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I would think of it as better to have the additional margin of safety you would get running premium. Since if it is an issue, you would not necessarily know it until it was too late and the damage is done. I would rather have extra safety margin. But to be fair, the V11 mill is fairly low compression and likely could run just fine on regular. But in certain situations it could become an issue. But true detonation is hard to hear, and the damage it can cause is serious. To me it is not worth taking the chance. I burn so little gas relatively speaking in my bikes that paying a little more per gallon is no big deal to me. Also, the octane requirements are greatly affected by air density. Lower air density means lower octane requirements for the same engine.

This just sounds like a classic case of the tappet riding the cam and holding the valve off the seat though.

Valve clearances are too tight. Check and set them at 4 & 6 thou inlet and exhaust. Tech probably set them to 2 & 4.

The symptom of a poor idle is typically valves too tight, if it is indeed something to do with the valves. It could be that it was also temperature affected. The tightness of the valves may have become more of an issue when the temperature got to a certain point. It is also possible that the valves are tightening up on their own. It is easy enough to check the valves on a Guzzi, and then you will know.

Interested. Message sent.

Good. The number of clicks doesn't matter, the suspension can't count, how the suspension works is what matters. It is a matter of more or less dampening to get it where it needs to be. Once you are happy, knowing where that happy point is is a good idea. But obsessing over numbers before you know where that happy point is is a waste of time in my opinion.

I rode about 100 miles or so, stopping often along the way to adjust both C and R. I've intentualy ignored how many clicks I'm selecting and instead am just concentrating on feel. More miles are needed, then I'll count the clicks and share my findings.

Funny thing with valve adjustments; there's a fine line between 'ok' and 'too tight' but a long spread of what's 'ok' on the loose side. Some race car stuff runs anywhere between .008" and .028", with guys fine tuning their throttle response and 60-foot times (drag strip stuff) with the small differences in valve timing. So the difference in felt drivability between *2-4 and *4-6 is astonishing, but the difference between *4-6 and *6-8 is probably barely noticeable. I keep mine at ~4-6. Ish.

I've heard of the tight 2/4 settings, but have long thought 6/8 best? Especially in these ambient hot temps . . .

I’ve decided to sell it. Fits my 2002 Scura. Will be packed up with meticulous care. Please make an offer. Shipping will be added at actual cost. This includes the complete system ready to install. Sale limited to the the U.S.A. as shipping internationally would more then likely be prohibitively expensive and I don’t know if it would meet regulations. You are also welcome to pick it up, I’m in West Michigan.

I purchased a set of Formotion dial gauges for my Le Mans in 2021. I installed them as shown below: Both were mounted on a metallic boss; on the first outing, the clock dial sheared from its support. For my last ride, I thought it would be useful to be able to read the temperature while in motion, instead of carrying the thermometer in my tail bag as I did up to now. Saturday I reinstalled the right bracket, this time on a rubber mount, to absorb the vibrations; For 700 miles, it worked. But suddenly, as I wanted to check the temperature, the thermometer decided to have a motion of its own. The temperature dial sheared from its support. It seems the design is a bit flimsy for something that should withstand subdued vibrations. I am going to report it to Formotion, but I don't think those gauges are Guzzi suitable.

Hello to all; I always liked the Coppas with the LeMans fairing. Anyone have any luck matching the paint, and if so who did you use. I actually have a Lemans fairing, but no Coppa; yet. Thanks in advance

Apart from all the marketing garbage there is one reason only to run an engine on high or higher octane fuel, detonation. If the engine doesn't have a detonation problem or the running environment or riding style precludes detonation events then high octane fuels are actually a slight disadvantage. Lower volatility of high octane fuels means harder starting, worse carburation in colder weather, poorer low throttle response, less intake air temp reduction due to latent heat of evaporation etc. If it doesn't need higher octane fuel then there is a tangible disadvantage in running it besides the additional costs. Maybe your bike is running richer than ideal and you were riding it at low loads and even in the hot weather you had enough detonation head room that it was ok. Of course maybe your hearing is suspect and you can't hear detonation and ping. Interestingly during the war the Germans had all sorts of issues with their high octane fuels causing engine bearing failures due to fuel dilution. To get the octane rating up and due to critical shortages they were using low volatility aromatics that didn't evaporate off effectively so the oil diluted permanently and cause bearing failures. I do know back in the mid 80's with the first injected 851 Ducatis that were raced tuners ran what they were used to using IE 100 octane avgas and they ran worse than on pump gas and I met a production bike racer at the TT back in 86 that ran it in his Kawasaki 600 at the TT in the production class and he said it carburated worse on the 100 octane. Phil

Yeah, yeah . . . that's what I meant to say . . .

Yes. Don't know about "amplifying", but it is bound to have a resonance frequency. If that happens to match a common engine speed on the guzzi, then the thing is on the way to self-destruction.

Joe, would you stop posting pictures like that please? Makes me get all sorts of funny ideas....

thanks for that link, turns out the workshop manual I purchased is missing those pages somehow.

If you can't find a specific reference, look at page 30 of this version of the workshop book under "standard values". https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf If the value is not specifically mentioned, it is fair to assume that the values there apply. And remember: the bolts on the valve covers don't hold the wheels on. They just have to be "tight enough".

That bike is giving me cold sweats thinking about it. Beautiful ride that looks sorted out from the pictures and descriptions and yes should be owned by a member here. CLEAN

Regarding the '95 Sport 1100, I wonder which museum he bought it from. Reading the description, we need to get the seller to join our forum! [emoji6] Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

I have had the same experience, yet choose to run premium. Since Shell introduced its V-Power Nitro+, I try to run that exclusively. My Sport certainly approves! Travel sometimes demands alternatives, yet mySport tolerates this as long as I have not neglected any aspect of her state of tune.

You are a French Frog? still are? I was for a long time too. Actually it is a pleonasm, because in the 60's when an UK person spoke about "the frogs", it was the French of course.... because the French liked to eat "strange things" such as Frog's legs and Snails. However I think this nickname has fallen in desuetude today. I think that with globalization, it was discovered that the French are not the only ones to eat "strange things". I know of friends who like "Foie Gras" too. When I was living in Paris, there was a pub named "The Frogs and Rosbifs". (For those of you who did not guess, "Rosbifs" was the counter nickname given by the French to the English people. "Rosbif" has to do with the presumed culinary habits in England. Anyway, good memories.

Thanks guys. @docc appreciate you sizing me the thickness to that little bugger.

Without wanting to denigrate Pete's no doubt valuable and accurate comment, regarding this, and only for the sake of general information because it was mentioned: I've read time and again, if that is suspected as a problem, spray brake cleaner at anywhere that comes in to the question as a potential leak point with the motor idling.. If there is a leak, the idles revs will change, and one has a starting point where to look.

A true tribute to the distiller's art.

Seize the day! By the balls with a pair of vice-grips.....

That's going to depend on the entire process. Given that we'll run these on idle machinery, the internal cost is pretty cheap. Can't give any numbers until the first piece comes off the mill.

G'day folk's Well I finally managed to get a ride in and properly try these new settings! Friday had the day off to take Dad to a meeting so the plan was to ride to Dad's and brother would drive the three of us to the meeting. The weather forecast for Friday was going to be 7 degrees and a sunny high of 13 but no wind or rain...you beauty! Of course it was nothing like that come 5.30am Friday, the scenario for Friday is now Saturdays forecast! Bugger it I've been hanging out to get a ride in for over a week now so sod it and into my wets and off we go. The rain has eased but roads are soaking (here goes my nice clean bike too!) so gassed up and we hit the twisty bits Drouin to Lang Lang.Bloody hell this feels good.I know I didn't get much of a chance to try the settings as before but having gone with Guzzimoto's suggestion and winding settings all the way in ( closed ) and counting back from there to get a true setting of +3 C and +9 R ( as opposed to counting back from full open ) I reckon it has made a difference! By this stage we're in the higher part of the road and it's now raining quite hard in bursts and there's a bit of muck from the various farms that face the road, but I notice more FEEL from the front which made light of the conditions! Ha ha I reckon I rode it a bit harder than I would normally do in the wet too. Interesting and looking forward to the ride home later. So the sun's out @ 1pm but it's drizzling at times by the coast ( at least no sign of the predicted hail ) and the Lang Lang to Drouin road is damp this time round as opposed to soaking as per ride in. I was going to behave but when fate tempts you with an open and clear road with no traffic on it what's a bloke to do....? Ha ha this road has a bit of everything open sweepers and some slightly tighter ones on leaving Lang Lang and the coastal flats then it tightens up as you climb into the tail end of the ranges ( about 200-250 metres altitude ) and run along up and down round and round before coming into Drouin.All up about 40 kays of fun but the road is tricky due to conditions in parts ie Road subsidence /overbanding/ potholes and on one climb, dips which have the bike airborne on two occasions.At the 100k speed limit it's actually fun but anything more and you need to pay attention so it's a VERY GOOD test for your suspension! I'm impressed at how much more feel I now have from the front end and will leave it at these settings for a while longer and ride more and on other roads to evaluate further. This road throws up some big hits and the old girl never deflected and when landing from airborne never bottomed and landed straight and true so I reckon I'm nearly there. I may try C4 R12 at some stage just to see how it goes.... But I'm thinking that maybe any further adjustments may have to come via shim stack for high speed compression on next suspension service?Then again this road would please the moto cross fans in the audience so we'll leave it be for a bit. Really looking forward to my next ride! Cheers Guzzler.

From Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans Riders Facebook: Q: So have my bike a day, done 300 km, ive noticed a little bit of oil on top of engine. Under the airbox. Drops down on the right side of the block above the gearbox. I figured it was the crankcase vent piping but although it needs changing doesn't seem to be the cause. The return to the airbox is on the other side of the airbox in relation to where the little puddle of oil is. What can it be from? A1: Look at the hose from the top of gearbox to the spine breather which I replaced and also I flushed the breather thru the frame by taking the big return pipe off at the banjo return to sump EDIT I pushed the kero thru the frame via the banjo near steering head Then i flushed thru with kerosene gun under air pressure to flush all the mayonnaise etc out of frame breather. I caught the old mayonnaise and oil as it came out of frame. Then pushed compressed air thru to blow all kero out etc. New crush washers on the banjo and then I did an oil change A lot of yucky mayonnaise and oil came out of frame. Once clear havent had any issues since Hope this makes sense. It clears out the breathing path from crankcase etc so bike breathes better when vapours circulated A2: when i first got the bike, none of the hoses were attached to the airbox, there was oil leaking all over the left cylinder, from the look of the pictures yours might just be from poor seals or cracked hoses. https://www.facebook.com/groups/129462630430089/permalink/6511112688931686/

I did! Clutchless shifting the last five miles. And I suppose I did run that one stop sign, technically. Just test rode the rebuilt clutch master cylinder.

Number 150s is in the south of Ireland. An Irish bike bought new in Kerry. Kept by an irish guzzi freak.

Just an “idea” right? Not a formal rally with a T-shirt.