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That is where I was last weekend, on the shores of the Eder Reservoir (Edersee) for the annual rally of the german language forum that I am active in. Cold at night in the tent, but lovely sunny weather during the day. Here are a couple of pictures: ( the GTR 100 on the left is mine. I went to a Guzzi Rally on a Kawasaki, but don't tell anyone... ) There were two spine frames there, the greenie on the right in the second photo, and a rather pretty 2002 Le Mans in red. The greenie had only fairly recently been bought by its current owner, and had a couple of issues, so it got looked at by the experts (and fixed...). The friendly looking bloke in the red t-shirt is Bernd, the author of the Guzzidiag programme. (If anyone should wonder why he is staring into a cardboard box, his laptop is in there. The box is so that he can read the screen in the bright sunlight.) PS: sorry it is such a shitty photo. Shot from the hip with a telefon in full sunlight, so I couldn't really see how the photo was going to turn out. I'll try harder next time...

It was a test... I posted the photos to verify if someone would notice there were six relays instead of five. You passed!

You can save your original BIN file off the ECU using the reader. Saving takes about 15 minutes. Then you can load the Meinolf BIN. Loading takes about 10 seconds. Ride and decide yeah/no. Revert by loading the original BIN, or keep, it's a no-risk choice.

Breather hose is the most likely culprit but it could also be the hose to the airbox, a seized ball valve in the breather spigot or the rocker feed delivery hose or bolt. Check the cooler fittings as well and make sure the radiator isn't cracked.

I got off the bike from the last ride and oil is dripping on both sides, my boots are polished. On the side stand, I'd guess a few ounces on the driveway. The top of the V on the motor is splashed, particularly the front. Splashed over the breather tube, especially wet at the banjo from oil cooler. Both the banjo and the sender seem tight. oooh well.... Been there done that with oily boots to prove it. Got my replacement at MG Cycle. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186 CRANKCASE BREATHER HOSE TO FRAME 1100 SPORT V11 SPORT V11 LEMANS PART NUMBER: 30157400 IN STOCK $27.37

You gotts do what you gotta do !

I tried an idea on my V11 to both reduce any chance of water ingress and reduce unsprung weight. An alloy vent plug with an oil trap, and a short hose with a foam filter. No oil leaks or water, but then there wasn't any before I started either.

Once again, @Kiwi_Roy's sage wisdom:

Bought this new. And then there was another one....

Well, that should cover it. Thanks, Pete.

Picked her up today after a 2hour test yesterday. Highway home from the dealer today, about 100m in cold weather. Can't wait for nicer weather. She feels light, so betting she will be fun in the mountains. More later. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Whip the tank off and have a look.

So not today but over the weekend I got through my first valve adjustment, spark plug re-gap, TPS reset, and brake fluid flush performed on the V11. Next up is the throttle body balance followed by the GuzziDiag CO trim adjustment. I also acquired a few of those Viton o-rings to replace the originals on the air bypass screws. Almost done with the decent tune up! Is it recommended to re-map the ECU with the Meinolf map no matter what? Or do the re-map only if a performance improvement seems necessary?

No, I'm afraid not. It is a Le Mans 850, if I remember correctly. I didn't look at it very closely, but it looked very trick. There was also a Daytona sidecar there. I think it is a shame to bolt a side car on a Daytona, but it was very well done. The owner bought it that way, and he loves it. I think there were about half a dozen side cars there in total. There were two V100 Mandello S there, both green. One of them belongs to one of the forum admininstrators. There are about 13 in the forum now, at least last time I looked. Maybe more now. Those who have them are all very pleased with them.

You could also use a couple of these. QUALITY HOSE CLAMP, CRANKCASE BREATHER VENTILATION PART NUMBER: 0540249 IN STOCK $6.31

Yes, breatherhose. Cheers Tom.

Here is another source for the Superseal 1.5 series connectors. Cheap prices and no minimum. https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/automotive-connectors/?series=Superseal 1.5&instock=y&pg=2

Mine wobbles too. I used a gas leak detection aerosol to find out if the wobble was more than just that. The Quota's I saw on Friday had its solid; solid as a rock! I thought how strange they get it right before, and make it worse later? This video describes it perfectly....

So the sockets for the relays are single units that are attached to each other, are they? I had assumed that it was a block. Are the sockets (bases) hard to get? I would imagine it is a standard part, but a quick search at Wendel didn't yield a part number.

I am glad we not the only ones to pull off seats to connect diagnostics . . . Which always gathers an interested crowd . . .

Glad to hear !

Noooo. the omly way to fix this is with a new one. It seems like this seal and Deoxit are not compatible . I use Motorcraft electrical grease . It is available through Ford dealers . the compound is made by NYE lubricants . This stuff is for computer circuit boards , aircraft applications , etc. High tech and a fair price . I use dielectric grease in spark plug boots & that's about it.

I wonder if washing the seal in hot water and detergent, then drying for a day or two, would let it shrink back to normal.

You mean @p6x I think. However, it is a Song Chan 871-1C-C-R1 made in China. I don't have any experience with them, but they seem to be readily available. 871-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC-Song-Chuan.pdf

Very cool! Thanks, @gstallons! Even paying a few bucks for a new connector to get the seal could be well worth it. After treating all of the harness connectors under the tank with Caig DeOxit, the bike would not start. Taking the tank back off , I found one of the large connectors reluctant to go back together (from @PJPR01's post, now I know why!). Used a carpenter's clamp to reseat the connector and zip-tied. Yes, I would like the replace that seal, as well . . .

Um, yep . . .

Lots of relay discussion dating way back to the beginning. The very first action my dealer provided for mySport, when new, was a larger Start relay (#1/front). The early V11 (1999-2001) uses the weaker (N.C.) contacts of that relay to supply all power to Relay#2 (headlights ETC). Later V11 send all of this through the Ignition Switch (another kind of potential problem). Under-rated relays have been known to fail in the V11, perhaps especially #5 (Fuel/Ignition) in the back of the stack; likely why the previous owner of Art's Sport has tagged these two relays. "Best" relay currently available is probably the Pickers Components rated 25/30. The CIT 20/30 is probably fine, yet on the early Sport that 25 amp N.C. rating on the Pickers seems good insurance . . .

Here's the thread on what I had to do with the Sport to get it dry. I originally simply vented the cap to a hose, but it was so bad that it still pushed juice out a 1/8" hose over 3 feet long. The trick was shielding the base of the vent from thrown oil, which took a while to suss out. Since this mod, I've had zero trace of oil in the vent hose, I even ran it for a day without the hose and it stayed dead dry.

One thing being overlooked here is that the various bevelboxes are different and most 'Vent' differently. On Loops, Tonti's and the Quota the pinion and its bearings aren't sealed. This means that theoretically the air in the box will vent through the bearings and into the swingarm and thence through the splines of the shaft and universal joint into the UJ housing where any 'Pressure' will simply cause the boot between the swingarm and gearbox to swell a bit. There is also that the extra volume of the swingarm etc. means that the pressure rise is proportionally low. We'll come back to this. On the early Spineframes, Daytonas, Sport 1100's and Centy's what was essentially the same bevelbox was used but due to the shaft not being enclosed the pinion was sealed. On these boxes though the factory never fitted a breather and consequently seal failures due to pressurisation issues are fairly common, not helped by the sealing surface at the pinion being exposed to water, grime and not being rust proofed in any way! When the V11 series arrived they'd had enough time to have a think about it and coupled with changed internal ratios in both gear and bevelbox the sealing mechanism and pinion bearings were redesigned and improved and a breather was added to the bevelbox that was also enlarged to take more oil and greater volume. One of the biggest problems with the V11 series breather set ups is actually on the gearbox where some genius in the design department put it in the centreline of the gearbox directly in line with the spray line from the rear tyre when it's wet! With no hugger or spray protection riding in rain can and does result in the gearbox filling up with water! Later still the CARC bikes have another system where the pinion is sealed but because the entire bevel gear system sits within a reactive bridge with the bevelbox casing as well as the pinion being sealed there is another 'Rubber' boot that seals the front of the box ensuring the interior of the swingarm remains 'Dry'. The CARC bevelboxes have a breather at the front of the bevelbox case above the pinion bearing part of the reactive bridge. It too is prone to water intrusion from wheel spray but, inexplicably, not on all bikes! The only reason I can think of is different spray patterns from tyres with differing sipage! Anyway, a remote breather to replace the shitty little 'Top Hat' breather is commonplace on CARC bikes. I in fact designed and marketed a very neat and unobtrusive system for the CARC early on but, as you would expect from Guzzi owners, they whined and complained that it was 'Too Expensive' so nowadays most people just use a banjo and a length of braided hose run up the swingarm and up near the airbox to allow the box to vent without the risk of water intrusion. Cali 14's, V85's and other Smallblocks all have sealed pinions and breathers. To return briefly to the subject of Quotas, (And others with the early *Unsealed* pinion bearings.) the thing is that although in theory the box should be able to vent through the bearings into the swingarm reality is such that sometimes, for whatever reason, the box will pressurise and the seal/s pop. I've experienced it myself with weeping seals that when you push in the seal hook to extract them you get a hiss of escaping air! Far more than you would expect if the full volume of the swingarm etc was available for expansion. Anyway the 'Why?' Is by the by but I'd think that the reason why the Quota in question has the breather fitted is because it's one of these *Inconvenient* pressure prone boxes. You could always remove it, get the box good and hot and then 'Burp' it and see if it has excess pressure. If it doesn't? Leave it be. If it hisses at you? Reinstall the breather post haste!

A vented system will keep the rear end at a constant ":pressure" and you will not have TROUBLE

Had some sort of 50cc European moped until this awesome 2-stroke

Great thread, our list of items of which to focus for long lasting miles of riding. Thankfully, I do love to tinker!

Putting "Rear drive: far right side needle cage.: on my list now. Thanks docc for the reminder. I just did brake fluid flush on my '02 clutch/brakes. The '03 is now saying "Hey, what about me!"

Oh, well, yes . . . there is the matter of greasing the front U-joint. Especially on the the early RedFrame Sports . . . So much of this is in the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist and Wheels off Maintenance Checklist As to major mechanical rebuilds, that hasn't turned out to be of the most concern, as far as I have seen.

Seriously, other than Relays, Battery, and Tune-up: the three most neglected areas on V11: > Rear drive: far right side needle cage. > Sidestand fasteners, both, but especially the high torque large bolt. > Charging system failure (ungrounded regulator, melting 30 amp fuse, broken stator wires).

After this last valve adjustment (no changes to the lash), I did have to cave in and replace the right side, original valve cover gasket. I suppose I should go ahead and do the left side . . .

You could replace the big and bulky rear drive torque arm with an aftermarket unit with rod end fittings which would give you a lot more room to play with the vent solutions. Your oil deflector of some sort seems like a good idea. Ciao

I know this subject has been flogged to death already but i had to post my 2 cents after reading all the pre'vious posts on greasing the front U joint of which some seemed almost a form of torture for what was being achived,will post pic of grease gun later. I did a combination of the 160 degree piv'oting head on the grease gun from Ace Harware,there are pics in other posts on this subject,also ground down the tip a little,be carefull here overdid the fist one,then made sure the rear U joint grease nipple was pointing down to the ground,not the one on the shaft the one in the U joint itself,this also makes getting at that one easier to. Next is the tricky bit getting the end of the gun on the front nipple,i positioned myself sitting on the ground facing to the rear,stand the gun on the ground between your legs and feed the end of the guns flex hose,only the last 8"is solid,and with both your hands situate the end of the grease gun on the nipple,this is a bit of a pain,took me about 4 or 5 mins of dinking around and "Wallah",nothing to remove from the bike"IE"rear mud guard,shaft,wheel, "BlahBlah". The hardest part if anything is getting the bloody thing off the nipple,i ended up useing a long screw driver and a small hammer and gently tapped it off,this would seem to me to be a little less work which i'm a big fan of when it comes to bike main'tenance,has anyone ever tried to drill an ac'cess hole in the cover over that end of the shaft? Hope this helps for anyone else wanting to make this chore a little easier to do,need some info on paint for a 2002 V11 Le Mans,i think they call it Champagne Silver,does anyone know where to get touch up paint,thanks in advance. Stu.