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You might be surprised how little it takes to make the engine rev up with no load on it. The throttle plates not closing all the way, something hanging up the throttle linkage as shown in the pic in the other thread would do it. Or an air leak between the throttle bodies and engine. A basic test of whether the throttle bodies are closed all the way (or near it) might be to open the fast idle lever and see if doing so opens the throttle bodies a little. It should. You can do that test visually with the engine off, just watch the throttle bodies to see if they move when you pull on the fast idle lever. If the throttle bodies move when you pull on the fast idle lever the throttle bodies are closing, which would mean the air leak is probably somewhere else. The throttle bodies could be popped of the intake boots, or the fittings used to balance the throttle bodies might be open to the atmosphere. If the throttle bodies don't move when the fast idle lever is pulled something is holding the throttle bodies open. I would first check to see if there is any slack in the throttle cable. If there is, it is likely something is hanging up the throttle linkage down at the throttle bodies. If there is no slack, something may be miss-adjusted in the throttle cable or hanging up at the throttle on the handlebars. I would also check to see if the throttle wheel is sitting on the throttle stop. It needs to be. It could be that the throttle cable has popped out of the fitting that secures it on either end. Sadly, this is something you really need to look at to find where the issue is.

Pete Thanks for the reply and sorry to bother you with this. Ex Sydneysider here (and part Kiwi but don’t hold that against me, OK?) 100% behind you, your beliefs and intentions. Same guy here! Not sure how many people may want one but I’ll look at making 4 or 5 and will sell them with attribution to you and a donation to MSF. Will post more details once I get the file. I’ll message pressureangle …. Thanks! Andrey

I'm still around. I'm more than happy for others to manufacture plates to my design. What shits me is when I'm not given credit for the design and people pocket all the profit. By all means make a few bucks to cover your time and effort but if selling them to people add enough to the cost to make a donation to MSF. I don't think that's too much to ask? Simply stealing someone else's work without any by-your-leave like the pricks in Huddersfield did and selling it without any attribution or charitable donation shits me to tears but as I've said before, every morning I wake up in Bungendore. They wake up in f*cking Huddersfield! That fills me with great joy!

I sold him a set this morning docc..shipping tomorrow

I have zero interest in the Stelvio, but am glad to see a new Stelvio as it is hopefully a precursor to a proper Guzzi with the new engine. A modern V11 Sport / LeMans using that engine would be wonderful. Or maybe a modern Griso. Heck, I would love an MGS-01 with that engine, but I suspect that is a bridge too far.

Absolutely. One of the positive connections at the battery was touching a bit of metal that isn't a part of the electrical system. There are many connections to the battery's positive terminal, including a quick connection for a trickle charger. The quick connection was the issue. I removed the connections and then put them back in a manner where this was no longer an issue. As for the high idle, after more tests, it's not simply a "high" idle. Upon starting the engine, it revs fully, as if I'm fully opening the throttle. It seems to be a problematic cable, or something gummed up within the throttle body. Or it's simply running overly lean?

Just some thoughts: I believe the reason No Mar uses the mounting bar they use is that nothing touches the face of the wheel. The Mojolever rides along the face of the wheel but as far as I can tell, doesn't mar anything and is much easier. When I first got the NoMar, I couldn't mount my tires with it. I had to use levers. So, I decided I needed practice so I bought two motorcycle wheels (17 inch sports wheel) and a early 2000's 16 inch Harley wheel. After practicing on the old tires that came with the wheels, I then bought new tires for each of these wheels as well as a tire warmer. I discovered that for me, the yellow thing doesn't work but a bead holder (https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Changer-Clamp-Machine-Wheels/dp/B0CF1QNN81/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?hvadid=580709605591&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9009899&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14746983431188596350&hvtargid=kwd-36150832978&hydadcr=7484_13212580&keywords=tire%2Bbead%2Bholder&qid=1698799128&sr=8-11-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1 works well. I own 5 of them and use them when I use the No Mar mounting bar - one in place of the yellow thing and then, as I get some of the tire on, I stop and use another of the bead clamps. I generally have to use 3, about 90 degrees apart. I have no luck pushing the tire down with my hand like the videos show. I also use these clamps when using the Mojo Lever. With lots a practice, I've gotten pretty good with the No Mar. I've looked at just about every You Tube video on the Rabaconda. Time wise, the Rabaconda is faster to mount the tire to the machine. Mounting the tire to the No Mar generally required bead holders for me. However, once mounted, the No Mar is very makes easy work of tire removal. In my opinion, the Rabaconda needs a better "gear ratio" with its lever. Frank

@thelonewonderer Can you explain the first sentence a little better ? It will benefit the people that took time to help you .

Another interesting spin on this philosophical debate....... KaleV11's 2001 V11 sport blew the original motor because the oil pick up assembly was loose and starved the motor. The FBF high compression piston motor that the late Mike Wells had built for me (I'm the previous owner). Anyways, after many years broken in his garage, Kale bought an 04 hydraulic EV motor from a salvage company and installed. Its hooked up to the original transmission, power commander, everything. He has rode it since, although it seems to have a little less HP.....

I made no argument here. My answer was on a joking tone which is always difficult to express through pixels on a screen. Independently to where the initial post fits in the Forum.

I wouldn't worry about that now. That will burn up in no time. As for the fast idle, check your linkage, and the "choke" cable. it gets hung up sometimes, mine did.

Only 4770 miles... another one for your consideration @p6x https://reno.craigslist.org/mcy/d/imlay-2014-moto-guzzi-stelvio-ntx-abs/7682691438.html

From the sealing face on the sensor flange to the centre of the sensor is 135mm plus the 2 mm thick sealing washer so 137mm total. I made the sealing washers myself from HDPE and will make any plastic components I need from the same if the final design needs a plastic component. Phil

Or, as Meinolf would tell us, precisely 157 mV.

I seem to recall reading (from Beard) that the ECU can only read a minimum value of 3.9 degrees. To set the throttle bodies manually, a multi-meter is recommended. The voltage at fully closed should be about 150 mV. .

@DucatiGuzziIndian/Andrey, Thanks for the interest in offering this to the community! At last roll call (May 2023), there were eight parties interested in nine plates before @Dragonknee inquired in October making a potential for ten (to be verified): Curious how this latest, authorized, run might be inscribed . . . "Rusty Star Picket Project Redux " . . . ? The last genuine original motomoda plate:

Has this need been met, @BillyB ? Thread can be marked answered or taken care of, if so? Thanks . . .

You're going back there docc.

That the door-bell got rung about a dozen times yesterday evening in the hour after sunset. Little kids who have no idea why they are doing it, but someone told them they will get lollies and stuff if they do. As my girlfriend and I are both grumpy old farts, we didn't answer the doorbell.... PS: I reckon, if German kids are going to be taught to go from door to door annoying people, it should rather be for something like this than something that has absolutely no base in German tradition... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martinisingen

Throttle cable/linkage interference caused my high idle problem....

That whole cable system from the twist throttle,right down to the adjustment knob on the end of the linkage rod is worthy of attention,when the tank is off & things are easy to work on. It's never stuck on me riding,but when I had my Lemans up on the lift & I was twisting the throttle,while I was rerouting the cable at the cam trying to smooth things out & the white plastic knob on the end of the linkage rod got hung up badly; I adjusted things to eliminate any interference for the full range of movement. As docc says;time well spent here, fettling & feathering

"Halloween" here in The States. Not sure what that means to the rest of the world. Hell, I'm not sure what that means here! Or even where I left my Green Manalishi . . .

I built the motor in my '85 LeMans 1000; famous for not-city-friendly drivability stock, but pretty quick. I added a half-point of compression, stupid good ported heads and a Web 86b camshaft that took more shade-tree engineering to fit than anything I'd done by myself previously. It is absolutely glorious to ride. Perfect throttling from idle, smooth power from 2k rpm up (although you can over carburet it at low RPM if you try) and fast as F**k, boiii... At the end of the day, it's a little smoother, a little more docile, and just enough faster than my stock-with-pipes and MyECU 1100 Sport-i to say it's a certainty. Not enough difference to spend any time or money making the 'Sport any faster or more drivable- which by the way, is nearly impossible to improve both at the same time on a bike that was pretty fast and drivable to begin with. My reading says that Crane Cams designed the lobes in the 'Sport, and I've dealt with them for decades long enough to know that what's in there is the best balance between power and drivability, within the confines of durability.

Make sure the fast idle lever is not holding the throttle slightly open and that there is sufficient slack in the throttle cable when it is closed. What most would call a "choke" is really just a fast idle lever on the V11. It simply holds the throttle open slightly when you pull on the lever to activate. It is not really a choke. Also make sure the throttle bodies are firmly and securely seated in the intake rubbers. And make sure there are no cracks in the intake rubbers. Anything that lets additional air in will raise the idle. Also, see if the rpms change at idle if you turn the handlebars all the way left and right. If they do, you don't have enough slack in the throttle cable. And see this thread / image.

This is a beautiful bike cosmetically at least. Still a V11 so it belongs here in the forum. It seems cheap too. https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2001-Moto+Guzzi-CALIFORNIA+EV-5028126182

Nothing wrong with the original post. I took your joking tone and tried to reply in kind. I don't think my reply came back as funny as I meant it . . . At one time, there was some consensus that "Commercial Classifieds" are best focused on Moto Guzzi models, but that "Personal Classifieds" are for anything a member has to sell. Where the non-Spine Frame V11 content gets confusing is in Technical Topics and 24/7 V11. Those subfora really are for SpineFrame V11 (LeMans and Sport variants). Otherwise, we have "Older Models" for the Tonti variants, even though "Older Designs" might be more correct. That aside, let's part this EV out! The motor will bolt up to a 6speed in a spine frame, although it has different heads, smaller valves, and a gentler cam (different pistons/ compression ratio, as well?) Aren't the white face Veglia instruments the same? Not sure what else a SpineRaider could use off an EV . . .

$4k, that's what I paid for this one. And it was the bike that was photo'd for "Motorcyclist" magazine. It's got 70k on it now

This. Slow idle damages the flywheel teeth, clutch splines, and transmission input hub because of the uneven firing order.

A pox on you and other haters. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/forum/37-older-models/ My '98 EV, with its 107K, was "Bike of the Month" here many years ago. Mine sits just now on my lift in the Moto Grappa awaiting a major service, tho its only known "need" is to R&R injectors. Bill

I don't spend that much time at idle though....

My experience is that a V11 idle below 1000 rpm is a bad idea on several levels. Better to pump oil and even out the power pulses. No Guzzi has been injured with a higher idle. Idle lower at your peril . . .

Nice video from TLM...

This so reminds of getting all giddy over a V7 loop-frame. Then wanting another gear in the box. Maybe another 50cc. How about disc brakes? A Tonti frame. Maybe another 100cc, even up to a thousand ? Some bigger valves, a better cam . . . bigger carbs? Better wheel sizes . . . How about a Spine Frame? Fuel injection . . . different drive ratios with 6speeder to settle the engine/shaft angles . . . but still two valves, air cooled . . . It always just brings me back home . . .

Known issues on the later V11 with the "bent tube" speedo cables/ black face instruments (after the early, fussy "angle driven" cables to the white face Veglia) . . . Not only can the later "bent tube" cable housing foul the throttle rod, but are a common cause for a broken cable . . .

That is a beautiful statement, especially considering the source.