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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/04/2023 in all areas
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I've used Penrite pretty much exclusively for thirty years. If your clutch is slipping it's not the choice of oil. There are a host of possible causes but the oil type isn't one of them.4 points
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BTW, this is the rebuild kit I used. Brembo number: 110436292 I questioned the MG Cycle "rectangular" description and that the V11 is not in the applications list, yet there we have it . . . https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=51963 points
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I did! Clutchless shifting the last five miles. And I suppose I did run that one stop sign, technically. Just test rode the rebuilt clutch master cylinder.2 points
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Yeah, my Lemans speedo indicates 70mph while the Garmin is 64-66mph. It doesnt bother me. However, I put a Speed Hut "Speedo Healer" on my Wing because speedo error was an irritant when leading group rides. The speedo healer allowed me electronically recalibrate the speedo so it is accurate at 70mph.2 points
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Area around vent hose looks dry but from what you say it could be the cause of both problems. Think I will go with oil I know2 points
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The only way any Gearbox oil would cause your (dry) clutch to slip would be a leak, no matter what oil is in the box . . . You have been all back and forth through this, though, haven't you @cash1000 ?2 points
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From the album: '03 V11 Lemans
I added the HC Starter Relay Harness to eliminate passing high inrush current to starter solenoid through the ignition switch based on some comments I read in the forum. My own current draw tests appeared to be very low/minimal. However, should the starter solenoid become marginal, the higher draw of the solenoid could damage the ignition switch...imho. I bought the HC Starter relay, base, fuse and harness from Greg Bender at This Old Tractor. It is s nice easy install..the relay base slides onto the existing starter relay base, Red to Batt+, Black to Batt-, spade connctors are routed to starter - Female spade to starter, Male spade to exiting starter solenoid feed wire. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_ordering.html1 point -
Its an Indian video, but it shows the beautiful country side that Docc rode thru along w the distillery.1 point
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Darius is right about the ring prying out (no Dremel required). There is always a measure of satisfaction getting eyes and fingers on the definitive source of trouble. This is the jumble I found the spring in: Four pieces, again:1 point
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cash do this , # 1 start your bike and allow it to warm up as you normally do. # 2 pull your clutch lever all the way in and release the lever 10 Xs in a row # 3 put the bike in gear and take off as normal # 4 did you notice ANY difference ? # 5 after you get going for a while, get your bike in 3rd gear and go as slow as possible and roll on the throttle . Does the clutch slip when you do this ? # 6 do the clutch pull test again 10 Xs after the bike is completely warmed up after you get through with your ride. Did you notice ANY difference in the before and after ?1 point
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The law here in Germany and in Australia is similar. The speedo is not allowed to show less than the real speed, and the abberation is allowed to be, if I remember correctly, up to 10% above the real speed. I assume that the USA has a similar regulation, because it makes a certain amount of sense. Yes. My V35 Imola shows 120 km/h where the Garmin shows 100 km/h. Doesn't surprise me with 40 year old Veglia instruments. Maybe I'll get it calibrated one day. The Kawasaki GTR is pretty good. Speedo is very close to the Garmin, but just under. My car, an Opel Astra, shows a couple of km/h less than the Garmin. Indicated 160 km/h is really about 153 km/h, and the difference gets less as speed decreases. Real 50 km/h is indicated 53 km/h or 54 km/h, depending on whether the summer tyres or the winter tyres are mounted. I haven't checked the V11 Le Mans yet, as I don't have a mount on it for the Garmin yet. Going by the speed of other traffic, it indicates a little over the real speed, but I wouldn't expect anything else. Indicated 100 km/h seems to be pretty close to reality, as I don't get "bothered" by other traffic on country roads.1 point
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My clutch lever action has been compromised for a while (lever getting closer and closer to the grip). I have adjusted the lever as far out as it will go and turned the actuator screw in as far as possible. Today, riding in very high temperatures (95ºF/35ºC), the lever moved clear to the grip and finally gave up. I can see a little fluid at the master cylinder plunger, so I know I can't put the rebuild off any longer. First M/C rebuild at 62,000 miles/ 100.000 km. Another 68,000mi/~110.000 km has elapsed since then. Fair to say that I work the clutch actuation A LOT; love to row the gears. Very curious to see if the internal spring is in multiple pieces, again . . .1 point
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From the album: '03 V11 Lemans
A closer pic of my relays. Replaced the 20+ year old original equipment ones with CIT brand based on a discussion "Best Relay" on the forum. However the 6th H/C starter relay for the starter is a Picker PC782-1C-12S-R-X, NO:30a/14vdc, NC:25a/14vdc, SAE1171, UL1500, ISO8846 and was supplied by Greg Bender with the relay base & wiring....fwiw.1 point -
I mean, it's still no Ballabio, @Bill Hagan . . . Yet . . . I'm havin trouble feelin' sorry for ya. (Ya had me goin' with the whole Norge thing . . . )1 point
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Even four weeks out, I ran out of time for the Kentucky SpineRaid. Got that sorted now. I will need a new rear tire before the SSR XIX. And, well, you know . . . that slippery slope that goes with a tire change . . .1 point
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