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That confirms it, I know of the Griso Ghetto but never having ridden any of dem new fangled Guzzis I never bothered joining Perhaps you're right and I've got a half brother lurking somewhere, that's a scary thought (even for me)

In my industry, we get to charge extra if we document in Latin, along with an alphanumerical code. I tried something in Greek once, but got slapped, she told her dad, and I had to leave town . . .

You may have a brother you did not know about? He did say your nickname, that I am certain. Although he said you came from "Grizo Ghetto", not from V11lemans. But I remembered you here, so I said fine, I will get the details from him. Maybe he got confused too. At the beginning, he thought I was calling to purchase one of his motorbike. It took him a little while to figure out I was calling about the Quota 1100ES he had sold to somebody in Boise. He was just as young as me; so you know that we remember everything from 55 years ago, and absolutely nothing from yesterday.

With the WC motor it's more the fact that the direct action cam drive from the DOHC's dictates that the throttlebodies will be in the valley and the exhausts out the side but of course it also allows for direct downdraught induction meaning far better cylinder fill and less wasted charge. How they ever got the old Hi-Cam to make a genuine 100RWHP I have no real idea? But it does. Witchcraft I reckon, but it has a terrifying thirst due to waste and could never hope to meet €5 emissions targets.

No. They're all just jealous, and don't want to admit it.

Thanks for the info. Just need to set the TPS , sync the TBs and I'll be running decent. THEN I'll take my time and figure out how the mapping works. How to remap your bike for CARC, Breva 750, V7 Classic, California 1100 is full of good info, but leaves me with many more questions. So low CO is lean and higher is richer. My bike is idling rich when warm at -100 CO. I'm guessing someone has re mapped it. Like you say Docc, all this only applies to under 3000 rpm. That's an easy problem to fix, and yet I'm happy with how the bike runs. I could swear the front wheel left the ground yesterday going into second.

Think I'll hydrate myself just thinking about it..... Then again it'll be wine o clock in t minus 4 hours! Cheers Ps be safe out there mate

Could that have been the omen that led you to your infatuation with fast motorcycle…?

I had to take Greek and Latin classes in school as well as they were mandatory back then. What wasn’t mandatory I recall, was to remember any of it beyond these classes… I also recall that speaking in dead tongues wasn’t very effective in impressing the pretty girls…

And enough of this "hippo skull" talk! Chicks dig these things like nothing else . . .

My airbox is off at the moment, so I took a look. The hex head bolts holding the airbox lid down are 6mm dia x1mm pitch, length 82 & 30mm from under head to end. The screws attaching the side panels to the airbox are button head chrome or SS 5 x 0.8mm 12 mm length. The brass nipple is for the engine breather hose from the banjo at the top of the spine. Any oil resistant low pressure hose will keep oil vapour from making a mess. There should be an air temperature sensor on the front of the airbox. If it's not there, the ECU will assume a default temp, and the engine will be out of tune if the air temperature is not 20°C. The 2 screws on the rear of the airbox attach angle brackets going to frame mounts. You need those. The engine is sensitive to air leaks, so replace the cracked intake boots. The designer took some trouble to optimise the intake system, and you are restoring to that. Expect the engine to run better over the rev range, and with proper air filtration, when you finish.

It was tried in the seventies by an endurance racing team in Europe, a complete disaster, it shed the heads off exhaust valves like confetti. There's a reason the exhausts exit into the airflow. With the race team there was some crackpot theory about getting some supercharging effect from the bell mouths facing forward. With this bit of hubristic, dunderhead engineering even that doesn't fly because it's wearing foam rock strainers! This sort of nonsense seems popular with Germans for some reason.

A car enthusiast in the family passed along several magazines published by the Hagerty Classic Car Insurance Company. (They insure classic motorcycles as well.) I've been really enjoying the articles and features (Jay Leno writes for them and I've always enjoyed his motor-headed perspective). In the Nov/Dec 2018 issue, I ran across a piece by journalist, Aaron Robinson, referencing the "Waddington Effect" which discovered WWII British bombers suffered increased reliability problems after their scheduled inspection/maintenance. While I have observed this in motorcycling and other road vehicles, I felt reassured that others have also found this to be real. More support for my reluctance to take anything else apart on the Sport before the South'n Spine Raid in six weeks. ( I want to earn my " " back! ) Those of you in aviation, marine, and other fleet maintenance may have heard of Waddington, but this is my first exposure and his findings ring true with my experience, especially that of my recent wheel bearing failure. A couple summary quotes to kick off the discussion: “The rate of failure or repair is highest just after an inspection and thereafter falls, becoming constant after about 40-50 flying hours.” - CH Waddington “But the fact is that the inspection tends to increase breakdowns, and this can only be because it is doing positive harm by disturbing a reasonably satisfactory state of affairs.” - CH Waddington “It was as if the old parts were jealous of the new parts and chose to ruin it for everyone.” - Peter Darragh, Mariner-USA

I wonder how long it would’ve taken him to remember that…

I think failure will largely remain unpredictable. A few weeks ago, the main bearing of the coolant pump failed on my 911. This is after I completely overhauled the car, doing preventative maintenance on everything that may have required change. The coolant pump was declared in good state but nevertheless failed after I took the car out from the dealership. It occurred to me that the coolant pump failed because of that major maintenance that necessitated taking the engine down. Murphy's law is always dependable. If it works....

It took him a long time to realize that I was calling about a bike he had sold, and it took several attempts to get him to remember the Guzzi Quota. From what he explained to me, he likes to change his motorcycles often; I forgot to ask him if he was married.... He said he purchased the Quota because in Idaho, an adventure bike is compulsory.

Good maintenance prevents failures. There wouldn't be an airline industry otherwise. Took them a long time to figure it out. I used to maintain emergency backup power systems. There was zero tolerance for failure. My personal stuff does fail. There is no way I'm going to spend the time and money needed to guarantee I'll ride home. Just pulled a nail out of my tire. Now I'm packing spare plugs but I don't have a pump. It never ends.

these were pointed out to me by andrew @mgcycle as replacement intake sleeve which is in stock https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=42

Odd thing to do. But it does give the exhaust a better shot out the back. The heat issue, that is another thing. And the intakes in front like that no doubt work horribly. For comparison, it would be like sticking your head out a car window while moving (facing forward) and trying to breath in. Aerodynamics will actually make it harder to suck in air like that. Also funny, now Guzzi has finally designed and built a motor with the exhaust to the side and the intake into the center of the V. That is probably the ideal set up for a V twin Guzzi. The exhaust side gets its cooling, the intakes can be better designed and centralized, and the riders knees don't argue with the intake tract.

I know a number of people who's favorite aspect of their Ducati is all the clattering and mechanical noises they make. All that noise is just telling you that it is working. As long as you don't have a single plate clutch, it isn't a sign of impending doom.

Yes, thanks. I've back ordered a couple of those.

Did a bit more research regarding the air temp sensor, and found a nice thread on them. I'm hoping mine is tucked away somewhere under the tank in a modified 35mm film container Also found the intake boots might be hard to find.https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/23486-rubber-intake-boots/ Maybe I can wrap them with some high heat black tape till I locate replacement parts?

The greatest music has to be searched for .

docc I hear your fiddle in this

Yup, reversed camshaft.

I mean, it's still no Ballabio, @Bill Hagan . . . Yet . . . I'm havin trouble feelin' sorry for ya. (Ya had me goin' with the whole Norge thing . . . )

Bill, how do you like the V85tt ?

If the airbox connecting sleeves are deteriorated to the point of letting unfiltered dirty air being sucked into the TB’s, I believe it would be pretty critical to have them replaced.

Replace the airbox. K & N air filters don't and offer an easy way to diminish the life of your engine and offer zero performance advantage. The stock airbox works quite well. When I bought the 'Mighty Scura RC' many years ago the very first modification I did was refitting the stock airbox and both of the owners who have had it since I moved it on, (Chuck and Kidsmoke.) will attest that that bike, which has a fairly radically worked motor, goes like ordure off an earth moving implement!

The brass nipple at the left front is for the crankcase vent off the banjo bolt at the front top of the spine frame behind the headset. Square hole at the right front is for the air temperature sensor. You'll have to find where that has been put and put it back.

Have a look here. Wendel is kind enough to actually state the dimensions of some of the screws. Maybe it will help you. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/luftfilter-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031027.html As far as the rubber bits go: anything that looks old and deteriorated before the throttle bodies should be replaced in the course of time, but is not extremely critical. Between the throttle bodies and the motor is important. If anything there looks old, replace it. If you get air leaks there, it can do really weird things to the way the motor runs.

yeah yeah...ipso facto and cogito ergo sum... 4 years of Latin in school...got to love Caesar and The Gallic wars and a bit of Cicero. Fond memories of Declensions and Conjugations, Tenses, Moods etc... Just to piss off our old Irish, ex priest Latin teacher, we'd all sing from time to time: Latin is a language As dead as dead can be First it killed Caesar and Now it's killing me! QED

I also recommend reading the document called "How to remap your bike for CARC, Breva 750, V7 Classic, California 1100" found at the end of that hyperlink. It told me all I needed to know. I just went through this last week. http://griso.org/

At one time my Sport was on an Exhaust Gas Analyzer and the target air-fuel ration was correct when the CO Trim was set to zero. Remember that every time the V11 is started, regardless of temperatures, the ECU runs a rich map for a set number of revolutions. I forget the exact number, but over 4,000. The CO Fuel Trim only is active below 3,000 rpm and has its greatest effect at idle and very low throttle openings.

Look here:

"Sold the V11, bought a different bike". Really? Well sort off... I have always admired the look of the V11 with the higher mounted Titanium exhausts, and once came very close to buying a pair, however they were damaged and I liked the look of the original carbon-fiber ones on my Mandello Rosso better. So when a member on here offered a set of carbon high-mount Gianelli's for sale, I went for it. He also threw a Stucchi crossover into the deal (thanks Crazyhorse!). Mounted them last Tuesday. Oh my, what a sound! Not much louder, but a whole lot deeper. But, did I imagine it revving much quicker between 3000 and 5000 rpm? Went for a ride. I'm not sure how much is to contribute to the Gianelli cans or to the Stucchi crossover, but WHAT a difference in mid-range pull! From 3000rpms onwards she just goes and goes. Like I bought a different bike.

I followed @Lucky Phil's experience and advice and fixed 1 leaking tap. 2 more to go. Steps are: enlarge the O-ring grooves, machine an anti-rotation slot in the plunger, adapt screw to make an anti-rotation pin, tap a hole to the valve body, fit bronze anti-friction washers on each side of the knob, put sealant under the anti-rotation pin, assemble with fuel resistant grease. @cash1000 tells me that his modified tap is easy to open/close, and it doesn't leak.

There are a thousand petcocks that screw onto the tank just fine, but none have the 12mm outlet for the large hose to the fuel pump, and very few have a certainty of delivering enough fuel. Not only must it feed the engine as with carbs, but it must keep the pump well fed including what bypasses the regulator back into the tank. Pingel is the only maker I'm familiar with to rest assured the flow is adequate.

That color can grow on ya !

Our kinda lady, it seems! . . . . ‘Her idea of relaxation was to drive a fast car at full throttle, and if the car was not fast enough, her workbench was there in the back room to machine new parts to make them faster.’

The Waddington Effect sounds a bit like the story about Mrs Schilling's orifice. She developed a way to allow the early Solex carburettor equipped Rolls Royce Merlin engines to run inverted for longer. I suspect that my bike won't run inverted either. Do I need Beatrice's help? https://www.open.edu/openlearn/science-maths-technology/engineering-technology/beatrice-shilling-1909-1990#

It is called "infant mortality" nowadays, and is a consideration in a "reliability centred maintenance program". It's not the whole story, but the effect is real. https://blog.aopa.org/aopa/2014/02/11/roots-of-rcm/