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For all of you cynics the fact is that the Tonti models are very good motorbikes. Not as good as the Aprilia/Piaggio models that superseded them but back in the day, the day being the mid 1970's, but there was a lot of charm in that era. The early 'Short Head' Tonti models were pretty impressive. Sadly, in the mid eighties the 'Market' changed. People, (And I'm mainly talking about you USA!) wanted 'Bigger' motorbikes. Not just capacity but also, more importantly, physical size! Anyone who has ridden an un-f*cked Mk III LeMans back to back with a 'Big Valve', 'Tall Head' Mk IV, V or 1000S would have to be mentally defective to think that the earlier model was inferior to the latter one! That doesn't though mean that the later models, 'Sport' or 'Cruiser' are shit! They are fine, competent motorbikes and the Cali 1100, even with Bill's chunder inducing 'Hot Dog and Mustard' paint job are actually great touring motorbikes! In the unlikely event I ever go back to the US for another tour, (I'd love to, but 'Reasons'.) the fact is with Cali prices being so low I'd be terribly tempted to take a punt on something like this $2.5K shitter, use it for my trip and just abandon it at the airport when I left leaving the title and keys stuffed in the tank and ignition. Or donate it to some charitable agency. It would be much cheaper than hiring or buying a more *Modern* bike. Cheap, pretty bulletproof bike, that you can ride trans-continental for next to nothing! Really, what's not to like!

Philistines. 108K miles and still a joy. Bill

I knew that bike looked familiar. I remember when you got it. Sadly, I haven't seen this baby on the street, being in Tucson. But soon, I'll be representing the V11s in Southern Arizona getting my Scura back on the road. Man, something about these bikes. That "chug." Been riding my CB1100 and my Valkyrie lately. Total opposites of a V11. But the Scura now lives again. I'll be sure to post up the first ride out of hiatus.

I'm not sure about all of that. I was just asking how much.

Ha ha, wonder what a greenie with 102.000 kays on her might be worth these days....? Probably bugger all, but priceless to me all the same! Cheers

I think that was directed at me.

I own some exclusive guitars, based on the number produced, but also because at one point in my aspiring guitar player path, I thought that it would be better for me to get guitar built around my own aspirations. I think today's guitar market is oversaturated with the so-called "Boutique" and self-declared Luthiers. The prices have gone insane with little justification. I am wondering when the market is going to collapse. Yesterday's guitars priced around the 500 USD are today's at 1500 USD. The very well known brands are selling guitars well above the 10,000 USD. I am a big fan of Gregor Hilden, and I got a German luthier to make me a Gregor Hilden signature... Helliver; https://legendary-guitars.com/de/helliver-guitars-aus-muenster/ This guy makes incredible guitars at a fair pricing, and closer to you than Maton...

I question a lot of German choices. This would be one of them.

I agree probably relays... Mine has had this before I checked /cleaned them esp #1 and # 5 and blew out any dust etc from the relay base which sorted it. By the way toggling the kill switch can help but really a stop gap measure. Cheers

The starting or not starting with a matching fuel pump running or not running is classic relays. The lack of brake light, rev counter, and horn is often a blown fuse. But it could also be a relay not working. As mentioned, that may also include the front headlight being out but the running light in the headlight working. That can make you think your headlight is lit but it is not. The actual headlight and the running light are on two different circuits. The headlight circuit runs through relays so it can be cut out while the bike tries to start. And when that happens the alternator does not charge the battery as it is using the headlight circuit to measure battery voltage and if there is not voltage on the headlight circuit it does not charge the battery. Easy to check if the battery is being charged. With the relays, it can be a bad relay or it can be a bad connection to the relay. Someone already suggested cleaning the relay bases I believe. That, along with checking the connections in the bases for a tight fit and adjusting the spades if required is good advice. Another known place for electrical issues like this is in the wires to and from the ignition switch. But I would first check relays and fuses. I use a volt meter to measure the fuses after pulling them out for continuity. But you can also measure for voltage on both sides. Visually looking at them is the least reliable way to check a fuse. They can look ok and be bad.

A properly sized pipe cleaner with something like naphtha or denatured alcohol can enter the female spade connectors for cleaning. Then Caig DeoxIt is a good reassembly precaution. In short, there are too many vulnerable weak links in the starting chain. The sidestand switch, neutral light, clutch safety switch and all relevant connections in addition to fuses and relays can truly confound troubleshooting. My malfunction, which has been chased away temporarily, is key on, pumps powers up, but not even a click at the starter button. Nothing. After a bump start and the usual riding vibration, all is again good.

I think that in Germany the Cali is a type of Continental Harley - but one where you can actually drive to the factory if you need to agitate for parts.

I reckon there might be a couple of things happening there. Firstly, have you got a workshop manual? There is one here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf On page 457 there is a listing of the fuses, and two pages later a wiring diagram. But have a good look at it yourself. The document is a compilation of several versions of the workshop manual, and you should make sure you are looking at the section that refers to your bike. Anyway.... The "click, click, click, start" is well known. Mine does that. Starts mostly, but often enough the first couple of presses on the button just produce a click. I cleaned up the electrics a bit, and it got better, but it is still there. The basic problem there is that too many volts are getting lost between the battery and the starter solenoid. There doesn't need to be anything specifically broken. It can be just a cumulation of slightly dodgy connections. The other one, no fuel pump prime and nothing, sounds like a different problem to me. Hard to say what it is, maybe "just" an intermittent connection somewhere, maybe something really broken. So... have a good look at the circuit diagram, so you have an idea how it all works. The relays are really important. Most of the important things, crucial to the bike running, involve a relay somehow. Then... go through and check and clean all of the electrical connections. Ok, that is a fair swag of things to look at. Start with the strap between the negative battery terminal and the back of the gearbox. That is your main "earth" connection. As far as the fuses go, dont just check the fuses. The fuse holders (and the relay sockets) are a plastic block that accepts a female spade connector with a barb on it to hold it in place. These connectors are the socket that the fuse or relay sits in. One can get the connectors out by going in from the fuse / relay side with a very small flat bladed screwdriver to depress the barb, and pulling the connector out to the rear side. Electrical contact cleaner might be enough to clean things up without actually pulling the connectors out. To sum it up: have a good look at as much of the electrical system as you can. As I already wrote, it sounds to me like you might have a couple of things happening there, not just one.

Yes. That is the "growth" that the economists are always raving on about.

Yes, Tommy Emmanuel is their principle sponsored Artist, I would say. https://maton.com.au/artists/tommy-emmanuel As far as electric guitars go, I believe the company made electric guitars right from the beginning. Apparently George Harrison played one once, but only as a replacement guitar for one, maybe two shows. Whatever, the acoustics are much more well known. The last time I looked at their site, there were a number of electric guitars available. At the moment I can't find any, although there is a link there to electric guitars. Don't know what is going on there. Doesn't really matter to me actually. Buying a Maton is definitely exclusively on the "when I win the Lottery" list. I'd love to have one, but....

Funny you blokes should write that... I started riding motorcycles in about 1984. My impression of Guzzi (in Melbourne at the time...) was red, eccentric, and sporty. I.e. Le Mans. The first time I saw a California (or was it a Nevada or a Florida? Chopper style, whatever...) I thought "why on earth does a company that builds such beautiful sport bikes even bother to build something like that?". Then I came to Germany, got a bike, got a Guzzi (the first one was a V35 Imola. No power, but red, sporty looking and beautiful...) and started spending time on a German Guzzi forum. It turns out, in Europe (or at least in Germany, but I'm convinced it is not restricted to Germany...), the Tonti California is considered to be "the" iconic and defining Guzzi. The beautiful, sleek, sporty things are just a niche product. Weird, really, because they all know about the V8 race bike, and the the first Tonti frame was the V7 Sport (sleek, sporty, beautiful...) and so on. But the California seems to be considered to be the "mainstream" Guzzi model. I still can't quite come to grips with the idea.

Wait... are you implying that the press is not totally objective, fair, impartial, and free of outside financial influences?

Although they now have a visible way to identify when they are blown, it is always good to use an ohmmeter to be certain. If you do not have a multimeter, then swapping is a good way too.

Mate # 1 ( Start ) is closest to the tank # 5 ( Fuel ) furthest from it. Cheers Ps these two NEED to be 5 pin relays but most of us put 5 pin ones in all spots!

That could be classic relay issues. A lack of the fuel pump running when you turn it on can be a relay issue (assuming it is not a problem with the fuel pump). The fuel pump should always cycle when you turn it on. If it doesn't, something is probably wrong. The relay issue can be the relays themselves or the connections at the base of the relays. If the fuel pump runs but it doesn't start when you push the starter button a common set of issues there is either the side stand switch or the neutral switch that turns the neutral light on. There is an interlock between the side stand and the neutral switch. I would check your fuses, and your relays. Also, confirm the headlight is on and not just the running light in the headlight bucket. If the headlight isn't on the alternator probably isn't charging the battery. Others will add more no doubt.

I recently had this issue myself. I used the horn and lost the lights, including the low oil pressure warning. The 15 amps fuse in position 5 from the left had been somewhat swapped with the one in position 6. Adding the horn to the rest was too much for the 5 Amps fuse.

Accordion was big in France as the main instrument. We used to have some big names associated with it. Interestingly, most accordions were made in Italy, where all the good things come from... Cavagnolo, Fratelli Crosio... I just found that the tradition is perpetuated, still.... lots of Accordion based "Bal-musette" as they were known, and going strong with young people learning the craft. Notice she plays a Cavagnolo... who knows, she may have a Moto Guzzi too!

157 mV measured across the TPS with the throttle completely closed... Yeah, I know, that doesn't help much. If you are only just starting in on working on the bike yourself, I would suggest looking at these three threads first. I only bought my 2002 V11 Le Mans about 18 months ago, and found them very helpful in quickly getting to a point where I can start to do sensible work on the bike (which needed it, and still needs a bit more...). read that one first, then look at these A tip for getting the tank off: your 2003 V11 should have the "click-on" connectors for the fuel lines. Be careful there: the plastic elbow coming out of the tank is fragile, and about as easy to find as hen's teeth. What helps a lot: pull the plug on the fuel pump, start the bike and let it run until the motor dies. This relieves the pressure in the fuel line, and makes it possible to disconnect as easy as it is possible to get it. To disconnect, push the connector firmly towards the tank, pull the ring back and pull the connector off. PS: mine coughs too. Pretty much as you describe yours. Going through the "decent tune up" helped quite a lot. Further research remains to be done...

https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/spark-plug-resistor-cover.p2014488.prd/2014488.sku