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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/21/2023 in all areas

  1. The op of my Lemans installed Formotion clock & thermometer. The clock failed last year, Formotion doesnt repair that particular model so instead of spending $50+ on a new one I opted for a $10 Wally World unit. I picked out one having a similar black/white color scheme, removed the band, added velcro and stuck it in place, good to go. If I wasn't so lazy , I woulda Dremeled off the band uprights and touched up with black paint.
    4 points
  2. I wish Motus had made it. They were a bit pricey but I was excited about them and would have liked to have had one.
    3 points
  3. A Ducati helmet on a Moto Guzzi 🤐 (just kidding!)
    3 points
  4. After a little bit of reading on their site, they do offer a non-flammable version which does not use mineral spirits and therefore will not swell rubber.
    3 points
  5. There are those of us who are such fans of what Caig DeOxit® does for connectivity across fuses, relays, switches, and connectors. Yet, as @PJPR01 recently pointed out, connector seals can swell and tear from DeOxit exposure. Specifically, the green Metri-Pack seal on the V11 TPS and the Casper's TPS Breakout Harness. But also the yellow TE AMP SuperSeal connectors in the rest of our wiring harness(es). See how this 5-position AMP connector seal swelled after exposure to DeOxit? Once the tank was back on, that connector was not connected and the tank had to come back off and the connector compressed with a clamp, then "zip-tied" to make connection . . . I plan on replacing the seals at next "tank off." Yet, the seals are not available separately. The TE/AMP connectors are available from various suppliers including Gregory Bender. Buy the connector, slip off the seal as a replacement. See the link, above, for sources of the TPS 3-position "Metri-Pack" connector/seal. Otherwise, be aware that while Caig DeOxit® is electron-magic, it will swell these seals and make them vulnerable to tear and possibly interfere with the connector reliably engaging/connecting.
    2 points
  6. I owned a Multistrada earlier, I have a ducati leather jacket as well😀
    2 points
  7. Specific seal damage/tear on the Metri-Pack 3-position connector seal from my TPS next to a new seal (the damaged seal on my TPS Casper's Breakout Harness looks similar):
    2 points
  8. SOLD @gstallons I received your check yesterday, and should be able to ship this today during my lunch. USPS tracking #9505 5128 5921 3172 8537 66
    2 points
  9. I couldn't find this relay mount on Greg Bender's site, but did find that he offers individual TE AMP SuperSeal connectors, from one to six positions, for those of us who may need to replace damaged seals. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_close_outs.html
    2 points
  10. I often get comments after the first stint like, "Is your brake light and brake light switches working?" Followed by "How do you ride that brisk without braking?" The best one was "I am not going to ticket you today, as your brake light tells me you're riding well within yourself, but slow down. Have a safe day."
    2 points
  11. "Sold the V11, bought a different bike". Really? Well sort off... I have always admired the look of the V11 with the higher mounted Titanium exhausts, and once came very close to buying a pair, however they were damaged and I liked the look of the original carbon-fiber ones on my Mandello Rosso better. So when a member on here offered a set of carbon high-mount Gianelli's for sale, I went for it. He also threw a Stucchi crossover into the deal (thanks Crazyhorse!). Mounted them last Tuesday. Oh my, what a sound! Not much louder, but a whole lot deeper. But, did I imagine it revving much quicker between 3000 and 5000 rpm? Went for a ride. I'm not sure how much is to contribute to the Gianelli cans or to the Stucchi crossover, but WHAT a difference in mid-range pull! From 3000rpms onwards she just goes and goes. Like I bought a different bike.
    2 points
  12. Thanks docc. I'll have a look at that thread tomorrow.
    1 point
  13. When my Bitubo leaked, I went without it for a while, but found I liked a little assistance (resistance?) in tight steering lock during parking maneuvers. The likelihood that a V11 would throw a wobble/tank slapper is rather slim. Lots of members have removed theirs with no ill effects. Too much damping and the V11 (especially the early ShortFrame) can suffer from high speed weave (very different from "wobble"). The early Sports were known for this and my dealer advised to set the damping to minimum. [edit: I found the weave to be multi-causal and solved it with suspension changes, sag set-up, tire type/pressure selection. Very early RedFrames had carry-over triple trees that can be problematic.] HyperPro offers a selection of dampers that fit (I'll look for that thread). We have another, highly contentious, one thousand three hundred seventy-two posts/ 115 page thread that ended locked, a member ejection, two other members leaving, and the forum being put on probation. We are passionate beings about things like damping, you know . . .
    1 point
  14. No, go down a bit. You're looking for # 1 901 355 975. The second last column with the grey background, 100 or 50 or 25, is the number of units in a package ( Stück je Packung ). The part number is the last column; "Bestellnummer", 10 digits. In the first grey column from the left, see "Flachsteckhülse mit Rastnase". The Rastnase is the barb that holds the receptacle in the relay base.
    1 point
  15. That color combo always gets me thinking of putting a leather seat on my Sport and mounting a Stucchi flyscreen in that delicious "Tenni" green . . .
    1 point
  16. You guys use spray deoxit? I have little tubes, setting a single drop directly on the contacts. I don't think I ever get enough on anything to get to the rubber- and just as a matter of habit (won by hard experience) I let everything dry for a couple minutes before I reassemble pretty much anything anywhere. Still, important information.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. I was excited about them too. It was really ahead of everything else . Things just didn't work .
    1 point
  19. It seems to be a Bosch part. I also noticed the circular Logo that docc identified further up. I'm assuming that Bosch is also fairly common in the USA. Here, any useful auto-electric shop should be able to source Bosch parts. I quick search in the interweb also produced a number of hits. If Greg Bender has them, good. He deserves the custom. What I'm getting at is, I don't think one needs to get too concerned about sourcing the things. It is apparently nothing particularly special, just an off-the-shelf Bosch part.
    1 point
  20. I Googled this question last night and came up with nothing . These connectors are in the AC delco / Packard family and I looked for compounds that could be used with them . Found nothing . I am sure these were intended to be installed dry but IDK what CAN be used w/them . I use the MC electrical grease on Deutch connectors only to make it easy to disconnect in the future .
    1 point
  21. Hmmmm . I wonder what the manufacturers recommend on these connections ?
    1 point
  22. DeOxit is great stuff on electronics but not really great on rubbers. 75% of its formulation is mineral spirits. https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d5s-6-lmh/
    1 point
  23. Thanks Docc. I had the dimensions and photos from that thread printed out and took them to a few places around and nobody was wanting to do it. I don't have the tools necessary for cutting metal to do it myself.
    1 point
  24. Docc. Call Greg.....480-416-6474. I don't think everything he has available is posted at the website. Art
    1 point
  25. I had the Stucchi X-over on my V11. Made a big difference in the mid-range. Trouwens, die RM ziet er prachtig uit!
    1 point
  26. FWIW, Greg Bender….https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness.html I got my "dovetail mount" relay recepticle from Greg so I could add a high current starter relay and piggy backed it on to the other existing relays. Art
    1 point
  27. Purchased both clock and temperature gauges for my Le Mans. I used the fairing on both sides, left and right, and both screws holding the dial to the bracket sheared. If you look at the size of the screw that holds the instruments, you will understand why. It is not Guzzi vibration proof. I purchased some rubber blocks to bolt the bracket on, but if is even worse. the gauge vibrates even more. Formotion replaced them free of charge, but I now carry them in my tail bag....
    1 point
  28. And enough of this "hippo skull" talk! Chicks dig these things like nothing else . . .
    1 point
  29. Ah, yes, what I thought might be an "E" in a circle logo looks to be Bosch:
    1 point
  30. Not exactly, but close. Our mounting blocks "dovetail" together, between each, and each has a mounting tab, with hole, on "the back side". I can't get an image that is clear. Looks like: 3 334 486 065 and a logo that maybe looks like an "E" in a circle. edit: Okay, here we go: https://rct-global.com/part/base-to-suit-micro-relay-mountable-bosch-3-334-485-045/
    1 point
  31. In the Northwest, drops of water on things is perfectly normal...
    1 point
  32. Probably better in "How to . . . " which allows for replies, whereas FAQ does not. I've seen @footgoose's Tenni in person and that tail is tidy, indeed. Combined with the way he groomed the Titanium exhaust, the the entire back of the bike is transformed. Well, certainly compared to mySport that looks like it's carrying a tarped-down high and heavy load . . .
    1 point
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