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. . . from https://www.motoitaliane.it/ With a recent (late 2023) Dr. John (Wittner) interview . . . https://www.motoitaliane.it/en/prodotto/dr-johns-moto-guzzi/ (pre-orders being accepted for April production . . .)

Link to mates You Tube video

Ride it....

Im Baaaack ...after 20? Years... Looking to change Balabio bars to clipons ala my 02 LeMans... looking for info, ideas and sales. I imagine a lot of sport- LeMans riders went the other way and lots of clipons around out there

It's not about the accuracy predominantly Mick it's about the consistency and the fact that with the throttle blades gently cable tied shut you have one less thing to think about and check and also the blades don't try and follow the TPS as you adjust it. Phil

I might be just misreading this, but (to my knowledge) all LongFrame V11 from 2002 on were fitted with the 5.5" rear rim and delivered with a 180 section tire. Many owners decided to use a 170, instead. Likewise, all of the 1999-2001 RedFrame Sport and 2001 ShortFrame Rosso Mandello had 4.5" rear rims, delivered with 170 tires. Again, many of us found the 160 to our liking on the narrower rim. FWIW, I searched three of the big US distributors and found a lot of Pirelli out of stock (not just this size). The Pirelli website shows two choices in the 170/60-17 in the Angel GT II, not none in the Angel GT or the Angel ST . . . https://www.pirelli.com/tires/en-us/motorcycle/catalog/product/angel-gt-ii [I was such a Pirelli devotee for so long. Until they moved their manufacturing to China, yet the prices went up.]

I'm not fan of MM93 but following another rider doesn't bother me. Interfering during qualifying and in the race, dangerous moves and taking rides out, another issue. It's is racing. Drafting and sizing up another rider, following lines, well that's racing

Oh oh.... first day back and I'm making enemys..... Oh well gotta start somewhere ...with Ratchet gone. .. speaking of mobs with pitchforks. .. And how difficult is the cure for Turtle Head Syndrome. ? ... im sure there's PAGES.... Just looking for a 1 to 10 PIA rating. Nice to be back.. !

Unlike the (IMO) disparaging descriptor "PorkChops " , that no one will admit to coining, "Turtle Head " can always be brought back to our bud, OuijiVeck. In case a bunch of Ballabio show up in the driveway with pitchforks, burning torches . . .

Haha: the "Turtle Head" fairing! Too funny. This set-up was introduced with the 2003 Ballabio and used on the Café Sport, Coppa Italia, and Scura R (all with handlebars). There were "Sports" produced throughout the 1999-2005 model range that use the close-fitting instrument/headlamp brackets. There have only been two wheelbases throughout the range: the early 1999-2001 "RedFrame" and 2001 Rosso Mandello, and the "LongFrame" (about 3/4" longer at the headstock) was introduced with the 2002 LeMans and remained through the end of the model range (probably the 2005 Scura R). Very thorough frame thread here:

Hey DOCC ! Yer still hanging 'round this house of ill repute ? HA ! Thanks... not sure how to navigate around here. I'm figuring there's gotta be lots of clippons laying around. I remember seeing people looking for taller bars for their LeMans !! "Oh the HUMANITY !!!!" So...long story stupid.... I strayed from the cult 1.5 years ago when I got rid of my too FAT ...pig Norge. Loved it when it was rolling but stopped or paddle footing around a campground as I'm oft want to do it was too much for my 29inch inseam siatica old self. So... I decided to return to my cute lil' old sweetheart 94 900SS Duc... but I needed a good luggage sys...Givi? and shopping for same a set came up mounted to an 08 Kawasaki Versys. After reading about it and looking at specs I bit the hook. .. Really an amazing fun fast nimble little syfy machine but after 1.5 yrs it's gotta go. Miss the thump. ..so...shopping for a LeMans all up n own the east coast a couple sports have come up and an 04 Balabio for VERY CHEAP ....15kmi 3k$ ...! BUT !!! No I don't like the bars ...and yea.. the Turtle Head fairing is sticking WEIRDLY too far out of its shell...... ha! It also has a 1inch longer wheel base. I loved the way the LM power through 80mph sweapers like a brick then did 35mph switch backs like a ballarina....a 600lb ballerina but ...always so sure footed. Will 1 inch in the WB feel different ? Dunno..3k$ though. Good to be back. Good to see you. Is nasty old Ratchet still around???? Ha !!!

Have REALLY been happy with my Metzeler Z8's, the sport touring version of the M7rr.

I suggest you read the above thread until the end. I am currently having Michelin Road 6 being fitted to my V11 Le Mans. I had Michelin Road 5 all 2023, and I put more than 10,000 miles on them. When it comes to tires, we are all pretty opinionated on what we think is the best choice for our V11. I personally liked the Road 5 from Michelin because they have dual compound front and rear. Now all choices are subjective. Michelin is about the most expensive available on the market.

Well, duh. Some times I don't type what I'm thinking.. the only time it has to be hot is when you *change* the CO, like Docc said.

Finally got around to furthering the Quest to set the TPS base value. After a first attempt several weeks ago, in which I had neglected to screw out the idle screw and make sure the "choke" wasn't holding the throttle valve open, and I measured 500 mV, I did it right today. The TPS had apparently not been readjusted since the bike left the factory about 65,000 km. ago. There was still yellow and red sealing paint on both screws. What I found was 250 mV. I reset it, aiming for the 157 mV that Meinolf recommends. With the movement that happens when it is all screwed up tight, I landed at between 159 and 160 mV. Given that the workshop manual states a tolerance of +/- 15 mV, I reckon that is ok. After fiddling around with the "choke" a bit to see how it might be best set up, I tried starting it. The starter button funny business reared its ugly head again, but she started after about 4 or 5 depressing clicks. First time since about last June. Idle was ok to be going on with. I hope to be able to spend some more time on it tomorrow and finish off the "decent tune up".

This ^^^ If the "average" break points through the 157-> 4800 mV range is 18.1 Mv (+/- 9), can the closer break points for the lower throttle angles be derived?

A further quote from Meinolf from the same post, which confirms what Phil wrote about the non-linear response of some TPSs, I believe the earlier ones, which includes the V11: "The difference may seem small, but a meticulous adjustment of this value is absolutely necessary. The interpolation points are so close together in the low load range that a shift of one row can quickly occur due to normal wear and tear in conjunction with the function of the ADC. And this is immediately noticeable in the low load range." Meinolf was writing regarding a California Vintage, but I believe the ECU and throttle bodies were more or less the same as the ones in the V11.

Quote from Meinolf (via DeepL.com) from the German forum: "Furthermore, the 8-bit ADC used in the 15M/RC has a very low resolution, it can only calculate in steps of 5V / 256" Regarding 8-bit resolution: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8-bit_computing#Details 256 steps. Regarding what Phil wrote about the non-linear TPS response, yes I have read that elsewhere, and consider that to be accurate. @docc if you think this is worth splitting off, go for it.

Depends on where you are in the TPS range from memory docc and what TPS you have the linier or non linier. Also there are 256 break points but they are not distributed evenly. From 1000 rpm to 3000rpm and 2.4 degrees to 12.7 the there are more break points then the rest of the range so you have finer throttle control at smaller throttle angles. Phil

This is very interesting stuff to the pedantic amongst us! (We may have to take this discussion to a dedicated thread as these "catch-all threads" just swallow our discussion up.) Seeing your pedantic, and raising you an eyebrow: One must consider the range is 4800 minus the 157 (4643). With 256 steps, one step is 18.1 mV (or +/- 9). I thought I read the 7mV steps from Meinolf, but will have to try and find that reference . . . I still maintain the Workshop Manual addendum of +/- 15 mV is suspect.

Needs more verys. Especially before the interesting...

Another thought regarding fixing the throttle valve down with cable ties, or pushing it shut to do the "base level" measurement: I observed today that pushing the throttle shut changed the measured voltage by about 4 mV. On the basis of that, I reckon there is no point in taking the extra effort to tie or push it shut. Make sure it is clean and unhindered, let it snap shut a couple of times, and do the measurement. Any further measures just wont make a significant difference.

Thanks again audiomic... The wheelbearring thing was a problem with the casting of the mags. The ID of the mags varied slightly but the spacers were all the same resulting in pre mature bearing failure. Bit me at about 30k mi. Relays I'll just carry some spares. Shift spring bit me too. I bought 2 and kept 1 in the tank bag for years along with my sawed off 17mm wrench. Still have the wrench...maybe my spare spring is around...somewhere.... Shocked and DISMAYED to hear one might NOT be sourseable... That would scuttle any plans of V 11 purchase. Up shits creek without one. I'll read the thread. I'll have one in hand before I'd buy the bike. Thx again.

Wheel bearing: what? don't know that one. Shift spring: no, not really, as far as I have been able to tell. A solution was found here in the forum. If you're lucky, you might still be able to get one. Look here (it's a very, very long thread, but interesting) : The relays: there has been quite some research done in that direction. Look here, also a very long thread:

Of course. The more accurate, the better. As it happens, I am quite concerned with accuracy. Some might even say "annoyingly pedantic". Looking at the "official" tolerance serves more to help me sleep well at night than to excuse my unwillingness to get it right. My difficulty is more in the direction of recognising when it is well and truly good enough.

What docc said... As I recall the 170 came stock on V11 Sports that had the 4.5" wheel, and a 160 fits better. The 170 is a little wide for a 4.5" wheel. The bikes that came with a 5.5" rear wheel came with a 180 rear tire I thought. While going to a 170 is an option, as you mentioned a 170 is not a common size tire and may be hard to find. That is the nature of going for an odd size tire. Also, it looks like it is mainly the Pirelli option that is out of stock. Other brands are in stock.

Taking the TPS from 250mV to 160 should give you some outstanding results across the map! I would still rather strongly suggest that the +/- 15 mV in that addendum of the Workshop Manual is highly inadvisable if you have time to make it right. Based upon reported findings from the Look-up Tables, 157mV +/- 3.5mV is most accurate and desirable. Even with that tight tolerance, your 160mV checks out!

Comments here better left alone. But absolutely agree, each rider set their best time, period . Cheers Tom.

V11 Sports come with either a 4.5" wide rear wheel or a 5.5" wide rear wheel. If you have the 4.5" wide rear wheel (that is the typical size on the earlier V11 Sports) a 160 rear tire works well. If you have the 5.5" wide rear wheel of the later V11 Sports a 180 will fit that wheel size fine. I prefer the narrower 160, but only if you have a 4.5" wide rear wheel. Putting a 160 on a 5.5" wide wheel isn't a good fit. Confirming which size rear wheel would be step 1 to me. From there, it is pretty hard to pick a bad tire choice with what is out there now. I like Michelins, but Pirelli, Dunlop, Metzler, they are all fine choices. I like the multi-compound tires available now. But that is not that important unless you rack up a lot of miles a year. I usually end up replacing tires because of age before mileage (except on my 401, which seems to have worn out the OEM tire in less then 5,000 miles).

Yeah, it has gotten out of hand. It is not just him doing it, but he is one of the worst offenders. It actually makes me want them switch to a different qualifying format, like one at a time single lap runs. Send them out a half lap apart one at a time. To me someone needing a carrot in front of them to get their best lap time was always a sign of a novice. Makes it funny that one of the highest regarded motorcycle racers in the world falls into that category, funny that he needs someone in front of him to use as a reference. It isn't just the draft aspect of it, at least with Marc it is about having that reference in front of him. Sad.

Thanks mate. You know when I was growing up in ChCh in 60's and 70's I can't recall ever seeing a Guzzi. Not one! I left in 80 and got back in 85 for almost a year and still can't recall seeing one! Now when I watch ole mates video's, especially this one I'm staggered by the diversity and amount of them in NZ! Cheers Guzzler

Well, mine would have to actually start first... The early models, although not really lighter, have a cleaner, more compact look. The longer ones have that cantilevered fairing - good thing I'm sitting behind it. LM plastic always struck me as bulbous. Would like something in between, but I'm playing Goldilocks here.

Hilarious... I'm safe from them for the moment as she's holidaying down at the coast with the mechanic.... But must remember to keep an eye out for these marauders seeking retribution for this slander when she returns!

Ha ha Turtle head! Yeah, I thought it was quite an apt description too! Cheers

Looking like we have everyone but just checking with a couple people. Looks like I may have 1 plate left over (that was probably for Joe) but we'll see how things go. I'll send him a message... Thanks

Or you could use Docc's kid. 11 bucks a year, I think. https://imgzeit.com

Hi, I have just checked with a magnet as @docc suggested and it is aluminum. Thanks again for all the input. Cheers Jody

@KernowNZ, Can you stick a little magnet to that silver part (the actual flywheel)? Not rusty "could" = aluminum . . . If the flywheel (silver part) is not magnetic (aluminum), not likely the clutch (not visible without disassembly) has been changed from the original single plate . . .

That sounds like a twin plate clutch to me. My single plater is quiet engaged and a slight high pitched rattle (more of a swishing sound) when disengaged. My old twin plater sounded like yours does. Check the flywheel access hole and see if it's been change to a twin plater by the PO. BTW if you snap the clutch lever in and out of engagement at idle once it'll reduce the rattle by about 75% each time. The RAM single plater is the best individual mod you can do to a Guzzi big twin. Phil

@alannn, I did find this metal core gasket (part number B063861), posted by Rolf Halvorsen, that sandwiches the plate (one above, one below). [The OEM "paper" gasket for the V11 is GU01003650. The OEM sump to spacer gasket is GU01003600. I did not find the metal core equivalent for that one.

Nancy Wilson's guitar intro, here. But, then all of the guitars. What a performance . . .

Well, you can see the CO Fuel Trim existing setting when cold, but cannot change it until the motor is at operating temperature.

Hi, a short update. Concerning the PF4C, Finland comes to the rescue. MotoMatti (https://translate.google.de/translate?hl=en&sl=fi&u=http://www.motomatti.fi/&prev=search) built a contraption to measure angle and voltage. A friend will send him a PF4C, so eventually we will have the curve of the PF4C equation. Jeff, the CEO of CA Cycleworks, replied to my inquiry. Unfortunately he hasn*t measured a PF4C. And, more great news. Beard (the wizard who programmed GuzziDiag) found out which which addresses of the EEPROM need to be changed to adopt a PF1C (that's the TPS with a known linear curve but holes instead of oval openings). I ordered a PF1C on Alibaba (11$ incl. shipping) and will test it on my ECU bench upon arrival. And the TPS lookup table can be taken from most 15RC BINs, as the PF1C is the OEM TPS. So, all is well Cheers Meinolf