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Lovely (potential) ladies and gentlemen. White smoke. The issue has been found! Long story short, I have been changing components left/right so many times now, I lost the baseline. During this process, I had an intermittend spark, which in turn was intermittend again. I got frustrated, cursed, wanted to push the bike into a canal. Decided to start over. Begin at the base I was left off with (which was with the signal wires of the pickup crossed). Put some fuel in her, had a huge backfire (remember the crossed wires?) But hey, the size of the backfire was new. Switched the wires back and BOOM. Started up "like a dream" But why? And then there was it. I had already abused one lithium battery to failure. In the process of getting the fueling so that she would start quick, I jumpered the battery of my V11 onto her. I only used the engine ground (and not the central ground point cable I also engineered into it) and she ran fine (before the head gaskets). The only thing that changed between the last no-run-with-fuel and yesterday's baseline attempt, was I added a central ground wire. I never looked into that because she ran fine without it earlier. Started the bike, removed the ground cable and she died. Repeated 4 times without failure. So yeah, the luck of the bike running without that main ground, turned into a big search later. The real story? I sold my Caponord 1000 two months ago to a friend. Yesterday I received my Aprilia Tuareg 660 AND found out the above. Moral of the story? I just needed a new bike Thanks everyone for thinking along!

Time to part ways with this fantastic motorcycle. I'm just too into the ADV scene and want another lightweight DS option in the garage. Here's the rundown: #603 with just over 24k miles on the clock. I believe I'm the third owner. Purchased from an L.A. area owner in 2014 w/ the following: - Receipts from Moto Guzzi Classics, and Motoservizio in Signal Hill, CA as well as Evoluzione CycleSports in Simi Valley. - High compression pistons w/ related gaskets, Stucchi crossover, Mistral Ti cans, fuel pressure modifier kit (fuel injected Ducati p/n 90200_00), PC III. - Carbon rear fender, black color matched tail section, CRG mirrors. I've done the following: - Roper plate, Scud spring, Lucky Phil shift link extender, adjusted the shift mechanism and it's glorious. Shifts are precise now and buttery smooth. Many thanks to the forum. - Ghezzi-Brian CF belly pan, re-upholstered rear seat and seat pad. Black head guards. Plugs and wires immediately after purchase. - Lightened the Ohlins fork springs from 1.05 to .95, Rizoma clutch and brake reservoirs, GRG levers, new grips, Li-ion battery w/ tender. - Sorted what I felt was a "thin" clutch throw / engagement with some thorough clutch bleeding and the issue has been rectified. Nice "long", controllable engagement range. No leaks, no peeling motor paint. Some chipping on the porkchops, but no scratches of scuffs on the body work. Sticker on the tank is covering the area where the Nanny State sticker were and the area below the OEM decals is visually different than the rest of the tank. Veglia tach needle is a little faded and dances a bit on throttle blips and shifts, but doesn't swing wildly. Fires easily, runs very well, no leaks, and always puts a smile on my face when I ride it. All shop work performed on this bike by EDR Performance in Beaverton, OR. Clutch and brake fluid flush along with fork service and new fork seals completed 2/18/24. New rubber gauge dampeners added 5/19/24. Final drive was recently serviced, O&F are fresh. Diablo Corsas have <500 mi on them. I'll go back and review all my receipts to see if there's anything I've omitted. Owners and service manuals, original tool kit. Additional set of the black OEM silencers, too. Additional pics or answers to your questions. Just DM me. Would like to see her go to an enthusiast.

Is there a wiring diagram or pictures of how people have done this? I think it's simple but sometimes the details are what matters.

Dismantle the starter and look inside. I am 99% sure you will see one or more loose magnets. I had the EXACT same symptoms. Replaced the battery, no change. Until I disassembled the starter itself and found one magnet laying loose. Roadside assistance helped me hook up a van battery (like a huge car battery), and the dead short in my starter pulled the van battery down to 7v!! After a few taps on the starter (which most likely relocated the magnet) she started up like nothing ever happened.

Interesting development for the Marquez brothers. This does seem to strengthen their tie to Ducati. https://www.crash.net/motogp/news/1045629/1/marc-marquez-given-audi-worth-six-figures-he-pens-new-sponsorship-deal

You know that when I started working in the oilfield business, oil was purged directly into the sea , flaring the gas was the usual way of getting rid of it since back in these days, there was no option to transport it. In today's world, burning anything is costly, as you need to request a permit with a reason for needing it. You need to estimate how much of hydrocarbons you will dispose off, and you get authorization, or not, and you have an inspector checking that you only dispose off that amount, and no more. Also, I worked for a gas company which used underground to store gas. Which was a very convenient way to stock as the wells had been drilled by another operator, and they found nothing but the geology was ideal for storage. You had two types of wells: injectors and producers. The producers would always sand-up, so from time to time, you had to clean them up. Since those wells were in a very sensitive area, no flaring was authorized, so we simply released the gas into the atmosphere. By today's rules, this would be a serious offense and be all over the news. That gas company never piped any word of that. I wonder how they do it today.....

Ahem...do you always take the short route home on the motorbike or sometimes the leisurely, meandering longer route? Which one is more enjoyable?

I never think about any of the modern aids when riding my bikes, new and old. It realy pissed me of the first time experiencing TC, WHAT. But with prosthesis AND, some times on the long stretches, CC gives my shoulders a break. Cheers Tom.

I kind of like the "Le Mans" in cursive marking.... the red gets brought out by the black parts. I think the tank's black side protection also gives a better overall visual. Anyway, beauty is in the eyes of whoever....

I dare say they all give up more or less there. The motor is "rigidly" mounted to the frame, so the motor movement (vibration) relative to the frame is probaly fairly minimal. The hose, however, has two long straight sections with a bend in the middle, and no support along the way. The vibrations caused by the motor have a significant sideways component, so the hose is going to be moving like the belly on a fat cat when it gets a trot up on the way to dinner. The hose no doubt vibrates along its length quite a lot, and that no doubt puts stress on the bends at the ends and the anchor points. Incidently, there are a lot of really good excuses for having a paunch in there...

I haven't seen Phil's solution, but what he describes is a common mod, not only for V11s. Often the purpose is simply to reduce the load on the lighting switch etc. . In the case of the V11, the function of the regulator is also involved. Leave everything as it is, EXCEPT the wire that in the original wiring supplies current to the lights is pulled off the light socket and used instead to switch an additional relay. This relay in turn supplies current direct from the battery to the lights in place of the wire you pulled off to switch the relay. Don't forget to put a fuse in somewhere along the way. As Phil already pointed out, this means that the original wiring for the lights is no longer loaded down by the drain from the lights, but rather is only switching the new relay. Given that the circuit is no longer loaded down to any great extent, the regulator sees much closer to battery voltage at the point in the lighting circuit where it is measuring, and accordingly regulates the charging current much closer to what it should ideally be. Additional advantages include that the working current for the lights is no longer going throught the light switch, which makes the switche's life a lot easier.

The problem with the direct battery solution is there is a parasitic drain now on the battery when the bike is parked which along with the parasitic drain from the ECU causes the battery to lose charge fairly rapidly. The OEM design eliminates this because when the ignition key is turned off the reg is isolated due to it voltage sensing being from the light wiring circuit. The problem with the OEM arrangement is that the light circuit wiring is marginal in it's ability to carry the current without the voltage sagging when the lights are on and because the reg senses essentially battery voltage from the lighting circuit it reads the "sagged" voltage when you have the lights on. This then overcharges the battery. Instead of the reg reading actual battery voltage it reads battery voltage minus 1 volt usually. The solution is what I did years ago and is to run a separate supply for the headlights and fit mini relays in the headlight shell. This cures the voltage sag with the headlights on, eliminates the high current that the headlight switch normally has to carry and keeps the reg wired as per OEM which isolates it with the ignition switch off and avoids the parasitic drain when parked. Phil

My neighbor across the street has a similar set up with his M240 BMW. it's got that 8 speed auto that's super quick. As a stick shift guy, I have to admit it's a slick set up. it doesn't have the wild ride like my 'vette, its controlled and gets the power to pavement. Lot's of cool do dads and huuuuge dash screens

Here at last. Three litre inline 6 turbo and six speed manual. Basically a BMW Z4 with Toyota hardtop body. Two seats only and low.

2022 would make for a pretty rare Scura! (Lucky_Phil for the save . . .)