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One thing being overlooked here is that the various bevelboxes are different and most 'Vent' differently. On Loops, Tonti's and the Quota the pinion and its bearings aren't sealed. This means that theoretically the air in the box will vent through the bearings and into the swingarm and thence through the splines of the shaft and universal joint into the UJ housing where any 'Pressure' will simply cause the boot between the swingarm and gearbox to swell a bit. There is also that the extra volume of the swingarm etc. means that the pressure rise is proportionally low. We'll come back to this. On the early Spineframes, Daytonas, Sport 1100's and Centy's what was essentially the same bevelbox was used but due to the shaft not being enclosed the pinion was sealed. On these boxes though the factory never fitted a breather and consequently seal failures due to pressurisation issues are fairly common, not helped by the sealing surface at the pinion being exposed to water, grime and not being rust proofed in any way! When the V11 series arrived they'd had enough time to have a think about it and coupled with changed internal ratios in both gear and bevelbox the sealing mechanism and pinion bearings were redesigned and improved and a breather was added to the bevelbox that was also enlarged to take more oil and greater volume. One of the biggest problems with the V11 series breather set ups is actually on the gearbox where some genius in the design department put it in the centreline of the gearbox directly in line with the spray line from the rear tyre when it's wet! With no hugger or spray protection riding in rain can and does result in the gearbox filling up with water! Later still the CARC bikes have another system where the pinion is sealed but because the entire bevel gear system sits within a reactive bridge with the bevelbox casing as well as the pinion being sealed there is another 'Rubber' boot that seals the front of the box ensuring the interior of the swingarm remains 'Dry'. The CARC bevelboxes have a breather at the front of the bevelbox case above the pinion bearing part of the reactive bridge. It too is prone to water intrusion from wheel spray but, inexplicably, not on all bikes! The only reason I can think of is different spray patterns from tyres with differing sipage! Anyway, a remote breather to replace the shitty little 'Top Hat' breather is commonplace on CARC bikes. I in fact designed and marketed a very neat and unobtrusive system for the CARC early on but, as you would expect from Guzzi owners, they whined and complained that it was 'Too Expensive' so nowadays most people just use a banjo and a length of braided hose run up the swingarm and up near the airbox to allow the box to vent without the risk of water intrusion. Cali 14's, V85's and other Smallblocks all have sealed pinions and breathers. To return briefly to the subject of Quotas, (And others with the early *Unsealed* pinion bearings.) the thing is that although in theory the box should be able to vent through the bearings into the swingarm reality is such that sometimes, for whatever reason, the box will pressurise and the seal/s pop. I've experienced it myself with weeping seals that when you push in the seal hook to extract them you get a hiss of escaping air! Far more than you would expect if the full volume of the swingarm etc was available for expansion. Anyway the 'Why?' Is by the by but I'd think that the reason why the Quota in question has the breather fitted is because it's one of these *Inconvenient* pressure prone boxes. You could always remove it, get the box good and hot and then 'Burp' it and see if it has excess pressure. If it doesn't? Leave it be. If it hisses at you? Reinstall the breather post haste!

So I finally found my way over to the largest posting on this forum. After a week of working on my bike, this fixes everything. Keep up the good work.

TE Connectivity 282087-1 AMP Superseal 3 Position Plug Housing | Waytek (waytekwire.com) Eureka ! And you will not break the bank with this price . I purchase a lot from this place . They sell quality parts .

This is the cure to my "no crank" issue that plagued my engine startups in 2021 and 2022. Now each time I depress the starter button, the starter motor cranks! @MartyNZ I simply followed your advice; one was to take apart the ignition switch and clean up the contacts, the second was to fully get rid of the problem by adding an extra relay.

Very cool! Thanks, @gstallons! Even paying a few bucks for a new connector to get the seal could be well worth it. After treating all of the harness connectors under the tank with Caig DeOxit, the bike would not start. Taking the tank back off , I found one of the large connectors reluctant to go back together (from @PJPR01's post, now I know why!). Used a carpenter's clamp to reseat the connector and zip-tied. Yes, I would like the replace that seal, as well . . .

Really? You think? Fair enough, but I wouldn't say they were that special. If you want to hear something outrageously tasty we currently have a 2 valve 1200 Sport in that has the 'Facory' performance pipes on with the dB killers out, it has a map developed by Tony Mowbray and it is absolutely f*cking awesome! Most of you know I'm not a fan of *Loud* bikes but this one has that truly magnificent 'Basso Profundo' note usually only acquired by V11's and VTR's with a full Staintune system! It's aural heaven on a stick!

A vented system will keep the rear end at a constant ":pressure" and you will not have TROUBLE

The bike looks like he probably Dual sported it ( That was the idea for this bike when built right?)..with those tires..and Idaho is a good place for that ..if he anticipated doing any water crossings that could explain the breather hose on the rear drive if its elevated? I think most people I know remove a the vapor and recirculation system ..I usually do immediately.. Levers? eh...easy to remedy right?

When I was getting back into bikes again, a 900SS was on the shortlist along with the original Triumph Speed Triple.... Had every intention of test riding all three but never made it past the V11 Guzzi! Just blown away with it. And I couldn't even ride it at the time as it needed to be complianced for Oz...( I fired her up and that was enough...) Anyways I still like these Ducs. Cheers Ps I was biased toward a Guzzi anyways after falling in love with Mk 3 back in 80's and riding a Mk 5 later in that decade. Took a while to get a Guzzi but she's here to stay.

Your relay mounts have been mucked with. Plus, the "STA-RTR" relay is normally in the front. Might still be, since labeling the relay itself is bad procedure as soon as a relay gets moved.

Yes, I'm all too familiar with that syndrome...

If you mean the ignition switch, then dielectric grease would work, but it is best used in static connections to keep water and oxygen out. I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES, but any white lithium grease is good. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/ I use dielectric grease on all exposed electrical connections. It is particularly good on ignition coil connections, but I have heard that it is bad in vented relays, where it can mess with contact resistance when contact sparking happens.

I tried an idea on my V11 to both reduce any chance of water ingress and reduce unsprung weight. An alloy vent plug with an oil trap, and a short hose with a foam filter. No oil leaks or water, but then there wasn't any before I started either.

and what maintainance do you have planned in the two weeks before that one?

Docc, This is the only pic I got of Bill’s real Italian police uniform he wore to the sKSR. Bill, congrats on pulling the trigger on the new V85!

Once again, @Kiwi_Roy's sage wisdom:

Check,check & recheck,that the relays are snugged in tight to their mounts. I noticed a few times when the seat was off,that my 2nd relay from the front appeared off kilter and not firmly pressed into place;I thought that I was hitting it with my arm or something when I was moving stuff around. It turns out,there seems to be interference with one of the reinforcing splines molded into the bottom of my seat pan,it has to slide down into a narrow empty space beside the relays. My ITI black face tach stopped working the other day and after reading horror stories about over charging and gauge failures,I was prepared for the worst;but when I removed the seat to verify the fuses,that same relay was a little loose and I could see the interference with the seat pan. Connections all verified and the seat replaced very carefully,the tach has come back to life and all seems good. fwiw

Hey look! Is that a 120 watt Dean Markley under the tool bag? For some reason I don't have a wife, but I do have twin 11 liter v8 cat diesels under my floor. Could I have a Guzzi type personality? Should I be worried?

Bought this new. And then there was another one....

Well, that should cover it. Thanks, Pete.

Did you finally get your rear end to not leak ?

Yeah .......that is what we are not looking for.

There have been reports that when fresh gear oil is put in the rear drive unit, as the fluid & air get hot & expands,it can be enough to blow seals over time; That's why some people recommend burping the rear end shortly after the first good heat cycle.(I do it out of habit) A vent cap or tube precludes the need for "burping"

Our V11 LeMans/Sports have an elegant breather vent on both the reardrive and the gearbox. Why not add one to your Quota reardrive and loose the "artisan" solution?

Ha ha and then there's the bloody throttle on the Mk 5.... Heavyish and needed 2 grabs for full noise and you had to be careful not to do it too fast! I'm glad I waited for a V11 eh!! Cheers

Your mind is settled for Quota, buy it . Shoud be enough wenting with the original breather, just don't overfill the rear drive. Hiccup problem seems solved, and she looked clean. Cheers Tom.

The relay bases have dovetail grooves to link each base to the next. You should be able to hook the bases together to align them by sliding vertically. Then you need another mount bolt as shown by P6x.

I second Doc's statement. My relays are all aligned along the same axis.

30 years ago...One of 3 -900 Supersports I owned. back in the day ,My favorite 1993 ..I took this pic on the way to Laguna Seca in in 1995..( before cell phone cameras) ..The bike taught me a lot about riding. I have a 2022 950 SuperSport S now...love the bike but have the MG affliction so it rarely gets ridden.

Ok; both boots and the rest of the bike...

Thinking that this will be the official debut of my new Guardia d’Onore V85. Bill

A few years back I had three Daytona RS's in the shop at once. Two 'A' kit bikes and one with the full 'C' kit. The 'A' kit bikes were much nicer to ride. The reality is that a V11, any V11, is a much nicer and better bike than any of the early Hi-Cams. They are lovely to look at though.

Even four weeks out, I ran out of time for the Kentucky SpineRaid. Got that sorted now. I will need a new rear tire before the SSR XIX. And, well, you know . . . that slippery slope that goes with a tire change . . .

The Texas Motorcycle Museum in Johnston City has a Daytona RS and other Guzzi oldies on display! This was the first time I found the museum open. Who knew you could actually look at Moto Guzzi Daytona RS in the flesh....

nos·tal·gia| näˈstaljə, nəˈstaljə | noun A sentimental longing or wistful affection for the past, typically for a period or place with happy personal associations. 14 years old, I was finally getting a real taste of freedom when I graduated from a bicycle and was legally allowed to ride a "Cyclomoteur" on the street... without a license. I literally lived on the darn thing and loved it, from taking me to school in the morning to meeting with my friends afterwards at the café and going on adventures on the week-ends. And when summer came, we'd load them up and go on multi-days camping trips in the backcountry... lots of fun memories. The Italians had Vespas, we had Motobécane, Velosolex and Peugeot. The Peugeot 103 was ubiquitous in the streets of France in the 70's and would become the most sold moped in the world. It was the most popular model back then and has retained a cult following to this day. The Peugeot 103 celebrated its 50 years anniversary in 2021. Here is an article in honor of the event - Sorry but it's in French. https://www.mobylette-mag.fr/4890-peugeot-103-le-cyclomoteur-le-plus-vendu-dans-le-monde.html

Lots of relay discussion dating way back to the beginning. The very first action my dealer provided for mySport, when new, was a larger Start relay (#1/front). The early V11 (1999-2001) uses the weaker (N.C.) contacts of that relay to supply all power to Relay#2 (headlights ETC). Later V11 send all of this through the Ignition Switch (another kind of potential problem). Under-rated relays have been known to fail in the V11, perhaps especially #5 (Fuel/Ignition) in the back of the stack; likely why the previous owner of Art's Sport has tagged these two relays. "Best" relay currently available is probably the Pickers Components rated 25/30. The CIT 20/30 is probably fine, yet on the early Sport that 25 amp N.C. rating on the Pickers seems good insurance . . .

Here's the thread on what I had to do with the Sport to get it dry. I originally simply vented the cap to a hose, but it was so bad that it still pushed juice out a 1/8" hose over 3 feet long. The trick was shielding the base of the vent from thrown oil, which took a while to suss out. Since this mod, I've had zero trace of oil in the vent hose, I even ran it for a day without the hose and it stayed dead dry.

I think I'm older than you Pete and I'm probably a great deal more wooly headed. My understanding and it could well be wrong, was the B kitted bikes were the same as the C kit but without the hotter cam. The A kit was a different air filter, exhaust cross over, end cans (unsure about that) and chip. As for a B kit being offered by Mandello I've no idea, but I do know of 2 Magni Australias that were the first of the 2 runs of these bikes being fitted with B kits. The C kit sold in the US/Singapore and Switzerland had a milder cam than the rest of the world. The milder cam installed on the US models was also used in the Centauro, so only C kitted bikes outside US/Singapore and Switzerland and the RS had that particular cam. As you know, my bike drove me round the bend trying to understand why it ran so hot with low oil pressure (partly due to the high temp). What I found out, thanks mainly to @Lucky Phil was the PRV spring was poor and partially lifted, robbing the bike of much needed pressure and that was swapped out for a Griso spring (which has its own problems). Phil also found info on a German forum, apparently common knowledge that the Non US/Singapore and Switzerland cams make the HiCam run hot, up to 140C (when mine reaches 120C I pull over and let it cool) whereas with the US/Singapore and Switzerland cam the temp never rises above 100C. I now also run either Royal Purple or Penrite full synth 10/60 and that helps quite a bit too. If I could lay my hands on a set of Centauro cams I'd install them just to make the bike a little less of red headed stepchild, but happy enough with the current setup As for the A and C cams in the same bike, doesn't surprise.............only in Italy

I felt like watching a replay of what happens in MotoGP... I could easily compare Jake Gagné with Fabio Quartararo; I wonder if Cameron Beaubier sting in Moto2 helped him to be more competitive here.

Euro Bikes like the longer tracks, higher top speeds make them competitive.

I kinda have my own version of those Paul B

Had some sort of 50cc European moped until this awesome 2-stroke

HST has a spot in my memories as well. I've read all his books and a few other writings, including accounts of him by others. Questionable motives, questionable methods. I'll just say that I think he was a very, very good writer. Steadman is an original master. The 96 CR was/is my fav

Good, just replace them (the rubber blocks). They'll then probably hold another twenty years. You're right in your assessment: the thread inserts in the front of the block have pulled out and are on the screws that hold the dashboard. As far as Loctite goes, I wouldn't bother. Thinking about it, though, I believe mine has Nylock (or similar, i.e. self-locking) nuts on the back end of the isolation block. That makes sense, and is very easy to do if the nuts on there aren't self-locking.

@al_roethlisberger . . . I hear there is still a room left at The Lodge. Trailer your [highly modified] provenant 2002 LeMans. We can make a TechSession of it. "Show&Tell !" Give advice, take notes, trade parts . . .

A buddy of mine was having a get together on his boat late one afternoon and he walked up on them at the stern and was listening to them talking about meds & ailments . He busted them out saying "40 yrs ago you were braggin' about what drugs you had been taking & now you're complainin' about all the drugs you are taking" !

When I put the bike together a few years ago for my long trip, I went around looking for a reason for, and solution to, gear lube being forced out of the rear drive seal and onto the rim. I ended up drilling a hole in the filler plug and pressing a grease zerk with ball removed into the hole, and running 3-4 feet of tubing up the swingarm and along the frame, exiting by the rear turn signal. In the main it was ok, but at high speeds and unknown distances it still emptied about half the gear oil out of the box over my 10k mile trip. Whilst overlooking my deficits for the 2021 South'n Spine Raid, the tubing disintegrated. So I went looking again. I replaced the zerk with a brake bleeder, tapped and screwed in. The single hole in the bleeder faced forward, away from the flow of lube inside. Way better than the zerk, but still came home after 50 miles with some drool on the wheel, too much to tolerate. So here's my plan. I looked online at axle vents etc, and found one from a jeep with a plastic skirt under it, and a conical spring inside to 'filter' and decant oil back to the axle. I couldn't make it fit under the drive stay rod... but it did give an idea. I stole the spring out of it, went looking for a skirt and found that a brass PEX adapter was a very nice, very tight press into the underside of the fill plug. I wound the spring into the hole and pressed the adapter in with the bench vice, hopefully protecting the bleeder hole from any direct oil splash. Now, on to the testing. Yes, I've considered that it may shake loose. No, I'm confident that it can't-it's tight but not so tight to worry about cracking or splitting while pressing it.

http://s14.postimg.org/h12lev329/tumblr_n34wwhrrr61rmdfgro1_400.jpg My favorite... http://s14.postimg.org/5d8jkbdxd/7f38330ba1d702dc57ad18331cf87d25.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/cq87r278n/d199b2ef3e07a7caf058770add2bda26.jpg

In truth, two out of th In truth, I can't claim to "own" more than two of those three. But isn't that the whole point of the photos? Here's another fine picture.