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^^^ This. You aren't going to find it via internet, ya know.. Since you were riding it when it happened, it may not be obvious where it is coming from. Aerodynamics can do funny stuff with spreading oil around. If necessary, you *may* have to clean every thing up and apply baby powder to suspected areas, then run it. That will make a fine mess to clean up..

At last RM is back in 1 piece and running . What a saga. From trying to fit gearbox with clutch plate the wrong way around (Cases don't meet by about 5mm); Not being able to bleed clutch due to screw on lever being wound in to far; Waiting for Clutch master kit to arrive (That in end I didn't need); Gearbox leaking due to water in box after I washed it prior to painting (Gearbox came out again to get joints resealed). Taking gearbox out again to get screws holding slave cylinder removed after they jammed. Learnt heap's. Many thanks for everybody's help.

Made a pair of hose barbs with 6mm threads on one end. These are to balance the carbs, someday when my regulator arrives. Any one know what these are called? And Strange but true. Was in my favorite locksmith shop to get a spare guzzi key made. That's when I discovered it was lost. Later in the day I found it in a parking lot!

I dunno. All of the other components are available separately, including the individual wire seals. Once in hand, I intend to "start a new topic" related to seal failure and the concern over using connector treatments, specifically our beloved Caig DeOxit®. [edit: Thanks, again, to @PJPR01 for the heads-up on the swell/tear issue . . .] [edit2 June 20, 2023:

That won't happen again

The education is good , it's the tuition that eats you up !

So great to see a picture of the GuzziDiag developer! I love the way the guy in the red hat appears to be standing at attention, saluting. I don't get that at SpineRaids . . .

Whip the tank off and have a look.

Found this; it might be helpful. https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/Delphi_Metri_Pack_150_Series_Section.pdf

Simple enough to push an incandescent bulb back into the Fuel Level socket and see if it lights as expected . . . Here is a post by our illustrious @Kiwi_Roy declaring the LED will need additional resistance to function with the thermistor:

In case it is of any use, here is what Bernd wrote on the german forum: The result of a DeepL translation (slightly improved by me): Info regarding Mac OS X Unzip the ZIP file somewhere and start the app. That should be it. Since I'm not a Mac user, I can't say much more about it. I've reached a point where the programmes run without the Finder crashing. The connections are established and the values can be read from GuzziDiag. The software up- and download for the 15x also works. Nevertheless, I haven't reached 100% yet, but I'm working on it. New unpleasant information about the Mac: In another forum, a user took a closer look at the Apple version and newer OS X versions. He discovered that since OS 10.8 Apple uses its own USB drivers for the FTDI chip, so the original ones won't work anymore. (I can't quite understand this, because in my emulator it works under 10.8 and 10.9). But as a solution he uses a small program with which you can deactivate the Apple driver. http://www.enttec.com/support-center/kb/article/108-OS_X_Mavericks_(10.9)_-_IMPORTANT Edit: the link leads to somewher that doesn't look useful. See the EDIT at the end of this post. The program has to be running while using GuzziDiag and the Apple driver has to be deactivated, then there are no problems. (I assume, if you have installed the FTDI drivers before). Unfortunately, I'm on very thin ice here and can't say anything positive or negative about it. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) To put it all into perspective: Bernd doesn't own a Mac, so his testing possibilities are a bit limited. On top of that, he doesn't even own a Guzzi for which Guzzidiag is applicable. His Guzzi is a Le Mans 850. Given that, all credit to the man that the programme even exists. EDIT: the link in Bernd's text leads to an australian manufacturer of LED lighting systems. The relevance is, they us DMX (common lighting control system. Look it up if you're curious) to control their systems, and reading their site indicates that the interface they use has an FDTi chip. I think, but am not sure, that the article that the link was supposed to lead to was probably this: https://support.enttec.com/support/solutions/articles/101000396106-macos-software-not-recognizing-dmx-usb-pro reading that and extrapolating might help solve problems, I think. Perhaps. I'm going to send that to Bernd, because the link in his text in the german forum is not that useful. If he responds with anything positive, I'll pass it on. ANOTHER EDIT: the post in which that text was found was last edited in May, 2022.

I had the same problem on the 2003 Lemans I bought. I think it's MPH cycles that sells the stainless steel collars that will fix the problem. Around $70 if I remember right. Dave

Let me pass this one from a member on Wild If your oil mess turns out to be the large diameter oil breather hose that runs from the front of the frame spine to the top of the crankcase just in front of the tranny, you might want to know this this:When mine developed a leak just after I bought the bike last summer (97 1100 Sporti, i believe it's the same on a V11), I replaced it with a new one from MG Cycles. It split within 100 mies down near the bottom and MG Cycles replaced it for 1/2 price. The replacement also failed in the same spot within 300 miles.So, giving up, I did a little research and found a reference on another website to a Ford heater hose that is supposed to work:Goodyear Ford hose #63318. NAPA Item#: NBH10912 $55.99. The bends are in the right place, you just have to cut off a couple inches of the ends.I don't have many miles on this one yet, but the hose is rubber rather than vinyl and has a fabric reinforcement molded into it. I don't see how it could be any worse than the original. Also, it's not that much fun to install.Hope this helps. Perhaps I should've left well enough alone?

We're talking about the screws in the holes in the intake manifold where the vacuum gauges get connected to syncronise the throttle bodies, right? At that position on various motorcycles I have only ever seen an aluminium sealing washer. That's what I would put in there. Edit: no, wait. I changed those on my V35 Imola a couple of months ago. The originals were aluminium. The workshop gave me copper washers instead, because that is what the had in stock. They also work fine. The point is, it needs to be a sealing washer, not just a plain steel one.

That is where I was last weekend, on the shores of the Eder Reservoir (Edersee) for the annual rally of the german language forum that I am active in. Cold at night in the tent, but lovely sunny weather during the day. Here are a couple of pictures: ( the GTR 100 on the left is mine. I went to a Guzzi Rally on a Kawasaki, but don't tell anyone... ) There were two spine frames there, the greenie on the right in the second photo, and a rather pretty 2002 Le Mans in red. The greenie had only fairly recently been bought by its current owner, and had a couple of issues, so it got looked at by the experts (and fixed...). The friendly looking bloke in the red t-shirt is Bernd, the author of the Guzzidiag programme. (If anyone should wonder why he is staring into a cardboard box, his laptop is in there. The box is so that he can read the screen in the bright sunlight.) PS: sorry it is such a shitty photo. Shot from the hip with a telefon in full sunlight, so I couldn't really see how the photo was going to turn out. I'll try harder next time...

Yes. They started there, tried this way and that, and ended up back at -20. The important bit is, I reckon, the "this way and that", i.e. not just set to any particular value, but starting at a value that is known to be fairly good, and varying one way and then the other to find the best value. What they were observing, as mentioned, was the throttle response coming off idle. The process seemed to me to be analagous to setting the mixture screws on a carb: set them to the value in the Workshop Manual, then screw them in and out to find the best setting, in the case of the carbs the best idle.

Don's got a couple of guys he's training. The guy that rehabbed my crashed EV is pretty good. The other guy is a real novice and was working on both bikes. He means well and I want him to succeed. But both bikes he worked on went back to for leaking gas. I have a feeling that he might not have gotten the breather tube on snug either. But I'm a little tired of the whole mess. But of course, I'm jumping to conclusions. I did need a sanity check. OTOH, after TB cleaning and tune up, both bikes have never run better and make me remember why I like to ride Guzzis, that's 70k (EV) and 50k (Sport) miles respectively.

Commonly called "vacuum taps", I see the early Parts Catalog only shows a "screw" there. Consider sourcing a tight-fitting silicone cap for those. The common rubber caps dry out, crack, harden and get loose. The kind of insidiously progressive vacuum leak that can be maddening with running issues.

It was basically just a "decent tune up". Karsten (yellow t-shirt and overalls) did all the tinkering, Bernd checked what Guzzidiag can check. They set the TPS (goal was 160 mV, it ended up at about 158), balanced the throttle bodies, set the CO trim. For the CO, they started at -20 and varied back and forwards in steps of 10 to see how it reacted. The focus was on just off closed throttle, i.e. how snappy it was when the throttle was opened from idle. The final setting was -20. Yeah, it does look like that. That is Peter, the bloke who owns the Daytona side car rig. I only met him about an hour before that photo. His Daytona got looked at too. Karsten used to have a Centauro, so he knows that motor pretty well.

Yes, our TPS connector is shown on page 76 of that document as an "assembly" including the female connector with the cavity seal in place. C Part No: 12052641 (Black/Green Seal) Description: Connector Assembly 3F

Crankcase oil vent hose, $20 Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2Y22S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I currently am using this on my 2003. Note: As this hose is intended for water, it is not oil certified. However others have noted no signs of wear for well over 10,000 miles. Even then, no loss of oil, only degradation of the rubber. At this price, and ease of replacement, it serves us to install, and monitor, and replace as needed versus OEM that is hardly available and cost threes times this amount. Taken from this thread,

It does not run the first time, but it does the second time. I think it is some malware protection built in MacOS that verifies that you really want to run a program which has not been downloaded from an Apple approved server. However, I have not yet managed to communicate with the interface because you need to assign and open a port. I should believe the software does it, but Apple has probably built a protection to prevent it when the software is not approved by them.

That could be a security/firewall setting in your OS. See if you can navigate to that section and list GuzziDiag as an exception. edit/ to wit:

runs fine on my sons windows laptop so I'm good to go

Idk exactly how much gas gets consumed & mileage figures etc;but what I can say for certainty,is that like all my guzzis,I get decent range & mpg on my V11 Lemans. My last ride was a hard fast run, up to the top of Opeongo mountain & back home 235 kms. Idk how much gas is left in the tank,it was full when I started,& the fuel warning light was just lighting up as I wheeled the bike into the garage. fwiw, ymmv, literally

well, there is nothing quite like em, John..

unboxing my guzzidiag cable from lonelec

All the dash lights can be converted to LED, with the exception of the one that governs the turn signals/blinkers...those only work on 1 side if converted to LED. But having brighter LED's on the rest of the dash lights (and coupled with the jeweled screen) really is a nice modernization touch.

I don't know enough about the circuit or the sensor to guess, but could it be that it needs the resistance of a conventional light globe to work properly?

I did recently install LEDS for all of my instrument lights so I believe the light should be good, connections still look good too. As long as I have the odometer, I'll monitor fuel like most my other bikes. It bugs the light doesn't work though, I'll probably end up chasing it. 6 gallons, yeah I was surprised. It was EMPTY!

Makes perfect sense from a marketing point of view: the manufacturer makes more profit by only selling the plug complete.

Caspers got back to me immediately and confirmed that the main "cavity" seal is not available separately from their suppliers. He offered to pull one off a send it to me, but I declined and thanked them for offering the TPS breakout harness. My plan is to buy a few of these connectors to get the seals. More SpineRaid swag! Still, hard to believe the main seals are nowhere to be found separately . . .

I finished my fuel test today, 6 gallons, 220 miles; so about 37 mpg. And no, my fuel light doesn't work, as I coasted into the gas station.

Looking at the datasheet for the TE Superseal 3 way connector, the dimensions do not match the Delphi connector for the TPS on the Caspers breakout harness. Looking further into Delphi, I see this Metri-Pack connector, but can't find a dimensioned drawing. This does appear to be the correct connector for our TPS. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/12162280?qs=TcI%2BB%2FoBdJs3bmRc88sY3Q%3D%3D Best price, on the female connector, I have found (even has the green seal): https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/delphi-3-way-black-metri-pack-150-2-sealed-female-connector-2

You can save your original BIN file off the ECU using the reader. Saving takes about 15 minutes. Then you can load the Meinolf BIN. Loading takes about 10 seconds. Ride and decide yeah/no. Revert by loading the original BIN, or keep, it's a no-risk choice.

No, I'm afraid not. It is a Le Mans 850, if I remember correctly. I didn't look at it very closely, but it looked very trick. There was also a Daytona sidecar there. I think it is a shame to bolt a side car on a Daytona, but it was very well done. The owner bought it that way, and he loves it. I think there were about half a dozen side cars there in total. There were two V100 Mandello S there, both green. One of them belongs to one of the forum admininstrators. There are about 13 in the forum now, at least last time I looked. Maybe more now. Those who have them are all very pleased with them.

Breather hose is the most likely culprit but it could also be the hose to the airbox, a seized ball valve in the breather spigot or the rocker feed delivery hose or bolt. Check the cooler fittings as well and make sure the radiator isn't cracked.

I got off the bike from the last ride and oil is dripping on both sides, my boots are polished. On the side stand, I'd guess a few ounces on the driveway. The top of the V on the motor is splashed, particularly the front. Splashed over the breather tube, especially wet at the banjo from oil cooler. Both the banjo and the sender seem tight. oooh well.... Been there done that with oily boots to prove it. Got my replacement at MG Cycle. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186 CRANKCASE BREATHER HOSE TO FRAME 1100 SPORT V11 SPORT V11 LEMANS PART NUMBER: 30157400 IN STOCK $27.37

Bought this new. And then there was another one....

DeTomaso eagle, yes? Gambalunga eagle:

Good seat deserves a good front end, period. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Love the punch she has to offer [emoji16]. Dynotech.de ++. But hate the frontend. To much - rake. Ok, she was built for very aggressive riding. Rosso Corsa is like riding a Citroën. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Good find on the video, that's my friend Ben's new V100 here in Houston out with a couple of other riders in our group on BMW's, anniversary edition R90T and the new GS1250 water cooled. The new V100 is a lovely bike indeed. I'm hoping he'll let me ride it on our next outing! A pic of the old vs. the new!

This is at least the third iteration of Guzzidiag interface cables from Lonelec. This is what their original model looked like, somehow I ended up with 2 of those and they work just fine. Afaik there’s never been a problem connecting to Guzzidiag with cables sourced from them.

No, definitely not. Guzzi Diag ist an .exe file, that is, it is an "executable file". I does not need to be installed, it just has to be on the computer in a folder somewhere. Double click on it, and it starts. The worst that can happen is that Windows in its ultimate wisdom might consider the program to be a risk. Click on "more options" or whatever it is on the pop-up, tell Windows to go and fork itself, and the program runs. No internet necessary, no bs. It is a very honest, no frills programme that just does what it is supposed to do, and nothing else. PS, no, I don't like Microsoft products. Not even a little bit. The laptop that is designated for garage duty is going to become a Linux machine as soon as I have salvaged all the data off it. Guzzidiag is very happy running on a Linux machine.

You know you're on Lago di Como when the dock fenders are old motorcycle tires . . .

Gotta love that instant she looks down and declares, "OH! La benzina !! " (How many of us have been there?!? ) I just never pulled off a quick "mille lire " for a tank of gas without washing dishes for an hour or mucking out a horse stall . . .