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packed and off to Spain tomorrow

All apart from a short series of the 1100 motors produced for the Cali series in 2002-2004 have solid lifters. As for your current problem I would first drop the rocker out on the valve that jumped the pushrod. Chances are it's bent and will just keep repeating the failure until it snaps. If it's straight? Don't bother monkeying about. Just pull the head and barrel and check lifters, lobes and valves/guides. If the lifter has failed so has the cam so you'll have to replace cam, lifters and probably at least one pushrod. Take the heads to a head shop and get them serviced. If it needs a new valve or two? So be it. K-line the guides if they are worn or damaged unless they are loose in the head. If they are replace them.

Thanks Docc for renaming this properly. Do Guzzi's have hydraulic lifters? I assumed they were solid since the valves require adjustment.

Are you confident enough to gain access to the top of the valve to tap the top of the valve stem and see if it pops back with a good "pop" to verify the valve stem isn't sticking in the guide ? Make absolutely sure the piston is about halfway down the bore of the cylinder so the valve will not come in contact with the piston .

This is a 99 Cali EV. I have discovered that I mis-identified the noise as exhaust related. I did a compression check and found that the left cylinder was lower (140psi) than the right (170psi). I pulled the valve cover off again and discovered that the left intake pushrod had come out from under the tappet adjustment screw on the rocker arm. I re-adjusted the valves (.10 / .15) and ran a compression check and had good compression (170psi) on both sides. I buttoned everything back up and put the plugs back in to start. Within a few seconds the noise returned and while I was out of time to dig back in I am confident a have a pushrod out of place again. While I am new to Guzzi's I have maintained my own BMW Airheads and Oilheads for over 30 years and have done many valve adjustments. I have never seen anything like this. Short of reducing the valve clearance what should I look at?

I think failure will largely remain unpredictable. A few weeks ago, the main bearing of the coolant pump failed on my 911. This is after I completely overhauled the car, doing preventative maintenance on everything that may have required change. The coolant pump was declared in good state but nevertheless failed after I took the car out from the dealership. It occurred to me that the coolant pump failed because of that major maintenance that necessitated taking the engine down. Murphy's law is always dependable. If it works....

Good maintenance prevents failures. There wouldn't be an airline industry otherwise. Took them a long time to figure it out. I used to maintain emergency backup power systems. There was zero tolerance for failure. My personal stuff does fail. There is no way I'm going to spend the time and money needed to guarantee I'll ride home. Just pulled a nail out of my tire. Now I'm packing spare plugs but I don't have a pump. It never ends.

I know a number of people who's favorite aspect of their Ducati is all the clattering and mechanical noises they make. All that noise is just telling you that it is working. As long as you don't have a single plate clutch, it isn't a sign of impending doom.

Think I'll hydrate myself just thinking about it..... Then again it'll be wine o clock in t minus 4 hours! Cheers Ps be safe out there mate

I mean, it's still no Ballabio, @Bill Hagan . . . Yet . . . I'm havin trouble feelin' sorry for ya. (Ya had me goin' with the whole Norge thing . . . )

My airbox is off at the moment, so I took a look. The hex head bolts holding the airbox lid down are 6mm dia x1mm pitch, length 82 & 30mm from under head to end. The screws attaching the side panels to the airbox are button head chrome or SS 5 x 0.8mm 12 mm length. The brass nipple is for the engine breather hose from the banjo at the top of the spine. Any oil resistant low pressure hose will keep oil vapour from making a mess. There should be an air temperature sensor on the front of the airbox. If it's not there, the ECU will assume a default temp, and the engine will be out of tune if the air temperature is not 20°C. The 2 screws on the rear of the airbox attach angle brackets going to frame mounts. You need those. The engine is sensitive to air leaks, so replace the cracked intake boots. The designer took some trouble to optimise the intake system, and you are restoring to that. Expect the engine to run better over the rev range, and with proper air filtration, when you finish.

"Sold the V11, bought a different bike". Really? Well sort off... I have always admired the look of the V11 with the higher mounted Titanium exhausts, and once came very close to buying a pair, however they were damaged and I liked the look of the original carbon-fiber ones on my Mandello Rosso better. So when a member on here offered a set of carbon high-mount Gianelli's for sale, I went for it. He also threw a Stucchi crossover into the deal (thanks Crazyhorse!). Mounted them last Tuesday. Oh my, what a sound! Not much louder, but a whole lot deeper. But, did I imagine it revving much quicker between 3000 and 5000 rpm? Went for a ride. I'm not sure how much is to contribute to the Gianelli cans or to the Stucchi crossover, but WHAT a difference in mid-range pull! From 3000rpms onwards she just goes and goes. Like I bought a different bike.

Yeah on my previous build i I put in a 180 and it messed up the profile. Thank you for clearing this up. It is becoming harder and harder to source lightweight wheels. im working on a prototype adaptor to use single sided wheels. We were able to successfully adapt MV Agusta and Ducati wheels but it took a lot of parts, I’m trying to simplify it, but it will take time, in the meantime I’ll throw a 2003, 5.5 wheel.

And, yet, I need new front tire. And "should" bleed the brakes, check/change wheel bearings, maybe change the brake pads, and otherwise have to remove and retorque the axle and caliper mounts. "What could possibly go wrong ?" Waddington might say, "About 400 miles of road time will tell the tale."

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Yeah, it's all dos-y-dos until the single point of failure. I don't want to be That Guy. Again.

Docc, don’t worry about the clock, reset or not, W affects or not. Quit wearing watches 30+ years ago. Take care of the gal, and think about the 6000 rpm song. . Cheers tom