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I will point out that adding preload does not make a spring stiffer. If the spring is too soft adding preload will raise the ride height but the spring is still too soft. Start with the basics. Set preload to where you need it to get the desired ride height. Then see what sag with you off the bike is, and that will tell you if your spring is too soft, too firm, or right. I don't run as much sag as most do, I am closer to Pressureangle with what I run for sag. I don't need a lot of droop available in a street bike. A dirt bike, sure. But not a street bike, especially a sport bike. But setting sag doesn't change spring rate. If the spring is too soft, add preload and it is still too soft. It is easy enough to replace the rear shock with a higher quality unit, especially if you have the Sachs. Upgrading the front forks is easy if you have the newer forks, they offer cartridges' that drop in and improve the performance of the stock forks. If you have the earlier front forks you need to fix the internals of the forks to even have proper dampening. Without that, the adjusters are meaningless. Add either an o-ring on the fork tube or add a small zip tie to the fork tube so you can see if your harshness on large bumps is the forks bottoming or the fork valving not letting the fork absorb the bump.

What Paul Thede said in 1985 is not relevant, and I only know one guy who ran his stuff that loose on the racetrack; he was very fast, but we swapped bikes once and I could not ride it *at all*. Back then frames were spaghetti and tight suspension flexed frames causing head shakes, wobbles, etc. I set my sag front and rear at about 1/2-3/4" depending on where I am. For general riding I go a little loose, for curvy riding a little tight. Damping adjustments depend on speed and road surface. Simply put, wallowing is due to not enough spring and trying to tighten it up with damping only makes it harsher and worse due to the inputs. Tighten up your sag to 1/2" without sitting on the bike, and set the damping somewhere in the middle and try that.

Let me Let me suggest a couple examples of what this thread is about: "music" [action reported, as usual]

The very first guzzi tune up & fueling balance I ever did,was on my CX100. That bike has a "country clutch";the clutch grabbiness on that bike decreased immensely,after the fueling was balanced. Just a WAG,but if your basic tune & balance is way off; it probably adds to the grabbinesss. The prospect of some of the finer details can be intimidating, but tuning these guzzis so they're running sweet, is one of life's greatest pleasures. fwiw ymmv

A black Quat-D on a Scura ExtraDark . Now, that's just . . . . edgy . . .

Yes, the angle of the throttle cable to the bell crank can be problematic and even fray/break strands of the cable. Simple to inspect and correct:

May be no difference, just knowing where it's set. Does she she need a second coming back to idle ? Inspect trottle wire, specialy where it's connected to the trottle body. Seems the bracket can be bendt a little releaving some strees for the fine wire. Cheers Tom.

If it was closer to me and going for a lower price, I'd have been tempted to get it just for the black Quat D exhaust to stick on my Scura. Otherwise, it does seem a fine machine.

Is it coming back

Don't worry about the day light/tail light/Fuse 6. That is a separate circuit with no relay. So, you have power from Fuse 5 to the #2 relay? But no power to pull in the relay coil with the ignition switch on? I would be inspecting the Ignition Switch for a broken wire where they are soldered onto the switch.

Looks like you have a spare 10mm open end wrench. Most people carry them in their tool pouch.

Not sure where this goes on the forum, wow…

Don't grab at straws , do methodical evaluations and testing.

cash do this , # 1 start your bike and allow it to warm up as you normally do. # 2 pull your clutch lever all the way in and release the lever 10 Xs in a row # 3 put the bike in gear and take off as normal # 4 did you notice ANY difference ? # 5 after you get going for a while, get your bike in 3rd gear and go as slow as possible and roll on the throttle . Does the clutch slip when you do this ? # 6 do the clutch pull test again 10 Xs after the bike is completely warmed up after you get through with your ride. Did you notice ANY difference in the before and after ?

Today's fun project...opened up the headlight and took the broken diffuser out - super easy to do. Have now re-glued it with Loctite glue as the diffuser had just cracked about a quarter inch down from where it's anchored in, we'll see if it holds or if vibrations break it again. I may try a bit of extra JB weld on it as well to reinforce a bit. Will also call Stein Dinse next week to see if they just sell the diffuser as mentioned earlier here...upgrading the small bulb to a brighter LED...we'll see how that works, but leaving the main bulb alone. Hard to find any after market headlamps that have the exact plug and play wiring, so worst case scenario, will spring for the upgraded Stein Dinse version...I wonder how much brighter it is than stock.