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Much better! The bike looks more together

yeah they are present, and look very ancient- if i remove them i may be cursed.

https://motorcyclesports.net/moto-guzzi-v100-stelvio-the-first-definitive-photos/

More coolcats on cool Guzzis:

50,000 miles, mostly original with "patina" aka normal wear for a properly used survivor. I bought this a few years ago from a Wild Guzzi member. Totally enjoy the bike, but just making difficult decisions as another dirt bike is on the way. Here are the most interesting modifications: Electronic ignition Full Zard exhaust Caruso timing gears Upgraded forks and shocks (but older upgrades) A partial list of spare parts: Full exhaust (I think staintune) with a two dents Original black silencers (which I think are highly collectible and virtually unobtainable) Lots of original bits and spares What it needs: It's due for a full service (all fluids and valve check, etc.) Some attention to the starting circuit (it has never failed to start, but sometimes takes a few dead-clicks before it cranks. FYI, I have a remote start button that was previously on the this bike and I assume can be easily refitted). There are some rattly bits such as turn signals and unorthodox fairing mounts that could use some love. Pricing: This is a hard bike to value. Somebody (I forgot who) claimed there were only about 75 made in this color scheme - but all Guzzis are rare, right? As of now, I am thinking in the 5,000-6,000 (USD) range with the high-end including all the extra parts. Happy to discuss the bike at length, and with full disclosure to anyone who is serious about it.

The big GS is a remarkable motorcycle. I've ridden a few and I do like them, but not as much as my 2017 Stelvio NTX. I routinely go grocery shopping with the Stelvio... which means 40 minutes of twisty roads to the orchards in Pauma Valley. And return with a 25 pound bag of oranges (love my fresh-squeezed OJ) and whatever else is in season. I suspect this new Stelvio is the base model, and that there will some variants, such as another NTX with more aggressive tires, skid plate (look at that vulnerable exhaust) and all the crash bars. A big ADV bike is nice for dirt roads that you'd rather not ride a sport bike on - where there is a bit more risk of losing traction and kissing the ground. They are great for exploring past the "pavement ends" signs, but not great for technical terrain.

I am certain I am not the only one to write up an ad to sell something of my own and think, "Wow, this piece looks great, I should own this! And [he is] practically giving it away . . . "

So far, this site is the extent of my "marketing." I never used BaT before, but have definitely lurked a bit. I'd probably need to give a couple days labor to freshen it up and hopefully fix that startus interruptus first. I do like the bike... but if I do that, I'd probably want to enjoy it for another season or two.

Chuck - you've ridden with this bike out of Lake Henshaw. Pete - I bet you could hate it more if it had been chopped into a cafe racer. And just thinking... also in with the spare parts, there is: a very nice condition instrument cover (a big rubber pod), the original belly pan (but no bracket, else I would have it on the bike already) an original seat cover (worn, but could be used to get a copy made). It has the with funky 80's LeMans script like in the magazine ad. But seriously, what is that font called? Marshmallow Italic? And to anyone who feel like this bike would be a restoration candidate: there is a fair bit of wear on the paint from 50K miles, including some rub-throughs. But I know where a set of NOS bodywork is - in that same paint scheme. I had briefly contemplated a full restoration of this bike.

carelessnessness? moi?

You don't really need to do this. You must keep the pates in the correct body and orientation upstream to downstream but when you install them you simply shut the throttle shaft hard with the plate loose and tap it a little to set the plate perfectly in the bore then tighten the screws. You need to clean up the screw threads and remove the staking and apply Loctite. I use blue and also mark the heads so I can check them from time to time. Phil

FYJIMO Racing, at its best!

Roughly, 20,000 miles – will go up slightly. Great condition overall. Just Serviced within the last 500 miles at The Spare Parts Company – Philadelphia. Original clip-ons replaced with High-end Woodcraft clip-ons and bar end weights. Minor scuff on seat cowl and small Chip in tank – about ¼ inch. Many accessories are available – individual cost to be determined. Guzzi Luggage Rac, Foot peg Lowering kit (3 in forward, 1 in down), Ghezzi-Brian carbon fiber hugger, Tommaselli adjustable clip-ons. $7900 Located in West Orange NJ

I installed the "remote bleeder" for the clutch from the Griso, Breva and what have you the other day. Part #12 here, buy the screw and the seals with it: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/kupplungspumpe-breva-1100-05-07-ex-30_3006_300611_30061110_3006111024.html Bleeding the clutch was very comfortable after that. I had to buggerise around a bit to fasten the end of the extension, but once I had that I could bleed the clutch in a comfortable upright standing position, one hand on the clutch lever, the other on the spanner on the bleeder. It remains to be seen what the permanent solution for the upper end of the bleeder extension will be. For now, it will be secured somewhere out of the way with a cable tie. The first attempt at bleeding involved a carpenters clamp. As I mentioned, a bit of dicking around to get it set up, but it was worth the effort.

So, I said I'd take some photos. Here they are. Some of them are a bit dodgy, but most will know how that is. Greasy hands taking photos with a telephone in the garage... I mentioned further up that I got a replacement housing as part of a complete ignition switch from an Aprilia scooter. I think the model was S50. Here is a picture of the switch plate from the contact side. On the left the plate from the V11, on the right from the scooter. It is the same bit of plastic, but the V11 has a couple of contacts more than the scooter. This is the bit that makes the contacts from the contact side here, that bit is sitting on the contact plate, and one can see the ball bearings that provide the detente for the switch position. The following picture shows the inside of the casing with the indents for the detente visible. This picture and the next one show the order in which the bits go back together I wrote further up that one must work on the "visually obvious" retainer to get the switch plate out of the housing. This is the visually obvious hole for the relevant retainer. The other two retainers are in plain square holes. Here are a few pictures of the key lock from the V11 and from the scooter. The park lock is clearly visible on both; on the V11 lock the bolt is retracted but it is clear where it comes out, on the scooter lock the bolt doesn't retract any further than it is in the photo. The lock from the V11 is the one on the left, and the scooter the one on the right., And finally a picture of the housing that I broke whilst disassembling it. I suspect that the break is typical. To avoid breaking the housing, take your time, think about what you're doing (twice) be patient, and don't try to release all of the retainers. Get the obvious one free, and then rotate the switch plate out of the housing. The replacement I got was from an Aprilia scooter. The model was, as mentioned, I believe S50. That is not critical, though. I have been reliably informed that Piaggio / Aprilia / Guzzi used the same type of locks for pretty much everything they built in that period. My Breva 750, for instance, also has the same thing in it. As far as I can tell, the same housing was used pretty much everywhere, and that is what is likely to break when dismantling the switch to clean it up. The scooter switch I got only had two positions: on or off. Without knowing for sure, I rather suspect that there was only one version with "park, lock, off, on" as in the V11. The trick is finding out what else had that in it. If it wasn't a Guzzi, the part would probably be cheaper...

So here is the definitive answer to the triple clamp offset question. Twenty years in the pursuit. This is what you get when you use a later top clamp on an early lower clamp with fork tubes fitted. The stem doesn't line up with the stem bore due to the different lower clamp offset. Another difference between the later and earlier lower clamps is the steering damper lug is 7mm longer on the later clamps so you need to machine that amount off the later clamps for the steering damper to fit correctly.

I had the front wheel out a few days ago and the new wheel with the 25mm hollow axle and new tyre and disks is 2.2 KG lighter than the old front wheel, axle, disks and a partially worn tyre. So both wheels, the Titanium rear axle and the 25mm hollow front axle and bevel shroud removal saves 8.2 KG total. Not bad. I should have weighed the later clip ons as they are sure to be a bit lighter then the swan neck versions. I must weigh the bike and see whats the total weight. The 4 valve engine will weigh a fair bit more of course but the cross over and mufflers will be a lot less. Phil

I would beg to differ; as with anything that was conceived as a compromise, the "Adventure" Bikes, or at least some of them are able to do better than the proverbial trip to the Supermarket; in French, we say "only good to get the croissants", alluding to what traditional French used to do before. One in the family made the run to the Boulangerie to get the fresh bread and the croissants. Not the Baguette, but the Ficelle, which was the one used for breakfasts. I was recently reviewing the Triumph Tiger line up. They have two distinctive lines: the GT and the Rally. The GT obviously for those who are more touring oriented; the Rally for those who are serious about being able to travel the non paved roads. We do have lots of those in Texas. I rode them on my Le Mans, and while not impossible, the riding is cumbersome. Here, in H'town, almost everybody has a SUV, which are mostly very large vehicles. Having been working in countries with deserts and no roads, I did experience the runs with Land Rovers and Land Cruisers when those were real 4x4 vehicles. I have never ridden an Adventure bike per se. However when I was in Sicily, I had the opportunity to ride equivalent of the XR650L in the remote villages there, and on the beaches. But I think those are named "Dual Sports" in jargon? I don't know if a GS or a Stelvio 1200 can be effective on sand, probably only with experienced and fit drivers. But as far as SUVs are concerned, I am with you. The initial purpose of the 4x4 vehicles has now been completely mutated into comfort and asphalt.

Hmmm it’s all going suspiciously smoothly now… manky old gaskets out, and then i found 4 spare gaskets kicking about the garage- 2 copper ones and 2 composite badgers… ace!

Ha ha Perhaps the Ragged Fringe of Eccentricity suits us best....? Cheers

^ that is all correct. It's a very nice handling bike. Although it might want a new rear tire in a couple thousand miles.

Yes. I misunderstood what he was saying. Of course, the switch activates that circuit separately from the ignition and headlamp, whether in 'run' or 'park'.

Yes, but.... Look at component #39 here https://guzzitek.org/schemas_electriques/gb/1100/V11Sport_NonCatal_2004.pdf That is the ignition switch, i.e. the switch that the key operates. +12 V arrives from the battery (via fuses) in the first and third "column". The "on" position connects the first column with the second, and the third with the fourth. First to second is ECU, Injectors, all the things that allow the bike to run, and the headlight. Third to fourth is power to the blinkers, the instrument lighting, and the park light, tail light and number plate light. The "park" position connects the first column with the fourth, i.e. power only to the blinkers, the instrument lighting, and the park light, tail light and number plate light. So I reckon docc is right: if the lighting relay dies on the way to wherever you want to get to, the tail light and park light and blinkers should still work, and be enough for other Verkehrsteilnehmer (traffic participants. There is a word for everything in German...) to see you and be able to avoid running you over (if they want to).

But the 'park' is below the 'lock' position, available only after the fork lock is activated. So, stuck in place. Talked with Nic about the lights- he's humble about it but he's the youngest Certified Naval Nuclear Powerplant Operator the Navy ever graduated, so knows electronics to the atomic level. He suggested that the debris in the ignition switch actually created a capacitor, which I'd considered but don't have the depth of knowledge to more than imagine. He says capacitors are nothing more than basically dielectric grease with some current-carrying stuff mixed in it, which is precisely what was in the switch. <shrug> We'll know soon enough, I guess.

Back to the OP's original post & info re the left exhaust port looking white. Just thinking out loud,coming at the evidence from a different direction; I'd be taking a real hard look at the exhaust gaskets,,, old ones mistakenly left in by POs (including me,lol) can cause sealing issues,,,,happens frequently,,,,, Did the gaskets or headers show any other signs of exhaust leaks? Were they well seated & tightened?

Almost as fast as the Ducati I had, with higher top speed.

And , that ain't a good thing ! It seems as though anytime the patriarch gets out of the business and the kids or a new cabal takes over , things go south quickly . They "know" how to fix things and make it more ________ and then closing in less than two years .

Well mine are beautiful wheels but the front wheel didn't fit the bike when delivered. The rear drive assembly was a very nice piece but the rear disk brake carrier had .2mm of runout! I removed it and machined it true. The front wheel wouldn't fit as the brake calliper bodies dragged on the disks because the captive spacer was 2mm too long. I had to press that out and machine it down and then it fitted. I emailed Roland about it with images of the measurements and dial indicator readings but he just told me to send them back to PVM. Not that useful to me so I fixed them myself. I think there has been changes at PVM and maybe they aren't interested in bespoke work anymore. Don't know for sure. Add that to the many issues I've had as a foreign customer with different German suppliers over the last 2 year or so and I'm not keen to buy from them anymore. Don't know whats happened there but they are now far worse than the Italians ever were. Strange that and directly opposite to my old and pretty comprehensive dealing with them around 30 years ago. Phil

I guess the front guard on the V11 is a "signature" piece as well and it kind of disappears when it's left in the natural carbon black. Now I have to cough up for a painting the front guard. It never ends. Btw I had a strange front brake calliper issue. The callipers were bought second hand a while back and were in nice condition and came without pads. When I fitted and bled them the inner lower piston on the r/h calliper was leaking. Not a huge leak but a drip every day or so. Pressurised was slightly less so mainly a static leak. Anyway I pulled the piston and seals out and in the main seal oring groove was a foreign body maybe 1mm thick. No idea what it was but it was stuck in there very well, like a small blob of glue. Appears to have been there before the anodising and I managed to scrape it out carefully. There's no damage to the groove but you can see a small area where the anodising hasn't taken hence my theory of it being there pre anodising. I thought at first it was corrosion but it's not on the lower part of the groove where water would accumulate and the rest of the calliper bore is perfect. I could put it all back together but the seal outer face has been deformed slightly from sitting on the foreign body. BTW these callipers are hard to find now as they have been out of production for quite a few years and so are genuine rebuild kits. There's a fairly new phenomena out there these days in that businesses are advertising stock on their websites but they don't carry any stock at all. They happily take full payment for stock they dont have and charge your CC then a week later inform you they can't get the stock anymore and refund your money. Then you lose on the transaction fees and they have your money for a week or so. This is very common now so for older bike parts it's advisable to email them first and see if they actually have stock or so they can at least check their supplier because they don't update their websites when parts become unavailable. It's bordering on a scam these days and I've been caught a few times of late. Some of the most professional looking motorcycle parts websites are in fact just resellers with no stock at all. Phil

Not really helpful, but the V11 was not really made to be a good passenger bike. If you mount the rear cowl on it that takes the whole passenger thing off the table (I would love to take you for a ride, but there is no place for you to sit). That is what my wife does with hers, she has the rear cowl on her seat so there is no where for a passenger to sit. She is fine with that.

Aloha! What’s your experience? I haven’t had the opportunity to ride the island… but years ago, I did ride with a couple of mates up to Big Bear outside Los Angeles and the dew at 6,800 feet is bad. Dew at any level is terribly treacherous. Here’s the opening lines from a magazine review by Robert Smith. “One the most memorable and exhilarating rides of my motorcycling life was on a Guzzi: a race-tuned 850 Le Mans Mk1. I rode it from Ha’iku, Maui (close to sea level) up to the Haleakala Park entrance at 6,800 feet on the volcano’s switchback access road, and back down again. With a race cam, lightened flywheels, flowed head, Bub exhaust and flat-slide Mikunis, that baby really flew, handled precisely and would stop on, if not a dime, certainly a nickel. But what was so seductive was the way the motor loved to rev. Below 3,000 rpm, it wouldn’t have pulled a fly off a cow patty; but when it came on the cam, it surged to the red line with a rush of booming power; but on closing the throttle, all was uncannily smooth and calm.” Uncannily smooth and calm… stay strong Lahaina 💪 https://cdnbkr.ca/3893-2-motorcycle-review/moto-guzzi-breva-1200-2008/

I used to be active on the german Guzzi forums I used to be active on several german Guzzi forums. Did you see them there?

Welcome. A couple quick thoughts.. Handling: I've owned both frame lengths and can attest to the short/red frame handles considerably better. That said, it no longer interests me to push my limits on tight twisty roads, and the later long frame is great for me. I found no twitch or unsettling handling aspects with my red frame. Staintune 'alleges' no tuning necessary when using their cans. IDK for sure. I do know you'll eventually want a more open can. Electric gremlins are a concern but easily sorted once found. As with any 22 y/o bike, how it has been stored would be a top concern for myself if I were looking. Weak and deteriorating connections are negatively impacted by corrosion, and I would avoid a 'crusty, rusty, left outside' example. Even with a good clean find, I'd recommend attending to every connection. The Roper, or slosh plate is a small investment with a potentially large payoff. Just get one. Green is good.

Welcome, @DucatiGuzziIndian! You are certainly in the right place to sort, ride, and enjoy a Moto Guzzi V11 Sport! Out of everything you posted, this statement struck a chord, "I'm a hands on, workshop capable person ." I recall an early journalist commenting on the V11 Sport (might have been Gordon Jennings, I'll have to look for the reference. Thus, I paraphrase. Emphasis added): "It is an interesting motorcycle that may require some owner involvement." It also occurs to me to say, "Let's ask the other inmates on the ward if we're really crazy."

Well, we are THE V11 LeMans forum. RedFrameTrash , like me, are just lucky to have a place to park back in the corner . . .

Be very, very careful. It's all a trick to lull you into carelessness and abandon!