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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/24/2024 in all areas

  1. Look at where the two bolts clamp the assembly to the bar and see if the clamp has been turned upside down with the mirror mount on the bottom...
    3 points
  2. The travel of the selector arm in both directions is adjusted with the eccentric adjuster, I’ve seen cases where the arm travel hits the inside of the casing which causes false neutrals,
    2 points
  3. Do let us know mate... Mine was sorted years ago as the bike was serviced by Brad Black and hasn't missed a beat since. Probably will now that I've mentioned it eh! Cheers
    1 point
  4. thanks - totally missed that - just reversed them.
    1 point
  5. I thinking this is beyond what I might do on the garage floor. I don't want to ride it, so to prevent further damage. I might be able to get to the shop in a month or so once the wife is mobile. Thanks for your help. I'll let you all know how it shakes out.
    1 point
  6. The link I posted is about reworking the gearbox selector. Phil
    1 point
  7. I can look for the other source…. But I think the other one was also German, so probably lousy shipping cost options there also.
    1 point
  8. Just buy the style you want and the adaptors (see my image). Mirrors are pretty much universal. You might need the thread size which I believe is 10mm. Left hand thread one side and right the other. Pitch is 10X1.25.
    1 point
  9. I don't believe "overshifting" has anything to do with the shift linkage docc although always worth looking at of course. More likely the stop adjuster has come loose or it has been fiddled with at some point and has been set on the edge of "overshifting" and as time and wear accumulate it ends up outside the acceptable window of operation. The answer is to remove the side plate and check the whole shift mechanism for faults and while in there replace all the springs and adjust the stop on the bench before it damages the hard to fix internal parts like the gear dogs and/or shifter sleeves.
    1 point
  10. Yes like MG cycles and most other foreign sellers you need to have a list of stuff you need and make an order to justify the shipping which has gone through the roof in the last 3 years or so.
    1 point
  11. Just make sure it has not gotten "sloppy." Check the pinch bolt on the shaft of the gear box, the lock nuts indexing the Heim/Rose joints, and wobble at the lever pivot. The lever pivot bolt may benefit from shimming (mine has a couple of times). There is an inboard lock nut that keeps that pivot bolt from turning. Look at the relative angles of the parallelogram and adjust as necessary to get as close to get the gearbox arm and the shift extension arm parallel. The lever has more apparent travel between certain gears, so check that it is not fouling anything above or the Frame Side Plate (below) in each gear change, up and down.
    1 point
  12. I mean, how many times can we kick something with so may connections up and down over time before the "kinetic chain" needs attention . . . I have seen V11 with this series of fasteners just rattled apart, simply needing a good fettling, tightening, and lubrication . . .
    1 point
  13. Yea Mick as Guzzler said rego labels no longer exist. Probably about 10 years ago they were phased out. Good thing too. EU laws, what a nightmare. My Supra has a "locked" ecu since mid 2020. Anyone that wants to tune one needs to send the ecu to a specialist and get it "unlocked" or cloned and then you can flash tune it. The other way is to use an add on tuner box a bit like a Dynojet box. Doesn't affect me either way as i'll leave it alone but people will find ways around things which I am liking more and more as the "nanny state" thing gets more draconian. Phil
    1 point
  14. I'm with Phil IMHO far too much navel gazing regarding oil level in the sump I ASS-ume it's a Broadsump, although I don't own a V11 I have 2 Broadsump bikes, a Sporti and HiCam (Daytona engine). I've got Roper plates in both and fill to just below the plate and never had any issues, that's well above the high mark on the stick. I find the dipstick a PIA I can never read it reliably, but that could be me. Volumes quoted for sump levels are as @GuzziMoto stated are based on a dry engine, which will never be the case on an oil change, so sump levels/dipstick markers are a better indicator I'm not saying "do what I do" or that it's correct, just it's perhaps not quite as critical as some folks make out
    1 point
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