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This is the second time I ran into @activpop at the Portland Cars and Coffee. Last time he was on I believe his Stelvio? Anyways this time he brought a proper Guzzi. I had the kiddo with me so no riding. We had one of those sneaky warm days (high was about 75F later in the day) in the early Spring. They are always welcome. The bike looks and sounds fantastic. The Titaniums are definitely not as loud as Mistrals but not everyone has to be a hooligan. One of these days I'll unbury the V11 and bring it out too.

The sticking gasket from the old filter is real and should be check each and every filter change. "Hand Tight" may have applied to external automotive filters, but is a formula for disaster on a V11 . . .

Ditto. Maybe we could put our spousal units up at Tapoco Lodge for the weekend? My Kathi always emotes about the river and view there, leaving us to consider the charms of the Cubanos. OTOH ... erm ... probably not. Bill

These arrived a few days ago from Joe. The latest timing gears and oil pump. The pump now uses a bronze bushing for the main drive gear to minimise oil loss through the needle bearing type. I had Joe make my Jackshaft gear 16mm wide as opposed to the alloy gears 18mm width. I don't see a reason for a wider gear if it's now steel instead of aluminium. Pumps L to R....Joes pump, a std Daytona pump and another brand aftermarket pump. The Jackshaft is an MGS-01 shaft. The MGS got rid of the long jackshaft with the additional plain bearing at the flywheel end of the crankcases. That was a carry over from the 2 valve engine which needed the rear bearing as in that engine it was a camshaft and needed the rear support. The MGS shaft is supported by a ball bearing instead of the plain bearing at the front of the crankcase for less friction but it means the oil supply to the heads and oil pressure switch is now blocked so those are fed from the oil cooler connection. I'm seriously toying with the idea of just chopping the rear bearing and shaft off the jackshaft and running just the front plain bearing. I can't see why this wouldn't work and so preserve the integral oil feed to the heads and oil pressure switch. A bit more friction is all I can see as the result. Details from Joe Oil Pump gears are Helical Case Hardened and polished and should give a Hardness around 55-60 R The Bronze bushes have a 1mm shoulder like a top hat to prevent the bush moving towards the crankcase. The large 56 teeth Steel belt pulley large gear is 16mm in gear width compared to the original of 18mm. All the gears are made from en36 or 655m13 which is an upgrade from before as I was trying out this new supplier and so these are shiny and not the usual black Tuftride finish. These are Case Hardened gears which are then polished and so have a harder surface wear finish . The black gears are classed as through hardened in the heat treatment and so not suitable for the polishing process. The case hardened gears have an increase of around 10 Rockwell over the Tuftride gears and so I think they might sound different too.

its been warm enough to go for a few rides with my transformed guzzi... 50s during the day here ... salt is pretty much washed off the roads, though road crews havent fixed the pot holes yet ... stock airbox makes the v11 sounds better, even great, it sounds better ... i don't notice a power difference at all - seems like a totally appropriate and good refit .... rizoma mirrors are awesome (thanks again @Lucky Phil) no wobble, nice coatings, and as you said i have totally forgotten how much they cost and only notice the quality ... maybe my next initiative will be to remap to gain better MPG if possible. Oil change is complete (purchased the oil filter wrech suggested by @gstallons) Bike is running great. just need some better cold weather pants and a baklava for these early spring days.

I can't imagine Valeo or any other manufacturer NOT using an adhesive to bond the magnets to the case . Now , don't leave out the starter solenoid as a maintenance item . The contacts and the disc on the plunger wear as much as or more than the brushes/commutator . And DO not forget , never hammer on a permanent magnet starter until you are ready to throw it away !

Yes it does. It was impeccably cared for. Jay Leno couldn't have done better.

Thanks to all for the expert guidance . After hours of cleaning this (sorry -- don't know why it is 90 degrees CW): the law of diminishing returns kicked in and I put it back together. Definitely used a few muscles I ordinarily don't getting hoses reattached. Running, but figure I'll do a valve check, new gaskets, and an oil change before taking it for a test. Meanwhile, as I was fiddling with the hose from the bottom side of the fuel tank (that's a PITA) -- specifically, running it down to a spot behind the exhaust crossover -- I realized that I don't have the exhaust hanger, the one called a U-bolt, GU01123830. Can't imagine how I lost that, but will definitely use lock nuts next time (though I believe I did when I worked on the back end a couple years ago) . Trouble shooting the WR450F no start this afternoon, with fellows and . Happy Saint Patrick's Day!

The relationships between Volkswagen and Porsche are incestuous enough that a Porsche would no doubt be as easily possible as an Audi. What brand they actually get offered has probably as much to do with what the Volkswagen concern wants to advertise as anything else.

GASKET REMINDER! Just pulled my HiFlo Filtro out and the rubber gasket remained in the engine. I noticed that as I tipped the filter over to empty it. The gasket came right off of the filter boss, but I seem to remember someone having oil light issues related to threading a new filter and gasket over the old stuck gasket. Best to check the bike's prostate and do the finger wave around the filter gasket boss.

Can't help myself, do I spot something what we call an electro thief ? Don't like greeniesh copper wires Cheers Tom.

That is the point, I think. My GTR 1000 has a pump-up pre-load adjustment. Easy enough to get to behind the right-hand sidecover. If one has one of those little pumps to hand that are used for such purposes, also easy to adjust. I barely ride the bike, now, but in the past I regularly changed the pre-load. The bike was used to travel to jobs several hundred kilometres away, often via the Autobahn, with fully loaded luggage. On other occasions, a friend of ours was regularly on the back seat for trips of several hours. When I was on my own for a short ride in the country, there was generally practically nothing in the luggage. I now don't do the long trips anymore, as my work situation has changed, and the friend has back problems, so she isn't up for motorcycling so much. If at all, it will likely be the Breva 750 now. She wont get on the V11 again after trying it out once. The GTR will be moving along to a new owner in the forseable future, because without the long trips I don't really have an excuse for owning it. Anyway, in the light of past experience I can easily see the point of a remote pre-load adjuster. If the adjustment is easy to get to, there are circumstances under which one uses it, and it helps. @orangem2 why not just ask the workshop you are intending to send the shock to if there is a remote adjuster available? If there isn't, I gather Wilbers have something available. Quite expensive, but I have only heard good things about them. This would be the shock, I think https://www.wilbers.de/shop/Motorrad/Moto-Guzzi/V11-Ballabio-KT/Federbein-Typ-641-Competition.html?year=2004 that is without the optional hydraulic pre-load adjuster. To see the price with that, select "hydraulisch (Wilbers-PA)" from the drop-down under "Federvorspannung". The optional adjuster is this one, I think https://www.wilbers.de/produkte/federbeinprodukte/optionen-zubehoer/hyd-federvorspannung/hydraulische-federvorspannung-typ-625.html On the other hand, Öhlins is pretty chic....

No, no pressure feed to the jackshaft rolling element bearings and yes no thermostat to the oil cooler because the MGS engine was never made for road use. Same as it also went back to the smaller and slower driven V11 oil pump. Last thing this engine needs is an oil pump that delivers less oil at low rpm around town. Phil

I don't want to miss #XX. I've confirmed room #CCI Riding buddy Guglielmo has yet to confirm.

Phil you answered one question for me. I always wondered how the MGS-01 lubed the jackshaft with ball bearings. I heard if used more than 13 psi oil pressure you could cause the ball bearings to skid. Guzzi took it right out of the circuit, problem move to oil cooler with no thermostat. Going through your photo album, oh my but you covered a lot of ground over the years. Phil you certainly persevered to the benefit of us all.

I think it is a fine thread for a very good reason. Confirmation, for instance, here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Coarse_versus_fine or here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread#Preferred_sizes

https://www.ducati.com/ww/en/news/ducati-corse-and-audi-sport-partners-in-the-motogp-world-championship

Hi, I pull the pan on my V11 Lemans when replacing the filter. The original owner put a hose clamp on the filter to keep it from working itself loose so I kept up with the technique. With the hose clamp the filter can't be removed through the filter port in the pan. Plus, I think he may have boogered up the filter cover threads or pan threads...I've not attempted to remove round port cover. I also use a hose clamp on the filter of my LMIV & Eldo. My experience has been that the rubber oil filter base gasket looses tension between filter changes. The hose clamp keeps the filter from rotating loose as the base gasket tension diminishes. As long as the filter doesn't rotate theres a good chance oil pressure won't diminish to critical low levels. My personal experiences with my older MG's has been that the filter is nowhere near as tight when I go to remove it as it was when I installed it. However, since I replace the filter every 2nd oil change maybe the base gaskets have improved over the years and it will be different once I exhaust my current filter inventory. IDK. Art

looks like it coming out of the showroom....

@Scud it’s original, as far as I know.

Indiana has annual registration. It goes by first letter of last name. I'm a "B" and everything comes due on Mar 6. All plates and reg's for all 7 of mine. If I buy mid year it's pro rated.

Should you indeed discover loose magnets, the casings are available as a spare part. These three were among the first 6 or 8 hits for a search for "valeo starter motor housing". I'm sure you could find a supplier in the US. https://www.motoren-israel.com/Shop/Engine-electrics/Starter-motor/Magnet-housing-for-Valeo-starter-4V-Boxer::148.html?language=en https://www.bayermotor.de/en/product?info=6285&country_preselect_country=AU https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/d6ra-magccw.htm Valeo revised the starters at some point, and added clips in addition to the glue to hold the magnets in place. If yours has clips on or between the magnets, it is the newer version and wont have the problem with loose magnets. If there are no clips in there, the problem with loose magnets may well rear its ugly head, even if that is indeed not your current problem. When you have the thing apart, it may well be worth considering upgrading the housing to the newer version with the clips, if it isn't already a new one. EDIT: for what it is worth, the starter in my 2002 Le Mans has the clips in it. On the other hand, the bike has more than 65,000 km on the clock, and the starter looked brand new inside when I opened it. Maybe it has been replaced at some point.

To take that a step further, the box section spine frame serves as a separator with the liquid fraction draining through the spine into the braided line that rejoins the oil sump at the back while the vapor fraction enters the airbox to be combusted. Or just gunk up the airbox . . .

Rats! I'm bringing my wife, so ....🤫

Haha! Yep:

Aren't those the same girls who weren't there last year?

Truth be known, I am holding a room for our Chief Whip in the event he can be our honored guest at this SSR XX. At some point in the SSR past, another member promised "a handful of Cubanos ." I suppose they could stay in the room and when the innkeeper inquires about the potential improprieties, we can say, "The Dutchman flew! and the Cubanos are nowhere to be found !" Okay, okay - the actual Cubanos:

Just got word of four rooms left at The Lodge . . .

Which is cheaper , an oil change or an engine rebuild ? We were w/o electricity for about 30 days one winter , I changed the oil daily on a 8500w generator. This was a small gas powered generator and I was taking NO chances . I have never seen an engine failure from frequent oil changes . On that bike , I would do oil changes every 2500 and oil/filter changes at 5k. You better get accustomed to how tight to get a filter. I have a great oil filter wrench from SnapOn and I will get the part # . OK ,it is a SnapOn OFCA 1 or OFCA 2. The only way to go !

Should have made reservation before now, just made the request...dangit hope there's still space

Reserved a room at the Tellico Plains Lodge and TWO parking spots in the garage. Putting out positive vibes that it all comes together. XX Spine Raid, " YES " SKIP

If you're talking about the oil filter access on the sump, it's a 27mm hex. For the oil filter access: If you could find a 27mm wrench, you'd buy it and find that it's way too large to carry around on the bike. There are several alternatives. 1) Take a 27mm nut and have it welded to a steel handle. 2) Find that a sparkplug wrench for a bike just happens to have an outside hex dimension that fits adequately. (I did and it fits in my tool pouch as well) 3) Buy the Volkswagon tool for about $18 dollars. I don't know what this tool is specifically or for which model, but it does exist. 4) Just drop the whole pan and don't worry about the tool. Should the filter be in really tight or the filter wrench slips, then this will be the only approach anyway. If you have a dedicated tool, this can actually be faster (see below). You do not need to replace the gasket for this option either. For the oil filter wrench: There are several oil filters that fit these bikes. The original UFI filter has a different number of flutes on the case than some of the others (Fram for instance). There is a good metal wrench available (Vector 17030) for the UFI filters while for the Fram filters there is a plastic one. The plastic wrenches tend to just expand and slip on a tight filter. When that happens, it's easier to remove the sump. At that point, nearly anything that will get the filter off becomes the qualified tool. Strap wrenches, clamping filter removers, a screwdriver punched through the filter. You get my drift. For the sump: Get an extra allen wrench that fits the sump screws, lop it off with a Dremel cutting wheel. Dedicate an extra drive socket for it and store it as a unit. Makes removing the sump becomes a very easy task. Read about filters at http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/ufi.shtml