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The V11 came out of hibernation yesterday and took a few shots. Took this YT video also with some gratuitous blipping. No motorcycle sounds better to my ears.

It is worth what someone else will pay is what I use to rationalize almost everything on BaT. 😂 Some of my brother's friends who are deeper into the car world half-jokingly describe BaT as the money laundering and fantasy valuation site!🤞😁

I owe you guys an update after you kindly offered advice. I got a 2v 1200 Sport, in the end, because it was the best value from a seller who seemed reasonable. Decision more with head than heart to be honest. One day a good V11 will come along... First impressions: does this weigh more than my Subaru? Quite possibly. And yet it just works so well on the road! Even on bumpy country back roads, which should not really be it's natural habitat, it is really comfortable. Soaks up the bumps as well as my Tiger, which is a surprise. Torque is, of course, fantastic. Previous owner had fitted Maxxis tyres, though, and they have to go. Accelerating out of a roundabout on a damp road had the rear spinning and starting to go sideways. Entertaining, I suppose, but bound to end badly sooner or later. Not a fault of the bike, though. The only thing I don't like about the bike is the handlebars. To clear the tank on full lock, they have to be positioned with the grips pretty much straight - like superbike bars - which is uncomfortable with the stretch to the bars. I don't mind a stretch, but IMHO the grips need to be angled back for that to work. Also the bars a wide (760mm) which is strange with the stretch; more what you would expect with an upright riding position. Right now I have 20mm bar risers (SW Motech) that give enough tank clearance to let me rotate the bars to a more reasonable position, but without making the riding position too upright. I will be trying to find bars that are a bit narrower and/or with the grips angled back some more (but not much higher than stock) Oh,and the clutch biting point is way too far from the grip. Only about 1/4 of the lever travel is useful :-/ Still very happy with it, just niggles to fix... Thanks again

I found a more comprehensive read about the TT650 and TT650 Baja; https://www.odd-bike.com/2014/04/moto-guzzi-v-twin-off-roaders.html I must admit that I had never heard about the 1000 QUOTA, nor about the NTX (not the Stelvio NTX obviously.

There is a bloke in the German forum that has the following in his signature: "If God had meant motorcycles to be clean, there would be detergent in the rain".

OK, but you have to wait for me to clean it

But as I recall the system on the Griso measures resistance at each turn signal and if it measure too much or too little resistance it flags it as a problem. It could be anything from a failing bulb to dirty contacts at the bulb to a bulb of the wrong wattage. As an example, it often has issues when people replace their turn signals with LED turn signals. The LED signals usually don't have the correct resistance to mimic the stock bulbs. Or the system that checks for bad bulbs at the turn signals is itself having issues.

Excellent feedback - my Scura R came Ohlins equipped I credit forum advice here from Pete years ago to concentrate on suspension (before engine fiddling) to prompting a session with Perry (https://leaskracing.co.uk/perryleask/) when he was at HM Racing. Best ROI imo having suspension improved by a top notch professional - lightening the rotational mass would be next level tier But then I ask myself - am I just getting sucked in too deep by the air cooled porker? Sitting…

> From DigiKey, regarding Switching versus Carrying current: • Maximum Switching CurrentThe maximum current which can safely beswitched by the contacts. AC and DCcurrent maximums may differ.• Maximum Carrying CurrentThe maximum current which after closingor prior to opening, the contacts cansafely pass without being subject totemperature rise in excess of their designlimit, or the design limit of othertemperature sensitive components in therelay (coil, springs, insulation, etc.). Thisvalue is usually in excess of the maximumswitching current. >From Pickering, regarding current (amperage): Switch Current When a relay is hot switched, the switch current is the maximum current that the relay can sustain when being opened or closed and not sustain contact damage. Carry Current If a relay's contacts are already closed, the relay may be able to sustain a higher current than the switch current. This is called the carry current. The carry current is normally limited by contact resistance, which causes the contacts to heat up. When a relay is carrying a current greater than the switch current, the relay must not be opened until the current is reduced.

Found a couple of useful (I think) documents.... https://www.pickeringtest.com/de-de/kb/hardware-topics/relay-reliability/switching-and-relay-specifications https://media.digikey.com/pdf/other related documents/panasonic other doc/small signal relay techincal info.pdf

Maybe the "How to" section may help. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20492-fork-seal-clip-removal-how/ Art

yeah, my blinker relay is generally just tossed under there as well. The OEM rubber sleeve is old and dry so I discarded it. Just tuck it away and forget about it, no harm. #zipties

So ! Every rich toy is in that category .

aoudiomick Don’t worry about the relays, Omron works. It’s the rest of the electrical Luigi you need to take care of . Cheers Tom.

Love F9's content, even though sometimes he comes off as being full of himself 😏. "Look at the color scemes" works better with the new 650 cruiser for me!

It would be helpful if the datasheet language and ratings were standardized between manufacturers, but they are obviously not. I remember learning the distinction between the higher "inrush current" rating and the more desirable "continuous current" rating. This helped explain why some seemingly high rated relays were really just typical 10/20 rated Micro-ISO.

Al, Well, the steel subframe socket head screws that go into the steel spine frame are 10mm x 1.5 and have a "standard torque value" of 33-37 lb.ft. (45-50nm) according to the V11 Lemans shop manual B4,B12. The two 12mm x 1.75 steel socket head screws that fasten through the subframe and into the aluminum cam chain cover torque value was not in the shop manual, that I could find. According to a publication by Dodgeram/Allpar forum and Kohler Service Manual cv17-750, General Torque Values indicates the torque to be 41-45 lb.ft (56-61nm). So, unless someone chimes in to correct me, those are the values I'm going with. Art

Re: Relays - Isn't the "Contact Rating" of 35/20 for the inrush current and the "Switching Current" the continuous load rating? In that case, you have relays rated 20/10. Re: Fuses - the #8 fuse was used on the early V11 for the Electric Fuel Tap, unused position with Manual Fuel Tap V11. Take a close look at your #3 green 30 amp fuse. Are there heat signs of melting and the case starting to spread? Re: Battery - I've never seen a battery turned sideways in a V11. It looks like that necessitates some "extensions" of the wiring, including main cables? Is that an unshielded positive junction behind the battery on the right of the bike?

A good deal is when both parties are happy with the sale. I will stay out of the "value" of this bike .

I fiddle with my sat-nav far too much to mount it on the brake/throttle side. Garmin even designed their motorcycle units to operate with the left hand.

To honor these beginnings, one must know of Claudio Torri . . . http://www.parisdakar.it/claudio-torri-dakar-1985/#/?playlistId=0&videoId=0 https://www.facebook.com/MotoGuzzi/videos/my-dakars-with-moto-guzzi/323475908644789/

That has been a gripe of some riders, all the paved run off around the track has led to some racers being less careful about it. The minimum penalty for blowing a corner is not always what it used to be

Yeah, not much flywheel in that one. Luverly.

I reckon I've read something about the Baja model somewhere, but can't remember much of it. I believe it was intended and/or used in a Paris-Daker attempt without all that much success. This site is not 100% reliable, but here are entries for the TT and the Baja. The text is the same for both, and appears to relate to the TT rather than the Baja. There are, however, two photos on the Baja page that are visibly different to the standard TT. https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/moto guzzi/moto_guzzi_v65tt 84.htm https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/moto guzzi/moto_guzzi_v65tt_baja 84.htm Following the TT, there was also the NTX 650 and NTX 750. I gather that they were both better than the TT in a number of respects, but don't know the details.

Approximately 2 years later...

Not really relevant, but interesting: https://waterburyelectronic.com/2020/10/cit-relay-switch-acquires-picker-components/ I had never heard of Picker or CIT relays before this thread BTW Are they a quality make?

Just bought a Royal Enfield Scram 411 today. Picking it up Saturday.

Very much so docc. I love the style of the classic standard. So many iterations to choose from. When I'm tempted with something new, I look back at mine and wonder what's the point in chasing what I already have. Early concept pic, some things have changed. it has mufflers now

I suspect your W650 is much like having a Honda GB500. Fun, interesting, reliable and my GB has kept me from buying lots (and lots) of other bikes . . .

I'm kinda with the reviewer. No real preference. I prefer the RE motor concept 270* crank, I'll bet it sounds lovely and I love twins. I'm not in love with the look however, as much as I am the BSA. Don't care for the BSA radiator but it's an advancement I'm wiling to accept. The concept of smallish/retro/standard is the only point I can consider and address, and that puts the BSA in front for me... I like that they embraced their Arms heritage coming back to market. TBH my interest in bikes in that category is firmly in the vintage originals. If I were to cave and opt for reliability and newness I'd go for a used W650 or even a new W800. For now my 1980 XS650 is occupying that space nicely.

Gots them too. Oldest rider award.. Yeah, it's stylish. Looks and sounds a lot like bikes I rode as a kid without the constant hassle.. very pleasant to ride. Slowly.

I recently returned from a moto tour in the Himalayas. 17 days on rented R.E. Himalayan Scram 411. The Scram (scrambler) is a small front wheel 19' vs. 21' version of the Himalayan with shorter seat and suspension. We did over 700 miles including 3 days of HARD off pavement riding. Overall, I was very impressed with the R.E. Not much power on tap, but enough to get the job done. I found the suspension to be very good considering what the roads threw at it, compliant and able to absorb a lot of bumps without losing feel. Zero reliabliltiy issues. Able to absorb minor crash damage, as everyone on the trip dropped at least once. Except for the stock crash bars, they fold up like a cheap suit. At least they also fold back into place like a cheap suit. Put some good skid plates and crash bars and a decent luggage system on and I'd seriously consider it for an ADV tourer.

To get a wire ring out, use a flat blade screwdriver to push the end DOWN out of the groove 1st. Pushing down is much easier than trying to pry up. Once down, slip a flat feeler gauge under the tip of the wire, then slide the end up using a hook or flat blade. Be ready when it pops out.