Leaderboard

Thing is, since the adoption of crank/cam triggered timing sensors the marks are essentially completely irrelevant. You can establish top dead centre, or close enough to set valve lash, by observation or, if you've done it a few times, simply by *feel*. All that is required is the cam lobes be on the base circle while you are checking the clearances. What are the clearances for after all? On bikes with points or a distributor of some sort you needed to know where TDC was and where the static and full advance marks were on the flywheel when you were strobing them but since the advent of electronic ignition and ECU's all that is unnecessary because all the needed data for engine management vis-a-vis spark and injection timing is controlled by a phase wheel behind the cam sprocket,(On V11's and the like. Why the persisted on still marking the flywheels right up until the advent of the CARC bikes I have no idea? Force of habit probably! Ignore any marks. They are utterly irrelevant!

https://www.cycleworld.com/motorcycle-news/piaggio-ceo-roberto-colaninno-dies/?utm_source=Cycle+World+MC&utm_campaign=9cb51a9fd0-CW_EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_082723&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_3a16588fbb-9cb51a9fd0-453096853

I had no issues turning the motor by the rear tire, just use 5th or 6th gear with both sparkplugs out and it makes it very easy to turn (leverage is your friend). Using the rear tire also makes it easy to make sure you turn the motor the right direction (you don't want to turn the motor backwards for any of this). I also had no issues using a straw to feel for the piston. In fact, I have never used the markings on the flywheel for any of this. Not sure if the markings are even there. I don't like sticking solid objects down the sparkplug hole, I prefer things like straws that will give if things go sideways. A straw can't mess anything up.

Iirc doing the left cylinder first sets it up so that minimal turns will have the right cylinder in the correct tdc position shortly. I use the tire rotation method (it can be a pita);have been known to cheat with a large old slot screw driver prying gently on the flywheel teeth. I try to watch the valves moving through the tdc cycle, verify the correct tdc with a wooden skewer & that both valves are loose. fwiw

I have had quite the opposite outcomes, here, in our ridiculously high ambient temperatures of the US south. I found the ETS/holder material to "heat sink" in these environs. Once it got hot, it would not give up on the idea. Rather like an unnamed lady I once had a relationship with . . .

As has so often been revealed in the history of Moto Guzzi, some corporate ownership has been the passion one man. "Piaggio" = Roberto Colaninno (for Moto Guzzi) ? Thank you for your dedicated passion, Roberto. R.I.P.

Thanks Bill. I'll admit to quirky moto maintenance music. Several sopranos, but she's my fave.

Said m times before. See your ex valve goes down and up, intake valve down and up. Piston at tdc. Straw useful just before tdc. Clockwise only. Cheers Tom.

As a Guzzista, I emulate the marque by liking quirky music. My most recent affectation for Moto Grappa listening is the Trompes de Chasse, e.g. this ... I am listening to that now while R&R'ing the rear wheel of the V85. The OEM Dunlop Meridian has 4.5K on it and probably enough tread for the run to the SSR ... he says hopefully. But, it's squared off, and that's no fun, and I already have the MR6 here. So, naturally, the "why not" rule kicks in. The front tire is, as expected, in better shape, but its replacement is inbound, thus another application of the WNR. Pulling the rear wheel was the easiest of any of my present and former Guzzis. Fell right off like well done rib meat off the bone. Lots of space, and the cush rubbers stay in place. I didn't even need to drop the lift's cutout. OK, back to listening, now this ... Bill

the simple mnemonic joke... D = dis side / S = s'not dis side (works for me). Here's another hint. Once you've found TDC, take a marker to alternator rotor. Mark "D" at midnight, and the same mark will be for "S" at 3 pm. If the feeler gauge doesn't go in, it means your on exhaust stroke, you're 360 degrees off and you're at noon, rather than midnight. This is much easier than taking a flashlight and looking for those little letters each time.

I did my valves a month or so ago. Mine did have both the S and D visible. I used the tire rocking method as one of the bolts on my alternator cover appears to be stripped and I haven't had a chance to deal with that yet. It took me a few tries with the tire to figure it out, but once you get the hang the rocking a little back, then forward it is pretty rhythmic to turn to where you want it.

Engine temperature sensor. It's the blue thing screwed in to the back of the RH cylinder head in a plastic holder.

The bike is in mint condition. Its based on a 2004 Canadian imported Ballabio Sport. I have the full documentation and official paperwork from Guzzi to verify this. V11 SPECIFICATION DATE of manufacture: 2004 UK REG 1-1-2020 MILEAGE: 6786 MILES (may rise as the bike is used) MOT: Will have 12 month MOT dated from 31-8-23 MODIFICATIONS: New Ducati 900 classic fairing fitted with custom built brackets New LED halo headlight New LED taillight fitted and frenched into the rear bodywork New LED micro indicators fitted front and rear. New steel mounting bracket fabricated for rear indicators and license plate. Stock airbox removed and twin cone filters installed. New battery fitted New rocker covers fitted with vapour blasted / polished finish. New stainless exhaust fabricated with cross over and stainless Delkevic stainless silencers. Front and rear brake calipers stripped, powder coated graphite grey and fully rebuilt with new pads Wheels stripped and powder coated graphite grey. New bearings fitted. Silver rim decals made and applied. New stainless steel infill panel with Guzzi logo fabricated for top yoke. Full professional respray in Kawasaki candy burnt orange, graphite grey metallic with silver pin striping and off white tail panels. Guzzi logos airbrushed in. Various hexhead bolts replaced with new stainless items. New bar end mirrors fitted. Alternator cover refinished silver MECHANICAL- all worked carried out by Jason at 1921 Moto, Guisley. All fluids changed. Bike fully serviced. Ignition system, injection and timing set up. New clutch, pressure plate and release bearing fitted. Front brake hydraulic balance hose relocated. Brake calipers rebuilt with new pads. The bike runs beautifully £6999 UK sterling

Mine doesn't rub, but the bracket on the left is closer to the tank than on the right. I think it might have to do with the left cylinder being further back than the right, but I didn't have enough time to have a really close look at it after I noticed the "problem". I have been informed by someone who really knows what he is talking about that there can be problems with contact between fairing, sidecovers and tank, and ensuing wear and tear. He suggested a thick washer or two under the rear mount of the tank to raise it a couple of millimeters. I haven't had a really close look yet to see exactly what it will acheive, but the first glance indicated that this might be a really good idea.

I'm going to have to temper that a bit...

I did the left hand side. At PMH (TDC), the "S" marking does not appear in the viewport. But the piston is clearly visible through the spark plug port, since it is tangential. You are correct, moving the engine by rotating the wheel is not easy because there is very little movement required to jump the TDC when you are in sixth gear. It is a seek and trial to get it right. And I can confirm I do not have a "D" that I can find on the side of the flywheel. Luigi went for a bathroom break and when he came back, the engine had moved to the next station.

That's nothin', the retaining screw at that location was so long on mine it was wearing into the tank!

Weak spark can sometimes look like richness. I flunked geography,lol, are you in an area with dry heat or is it the type of high heat with lots of salty humidity that could cause corrosion issues on electrical connections? Main ground & other connections might be worth looking at. fwiw

Looking at the headers and state of the gearbox, I would say that 2000 miles in incorrect.

I have never had any success with rolling the rear tire to locate TDC. Nor with the "straw" method. I do verify loose rockers, by hand, at TDC by cylinder. Sure, maybe Sig. Luigi striking the "D" on your flywheel was on holiday when your flywheel passed the striking station. Maybe it is just very hard to detect, by eye, through the inspection hole . . .

Pulling the plugs is also helpful because you can use a straw to zero in on TDC proximity.