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I think it is a question of mentality. When I got my first motorcycle, I was 16; then it was the legal age to get your motorcycle driver's license. Today, it is 18. My bike was my main mode of transportation. Not leisure. I was going to school with it during the week, and spending my week-ends away from home on it too. Rain or shine, winter or summer.... it did not make any difference to me. Now, compared to the tropical rains we seem to experience each time in Texas, the drizzly cold weathers of my hay days felt easy. My biggest concern when riding storms here, is the lack of visibility. Your visor becomes opaque and grey due to the high density and flow of the water hitting it. You are blind and everything you need to look for is blurry or invisible. As far as residual wetness, the people at the Pioneer barbecue helped me dry my gear. Obviously, I smelled like brisket the rest of the road back home, but it was good to open up my appetite....

You Texans are crazy. Up here in rain country riding in the rain is often a necessity, but don’t think I’ve ever said “ah what the heck, i could drive, or ride a bike with a big windscreen to hide behind, but i think I’ll take the LeMans”. Good way to stay young? riding through big rain is one thing, but then getting back on that bike when you’re all wet is another level of “not fun”. I’ve had a couple surprise deluge’s in north Texas over the years, when passing through, and one consolation-prize with those thunderstorms was that i went from sweaty-hot, to “drowned rat”, to mostly dry again pretty quick, after exiting the storm into blue sky and hot, dry air. I don’t suppose you had that advantage on this ride…. In regard to the thread topic, I’m still moaning about lack of time to work on my V11’s, after spending too much time this summer getting my Alaskan KTM back into shape after years of it only getting dealer maintenance. So many rattles, leaks, and issues i’ve been cursing my way through fixing. Hopefully about done with that so i can get back to messing with Greenie restoration, and chasing down the no-start issues on Goldie. But Red is running excellent on my rare days of getting her out of the stable. Going out today for a bit, and not in the rain!

This week-end was supposed to be the one when I would complete my Texas Tour stops; However, we had heavy thunderstorms predicted to take place over most of Texas, so I decided to delay. Nevertheless, yesterday I opted to have lunch in Brenham: I said bring it down! It did not disappoint. I got there completely drenched! The Le Mans loved it though....

I installed the "remote bleeder" for the clutch from the Griso, Breva and what have you the other day. Part #12 here, buy the screw and the seals with it: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/kupplungspumpe-breva-1100-05-07-ex-30_3006_300611_30061110_3006111024.html Bleeding the clutch was very comfortable after that. I had to buggerise around a bit to fasten the end of the extension, but once I had that I could bleed the clutch in a comfortable upright standing position, one hand on the clutch lever, the other on the spanner on the bleeder. It remains to be seen what the permanent solution for the upper end of the bleeder extension will be. For now, it will be secured somewhere out of the way with a cable tie. The first attempt at bleeding involved a carpenters clamp. As I mentioned, a bit of dicking around to get it set up, but it was worth the effort.

I've been thinking about that. Would it be really tragic if that end of the shaft wasn't air-tight? Phil wrote that the bung in the end is just a plate staked into place. I dare say that isn't really air-tight even when it is new. I'll be taking mine out again to have a close look at it, but I'm inclined to think that if I don't rely on the grease nipple to lubricate, i.e. take it off every year or two and grease it dismantled on the bench, then it shouldn't really matter too much if that bung doesn't seal 100%. Or am I overlooking something?

The name has been around for a while... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_brake

So, I said I'd take some photos. Here they are. Some of them are a bit dodgy, but most will know how that is. Greasy hands taking photos with a telephone in the garage... I mentioned further up that I got a replacement housing as part of a complete ignition switch from an Aprilia scooter. I think the model was S50. Here is a picture of the switch plate from the contact side. On the left the plate from the V11, on the right from the scooter. It is the same bit of plastic, but the V11 has a couple of contacts more than the scooter. This is the bit that makes the contacts from the contact side here, that bit is sitting on the contact plate, and one can see the ball bearings that provide the detente for the switch position. The following picture shows the inside of the casing with the indents for the detente visible. This picture and the next one show the order in which the bits go back together I wrote further up that one must work on the "visually obvious" retainer to get the switch plate out of the housing. This is the visually obvious hole for the relevant retainer. The other two retainers are in plain square holes. Here are a few pictures of the key lock from the V11 and from the scooter. The park lock is clearly visible on both; on the V11 lock the bolt is retracted but it is clear where it comes out, on the scooter lock the bolt doesn't retract any further than it is in the photo. The lock from the V11 is the one on the left, and the scooter the one on the right., And finally a picture of the housing that I broke whilst disassembling it. I suspect that the break is typical. To avoid breaking the housing, take your time, think about what you're doing (twice) be patient, and don't try to release all of the retainers. Get the obvious one free, and then rotate the switch plate out of the housing. The replacement I got was from an Aprilia scooter. The model was, as mentioned, I believe S50. That is not critical, though. I have been reliably informed that Piaggio / Aprilia / Guzzi used the same type of locks for pretty much everything they built in that period. My Breva 750, for instance, also has the same thing in it. As far as I can tell, the same housing was used pretty much everywhere, and that is what is likely to break when dismantling the switch to clean it up. The scooter switch I got only had two positions: on or off. Without knowing for sure, I rather suspect that there was only one version with "park, lock, off, on" as in the V11. The trick is finding out what else had that in it. If it wasn't a Guzzi, the part would probably be cheaper...

Yes. Reports of shock eye failure, at the swingarm, go way back. More recently, reports of bolt failures at the reaction rod/frame junction on earliest V11 sport before Moto Guzzi superseded the bolt. Both are oft overlooked maintenance items, it seems . . .

That is what I was expecting, i.e. I expected to see grease come out of the join between the two parts of the shaft as an indication that there was enough grease in there. From my very reliable source I have been informed that (a) normally, excess grease does indeed come out past the O-ring, and (b) when one is greasing the spline with a grease gun and grease comes out of the join, that is already too much. According to my source, one or two pumps of the grease gun is enough. When I think about it, he's right. There is not much space in there. During the course of my experimentation, I pumped some grease into the dismantled end of the other shaft that I have. Two pumps put in enough to, I reckon, more than fill the available space. It might even be one of those fabled "less is more" situations.

That's done. I was pleased to discover, after having seen some unsettling pictures here, that that bolt on mine looks good as new, and was well greased as if someone had at some point actually done some maintainance on the bike. As far as the pivots on the shock go, as mentioned, I'll be getting another go at them.

Grease those pivot bolts liberally. As well as the pivot bolt for the reaction rod where it connects to the frame . . .

@audiomick You should try to make next year's edition of the Alpes Aventure Moto Festival in Barcelonnette France. I saw a Moto Guzzi stand in the background in the video below at some point. They have all kind of workshops, based on your ride.

No, I think you're right; if you grease it manually and annually, the bung is really just a dust shield anyway.

Driveshaft spline lubrication is more complicated than it seems it should be, not just ours. The main problems are 2; firstly, distributing the grease from the single entry point equally around all the splines. This is usually done by a circumferential groove under the zerk, or as it appears in the V11 shaft by putting the zerk in the endspace where it can find it's way through everywhere. The other problem is the hydraulic one; if you have a relief in the endspace, the grease finds it's way out without going through the splines. The hydraulic action is what drives the lubricant through the splines. On big heavy stuff like trucks, the pressure isn't an issue because the motion is very slow with little travel- by the time it's left the driveway, the shaft has generally gone through most of it's range of motion and made space. On ours, this may not be the case and that first big bump could hydraulic the shaft and um...interfere with suspension movement. My shaft has the zerk in the middle of the splines, and I'm not sure whether it has a distribution groove or not- but I don't grease the zerk anyway, I disassemble the shaft and apply open gear & cable lube manually. That way I'm assured everything is clean and lubed as it can be. So I'm with Phil on the sealing of the yoke end, and after greasing compressing the suspension manually as much as possible to get the range of motion freed up.

I think I've answered my question: I found a photo in the workshop manual, page 49 here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Looks like I'll be taking it out and turning it around...

I have a brand new drive shaft assembly as a spare and there is no bleed holes. So the yoke and shaft with the splines is one casting with a blanking cap fitted from the yoke end and staked in place. The flat sections you can see are the staking marks. The cap seats on the end of the splines internal end face. I would just clean out the grease thoroughly and drizzle some 5 min Araldite or the resin of your choice down inside the splined section to seal the cap from the inside. a small syringe and 1-2ml of resin. Easy. Phil

Nope. A physical fault would not explain the time factor, that without being touched the lights eventually come on, and every time. The capacitor effect explains. And, so far they're still off after cleaning. Interesting to note, my switch has 3 contact plates; nor are the 6 small contacts connected to anything.

Well if you change the bottom tree offset and leave the top the same then the fork leg bores need to be bored at a slight angle so they align. So now on the later forks the stem and the fork legs are not parallel. Just like an RC30 Honda and others for example. So the top and bottom triples are a matched set between the earlier and later. Phil

I have always thought that space was "sealed." Caution has always been advised not to over-grease and "hydro-lock" the sliding shaft junction. Maybe there is a relief "hole" that should be seen to?

On my bike, that hole looks more like an imperfection when it was made, but nevertheless it is necessary. Old grease gets thicker over years as the oil seeps out, leaving mostly the thickner/soap behind. If possible I try to scoop out or flush out old grease. Your picture appears to show fresh grease, which would be thinner (and better).

There's a thought. On the "against" side, that sort of wear would presumably only turn up when the "park" lights had been used very frequently, such that the step from "lock" to "park" has seen a lot of use. I almost never turn on the park lights, but maybe other people do. Edit: or maybe the switch is just generally worn out, and the detents are not that precise anymore. :scratching_his_head_and_thinking_emoji_that_we_desperately_need_here.

There's a hole in the back end of the shaft to allow excess grease to escape from inside. If that hole was blocked, then suspension movement would break something. Grease will cause a hydraulic lock.

I can't offer any worthwhile advice; I'm great at buying bikes,but I haven't mastered the art of selling them It might eliminate some of the deep pocket potential buyers,but I'd have a hard time letting a bike go on BAT. I don't know that much about the Lemans V model; Being probably the most capable of all the Tonti frames;it should be a very special bike to the right person. Glwts

So here is the definitive answer to the triple clamp offset question. Twenty years in the pursuit. This is what you get when you use a later top clamp on an early lower clamp with fork tubes fitted. The stem doesn't line up with the stem bore due to the different lower clamp offset. Another difference between the later and earlier lower clamps is the steering damper lug is 7mm longer on the later clamps so you need to machine that amount off the later clamps for the steering damper to fit correctly.

G'day folk's. I,ve also ridden a few BMW's over the years, mates not mine. R90S/R100RS early and the gutless Vanilla monoshock version /K100RS and RT. I'm 5' 11'' and also found that my legs didn't fit inside the RS fairing and had to splay them uncomfortably and the screen dumped the air right in my face! The bars tend to get to you after a while as well. It was a pity as I loved these when I was younger. The K RT had a bloody great barn door of a fairing and always felt that the leading edge was too close to my face on that, but it was very protective. If I HAD to own one I reckon I'd go for an R100S or CS but after the personality of my Guzzi that ain't gonna happen.... Cheers Ps If I were to have a bike for touring with the other half (no chance of that though!) I reckon a sorted T3 would be the go. But it'll be a cold day in Hades before I part with the V11....

I had the front wheel out a few days ago and the new wheel with the 25mm hollow axle and new tyre and disks is 2.2 KG lighter than the old front wheel, axle, disks and a partially worn tyre. So both wheels, the Titanium rear axle and the 25mm hollow front axle and bevel shroud removal saves 8.2 KG total. Not bad. I should have weighed the later clip ons as they are sure to be a bit lighter then the swan neck versions. I must weigh the bike and see whats the total weight. The 4 valve engine will weigh a fair bit more of course but the cross over and mufflers will be a lot less. Phil

The big GS is a remarkable motorcycle. I've ridden a few and I do like them, but not as much as my 2017 Stelvio NTX. I routinely go grocery shopping with the Stelvio... which means 40 minutes of twisty roads to the orchards in Pauma Valley. And return with a 25 pound bag of oranges (love my fresh-squeezed OJ) and whatever else is in season. I suspect this new Stelvio is the base model, and that there will some variants, such as another NTX with more aggressive tires, skid plate (look at that vulnerable exhaust) and all the crash bars. A big ADV bike is nice for dirt roads that you'd rather not ride a sport bike on - where there is a bit more risk of losing traction and kissing the ground. They are great for exploring past the "pavement ends" signs, but not great for technical terrain.

I am certain I am not the only one to write up an ad to sell something of my own and think, "Wow, this piece looks great, I should own this! And [he is] practically giving it away . . . "

More coolcats on cool Guzzis:

Relays: while I have purchased qty 5 of the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12, I have never installed them other than doing some trouble shooting when I was affected by the "no crank" issue. I have now 30,000 miles and counting. Staintune: my V11 is equipped with this exhaust. I scratched one of the cans, and when I checked Staintune, they were no longer in business, having been purchased by another Australian company. After reading your message, I checked again, and it seems they are on the net again, devoid of an exhaust system for the V11, or any Moto Guzzi for that matter. They have a contact form, so you may be able to get them to make one for you. This is how mine sounds: This is with the Mistral: https://www.facebook.com/reel/1919546008426964 The Mistral look very good on the V11...

Figured I'd toss this out there, was burrowing through 'Access Norton' ancient posts.

Yes. It was simply a cut and paste. Probably with scissors..