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Remember the crank rotates clockwise when viewed from the front.

I wouldn’t say “louder” have a listen You should tune your ECM after any significant change. I run a power commander on it and it runs fairly well without being pro tuned…

On hot restart, make sure the fuel pump is primed and tank is vented. If it doesn't start due to that, open the gas cap and add fuel as necessary. Don't ask how I know this. Public service notice

which reminds me, I've had the recommendation many times to always rotate the motor "forwards" in to the position at which you are going to check your adjustments. This makes sure that the play in the cam chain etc. is all taken up properly the way it is when the motor is running. Turning the motor backwards could theoretically "move the play around" or at least have things at the "wrong" side of the lash movement. Turning the motor backwards whilst doing your adjustments wont break anything, but if you have need to turn it backwards for any reason, go forwards to where you want to get to as the last movement before checking adjustments.

Ummm, no, I won't go there....

This is a simple and easy explanation of how a four stroke engine works. I suggest you leave sound off so you don't have to listen to the irritating music! https://youtu.be/TEIhXNwfkL8

Sadly the listing was removed.. lucky for me

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256146760141?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=z2laZvJuS16&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=z2laZvJuS16&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I agree with Docc from Sept 2022, how do we get the ball rolling again?

I run my LS-3 6spm Corvette with the cheapest 87 ethanol gas on the pump, same as my Honda Accord. I've never felt a difference in the power or heard a ping. Air cooled big twins, perhaps you take off in 2nd and don't know it....yeah. BTDT. clack clack... Yeah, I baby my bikes, just because....I mean 4 gallons? I'd never worry if I needed gas to go and cheap gas was all that's available. I might granny the throttle a bit at first. I'd be more worried about the crap in the gas filter.

mark your alternator fin once you got it!

I have absolutely no doubt that they are talking about RON. The petrol pumps here in Germany have the octane value quoted in ROZ. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oktanzahl#ROZ For those too lazy to translate for themselves, ROZ = RON. Italy is EU, same as Germany, and such things are regulated here at the European Parliament level. The fuel specs that Guzzi stated in the late nineties and early 2000s were certainly RON. I did some searching and found this. It seems to have something to do with a Corvette. http://www.auto-tests-service.de/Service/Technik/Allgemein/Treibstoffnormen_EU_US.html Under "3. Stellungnahme" it says Directly under that is a table showing ROZ (= RON), MOZ, and the US RON/MOZ calculation. This Workshop Manual https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf specifies on page 20 that the V11 should be fuelled with "premium unleaded 95". Referring back to the nice table on the Corvette site, that should be 90 in US numbers, and not that much higher than the 87 octane mentioned in the openeing post. So 87 in US numbers would likely not cause any great problems most of the time. As a comparison: my V35 Imola is supposed to get minimum 97 RON. Awkward, as that doesn't fit into the modern standard very well. The lowest number available is 95, the next one up is 98. Ocasionally one lands at a petrol station that doesn't have the 98, so occasionally the Imola has to put up with the lower grade. To be quite honest, I have never noticed a problem with that. So I could imagine that US 87 would mostly not bother a V 11.

And, here, I have been anticipating the colorized P.Roper tutorial of: "Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow" . . .

Yes, watch the valves as you turn the motor. In combination with the "drinking straw", this will lead you to the "correct TDC". When you think you are there, if you can't move the rockers a little bit by hand (so that they click just a bit), either you are not there or the valve clearance is way too tight. More so than is reasonably likely. You are right, setting the valve clearance is more or less the same procedure on any 4 stroke petrol engine. If you are not that sure about how they work, look here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine There is an animated picture right at the top that shows how the valves are both open at the one TDC, and both closed at the other TDC where the engine fires (which is where you want to set the clearances).

I look at my exhaust valve going down and up and intake going down and up. Piston TDC, thats it. But again as Pete said, better to be safe. Good luck. Cheers Tom.

There is nowhere, anywhere, that has a Classified section like ours . . .

p6x BTW the Frog and Rosbif has been reproducing itself rather vigorously : https://www.frogpubs.com/pub-the-frog-rosbif-paris-1.php

I dated a girl in college that had higher calorific value ingedients (which made such a noticeable difference), but explosivity became a factor. I'm sure this adds no value to our discussion. Jus' sayin' . . .

And on the anchor's plinth: ETERNAL VIGILANCE IS THE PRICE OF LIBERTY

I am able to read the writing on the stone when I zoom in. For those who can't for whatever reason, here is what it says:

That's going to depend on the entire process. Given that we'll run these on idle machinery, the internal cost is pretty cheap. Can't give any numbers until the first piece comes off the mill.

No, mine's got what looks like it might be a sticker or perhaps paint, but nothing removable. Also, it has the fuel pump in the tank. As far as I can gather, the short tanks always had the external pump, didn't they? PS @docc I can see the movement of a few posts on the horizon. Sorry....