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Received mdi CF alternator cover (35% off, supposedly, at $65). Originally intended for the Tenni, but I'm not blown away by the look of the matte plain weave -- and already have a smorgasbord of different CF on her -- thus, this new CF bit ended up on Bubbles. Definitely looks better than the painted alloy cover, but showcases the dramatic need for a thorough cleaning. The irony of putting a new part on the parts bike is not lost on me.

Well it’s all back together now and the play in the bevel box is gone. I wish id read about greasing the shaft splines before trying to get it together 🤬 Many thanks for the tips and advice though….always appreciated.

Nice of the rider to lift his foot so the photographer could get a complete shot of the side.

Or just ride it as it is, or the basis for a "built not bought".

I haven't heard from Greg in ages, so I believe this is dead in the water. I would still like to replace the CF hump/cowl on the Tenni, so I will make some inquiries (though pretty low life priority). Perchance I find someone to make a batch, I'll just get a bunch and sell them off. I won't get anyone's hopes up in the meantime.

hesitation and vibration could be tps.

@footgoose Well, a Rickenbacker bass is (nearly) always a good thing.

I've also seen a carbed 1100 sport with a chromed version which looks pretty good too! Being chrome it would probably be easier to keep clean and looking good longer? Cheers Ps Doc with 200k +.... she's allowed a wee bit of er patina.

Oi !

That looks good mate. The standard one looks manky pretty quickly.... But it's in the firing line so to speak. Cheers

It looks like a parts bin special alright. I am inclined to go with it being a 2002 year early Le Mans, it has the first generation switchgear as fitted to the original Sports. The clipons being under the top yoke and the hollow front axle only muddy the waters. At that price it would be the perfect candidate for cannibilisation. Rob

As I thought yours was. I don't believe there were many 'chin pad' tanks without the actual black soft pad, but thought it worth a mention.. so averting/creating confusion. I can't say I've seen any other painted chin pad tanks other than on the Tenni. May be exclusive though I've seen several Tenni pictured with the black pad. Curious

just to clarify.. some (mine) of the 'chin pad' tanks came with no pad. Still a removable piece, only plastic and painted color of the tank.

I suppose it is also vaguely possible that you got a bad tank of fuel. You'll know better yourself if the petrol station in question might be sloppy enough to have bad fuel in the pump.

Los Lobos is a great band. @KINDOY2

Yes, I believe it is. 10th. digit is "2", long frame (black), long tank (no pad), dark background on the gauges, but wrinkle paint on the motor. Also, the ECU is one of those 15M with a paper sticker on it. On the paper sticker it says "2002 Le Mans", but reliable sources have told me it is more than likely a re-programmed California ECU that went back as a warranty claim and got re-programmed in the factory and used for the V11.

Some more pics from MCN

It's the crossover model with the long frame, short tank and a plastic cover on the frame at the steering head to help disguise the gap between the front of the tank and the steering head caused by the tank frame comb. Phil

I'm a Yes fan. Awaken is a pretty good Yes tribute band. More here https://awakentheband.com/live

Added the MPH riser kit to my 2000 V11 Sport two years ago. They work well. They are pretty solid due to the "agricultural" look. Most difficult part was bleeding clutch slave cylinder. Somewhere on this forum I read about leaving the reservoir about half full for proper expansion. Worked great. Also installed speed bleeders, very handy.

When i bought my Lemans (in 2015, used) I removed the rear wheel to perfom a bunch of routine maintenance stuff like clutch fluid replacement, inspect & lube drive shaft & drive splines, ujoints, wheel bearings, etc. Well, much to my surprise, I found that large washer inside of the gearbox drive splines. Although the washer only allowed about half spline engagement, no damage occurred to either gearbox or wheel drive splines. I suspect that whomever did the rear tire change had no Idea where the large washer went so they tucked it in between the wheel & gearbox even though the i.d of the washer was drastically larger than the o.d of the axle. Yeah, I'm glad I took time to do the needful, it would have made me sick if the drive splines on either the wheel or gearbox had been damaged.

Along with a throttle body synch (and, perhaps, the full Decent Tune-up), inspect the rubber throttle body connections to the intakes for leaks or looseness/ "popped off" as well as inspecting the various sensor electrical connectors that one has not come unplugged. While you're inspecting, look at the various exhaust junctions for anything loose or leaking . . .

Is the vibration felt in the bars or foot pegs? How long since the cylinders were synchronized?

Well I placed my order for SpeedHut replacement gauges. Just under $500 out the door. I went with the design below. The background is gray instead of white. I really wanted them to glow red at night and they did not offer a white face/red glow option. So I went with gray. I think they look pretty good! I'm sure I'll be stopping back by this thread after they are delivered when I go to attempt the installation.

That is some lovely kit!

I've got a set of Boehm Manometers which I really like. https://www.boehm-synchrontester.de/ I generally strap them to the pillion seat with ocky straps. They don't care if they are upright or lying down.

My ears are ringing.

Yeah, I use an old camera tripod to suspend my Motion Pro manometer for carb/throt body sync tasks and have not burned through the manometer hoses (yet). I have, however. cooked the wiring of my inductive timing light/tachometer on a few occasions....I hate when that happens. on the Decent Tune Up.

Last night I finally completed my Decent Tune up. I got my throttle bodies balanced and set the idle. I did have a little issue with the tubes from the Carbtune. I originally hung the Carbtune from the handlebar like the instructions tell me too, unfortunately I didn't notice right away that the routing caused the tube to be in contact with the engine. After I was making good progress on the tuning, the bars in the tuner started to not respond and were behaving strangely. I tuned off the bike to take a break and saw that I had melted one of the tubes... So after fixing that and using my lawnmower handle to hang the Carbtune towards the back of the bike and route the tubes clearly away from the engine I had no problem getting the carbs synced up. I did have a little overheating issue prior to getting the idle set despite having a fan blowing on the engine during tuning. However, after I let it cool down, I got the idle set nicely and took her for a spin. Wow, this bike is just so pleasing to ride! Makes me feel guilty that I don't pay as much attention to my V7 anymore...