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Got back last night ... Now, I'm too busy ... Bill

Wow... The odo rolled over to 00000 again just before I got into the office yesterday morning! Now have 94 kilometres showing on it and still running like a champ! Cheers

While that is sound advice, that is usually more important for car brake rotors where they are turned down to resurface. There is a limit to how much you can turn them down before the reach their minimum thickness. Motorcycle brake rotors rarely wear enough for thickness to be an issue. I would say, if you have no braking issues you don't need to replace the rotors. If you have any pulsing or vibration in the brakes and it isn't the pads I would look into the rotors being the cause. To be fair, I haven't turned down car brake rotors in a long time. They have gotten cheap enough that I just replace them. Some car manufacturers don't even allow for turning down the rotors, they just replace them with the pads. Odd side note, as a brake rotor wears it looses mass. That reduced mass can lead to the brakes running hotter, the same amount of heat fed into a rotor with less mass results in the rotors temp being higher.

Just back from a I came back from a 1750 miles trip yesterday. Both Marlin's instruments are at least still on the bike; I did not loose them because they sheared from their support as with the Formotion. But that is the only positive point. The thermometer pointer was no longer connected to the sensor, or at least this is what I think happened. The clock was trailing time by several hours after I set it properly before my trip. I think it has to do with the torque from the V11; I noticed the seconds hand would have a hard time clearing between the 9 to 12 side of the quadrant while in motion. I need to make a video of the issue. Updated on September 27th 2023: I received the new thermometer from Marlin's and I replaced it. The pointer remains steady until I hit 60 miles an hour. Then it becomes unreadable, like the previous one. My conclusion is that the instruments are fine, they don't shear like the Formotion did, but the vibrations output of the V11 prevent them from working properly. I will attempt one last trial tomorrow. I will swap sides; installing the thermometer on the right, the clock on the left. If not, well at least I have determined that none of the analogical gauges will work, unless they are installed in the center of the bike.

I used Brembo T-Drive rotors, for the way they look; I use Braking brake pads exclusively where I can, and have for 30 years. There's something about the feel of Braking's pads that is buttery smooth while being very progressive and as strong as you can ask for and most importantly, as kind to rotors as anything I've ever abused.

You can use "Braking" disks or Galfer disks. I have used both. The part is as common a fit as mud. The Braking disks are mono directional so separate part numbers and the Galfer are Uni directional so same number. Same disk as my 2003 Ducati 1000SS and many other bikes. I can get the numbers if anyone needs them. I have the Braking disks on my 1000SS and the Galfers on the V11. Shopping around I think you can buy a pair new for around 550-600usd. Phil

A combination of Defender and Offender...

Saw this one on consignment as Motiv in OKC. Looks to be good bike. Needs a polish and some touch up to valve covers. Needs transmission brace which the shop will do. Also CF bikini fairing. https://www.motivcycleworks.com/

Brake discs (or rotors) have a nominal thickness when new and a minimum thickness under which they are supposed to be replaced. That minimum thickness is usually printed on the disc.

Thanks for the tips! Have contacted a few of the sellers, just waiting for a response from them. Somehow I do find it strange that these Brembo original discs still go for such a high price, considering they are used on a lot of bikes. Update: Just got a reply from my local Piaggio/Moto Guzzi dealer, they can supply the discs at 430 euro's a piece

Just make sure you email them before you order. I bought and paid for a new Brembo calliper from them a few weeks ago and they informed me they aren't available anymore which I already knew. So they don't stock stuff. They refunded my payment promptly but I lost out on the exchange rate and charges and they had my funds for 5 or 6 days. I mentioned this scenario in a recent post. None of these sellers carry stock and they don't keep track of the availability from their suppliers. Personally I'd go for wave disks myself. Phil

Hopefully to put a nail in this thread, it's 10 days since the last time I turned the key to 'off'. I had the cover up so I could see the taillight and looked every evening; it was never lit. Today, put the key in it, battery said 12.5v, started immediately and significantly, went straight to 14.0 volts in only a couple minutes; at the Spine Raid, the day we left it took nearly an hour to recover the battery to a steady 14.0, so I know that despite the easy start the battery was significantly discharged. Strange Magic.

It was the first Moto Guzzi I ever rode....

Remove the intake snorkel on a Griso and it makes a perfectly satisfactory intake honk. Mapped correctly you'll also get a tiny bit more bottom end and midrange.

I'm the wrong guy..lol..I don't wear my hearing aids when I ride......lucky I can hear its running ..(I think)

So, I said I'd take some photos. Here they are. Some of them are a bit dodgy, but most will know how that is. Greasy hands taking photos with a telephone in the garage... I mentioned further up that I got a replacement housing as part of a complete ignition switch from an Aprilia scooter. I think the model was S50. Here is a picture of the switch plate from the contact side. On the left the plate from the V11, on the right from the scooter. It is the same bit of plastic, but the V11 has a couple of contacts more than the scooter. This is the bit that makes the contacts from the contact side here, that bit is sitting on the contact plate, and one can see the ball bearings that provide the detente for the switch position. The following picture shows the inside of the casing with the indents for the detente visible. This picture and the next one show the order in which the bits go back together I wrote further up that one must work on the "visually obvious" retainer to get the switch plate out of the housing. This is the visually obvious hole for the relevant retainer. The other two retainers are in plain square holes. Here are a few pictures of the key lock from the V11 and from the scooter. The park lock is clearly visible on both; on the V11 lock the bolt is retracted but it is clear where it comes out, on the scooter lock the bolt doesn't retract any further than it is in the photo. The lock from the V11 is the one on the left, and the scooter the one on the right., And finally a picture of the housing that I broke whilst disassembling it. I suspect that the break is typical. To avoid breaking the housing, take your time, think about what you're doing (twice) be patient, and don't try to release all of the retainers. Get the obvious one free, and then rotate the switch plate out of the housing. The replacement I got was from an Aprilia scooter. The model was, as mentioned, I believe S50. That is not critical, though. I have been reliably informed that Piaggio / Aprilia / Guzzi used the same type of locks for pretty much everything they built in that period. My Breva 750, for instance, also has the same thing in it. As far as I can tell, the same housing was used pretty much everywhere, and that is what is likely to break when dismantling the switch to clean it up. The scooter switch I got only had two positions: on or off. Without knowing for sure, I rather suspect that there was only one version with "park, lock, off, on" as in the V11. The trick is finding out what else had that in it. If it wasn't a Guzzi, the part would probably be cheaper...

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