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When the starter draws current the voltage drops. If it goes below critical (10.5?) the program will abort. At least that's the way it seems to work with the W5AM. If it's different with the 15M/RC I'm sure someone will jump in and correct me. The actual interaction of the ecu and any of the Guzzidiag suite of tools is very low in energy demands. It will continue operating quite happily as the actual current draw is low. You can have a battery that s almost completely buggered and it will show 12.5V when it's not doing anything. As soon as you stick a load on it though the voltage will drop to nothing! charging it up probably won't help. Buy a new battery and make sure all the important connections are clean and then try again with a battery charger hooked up to the battery. That way you should have ample amps for the voltage not to drop past the point of criticality when you suddenly impose the big load of trying to start the great fat pig of a thing by pressing the 'Brumm' button.

I am running O/S Catalina also on my 2010 Macbook and I had no problems hooking up to my 07 Norge...

It was just pure luck and none of it would be possible without Google... But it also wouldn't be a proper Guzzi forum if we weren't chasing the cheapest prices available (Guzzi content)... Although at 99¢ a piece you're gonna have to order 26 units to get free shipping, just saying... I'll send you a self addressed envelope if you end up with a couple of extra ones...

Then there is this . . . From that same source the 12162281 black connector is $3.55 each, the grey 12162280 is 99¢ . . . We're only after the seal. Get the grey! https://www.customconnectorkits.com/12162280/

Agreed. I feel confident we have identified this connector. It is still strange, to me, that the main cavity sea is not available separately, but such is often the matter of "manufacturer's assemblies", as @audiomick so noted. CaspersElectronics was so prompt and courteous, offering to send me a seal off of one their connectors. I just could not accept as I have ruined these seals myself, unknowingly, with the Caig DeOxit. There is a broad mix of connectors on our V11. There appear to be TE "AMP" SuperSeal, rectangular ("AMP" ?) that are not "SuperSeal", bullet connectors, ring terminals, spade connectors, and certainly this one Metri-Pack . . . Is there an Italian phrase for "what have you ?"

I don't have the bike nor the Casper breakout harness nearby to check, but referring to the picture you posted earlier, that would be a Metri-Pack 150.2 series connector, found on page 76 of that pdf. Unfortunately there is no detailed drawing/datasheet but only nominal dimensions. However, it references all the specs between the different part numbers associated to each type of connector.

Simple enough to push an incandescent bulb back into the Fuel Level socket and see if it lights as expected . . . Here is a post by our illustrious @Kiwi_Roy declaring the LED will need additional resistance to function with the thermistor:

The education is good , it's the tuition that eats you up !

You stole my thunder , Docc . The connector(s) I recommended were so a person could use the seal and toss the rest . 9

I agree, just get a cheap windows laptop. Works effortlessly.

Here is confirmation, of sort, that we got the right connector for our TPS: https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=313 And yeah, I think Sonoma, Napa or Petaluma would make a good base for a Norcal SpineRaid...

That looks original with some accessories 2004 V11 Sport

The only thing with that is, whether a radiator hose is oil resistant. On the weekend I finally met my good source of information in person. I spoke with him about exactly that hose. His advice was to buy the expensive one from Wendel https://wendelmotorraeder.de/oelschlauch-entlueftung-dick_gu30157400-p-1009234.html?ref=expl in his opinion, it should last a while. The equivalent from Stein Dinse is probably this Sorry, can't post that link. Stein Dinse appears to be updating their site, and I can't access it.

Regarding KiwiRoy's advice: a resistor in parallel to the LED will do the job as well. Just don't ask me what the resistance needs to be. It should be possible to calculate the value on the basis of the wattage of the bulb and the 12V nomimal voltage. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance_and_conductance

@PJPR01 I converted all of mine to LEDS, and you are correct, I can't get the right signal to flash on the panel. I didn't know this was common, I kept checking everything over and over and finally gave up. I guess I'll swap that bulb back the next time I'm in there. Thanks for sharing this knowledge. This may be what @audiomick is onto as well. Maybe the resistance isn't enough. At least now I know when I hit 200 miles, I only have about 20 or so left in the tank.

In case it is of any use, here is what Bernd wrote on the german forum: The result of a DeepL translation (slightly improved by me): Info regarding Mac OS X Unzip the ZIP file somewhere and start the app. That should be it. Since I'm not a Mac user, I can't say much more about it. I've reached a point where the programmes run without the Finder crashing. The connections are established and the values can be read from GuzziDiag. The software up- and download for the 15x also works. Nevertheless, I haven't reached 100% yet, but I'm working on it. New unpleasant information about the Mac: In another forum, a user took a closer look at the Apple version and newer OS X versions. He discovered that since OS 10.8 Apple uses its own USB drivers for the FTDI chip, so the original ones won't work anymore. (I can't quite understand this, because in my emulator it works under 10.8 and 10.9). But as a solution he uses a small program with which you can deactivate the Apple driver. http://www.enttec.com/support-center/kb/article/108-OS_X_Mavericks_(10.9)_-_IMPORTANT Edit: the link leads to somewher that doesn't look useful. See the EDIT at the end of this post. The program has to be running while using GuzziDiag and the Apple driver has to be deactivated, then there are no problems. (I assume, if you have installed the FTDI drivers before). Unfortunately, I'm on very thin ice here and can't say anything positive or negative about it. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) To put it all into perspective: Bernd doesn't own a Mac, so his testing possibilities are a bit limited. On top of that, he doesn't even own a Guzzi for which Guzzidiag is applicable. His Guzzi is a Le Mans 850. Given that, all credit to the man that the programme even exists. EDIT: the link in Bernd's text leads to an australian manufacturer of LED lighting systems. The relevance is, they us DMX (common lighting control system. Look it up if you're curious) to control their systems, and reading their site indicates that the interface they use has an FDTi chip. I think, but am not sure, that the article that the link was supposed to lead to was probably this: https://support.enttec.com/support/solutions/articles/101000396106-macos-software-not-recognizing-dmx-usb-pro reading that and extrapolating might help solve problems, I think. Perhaps. I'm going to send that to Bernd, because the link in his text in the german forum is not that useful. If he responds with anything positive, I'll pass it on. ANOTHER EDIT: the post in which that text was found was last edited in May, 2022.

That could be a security/firewall setting in your OS. See if you can navigate to that section and list GuzziDiag as an exception. edit/ to wit:

"What's next most" . . .

Commonly called "vacuum taps", I see the early Parts Catalog only shows a "screw" there. Consider sourcing a tight-fitting silicone cap for those. The common rubber caps dry out, crack, harden and get loose. The kind of insidiously progressive vacuum leak that can be maddening with running issues.

Glad you got it all sorted in the end.

It was a test... I posted the photos to verify if someone would notice there were six relays instead of five. You passed!

Really? You think? Fair enough, but I wouldn't say they were that special. If you want to hear something outrageously tasty we currently have a 2 valve 1200 Sport in that has the 'Facory' performance pipes on with the dB killers out, it has a map developed by Tony Mowbray and it is absolutely f*cking awesome! Most of you know I'm not a fan of *Loud* bikes but this one has that truly magnificent 'Basso Profundo' note usually only acquired by V11's and VTR's with a full Staintune system! It's aural heaven on a stick!

Maybe more like, "undeniable patina " . . .

Well under heavy braking I be nervous rear ending the vehicle in front of me… and gouging out a couple of bloody ice cream scoops of inner thigh from those aero wings as I’m catapulted forward sliding along the tank! I know they call ‘em aero’s but to me they look like gidji prongs

It looks like a voltage drop, because the screenshot you post has data from ecu. The sequence is different,:you tell guzzidiag to connect, that tells you to turn ignition on, and guzzidiag gets ecu info. Normaly you see this behavior when people start the bike, then you have a voltage drop too, if battery isn't strong.