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Just wanted to share this with you. Amazing work

Amazing! But I don't think I saw a hammer anywhere on or near the Guzzi workbench...👍🤔😂

The manual has the original pressures, for the original tires. There should also be a sticker on the chassis that lists those stock pressures. Reality is by now no one should have the original tires still on their V11. So, while the original pressures make for a good starting point many will find that they prefer slightly different pressures with their current tire of choice. Generalities; less air pressure = more grip = more wear / more air pressure = less grip = less wear. Also, I find handling is lighter with more air pressure. That can be a good thing to a point, but too much air pressure beyond that happy middle ground tends to lead to a lack of confidence with the bike feeling "flighty".

In my experience, I found those pressures resulted in undesirable wear. I have had best outcomes with 2.4/2.8 bar , front/rear (35/40 psi). Mind you, this is a short frame Sport 120/70 front, 160/60 rear always with the panniers loaded and ridden like a jack rabbit on hot lava. YMMV!

My first recommendation would be to brush up on your Latino Spanish; I was in El Paso earlier on this year on my way back from adjacent New Mexico. My second recommendation is about the weather; it gets hot there too. Since you are from Florida, I am guessing you are prepared... If you are Guzzi mounted, staying for week-ends, you absolutely need to go to Alamogordo (NM). The White Sands National Park has been designed with a V11 in mind... You also have Pistachios and Wine... Closer to you is Van Horn Texas, gateway to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park.

I've looked at these pictures several times, with awe at how realistic they are. Then I noticed that a timing belt has been installed over toothed sprockets, which would last, oh, about 30 seconds. I hope he notices this and gets a set of gears from Joe Caruso before he finishes the rebuild.

I will now fuel with Premium. It really made a difference. On my 25 mile ride home, I repeatedly punched it with no pinging at all, at any speed. Who knew? …not me.

For moment, I forgot I was looking at scale models, instead of full-size motorcycles. Then, as I was scrolling through the pictures, I saw the hand of god, the creator.

I found this oil, still from Motul: Motul 31721L Gearbox 80W-90 Molybdenum Bisulphide (MoS2) Reinforced Extreme Pressure Gearbox and Differential Lubricant I also looked at the Molybdenum Sulphide additives and found that some only work with mineral oils, not synthetic ones. Dupont (reputable chemical company) has one: "Molykote M Gear Oil Additive" Finally, there is some interesting information about the use of Molybdenum Sulphide in oil, initially not used in engines directly because it would accumulate in the sump/crank case. I read that there are now oils that include it, with Liqui Moly being one company that allegedly does. Liqui Moly was one of the few companies that answered my query. I am going to check if I can get some more information.

I here you, I was lucky, or unlucky to visit through Houston two weeks ago and when the 40C heat hit me getting off the plane I thought nobody could ride in this! Especially coming from NZ winter!

Three weeks out and trying to strike a balance between seat time and using up tires . . . I am hoping to solve an irritating Garmin battery aggravation to power my four-year-old irritating aggravation of a Garmin 595LM. Guzzi-centric TechSessions will be drawn to, rigorosamente. Yet, this matter of "navigation", perhaps especially SatNav, continues to challenge. Just a reminder to study the area, learn the roads, plan your routes, and share your methods!

I'll let @Pressureangle, and others, answer that last question . . . From new, I used Moto Guzzi's FinalDrive lubricant (with the specified moly content), until it became NLA. Then I found it as a Motul product, IIRC. After which, I used a moly additive to ordinary gearoil. After fighting rear drive leaks and using various products for another ten years, I settled on RedLine ShockProof Lightweight/blue (reportedly containing a "synthetic moly"). YYMV

Whats a little pot hole? Gas it.

I can jump that, np . . .

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0bKfffH9nJhPNxHJ9v6FSWiWYC1FPpYYz9AVY1vDQK5HXfbRFCwJ86SXSGXdkFgUHl&id=100064835014719

Well now, there's this then... https://www.wate.com/news/monroe-county-news/tdot-releases-121-mile-detour-around-washed-out-cherohala-skyway/

I recently chased similar problems. Upon reassemble with new parts, it still did not work …then it did. It seems they lock into each other rather obvious, but I repeatedly didn't have them fully engaged, thus not working. I ended up replacing both 60° gear units and the cable during my troubleshooting, it was actually the speedo-side gear that was broken. Keep at it, you'll figure it out.

https://www.caferace.it/eng/articles?filtri=ok&id_cat=91&id_sottocat1=&id_sottocat2=&id_sottocat3=&nome_cerca=&marca_cerca=&promozione=&categoria_cerca=&adatto_a_cerca=Moto+Guzzi+V11+Le+Mans&marche_cerca=MASS&materiale_cerca=&colore_cerca=&Omologato_cerca=&ordinamento= I think that part may be avaliable at www.caferace.it If you are lucky.

I think that is the crossover part of the system they built for me.I wanted as much torque from 3000-5000rpm.I asked for a system with 42mm ID all the way through from cylinder to siilencers.More or less a copy of the stainune system.I thought that would bring good velocity,and then a big joint part where there could be lots of scavenging. I haven't fit it on the bike yet though. I don't know if they sell that system they designed for me,i think they do.

A broken cable is the most common issue with the cable driven stock speedometer. But to check the cable you need to do more than remove the cable from the speedometer and crank the engine over. An easy test is to remove the cable from both the transmission and from the speedometer. Then you can check to make sure the cable is not broken. Also make sure that one end isn't broken off. It is easy for the end of the cable to break off and not be noticed.

The short answer to the OP question; No. I don't add moly to my gear oil. In my opinion (which is worth exactly what you payed for it), if you use the right oil no additive is required. Sure, you can use a lower grade oil and add moly to it, or you can just use a better grade oil. There is no magic in a Guzzi final drive, it is a pinion and ring gear set with some bearings. There are plenty of vendors that make gear oils suitable for those needs without adding anything to the oil. But everyone should do what they want to do, what they feel comfortable doing.

Good on ya mate....

I've been reading up on the recommended oils for my bikes, trying to find out if I can use the same oil in all three of the Guzzis. In the course of that I've read exactly that from a couple of reliable sources, i.e. that modern synthetic gear oil doesn't need the additive. I'm still not sure whether I'll choose to believe that or not... PS: In the german forums, they generally refer to "Molykote 2" as the appropriate additive, which I think is a trade name.

Phil? Ate you making a tool for the pinion ring nut or do you want to borrow mine? I’d give it to you but Michael might need it later after I’m fully retired, (Or dead!🙄).

I use Molybond Formula 2.5 available in a 60gram tube. The gearbox doesn't need it because it uses constant mesh straight cut gears and has far less of the sliding action meshing of the rear bevel box hypoid gears. In reality you could probably use a high quality full synthetic gear oil these days just fine. I'm rebuilding a bevel box at the moment and just waiting on a new input shaft input bearing. You now the combined needle and split ball one you need to mortgage your house to buy. Phil

Mesmerizing. Of all the painstaking work, the paper towel roll, the spray can of chain lube and the dart board are what dropped my jaw

Watch for signs of over fill at that volume. Some amount of any gearoil will not drain from the internals, but clings. Repeated volumetric refills are a formula for overfill and seal stress. just my 0.00005 lire

I use Power Punch EP1. I bought a bottle from Moto International while they were still open. It will outlast me, even with @cash1000 using it too. You can buy it here: https://www.powerpunchinc.com/Gear_Oil_p/ep1-each.htm I imagine that it is specified due to lower speed than the gearbox, but higher loads and sliding tooth contact. Docc's use of Redline Shockproof probably makes moly unnecessary.

Holy Jack and the Beanstalk. I'm still not sure if those are really miniatures or if it's photoshop.

Well done, be happy you don’t have an oil temperature gauge to disturb you. Cheers Tom.

I rode to work again today, taking the freeway entrance/exits at high speed, OH BOY! That is so fun, handling mucho better!

(Tooting my own horn..) Not only an award, but the biggest award a builder or restorer gets in the US, a Lindy. Need I say I was shocked? Lindy's don't grow on trees, and it was a 19 year old restoration. First time at Oshkosh, though.. The current Keeper stopped in at our strip so we could fondle it on his flight home to Virginia.