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I've heard many opinions on advertising over the years but "concise" has never been one of them. Phil

Those links from @MartyNZ are good. I think they are the same ones that helped me some time last year when I had a prophylactic look inside my starter. The only thing that is not quite obvious is getting the actual motor apart. If it has never been apart, there are two rivets in there holding things together. A close look reveals that they seem to be redundant, because there are also two screws holding things together. That impression is correct. Drill them out and forget they were ever there. The other thing to pay attention to in the guides before you start is the spring clip in this photo (from the article on advridder.com that Marty posted) that holds the brushes in. If I remember rightly, it looks like it should "just come out", but doesn't. Have a good look at it, and undo everything before you try to get it out. And practice getting the brushes out on the negative contact first. I broke out a tiny bit of plastic from the housing on the first attempt. On the negative side, that wasn't an issue, as the negative is in contact with the frame and housing and everything anyway. On the positive contact, that same little piece of missing plastic would have had me concerned about potential short circuits.

Interesting discussion here. Apparently to doesn't actually make a difference? btw Searching for diagram and @Kiwi_Roy is like typing "p0rn" into Google. You'll get a trillion results.

It is possible they were each one asked about which car they would rather have. I am not a big fan of DKW Auto-Union evolution. To me, Ferdinand is the only one that got it right, even if I loved my NSU Prinz C. Anyhow, having an exotic car that can't be put through its paces is kind of let down. It is not even the speed limits, it is simply the amount of cars competing for space on the same roads. Here in Houston, no matter the time of the day, you are in traffic jams all the time!

Should you indeed discover loose magnets, the casings are available as a spare part. These three were among the first 6 or 8 hits for a search for "valeo starter motor housing". I'm sure you could find a supplier in the US. https://www.motoren-israel.com/Shop/Engine-electrics/Starter-motor/Magnet-housing-for-Valeo-starter-4V-Boxer::148.html?language=en https://www.bayermotor.de/en/product?info=6285&country_preselect_country=AU https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/d6ra-magccw.htm Valeo revised the starters at some point, and added clips in addition to the glue to hold the magnets in place. If yours has clips on or between the magnets, it is the newer version and wont have the problem with loose magnets. If there are no clips in there, the problem with loose magnets may well rear its ugly head, even if that is indeed not your current problem. When you have the thing apart, it may well be worth considering upgrading the housing to the newer version with the clips, if it isn't already a new one. EDIT: for what it is worth, the starter in my 2002 Le Mans has the clips in it. On the other hand, the bike has more than 65,000 km on the clock, and the starter looked brand new inside when I opened it. Maybe it has been replaced at some point.

Thanks @audiomick! Most useful. I am waiting to get my Quota back before I embark in this task. I do not have a bench, nor a vice, each time I start to work on my bike I have to remove my car, not ideal conditions.

An addendum to the previous post: It occurred to me that I also pondered about the solenoid a bit. The first part of its action is to mechanically slide the drive gear forwards to engage it with the flywheel. The second part, at the end of its stroke, is to close the contact to provide electricity to activate the motor itself. I remember wondering it that was just a contact, or a switch. It is a switch. If I remember rightly, it requires a little effort to close it. Where to push is obvious when the solenoid is apart. There is a black button at the bottom end of the housing that the solenoid moves in that closes the switch. Function can be easily verified with an Ohm meter between the relevant screw contacts on the back end.

UPDATE: My forks are currently being worked on by Andreani. They have called a few times, just to update me on their findings. My forks are true, easily within spec limits. Bearings are slightly marred, but of no concern. He would possibly swap the bushings, but cannot find a parts source, even internationally. He wants to have this option for future orders, so he will continue to source these until successful. Their current cartridge kit has now been confirmed to fit for these forks/model years. Thus Andreani will be increasing their application fitment part numbers. They are appreciative of having this confirmation. At this point, anyone anxious, can call and order your kit now, or wait until they update their website, and order directly online. My forks will be completed today, so combined with shipping from NC to CA, I suspect I'll have these installed in the next 2-3 weeks. After my test ride, I'll report back!

99.99999% of all sensors are polarity sensitive . Trust me . You will get frustrated learning this but you will be a better man knowing this . We found out things like this when HEI came out on GM vehicles in 1975 . You would install a distributor pick-up coil in the distributor of a Chevrolet w/a part # from an Olds or vice versa and get similar results. WHY ? The Chevy dist. rotation was clockwise and the Olds was CCW. Also wheel speed sensors , crank sensors , all kinds of sensors are polarity sensitive . I watch DiagnoseDan videos and he encountered something like this with a sensor (cheap part) wired backward at the connector . I love the education , I HATE the @$&%%&*&%$!@)(&%$ tuition !

Lovely (potential) ladies and gentlemen. White smoke. The issue has been found! Long story short, I have been changing components left/right so many times now, I lost the baseline. During this process, I had an intermittend spark, which in turn was intermittend again. I got frustrated, cursed, wanted to push the bike into a canal. Decided to start over. Begin at the base I was left off with (which was with the signal wires of the pickup crossed). Put some fuel in her, had a huge backfire (remember the crossed wires?) But hey, the size of the backfire was new. Switched the wires back and BOOM. Started up "like a dream" But why? And then there was it. I had already abused one lithium battery to failure. In the process of getting the fueling so that she would start quick, I jumpered the battery of my V11 onto her. I only used the engine ground (and not the central ground point cable I also engineered into it) and she ran fine (before the head gaskets). The only thing that changed between the last no-run-with-fuel and yesterday's baseline attempt, was I added a central ground wire. I never looked into that because she ran fine without it earlier. Started the bike, removed the ground cable and she died. Repeated 4 times without failure. So yeah, the luck of the bike running without that main ground, turned into a big search later. The real story? I sold my Caponord 1000 two months ago to a friend. Yesterday I received my Aprilia Tuareg 660 AND found out the above. Moral of the story? I just needed a new bike Thanks everyone for thinking along!

You know that when I started working in the oilfield business, oil was purged directly into the sea , flaring the gas was the usual way of getting rid of it since back in these days, there was no option to transport it. In today's world, burning anything is costly, as you need to request a permit with a reason for needing it. You need to estimate how much of hydrocarbons you will dispose off, and you get authorization, or not, and you have an inspector checking that you only dispose off that amount, and no more. Also, I worked for a gas company which used underground to store gas. Which was a very convenient way to stock as the wells had been drilled by another operator, and they found nothing but the geology was ideal for storage. You had two types of wells: injectors and producers. The producers would always sand-up, so from time to time, you had to clean them up. Since those wells were in a very sensitive area, no flaring was authorized, so we simply released the gas into the atmosphere. By today's rules, this would be a serious offense and be all over the news. That gas company never piped any word of that. I wonder how they do it today.....

Usually the latter Mick. I once bought a Ducati ST2 off a friend as a "favour" to him. He needed the cash. It was out of rego, been dropped on the right side and the Termi can carbon cover was held on with cable ties, the rear disk was undersize and required replacement to get through rego, the LCD fuel gauge was broken and didn't work, the front wheel bearings were shot, the r/h fairing was cracked from the drop and he hadn't washed it in 18 months. He wanted $7200 for it when they were asking $7400 for a low mileage mint one, so probably get it for $7000. I offered him $6000 and I'd take care of the rego inspection and repairs and he didn't have the hassle of advertising it. It ended up costing me an extra $1800 to repair plus rego. So $8400 all up and lots of work to own a well used and unloved ST2 as a favour to a friend when I could have had a mint one for $7000 maybe $7200 tops and zero work. Outcome. I now owned a bike I never particularly wanted to own and he thought I'd taken financial advantage of him and he never spoke to me again. People, go figure. Phil