Leaderboard

I don’t always have time to ride. But when I do, I prefer the South‘N Spine Raid.

I haven't had my V11 all that long, so this is not expert experience, but rather stuff that I have read here and elsewhere. ECU and map: Have you read about Guzzidiag yet? Look here: https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ Guzzidiag is an analysis programme that displays what the ECU is receiving from the various sensors, and can actuate the fuel pump and injectors to see if they are functioning correctly and such things. Guzzidiag can't change the map. The reader and writer programmes can respectively read out and save to a file on your computer the map currently installed on the ECU and install a map (re-install the original, install a different one...). So, with those programmes you can change the map if you have an alternative to install. Right down the bottom of the page is a link to tuner-pro. Unlike everything else on the page, Beard did not write that programme. I haven't looked at it yet, but I gather tuner-pro can be used to look at and analyse and alter a map. So yes, it is possible to change a map, but this might involve quite a lot of research and time and effort. Unless you find someone who already has a map that suits your setup. Brace on the gearbox: As far as I can tell from what I have read, the part in question must be part #15 on this diagramme https://wendelmotorraeder.de/rahmen-1100-sport-corsa-98-99-ex-30_3006_300615_30061510_3006151001.html Going by the parts lists on that site, that part was fitted to the Sport 1100 / 1100 Sport and Centauro models. Going by what I have read here, it was apparently fitted to a very small number of very early V11 Sport. For some reason, it stopped being fitted even though the mounting bracket was still on the frame. The lack of this bracket is considered to be the cause of cracking in the rear of the gearbox housing. The later, long frame V11 models have additional bracing from the frame to the gearbox and no longer have the bracket for the brace on the frame. Therefore, mounting the brace on those models is neither necessary nor possible. Here is a thread on the topic Pete Roper slosh plate: The problem that the slosh plate addresses is that, under acceleration, the intake to the oil circulation system can suck air because the oil has surged to the back of the sump, and the intake is at the front. I believe that there was a change to later V11 models that alleviates this problem, but I'm not at all sure about that. Forum member @Pressureangle is working on getting a batch of the plates made. I'm planning on getting one when they become available, even though it may not be so critical for my 2002 V11 Le Mans. The most current information I have found is here

It seems all is well. Did careful measurement using depth mics and using the trans/engine case split as the datum. There's 3mm+ before the splines can touch the pressure plate. So, that seems good. The hole in the pushrod button on the new RAM pressure plate is 6mm. I modified my 8mm pushrod to fit which makes it reversible. I didn't dry fit the trans because I'm pretty sure it's fine. I'm waiting on the o-ring that goes on the splined shaft under the clutch hub from Harpers. Curtis is also sending the clutch slave. Then I can confirm pushrod length. So far all is good. I got a little excited. Thanks to everyone for all the help!

Relays: while I have purchased qty 5 of the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12, I have never installed them other than doing some trouble shooting when I was affected by the "no crank" issue. I have now 30,000 miles and counting. Staintune: my V11 is equipped with this exhaust. I scratched one of the cans, and when I checked Staintune, they were no longer in business, having been purchased by another Australian company. After reading your message, I checked again, and it seems they are on the net again, devoid of an exhaust system for the V11, or any Moto Guzzi for that matter. They have a contact form, so you may be able to get them to make one for you. This is how mine sounds: This is with the Mistral: https://www.facebook.com/reel/1919546008426964 The Mistral look very good on the V11...

I still have a few Extenders from that absolutely last run. Scud sent me a few springs that I could use as "party favors" if someone needs one.

I swear-to-Waddington I never meant to go this course a week out. But, they revealed themselves. What can I do? "Get there. Bring Tools."

All your questions are well founded, except the one about tires. Like oil, there's lots of good choices, everyone has a different favorite, and trying to get consensus is a lost cause. This site offers answers to all the other questions, but searching inside the site can be tedious. I've had good luck using Google and "V11lemans.com" plus your topic. As for answers, I'll take the one about relay bases. Two things can go wrong, there's a plug hidden under the base that can come loose, and the terminal sockets in the bases can slacken due to frequent relay changes. See @Kiwi_Roy s post

The first tune I played and sang for my girl 18 yrs ago was A Pirate Looks at Forty. She was a sailor. It worked.

Welcome. A couple quick thoughts.. Handling: I've owned both frame lengths and can attest to the short/red frame handles considerably better. That said, it no longer interests me to push my limits on tight twisty roads, and the later long frame is great for me. I found no twitch or unsettling handling aspects with my red frame. Staintune 'alleges' no tuning necessary when using their cans. IDK for sure. I do know you'll eventually want a more open can. Electric gremlins are a concern but easily sorted once found. As with any 22 y/o bike, how it has been stored would be a top concern for myself if I were looking. Weak and deteriorating connections are negatively impacted by corrosion, and I would avoid a 'crusty, rusty, left outside' example. Even with a good clean find, I'd recommend attending to every connection. The Roper, or slosh plate is a small investment with a potentially large payoff. Just get one. Green is good.

A lot of work has gone into this! Adapting the Carc drive to a spine frame is not an easy job

Most likely it will. It is already sacked from over travel. Compare it to a new spring, and you will see this. Maybe you will be lucky. I tested one that I don't think would have broken..

I purchased a re-engineered pawl spring, but did not install it yet. I want to check if the OEM one I re-installed will break again. This time, the coiled part of the spring is properly loose, and the effort is distributed around it as it should have always been. The stock springs may have been too tight around the axle, causing the fatigue to be localized at a single point. I am including some photos so you can get a clear understanding of the issue. I have the broken spring and new spring photographed together below, so you can easily see where the stock one broke.

The tank does not include the cap or fuel pump/filter.

I think both. I'm not entirely sure as I haven't looked inside yet. I didn't catch that Scud had the springs and Chuck had the extenders. I messaged Velofish the other day since I bought the bike from him. He said he has already replaced the spring. So that may not be my issue. I'll dive into it this next week or two and find our what's going on in there.

Yes. And Nero Corse decals, as well. Very unfortunate. Perhaps exacerbated by the byproducts of fuel containing ethanol, especially if stored for any length of time with degrading fuel in the tank.

R.I.P. Jimmy Buffett. Here, I lift "The Parting Glass " . . .

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1589241764655627/permalink/3581633522083098/ https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607477492402&set=pcb.3581633522083098 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607554159061&set=pcb.3581633522083098 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607400825743&set=pcb.3581633522083098 Really stunning beautiful..... my kind of color!

I use Motorcraft electrical grease on electrical connectors . Amen on the dielectric grease and it's misunderstood purpose .

I'm of the opinion that anything greasy aids contacts, it coats the surface so air (oxidation) and water (corrosion) don't take place. I learned as an apprentice electrician 45 years ago that petroleum jelly aka vaseline works wonders on battery terminals. We also used it liberally on the large drum controllers of electric cranes, more for lubrication in that case. I'm sure there are lots of better greases than plain old vaseline but it's available everywhere. God's gift to Electrical Contacts I call it. I'm starting to rave like an now What were we talking about again? Cheers Roy