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That any inaugural South'n SpineRaider would still come lift a glass with us is humbling. Even if his toast is, "I had a Spine, once! "

Just a comment about using a white LED behind a green dash panel lens. I believe that you would get a brighter and more noticeable dash indication if you use a green LED instead of white. A green lens filters out all visible light except green. Only green can pass through, and the rest is absorbed. So, all the light from a green LED passes through the lens with no loss, because it is only green emission. LEDs have a very narrow light emission spectrum (except white LEDs). Your white LEDs are most likely blue or UV LEDs with a phosphor over the emitter surface which glows (sort of bluish) white. Then only some of this white light can pass through the lens, assuming that the bluish white light has some green component to its output. There are two losses in this. 1/ Blue to white conversion inside the LED, and 2/ white filtered by the dash panel lens, to leave only green. This means that a white LED will be dim compared to a green LED when viewed through a green dashboard lens. The same logic applies to red taillight LEDs (better than white LEDs), and amber indicator lights (better than white LEDs). EDIT If those white superbrights are bright enough when installed, then ignore what I wrote above.

I believe those resistor pairs will allow the use of the stock mechanical flasher. They have since started to make digital flashers that cost less than the resistors. The resistor pairs will not solve the indicator lamp problem. You need two indicator lamps, one for each side. I kind of like the ones installed in mirrors, some place I'll see them.

Here, it is actually the opposite; sadly.... the new normal is to never signal, or to signal too late. When I see a turn indicator flashing, however rarely, it is because it was forgotten on. True, it is difficult to have your phone in one hand, and signaling at the same time when you only have one hand for the steering wheel. Hopefully, when all cars will be driving themselves autonomously, the situation may improve. At least we are certain motorcycles will never be able to!!!

This is FWIW, of course. I was fortunate enough to have a playground in SoCal, so after the Mighty Scura taught me to properly ride (I was a clueless midwesterner) I spent many happy hours playing with suspension settings in the canyons. After setting sag for my weight, here is what I came up with. From Scura records: Suspension settings: set front shock compression +3 from full soft, rebound+6 from full soft. Rear suspension Rebound 24 clicks from full soft, compression 12 clicks from full soft. Fork spring: 04745-95/L357

G'day folks Thanks for that input Doc and Guzzimoto. I may just reset the compression damping by going to fully closed and then open by 13 clicks ... This should realistically put me where I'm at now with C3 but just guaranteeing that it is a genuine + 3 from full open and see how that goes? Maybe I'll also try Rebound fully closed then open by 6 clicks to give + 12 from full open..?This would theoretically be about 3/4 in... Well I never got to ride my fun way home tonight so couldn't fully test my changes a bit more....Bugger! Still where I'm at now is WAY better than it was before I had the work done. Looking forward to some free time to ride and decent weather to test these changes! Cheers Guzzler

The reason the rotors wear so much now is , The friction material is harder than in the past , The rotor is lighter (less metal) than in the past. This is done to reduce unsprung weight. this is giving up the width of the rotor and in turn heats up FASTER and wears out faster .

I filed off a lot of the encapsulating resin of square LEDs to make them fit.

I don't know what your budget is, but I'm with my wife and we decided to splurge a bit. We're staying at the Villa Lario 2km north of the factory. And today we did a 2 hour tour of Lago di Como in a 1958 Riva Tritone. You only live once... Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Finally made it here! Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Years ago I read up a bit on this Krajka effort Fascinating story - one of my favourites Looks like the factory has restored it

Once again, I heartily recommend spending the money to get custom moulded earplugs. Mine look much like these (one of the current models from the manufacturer of mine, which are about 15 years old) They are made of a fairly solid silicon compound, and are actually easier to get out than to put in.

G'day folk's Thanks Chuck... Sounds like you had the mighty Scura set up pretty similar to my greenie! As mentioned I'm going to wind mine back full in and then work back out to C 3 and R 9 instead of full out and work back in and test. I'll test this to see if any difference and may try R @ 12. Will report again when I can. Cheers Guzzler Ps LG it is worth persisting mate, as these things are a lot of fun in the twisty bits....

Hopped on my V11 this morning to head to work and I find the fuel line leaking, probably just needs the clamp tightened as they're newer. With the helmet still on, I park the V11 and hop on the V7. It has an AK fork upgrade and Wilbers shocks. Sheesh, NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE. I really need to work on the V11, I'm missing out on what could be…

All I did was buying some cheap relays for led lights, even adjustment for rate. Was it 10$ for 5, so how will they last ? Cheers Tom.

Has anyone tried an inline resistors with the LED turn signals to regulate the flashing? I am contemplating this upgrade and have a few of these laying around. https://www.af1racing.com/OXOF374-Resistor-Pair

I wear these earplugs which are great for reducing wind noise and other high pitched sounds. Its nice with the little keychain case so I always have a place to put them when I take them out. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Protection-Motorsports-Parachuting-Open-Topped/dp/B08FDH1XKL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motorcycle+ear+plugs&qid=1689253641&sr=8-3 I have a Cardo Freedom 4x with the upgraded JBL speakers in my helmet. I really like it. The sound for music is much better than the Sena one I have for my second helmet. The Cardo also integrates with Siri on my iphone. So I leave the phone in my jacket pocket and have complete voice control over music, phone calls, text messages, and GPS directions. Also the Cardo has a build in FM radio which is nice sometimes, but the antenna is so small that I only pick up the strongest radio stations.

Three more monkeys and that damn thing would have "come from together!"

Rent a bike at Agostini's and ride! Go to the Ice cream parlor on the water downtown...its the local town hangout in the evening.

Not all needle valves flow the same, but generally any needle valve will see the biggest changes in flow when it is near closed and as it is further open changes in the valve opening have less and less effect on flow. As the needle gets further from the seat, a given change in distance from the seat has less impact on flow. The same amount of change when the needle is close to the seat has a larger percent impact on flow. But to be honest, that isn't that important. It's main relevance is that if you need to adjust your adjusters to near the end of the range of adjustment you may need to fundamentally change the valving instead to get the adjuster back into the meat of its range. Also, while I am fine with guzzler basing his counts on how far from fully open, general consensus on needle valves is you start from fully closed and count from there. That is because fully open can be different, it is not a set and specific point. But fully closed is a set and repeatable point to start from. A fully closed needle valve is the same point every time, even between different bikes.

I haven't been on the bike for several weeks now...just not enjoyable being outside in these conditions...the swimming pool is much more enjoyable!

+1 on starting with the correct springs. Also, apparently the damping adjustment is not linear. As in: half the clicks is not half the damping change. There is less change between clicks to start (from loose) and more between clicks at the high end such that half the damping change is found at about 3/4 of the clicks turned in. My reference for that is Peter Verdone. His site is also where I learned that choosing fork oil by "weight" is futile. He publishes a chart of common fork oils measured in centiStokes. http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

Almost forgot - best draught tap ever! Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Let me Let me suggest a couple examples of what this thread is about: "music" [action reported, as usual]

Not sure where this goes on the forum, wow…

You say that V11 engine noise a bit clogged? Nah… she’s fine mate! You’re good to go

I'm anxious to get a few more stops...at 20 so far! It may be September at this point unless we get a week in the 90's. With a heat index of 110 or above during the day, I'm probably going to have to ride at 5 am and watch for deer to avoid the heat. Not a great choice!