lot of positive comments to run up the price and excitement even further Just kidding

If you had the funds to invest in a new old stock crate bike to get running, you would probably have a talented Moto Guzzi motorcycle mechanic to set it up correctly. My vote would be to get the bike running to tip top shape and ride it, sort of the same as Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum . Motorcycles are not built to be caged in boxes their whole life.

I'm waiting for one still in the crate...

Nice bike, but sky high price.

Yup, I have heard about tank swell. I had a 2007 Norge from new and never experienced that malady, a friend here did with a 2010-ish V7 II or III. Not pleasant. Lets go with the lift the tank slightly and call it good. But, I will try removing the seat latch first.

I haven't had my tank off yet, but... Here is a workshop manual for multiple V11 models. On page 540 of the document it refers to removing the tank. Seems like the bolt at the back and the fuel lines are the only things that have to be removed. https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Regarding the fuel lines: They are under pressure. As I wrote, I haven't done it yet, but I've had some good advice regarding them. The trick is to relieve the pressure before you try and disconnect the couplings. To do this, disconnect the electricity to the fuel pump and start the bike. Let it run until it runs out of fuel, and then there is no more pressure in the fuel lines, and the (somewhat fragile) couplings are much easier to disconnect. But I see that docc wrote that you shouldn't have to remove the tank.

Simply releasing the rear tank bolt and chocking up the back of the tank should be enough to slip the side covers out without removing the tank. Shouldn't be necessary to get to the main ground on the back of the gearbox on the right. Remove the seat latch lock and you will find the ground under a bolt on the back of the gearbox. Here is a view from behind for reference:

Hi Igor. Just for your information, to avoid possible confusion: The green lever visible in docc's first picure is not standard. It is one of these: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19580-lucky-phil-extender-mod/ I believe the silver coloured lever in the second picture is the standard part.

Yup, got the one of these in the stable as well. In fact, it's my second (sold the first). This one however is the actual Cycle World feature bike! http://www.champsclock.com/gb500hu.htm

Beginning to see a lot of posts on Facebook about new owners and others checking out the V100 in dealerships. So I expect we'll soon start to see even more owner reviews, feedback, and accessories/aftermaket... and maybe a dedicated forum for the model at some point It does seem very popular so far, many stating that it looks even better in person than in photos.

Wow, this mileage may rival @docc The owner doesn't state a price, and it's not entirely clear if it is actually for sale or if he is just sharing information about the bike. But it sounds like it is for sale? https://www.facebook.com/groups/129462630430089/permalink/6136886696354289/

The newest cars have a feature that vibrates and firms the steering wheel if you attempt to change lane when the adjacent lane is not clear and you omitted to check your mirrors, or the other vehicle is in your blind spot. When I took my car driving test, forgetting to use your turn indicator only once implied a retest. Here in Texas, I understand why drivers don't use it; If you indicate your intention to change lane, the driver in the destination lane will accelerate to close the gap in order to impede the maneuver. It makes sense to hide your intentions to prevent any negative reaction. I had once a driver on my left, who was in the "continue straight" lane, rolling down his window to politely ask if I could let him pass in front of me, in the right turn only lane. I answered you just had to put on your turn indicator, and I would have let you. His answer was: oh! I see; you are not from Texas then....

@al_roethlisberger I am the one from Maine that contacted Kim at MPH... and I am not yet certain whether this LeMans requires the kit, still troubleshooting... I'd like to get back to the initial subject. Any opinion about whether the "tapping the starter" routine indicates a certain condition or state of the starter..? Thanks, Rob

Just because I'm a terrible attention whore but it does look very nice, especially in the sun! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52767196911_28f284759f_b.jpg

No need to take of svingarm, Doc said for reference only. Cheers Tom.

Using the "link" function [--] will display the link, while pasting the URL directly into the reply window displays the video preview.

I bought mine from Diesel . He lives around Georgetown/Frankfort area . He bought them from Rossopuro (I think) and didn't have them just a few weeks , crash & burned his bike , listed them on this site and I bought them in a few hours ! Don't remember what he did w/the rest of the bike ? Now , these things do look this righteous . Trust me . They sre Alpina wheels marketed through Rossopuro . If Rossopuro does not respond , contact Alpina . Be ready to press "buy it now" 1 You will not regret it. Forgive my spelling . I am doing this w/o cheaters

https://www.motobatt.com/en/product/mb-t

If it were the clutch safety switch, or its nefarious "bullet connectors", there would not be a peep when the starter button is thumbed. "Locked out." I have seen shifted starter magnets that would still allow the starter to turn, although reluctantly. I think you're still looking at a series of flaky connections. Those grounds are critical so that the start current doesn't try to find its way back through the harness. If the battery is an Odyssey PC545 (OEM), then it should be properly "conditioned" at 12.65 volts (12.84 is 100%). If it drops below 10 volts when the starter tries to engage, it may be toast. There is a date code on it if it's a PC545. (What kind of battery is it?) edit: It occurs to me for you to put a jump wire on the starter solenoid and touch it to the battery positive. MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN the bike is in neutral, ignition off. Just looking for the starter to spin. If it does, then it is not the starter or the battery, but "things" in between.

I gotta Moto Guzzi Gree sew With diamond coated flatties Got a sump full of mystery And I ain’t got cams No, I ain’t got cams ~ Yardbikes with Epic Clappedout

My warning lamp begins dim, then over the course of 5-15 miles goes on and off with brake usage, then stays on. Unfortunately it stays lit at 1/2 tank. Since I have the tiny tank, that's about 100 miles. Worth mentioning here that since my Joe's cam gears and new plug caps I'm pushing 50mpg.

Thought I posted to this thread- oopsie. I have a new spare on the shelf and an entire shaft assembly as well. One of these days I'm going to get up to Orlando with it and get a quote on having CV shafts made.

I'm thinking it's that flukey kill switch. (designed by George Jetson)

No, operator error at the other end, I think. The picture is here: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52767196911_28f284759f_b.jpg don't know what he's on about though. It's only a Griso....

Because it's more.

Because it's German... Seriously, though: "Less is more" can also be translated as "Weniger ist Mehr", und that is actually the literal translation, and is in common use as a saying exactly as it is in English. In the sense of the meaning of "In der Beschränkung zeigt sich der Meister" (literally "in the limitation shows himself the master") one might say in English "The skill of the master is evident in his understatement". As far as the apparently incomprehensively long words in German go generally, that is due to the grammatical rules of the language. Words are joined together to form the names of things, instead of using several seperate words. For instance: drill press = Standbohrmaschine, literally "standing drill mashine" = stand bohr maschine lathe = Drehbank, literally "turn bench" = dreh bank and so on. So those words that go on for ever are actually several words shoved together.

Geez, if "less is more", why is the German phrase so insanely long?!?

Believe it or not, but this is how it looks now... Only the frame, gearbox and drive-shaft are still original

Drat, I'm slipping up: should have called this post: 'What Time Is It? It's 20 years past 2003.' If you were there, you were there

Flirting with maximum usable range reminds me to point out the "tip-slosh" method of splashing a bit of the fuel trapped on the right side of the tank over into the left with the fuel tap. This is a strenuous, roadside maneuver having sputtered out of fuel. Standing beside the left side of the bike, it is leaned as far left as strength will allow and then "dipped" abruptly to slosh fuel over to the left. Because the closed loop returns unused fuel to the right side fuel trap, I typically then ride like my hair is on fire toward the nearest fuel station

I am shocked to find out there are still people using their turn indicators; maybe only in Connecticut then? My experience is that it seems to be superfluous for most drivers, nowadays....

Docc: you gift wisdom about the most intricate details of these bikes. And it don't seem like you're breaking a sweat floating your salve to the surface, not that sweat matters. Long practicing surgeons must also come to know every detail of those in their care. I've appreciated your generous contributions in what goes on here. +Several Honda 500's have been offered on bring a trailer. One just posted last week. Good to see them out and about.

Fuel pumps are cooled by fuel, so running them without fuel frequently is not great, certainly for an extended period. But one doesn't need to run them long after the fuel runs out. Fuel pumps are surely designed to survive running without fuel flow for a reasonable amount of time, such as when people run out of gas, otherwise we would see huge failure rates of pumps. Note: I am neither a fuel pump engineer nor manufacturer, so that is my opinion and understanding.

If the Yardbirds doesn't date us, J.C. Whitney certainly does!