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Update on Avon tires: https://news.goodyear.eu/avon-tyres-motorcycle-brand-accelerates-into-the-future-as-part-of-goodyear-family/

It stuck in my mind so I've kept looking at this and I see the hold up...their's NO Hammer!

Only if you add red plug wires the next time they're changed,,

Damn you've got me interested now, more work. I have the std green guard but it's such a PITA to swap them out and it's also got a minor crack at one mount point. The black guard is a nice carbon one. Maybe green with a clear stripe in the middle to display the carbon, maybe. I doubt I can spray/reproduce the original colour myself though as the process is a bit tricky. Phil

The metal dipstick is a little harder to read, some people have put a minor notch in it...but I compared the two side by each as they say...plastic vs. metal so I would know where the reading should be. The bike doesn't consume any oil, so I can't see any movement...I check it from time to time out of curiosity, but it never moves! The visual is nice to have...I just check it for consistency, not for a specific temp.

Or directly from Valpolini. The ones to get. Cheers Tom.

Whatever you reckon. Just remember, red is 10% faster....

Given the exponential increase in the price of used motorcycles over the past couple years, I'd expect to see a similar curve in motorcycle tire sales. If Goodyear has them, it means they're staying. Good thing too, if I ever get this Norton finished. Or started.

Now, let's talk about the fairing.. and the forks painted the same color as the engine cases.

Maybe some red fork gaiters Chuck? Phil

I searched on part number, this is why 14023760 hit on the MG Cycle website.

To expand on it, some are scared they can't weld something that they have used brake clean on previously. That is not the case. If you use brake clean on metal and then weld it any liquid brake clean still on the metal, or even possibly some fumes that are still hanging about (although that seems like a slim issue), will break down under the heat of welding and if it is the wrong type of brake clean it will create phosgene gas. Particularly common is small traces of liquid brake clean sitting in pores of the metal. But if you use brake clean and then thoroughly dry the part you can weld it. The key is, being sure all traces of brake clean are gone. As brake clean does not leave a residue on the part, once it has evaporated it is gone, you don't need to worry about welding a part you used brake clean on previously if the brake clean is long since evaporated. But if you only use the non-chlorinated brake clean on metal you are going to weld, or simply skip the brake clean and use other safer solvents, you don't need to worry about it. Since the possible results of welding metal that still has liquid brake clean on it are potentially lethal it makes sense to be overly cautious. I feel this is something you can't stress enough. Better safe then sorry.

I found another brand that seem to sell better quality instruments and brackets. It will post about it as soon as I have received the thermometer and clock with the mounts. Their instruments glow in the dark, unlike Formotion ones, and you can also change the battery yourself on the clock... They sell Oil gauges too....

Not to steal LowRyter's thunder, but adding the frame brace, under the spine, is only applicable to the early RedFrame (short frame), 1999-2001.

Couldn't help myself... :-) Here's a quick & dirty photoshop

Thanks for the updates (and heads-up!) @Randy . . . Pretty sure TWOS/Suches,GA is our most reliable Saturday destination, by whatever routes. Lunch meet-ups at either TWOS or, maybe, Rod's Rockin' Rolls in Ducktown on the way back to Tellico Plains . . .

From some early South'n Spine Raid [SSR III/2007], this tribe of F'karewe Indians in PowWow near the Nantahala . . . "Where the F'karewe ?"

IMG_8159.MOV “…brexshit casualty.” Huh? Nein! Klaus Schwab sez it’s ze 4th Industrial Revolution “It’s like ze Tsunami!” IMG_8439.MOV