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The first things to check . Look at your cylinder head temp sensor connector and air temp sensor connector . If they are not connected or the sensors are bad the PCM will think these temperatures are COLD and your bike will get this low mileage result . Are you capable of testing with an electrical meter ? You can test these sensors to see if they are open (bad) or not.

coppa Italia is in for full service, suspension rebuild and a lot of other stuff. Hopefully I'll be set of a summer of twisty roads and smiles...

To my knowledge, yes. The TRX Yamaha made, back in the mid 90's was the first mainstream offset crank parallel twin. Other brands like Honda had made offset cranks work for V twins, allowing them to get less vibration from narrow angle V twins. But the TRX was the first mainstream offset crank parallel twin as far as I know. The same engine also went into the TDM 850, which was already on sale with a 360 crank parallel twin. The 270 parallel twin was pretty much the 360 engine with a 270 crank and matching cams. I seem to recall there was a more cafe version of the TRX that never came here, but I could be wrong. I just seem to recall seeing a picture of one in white with a red trellis frame that was beautiful but never came to the USA. I wanted it. So, the offset crank parallel twin has been around for near 3 decades. But it is surging in popularity right now. After Yamaha did it, there was really no one else for a long time. Yamaha took the same basic tech and made the Cross Plane R1 motor, but there wasn't much going on with Parallel twins for years. Everyone wanted a V twin despite the parallel twins better engine packaging. The sideways V twin on a Guzzi works well, but a proper 90 degree V twin that isn't sideways is very hard to properly fit in a compact motorcycle chassis. It clearly can be done, but it isn't always done right (see the TLR).

G'day mate. Very timely post this! Sorry I didn't have time to respond yesterday as was working from home and had a wee look here when quiet! I actually finished early and headed down to pick up my bike from Rob ( Mechanic) in Warneet! Whilst I was there I mentioned your issue with only getting 150-175 K's from a tank and he expressed surprise too!He thought it sounded like a bad sensor....! Anyways I asked if he'd be ok to take a look at it for you and said ok. It's Rob Grant from Guzzi Repairs.You can get his # by googling Guzzi Spares and disregard the address in Cranbourne as he now works from home in Warneet! ( send me an email if you have any dramas finding it mate...I think my email is on my profile) I don't know whereabouts you are, but I can vouch for Rob's workmanship mate, he's been servicing my bike for some years now and he's a bloody good bloke too! Cheers Guzzler Ps I would not under any circumstances take my bike to the Official agents here in Victoria but that's up to you. Pps I was in the Guzzi club but recently let my membership lapse, good bunch of people but as I explained to Ferg I just don't have the time to be able to participate in club events of late due to family commitments but will rejoin again when I retire in a few years.

Have you checked the web for Italian labor union strikes? There may be some sympathy programmed in somewhere. Couple of months ago, My V11 would not activate the starter on one particular day. Key off and on numerous times, pump priming, clutch in and out. Finally had to pop a vein and bump start it. Cleaned the micro-plunger in the clutch safety micro switch, the micro switch clicked in and out as it should. Was fine for a couple of weeks, then did it again, but has not ever since. I do now tend to park with a grade to bump start it though. We hear a lot about "AI" these days. I am much more concerned with "IE" - Italian Electrics.

Hi @docc going back to your frame enquiry, it is a Centauro frame but it’s had the ‘Raceco chop’ which reduces the rake by 1.5 degrees. I can’t measure the wheelbase atm as the engine is out! I wanted something a bit more nimble than the usual spine frame, hence the chop and Dymags. The handling is certainly lighter and turn-in is sharper, so some satisfaction that time and money was well-spent 😊

I bought my Cafe Sport at 62000kms. First thing I did was give it some love. Stripped brakes including calipers, cleaned and reassembled. Serviced rear shock. New Wheel bearings (Cheap so may as well). New swing arm bearings. While it was off checked and greased the driveshaft (it was out of alignment so something to check). New plugs fuel and air filter. Engine Oil and filter. Gearbox and bevel box oil replacement. Valve clearances done. I then followed the "Decent Tune Up" guide here and it has been so reliable. The forks had been serviced prior to my purchase. The only things that have subsequently failed are the starter motor (Became noisy so replaced it) and one relay so I changed the lot out as they are cheap. Its and easy bike to work on. The clutch is noisy, and I dread tackling that job. Doc's 100000 mile clutch replacement gives me confidence it will last for a while yet. People who have ridden the bike say it rides like a new one. I wouldn't worry about 50000 miles. Just go over it taking note of what advice is in this thread.

Without wanting to de-rail the thread, I will be "forced" to ride one of the bikes to work tommorow. There will be a public transport strike, the weather will be acceptable, and I got the Breva 750 and the V11 Le Mans to a state in which I am prepared to ride them again last week. The only question is which one: the bike will be parked on the street near the opera into the evening. 1 point against the V11. It's only about 4.5 km, which is just enough to get the Breva more or less warm, but not really enough for the V11. Another point. So the Breva would be the sensible choice. But I really, really want to ride the V11. We'll see tomorrow morning. PS: neither of them have been ridden for the last couple of months. I've had the batteries out and on the charger, so I think they'll be right. Nevertheless, I think I'll take both keys with me when I go down to the courtyard to leave for work (4 floors, no elevator...)

That's a lot of effort just to make a parallel twin sound like a Guzzi.

G'day mate Is it from the oil cooler? I just had the infamous breather hose replaced on my V11 Sport which did the same thing and it's whereabouts and where it bursts would lead you to think it was something disastrous... Just asking... Cheers Guzzler

Me either, not sure if it's a one off. The previous owner is a member of the Guzzi club Genova. I will ask him where those came from.

The Breva. I've got the day off tomorrow, and it looks like it will be mostly dry. I'll be out on the V11 for sure.

Hey Doc, I have a black cali vintage coming. 2008. It has a single seat conversion and retro Eldorado style side panels. looks fun but I will put the standard skunk seat back on. I need to figure out how to post pictures...

Probably best to replace the cooler, though I’m not convinced it’s essential. On my 1225 V10, I made the decision to delete the cooler to save weight, and fitted a deep V sump with external filter. A bit of a gamble but I could always revert if proved wrong…. I don’t intend to mix it in heavy traffic either. Initially, I was a bit concerned as oil temp crept up quickly to over 100 in suburban use. However, I found it was running lean and with a better map it copes quite happily in suburban use and settles to about 85 on the open road. Goes better too🤗

Very nice bike. It makes my naked Daytona look pedestrian. Very nice.

Thanks for your input, I don’t think it’s one of them🤞it is a Guzzi Daytona item with new rose joints, but thank you anyway. ….and Kevin, the transmission is stock - except for the torque rod. It looks a bit different as the swingarm is nickel plated. Maybe it’s that?

Thing is the V11 has a thermostat, as do the two valve CARC bikes so all you have to do is copy the plumbing for an 850 Griso that doesn't have an oil cooler and I reckon you'd be golden. Having said that just buying an aftermarket cooler makes far more sense. The later 8V's only have a cooler in the actual cooling circuit which doesn't have a thermostat. That is a huge pain as for most of the year it's almost impossible to get the oil up to temperature. Many of us owners blank the cooler off in winter to get the oil temp above 70*C!

Mine got dropped off at my front door yesterday and I haven’t had a minute to look at it yet. Big thanks to @DucatiGuzziIndian for undertaking this project!! Now I wonder what’s gonna happen to all those fat aluminum Roper plates . . . Hmm . . . I reckon they’d make some nice trivets

Looks like audiomick and others have thoughts on where u might go. I enjoyed visiting Melbourne, wouldn’t mind going back especially this time of year, but as an Oregonian I don’t know any guzzi techs over there :-> I could however recommend some good wine tasting places in McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley, which is only 8hrs away 😉 The “decent tuneup” from docc is key, even for those who have and use tech shops near them, where they may have techs do some things their own way that may not be ideal. I can say with confidence that it ain’t the shop, it’s the individual doing the work that matters. (Not that you can’t have the right person overseeing someone else’s work, but you get the idea). The “laptop magic” I’m referring to would be part of the tune up, and could address things that are part of your fuel burn issue, but unlikely to be any kind of silver bullet. In broader terms however, the “computer magic” pertaining more to your ecu map and exhaust configuration may be a hot lead. Don’t need a dyno for that, but do need to know if your bike is chipped or re-mapped (and the laptop can show the map)

I have a long laundry list of things that usually go wrong on the Quota.... The voltage regulator, the electrical fuel cocks (2 of them for good measure), but also the rims crack with time, and I was told not a question of if, but a question of when... Given that the current owner has no idea other than the engine runs, I am going there with no expectation other than it is Red at least. He only wants $2950, but when I add the tires, I am going to get over $3500. Unless we split the cost.

Mate, Drouin is not that far out of Melbourne (or are you in the Western Suburbs?). Why don't you go and visit Guzzler to swap experiences? I would, but the ride from Germany would take a couple of days... Incidentally, regarding your question Did you follow up on this?

I don't think I had ever heard Tommy Emmanual play a 12-bar blues in E before. Thanks for that! The man is quite brilliant, I reckon.

What brand is that? I don't want to alarm you, but there was one on the German market at the time that was very prone to giving up the ghost. Let me know the brand, and I'll go looking in the German forum for where I read about it. Maybe it is the same one, maybe not.

My fingers are crossed. Have a good trip. Hopefully successful.

Mate My V11 Sport has open Mistral cans Stucchi crossover & open air box lid.. The ECU has been re-mapped to suit and I get 250 kays before the low fuel light comes on ( if I behave ) so I think somethings wrong there! Cheers

Thank you all for your replies. Thanks for the eBay link, Lucky - I'll go down that path. I was expecting prohibitive costs, & I didn't win the lottery last night, but I can stretch myself to that. Cheers

I've been a Pomplamoose fan for years

I got my plate today. It's actually for a friend of mine as I already have one. Thanks again to @DucatiGuzziIndian!

Thanks, @Weegie. That is the same procedure I found in the Daytona manual (for the 16M ECU and not-sure-which TPS). The V11 Sport/LeMans TPS/15M ECU benefit from a more accurate setting, 156.3 +/- 5 Mv (pending the various factors limiting this degree of accuracy). The misleading statement in the V11 manual may have been simply carried over from the prior (Daytona) procedure (conjecture being investigated) and has led to various difficulties tuning the V11 TPS. I am curious if this (misleading, IMO) section from the V11 Workshop Manual [provided to us by @Speedfrog] appears in this form in any of the manuals for the previous generation Guzzi with the 16M ECU:

Very interesting bike! Nicely done, Sir! I am curious about the wheelbase and fork rake of the Centauro frame (?) BTW, you can create an Album in Member Galleries to share more pics of your bikes without the resizing issue . .

Wow, stunning! I have always loved "Gulf" racing colors and the Gulf/Guzzi logo is clever! Is this an early V11 (199-2001) short frame, or a later LongFrame ? [edit: oh, wait, the Centauro frame?] What are those wheels??

Well, reducing photo size is nearly as much fun as rebuilding gearboxes😂 Heres my baby, hope image quality hasn’t suffered too much!

@PJPR01 I am flying out to Phoenix, continuing to Peoria Arizona, this coming Friday. February 2nd, 2024. I am going to check out that red Quota that has obsessed me since I started to look for a Stelvio 1200 NTX. I finally got the Peoria dealership to confirm he had the front tire in stock, but if I wanted the rear tire too, I had to pay in advance. The reason was, they don't sell much of this size, so if they were to stock the tire, they would probably not have any opportunity to sell it. I negotiated a restocking fee, since I have not yet purchased the motorcycle until I check it out. The seller is confident that it is good to go. So, I will have a pair of brand new Dunlop Trailmax Mission to journey back to H'town, if it comes to that.

I'd say that your suggestions are probably correct.

Pete Roper made some comments about gearbox backlash here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/25672-light-rattle-in-gearbox-when-pushing-my-bike/?do=findComment&comment=278017

Rode to work again today, all is still well. Whatever it was, it's gone.

Hi Mick, no, 15mV tolerance is not sufficient. The total spread between the first breakpoints is ~20mV. Assuming you are off +15mV from 157mV would put the TPS well within the range of the next breakpoint; target missed. Even +/-10mV is stretching it thinly, +/-5mV is the highest tolerance I would go for. Cheers Meinolf

A big welcome, @WildRover1916! Yours is the kind of inspirational story that deserves its own thread, IMO . . . (If your up for it, I'll start it with these posts. You can ask me to edit the title to your liking later.)

I did the Lucky Phil Shift Improvement, and all is well. I have no wish to perform this other spring upgrade as it's so involved. I have about 15k on my 2003, am I destined to be forced to do so? As I read through this thread, it seemed it may be so.

@Gmc28 Wouldn't you know? I rolled it into the garage Saturday morning, prepared to evaluate the mishap. Just as the forum suggested, turned the key, heard the pump prime, so I hit the ignition. Started right up, idled perfect! I drove it a bit later to Home Depot, about 8 mile round trip, no problems. Then this morning, ride to work, 25 miles one way, no problem. Sheesh. btw, I've ridden about 3k or so since replacing the filters, fluids, injectors, plugs, etc.

The European environmental legislation is slowly but surely enforcing major changes to what used to be an "ad-lib" development for motorcycle manufacturers. Previously, the engineer could start from a blank sheet of paper, and let his/her imagination take the lead. Today, everything is contingent to what the regulator let you do. Since the brands have to stay global, they design around the most stringent set of rules. Those are found in Europe for the most part. I think vintage motorcycles have good days in front of them.

No because to achieve perfect primary balance in a 75 degree V twin you would need to offset the crank pins 30 degrees which KTM don't do in their RC8R engines for example. They still run a common crank pin but use a balance shaft to nullify the primary imbalance. The 90 degree V twin is perfect primary and secondary balance with a small rocking couple that needs no balance shaft because the RC is minor. Only commonly found engines that have perfect primary, secondary and zero RC are the inline 6 and V12. Phil