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Getting the whole thing this afternoon

Stay tuned..

Search the web for "Motorcycle Half Cover" - lots to choose from. Like this one: https://www.nelsonrigg.com/motorcycle-covers/half-cover-detail

I am lucky, I get to celebrate both now.... The difference is that in 1976 (just a "few" years ago then....) I was in the military and participated to the parade. This year, the Indian PM is the guest of honor. My next objective will be to descend the Champs-Elysées on my V11 Le Mans, for the posterity!

One of the most beautiful tanks/paint schemes of all time.

I can see this tank on a living room table, as a vase for some pretty flowers....

You tease... And if you're going to build a bike around a gas tank, that is a damn fine start.

thanks for all the suggestions! It is kind of an odd problem but important. I purchased the Etsy cover because I could get it in red...

Thank you for that explanation @MartyNZ I became aware of this when I first started to install LED emergency exit sign in commercial spaces. They come with interchangeable lenses in a 2 color option, red and green to satisfy specific code requirements by local jurisdictions. They are built with a double set of LEDs, you guessed it, one red and one green, controlled by a micro switch to allow matching the LED color to the chosen lens and optimize the light output through that colored lens.

Just a comment about using a white LED behind a green dash panel lens. I believe that you would get a brighter and more noticeable dash indication if you use a green LED instead of white. A green lens filters out all visible light except green. Only green can pass through, and the rest is absorbed. So, all the light from a green LED passes through the lens with no loss, because it is only green emission. LEDs have a very narrow light emission spectrum (except white LEDs). Your white LEDs are most likely blue or UV LEDs with a phosphor over the emitter surface which glows (sort of bluish) white. Then only some of this white light can pass through the lens, assuming that the bluish white light has some green component to its output. There are two losses in this. 1/ Blue to white conversion inside the LED, and 2/ white filtered by the dash panel lens, to leave only green. This means that a white LED will be dim compared to a green LED when viewed through a green dashboard lens. The same logic applies to red taillight LEDs (better than white LEDs), and amber indicator lights (better than white LEDs). EDIT If those white superbrights are bright enough when installed, then ignore what I wrote above.

Vive la Révolution, Vive la République et Vive la France! 🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷

MartyNZ is correct about white Leds. The 2 small arrows are too small a surface to get much light through. I went with my original plan, which is very easy to see, even in sunlight.

You know, great minds think alike.... I thought about carrying one with me for that purpose. It means that Jack experienced that issue too. The Quies extraction tabs are flat and they should work better than the Alpine which are cylindrical. They are slippery and not practical at all. Probably easier to manufacture.

I will certainly try your solution as well. This is the only way. I have not even tried my Quies just yet. My next run will be to Dallas and back.

FWIW.... https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_ordering.html Art PS - If a problem exists with ign., clutch, start button switches,wiring, etc., adding a high current relay will not solve an intermittent cranking issue. I think if I had an intermittent cranking issue I'd begin looking for weak areas ....switches! These bikes are 20+ yeas old, things go bad from sitting or age & use.

Well, I've just re-adjusted my forks... Dialed both Comp and Reb all the way back into full closed and counted back... So now Comp is a true + 3 from full open and Reb is a true +9 from full open. All I need now is for Moses to part the sea of responsibilities for a wee bit so I can go play in the hills...... Cheers Ps maybe he could put in a good word to the weather god (s) as well ?

You could use what I see Jack Miller use on MotoGP..

I recall that @guzziart sourced this harness from Gregory Bender/ ThisOldTractor:

What about adapting a car windshield sunscreen? They generally stow compactly and are for this exact purpose.

Years ago I read up a bit on this Krajka effort Fascinating story - one of my favourites Looks like the factory has restored it

I reckon a leather cover would be likely to get as hot as the tank itself, i.e. not much use. You need something that leaves an air space between the cover and the tank. If your cover is sitting directly on the surface of the tank, you wont get much heat protection. This sort of thing can be had fairly cheaply, and the cheap ones pack up fairly small as they are made from thin plastic fabric The problem is, because they are made from cheap plastic, they have a nasty habit of melting onto the hot exhaust pipe when you put them on straight after getting off the bike. For the specific purpose of protecting the tank, I would be inclined to make something out of the sort of material that cheap tents are made of. Velcro around the handlebars and the rear blinkers or something like that. Length appropriate to that, and width such that it hangs down to the bottom edge of the tank or thereabouts. That should be slightly over a square metre of fabric, which should pack up to about the size of a pair of thick winter gloves. Lead shot sewn into the edges along the length would help stop it flapping in the wind, or a cord in the middle down to the footpegs.

Once again, I heartily recommend spending the money to get custom moulded earplugs. Mine look much like these (one of the current models from the manufacturer of mine, which are about 15 years old) They are made of a fairly solid silicon compound, and are actually easier to get out than to put in.

I also wear full face helmets. I have not had any issues removing the ear plugs, they have a little tab that sticks out to grab them by. Can't do it with gloves on though. One note specific to my situation is that the bigger JBL speakers on the Cardo though don't fit completely into the pre-made speaker indentations in my helmet (HJC i10) which causes them to protrude a bit and rub on my ears when putting the helmet on. When this happens, the earplugs sometimes get dislodged while putting the helmet on and I need to get my fingers in there and re-secure them. This caused me to one time push the ear plug in too far and sideways which was not a good situation. I did have a little difficulty that one time getting it back out. But I blame this on user error and my specific helmet set up. When I use my other helmet (Sena Outrush R), without the big speakers I have no issues at all with the earplugs when putting the helmet on and off. There is a huge improvement of the Cardo Freecom 4x vs the built in Sena on the Outrush R helmet. Volume, sound quality, voice communication with Siri, voice communication with the Cardo system are all far better features that the Sena does not have.

I considered driving during the night too; but the heat is still present, and the danger is too great. I usually leave by 5:00 too, but even the morning hours are already suffocating. The Dallas stops are tempting, because only four hours away. I would have to overnight and come back in the morning. I don't want to travel just to make the stops. There is no fun in that. I am looking forward to go to Marfa to watch the stars.

Looks like you have a spare 10mm open end wrench. Most people carry them in their tool pouch.

Not sure where this goes on the forum, wow…

5 years/ 17,000 miles/ 27.500 km on this "Vintage Car" LED (my second LED after numerous attempts to enhance the H4). Great Hi- and Lo- beam patterns from the early Sport Bosch steel bucket reflector/lens. Not sure how this may apply the the later V11 plastic bucket . . . https://vintagecarleds.com/shop/bulbs-only/vcm3-bulbs-only/